|
|
|
Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
Maybe, but then why no ABS underground and there is no UV inside walls.... Assuming I have it right about when and where.
The vast majority of pool plumbing is PVC and is fully exposed to UV for many years (often decades) without failure. I doubt UV is the reason.
I think you will find abs underground inside your house anyway. I don't even know where you would find pvc pipe not for pools or drinking water.
The Ontario Building Code | Plastic Pipe, Fittings and Solvent Cement Used Underground
www.buildingcode.online
Sent from my couch using my thumbs
Last edited:
Mad Mike
Well-known member
You can use either abs or pvc providing they meet code. PVC is common in septic systems and underground. Abs is cheaper and tougher, common above and underground drains. Polyethylene is used for pressurized water inside and out, not inside for drains.
I'm not an expert but PVC is very toxic when it burns so there may be a fire / fume concern.
Soft PVC has a plasticizer that can leech out but that is more prevalent with heat, More rigid PVCs may not leech as much.
If you're going to drink from a PVC garden hose don't do it from a black one that has been baking unused in the sun all day.
My daughter's house has a cast iron stack and the plumber spliced ABS into it.
They use different cements IIRC so what end of the joining piece gets the wrong cement?
A sleeve and clamps. No cement.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
The chemicals you talk about are phalates. They are cheap and effective vinyl plasticizers, they haven’t been used in building materials (hoses, windows, flooring etc) for a long time.
Cheap upholstery vinyl, plastic shower curtains - yes.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
PVC is common for pressure pipe in areas where it doesn’t freeze, particularly for irrigation. Not used much in cold climates as it bursts like copper if water freezes inside the pipe.
Poly pipe is used here because it tolerates freezing.
I used to see them in plastic heating cables where they had been overloaded. When the junction box was opened there'd be a cup of oil in it.
25K !!??
An old sea can can be had for about $2500 IIRC.
25 years ago I built my 16 x 28 garage for a about 6K (floating concrete slab and uninsulated shell with hydro) did it myself less slab and electric.
Now I'm thinking about going up one story ......
An old sea can can be had for about $2500 IIRC.
25 years ago I built my 16 x 28 garage for a about 6K (floating concrete slab and uninsulated shell with hydro) did it myself less slab and electric.
Now I'm thinking about going up one story ......
Looks like some digging is in my future....snow is melting and we're seeing ponding in certain spots of the yard.
Yard is approx 60x40 (will measure tonight) and there's a sewer drain about 5ft away beyond the fence that I might be able to build a french drain channel system to.
What's the best way to measure the slope of the ground moving away from the house?
I read that 1/8" drop per 1' is typically enough for drainage.
Other option is to build a dry well in the yard somewhere and direct to that. Probably somewhere close to the fence is best.
House is surrounded by concrete so it's more to alleviate the ponding in the yard.
Yard is approx 60x40 (will measure tonight) and there's a sewer drain about 5ft away beyond the fence that I might be able to build a french drain channel system to.
What's the best way to measure the slope of the ground moving away from the house?
I read that 1/8" drop per 1' is typically enough for drainage.
Other option is to build a dry well in the yard somewhere and direct to that. Probably somewhere close to the fence is best.
House is surrounded by concrete so it's more to alleviate the ponding in the yard.
Measuring slope can easily be done lots of ways depending on what you have kicking around. Laser level and a tape measure is fast and easy. You can build a water level out of some long clear tubing and a bucket. Or you can look at the water in your yard as it already found your low spots. Or a long straight piece of lumber and a level.
As for the sewer drain, are you talking about a rear yard catch basin on a neighbours lot?
Dad has a laser level so that'll be my first stop to pick it up.
sewer drain is on city property. Walking around the neighbourhood a lot of people have some lines running under their grass and I can only guess that they did the hole in the curb that drains out onto the street.
We're in a bit of a valley, and a few neighbours have mentioned that we used to be a swamp so the water table is quite high. But the plan is to drain it to the fence, and beyond that is city property with a very convenient channel towards the sewer grate. Wondering if that's the handiwork of the previous owner.
Another option for measuring ground (or any) level over distance: long open ended clear plastic tubing with water in it (filled) with just a bit of air at each end. Set up like a U with the two ends above ground at the two points (either two people hold up them are use something to hold them up like a stake). The water level at the two end points will be level, measure down from the water level to the ground to see the difference.
Never needs to be calibrated, works night and day, and the distance limit is the length of the tubing.
***
For the plumbing drain pipe, still lots of theories but no real for sure answers. Asked more plumbers same deal. I pulled the trigger on an Ontario plumbing code book.... may still end up with what and not why but hopefully for sure what.
Never needs to be calibrated, works night and day, and the distance limit is the length of the tubing.
***
For the plumbing drain pipe, still lots of theories but no real for sure answers. Asked more plumbers same deal. I pulled the trigger on an Ontario plumbing code book.... may still end up with what and not why but hopefully for sure what.
Last edited:
Same here...I'm not skilled enough, or fearless enough to go up on a ladder so this one I'm going to have to pay for.
I need to decide what to do with the fireplaces as when I do the roof I may just break it down brick by brick and do the roof shingles/eavestroughs and all the work at the same time. $$$
The only thing my chimney does now is support the TV antennas. If I take it down there's the roof patch and I have to build a mast the raccoons can't climb.
Driveway surface opinions. Paved is out of the question at this point due to cost. Have grade-A gravel down now but it turns basically muddy when wet so I need something better over it. Recycled asphalt or some other type of crushed stone?
In the meantime I’ve trimmed the fireplace and made/installed shelving in 5 closets and pretty happy with the results compared to the cheap metal racks that the builders guy wanted to do.
In the meantime I’ve trimmed the fireplace and made/installed shelving in 5 closets and pretty happy with the results compared to the cheap metal racks that the builders guy wanted to do.
Of course it depends on the size but we had ours paved a few years ago (asphalt) and I was surprised at how low it costs (few K)--including widening, removal of the old one, digging down, etc.. When I priced out doing something with gravel etc. it was not all that much cheaper.
We used a company that does lots of work in the area. They can offer lower pricing as they come and do a half dozen in a day. They did the removal and base in the spring and the paving in the early fall. That way the base where you drive gets extra compaction (but I am sure it is also cheaper for them to do it like this....).
|
|
|
|
|