Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 57 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Range hoods are a scam. Some exhaust outside while other recirc through a filter that's never been cleaned. None of the three houses I've owned had one (30+ years) and we never had a problem. AND my wife is a clean freak. There's no build up behind or above the stove. Honestly what does cooking emit other than steam and some aroma.

The poster wanting tile behind the bar I say go for it. I'm no pro and everyone thinks our tile is fine. Tile is a pretty straight forward task.
Recirc is useless. Lots of grease/oil floats around from cooking. Wipe off a kitchen light fixture sometime and it is normally coated. You can't see it until you touch it as it is evenly distributed. Now most range hoods are also useless. You want air to flow over the stove and up the hood. Most don't flow enough air (especially at a reasonable sound level) and probably 1 in 1000 (or less) has appropriate makeup air flowing in at the correct location to have the proper stream of air.
 
Range hoods are a scam. Some exhaust outside while other recirc through a filter that's never been cleaned. None of the three houses I've owned had one (30+ years) and we never had a problem. AND my wife is a clean freak. There's no build up behind or above the stove. Honestly what does cooking emit other than steam and some aroma.

To the poster wanting tile behind the bar I say go for it. I'm no pro and everyone thinks our tile is fine. Tile is a pretty straight forward task.

Our stove vent goes straight outside through about a foot of duct. To make it more efficient I made set in panels that store alongside the stove and create wings that improve the fan efficiency by at least double. If it's oily frying it's worth a minute to put them in place. Oil spray from my bacon jam gets around.
 
Coil stove! Oh the horrors. Kids these days would lose their crap at that. Nevermind that the damn thing works with very few issues for decades. I prefer coils to flat top for so many reasons (unless you want to spring for induction, then I am ok with flattop).

Our coil top is 35 YO and just needed a new switch, about $50 IIRC. If someone was junking a working one I would scavenge the parts and never buy another stove.

I know someone with a high end import and if a switch goes it means a replacement panel at $800.

I had an induction hotplate and liked the response but the control failed in maximum heat and at $80 replacement it wasn't worth fixing. I did a bit of research on the full sized stuff and there were power limitations IIRC. You couldn't fire up all the burners at full heat at the same time. The life expectancy was listed as well. It wouldn't last long for an old country lifestyle where granny's always cooking something.
 
These work good over the frying pan:

View attachment 46974
I think Dollarama has them too and for less. We had one but my wife didn't like cleaning it. She didn't like the grease build up on the exhaust fan either. Then I cleaned the exhaust fan screen with left over Harley Davidson cleaner and she was impressed. Who knows more about cleaning grease spots than HD? It's actually their brand of the common spot spray stuff like Spray 9 etc.

A professional cleaner told me to be careful as it even etches glass over time.
 
Our coil top is 35 YO and just needed a new switch, about $50 IIRC. If someone was junking a working one I would scavenge the parts and never buy another stove.

I know someone with a high end import and if a switch goes it means a replacement panel at $800.

I had an induction hotplate and liked the response but the control failed in maximum heat and at $80 replacement it wasn't worth fixing. I did a bit of research on the full sized stuff and there were power limitations IIRC. You couldn't fire up all the burners at full heat at the same time. The life expectancy was listed as well. It wouldn't last long for an old country lifestyle where granny's always cooking something.
I've had all of them, except for gas, which I'd like. The old style glass-top was a pain to keep clean. When something spilled, it burned on really badly. We still have one at the cottage, but 1-1/2 of the burners are shot, and it would cost less to buy a new coil stove.

The Induction stays much cleaner; the spilled stuff doesn't get cooked on nearly as hard. Yes, there are some issues with power and not being able to use all burners at full, but that has not been an issue. Usually you need a burner at full for a minute or two to get the pot up to temperature, and then turn it down anyway. With Induction specific pots, the heating is really efficient/fast and you end up on a lower setting.

Not going to go gas (propane out here in the boonies) because then I would need a vent, and I don't feel like installing one. I don't miss it with our existing setup of the stove in an island, with open concept.
 
Holy *&^*&. Impressive but it will be so expensive and I am very concerned with the longevity of a TV stored underground (and full of ribbon cables). If I were doing an outdoor TV, I would probably use an old inside TV and put a better one inside. Otherwise, just buy something cheap and put it in an enclosure like a dartboard. Swing the doors shut when it is not in use to give it some weather protection. If you have some speakers kicking around, install them on the doors so they swing out and give you a wider soundstage.

EDIT:

I expected expensive but wtf. 1.5M USD. They are not going to sell many of those.
 
But why? 75" starts at $1300 now. Even if you lose one every year or two due to weather, you will always have the newest and best and still be in for less money.
He said it was gonna be a set up for the kids. Be a shame to watch them sizzle when **** gets wet.
 
They sell an inflatable screen for outside.
That's what you want.
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Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 
Thanks @Joe Bass looks like the most realistic option at this stage! I didn't consider the fact that it's so light in the summer late into the evening, and I have toddlers! LoL Guess it would be for me and the wife more than anything.

New project thought up.

So I've got this thing for working out...


And since I have a half rack, I can't really use it off the top of the rack, so I tie it to the bar, on the highest setting and it's usable...but wobbles the rack considerably.

Any suggestions on how to mount it to the ceiling properly? Was considering mounting it off a pull-up bar but the garage door entrance doesn't allow for that due to depth of the frame. And the ceiling is the best place that I can think of. Unless I use the pull-up bar to the outside...but at -12C I'm not willing to do that every time.

What would be the best way to mount to the joists, so I make sure it doesn't bring the drywall and the whole thing down. Don't think I'd need more than 100lbs.

Been trying to find this thing instead....


But prices are bananas as used is more expensive than new, as new is sold out everywhere.
 
Thanks @Joe Bass looks like the most realistic option at this stage! I didn't consider the fact that it's so light in the summer late into the evening, and I have toddlers! LoL Guess it would be for me and the wife more than anything.

New project thought up.

So I've got this thing for working out...


And since I have a half rack, I can't really use it off the top of the rack, so I tie it to the bar, on the highest setting and it's usable...but wobbles the rack considerably.

Any suggestions on how to mount it to the ceiling properly? Was considering mounting it off a pull-up bar but the garage door entrance doesn't allow for that due to depth of the frame. And the ceiling is the best place that I can think of. Unless I use the pull-up bar to the outside...but at -12C I'm not willing to do that every time.

What would be the best way to mount to the joists, so I make sure it doesn't bring the drywall and the whole thing down. Don't think I'd need more than 100lbs.

Been trying to find this thing instead....


But prices are bananas as used is more expensive than new, as new is sold out everywhere.
I would run an eyebolt into a truss member and then you can hook whatever to it with a steel carabiner. Safe working loads should be way more than you need. I would do 1/2" or 5/8" just to get more bite on the threads.


EDIT:
Even these poverty things would work. This one is 5/16" so 160 lbs SWL. I would go bigger just because.

 
I would run an eyebolt into a truss member and then you can hook whatever to it with a steel carabiner. Safe working loads should be way more than you need. I would do 1/2" or 5/8" just to get more bite on the threads.

I guess the only concern would be ensuring to hit the joist bang in the middle so it's well seated. Outside of that, should hold the weight fairly well.
Thanks!
 
I guess the only concern would be ensuring to hit the joist bang in the middle so it's well seated. Outside of that, should hold the weight fairly well.
Thanks!
You could lay a 4*4 across a couple of the bottom chords to avoid drilling the truss.

Sent from my couch using my thumbs
 
You could lay a 4*4 across a couple of the bottom chords to avoid drilling the truss.

Sent from my couch using my thumbs
IIRC, he just finished the ceiling and there might be rooms above. If he had access to the truss, I might use a u-bolt over the truss for something that could never fail (in normal weight lifting applications, loading the bottom chord of a truss is not a great plan in general but it is intermittent and not that much weight).
 

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