Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 483 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

jc100 said:
What do you think the cost might be for someone to run wire and fit a new light box for a ceiling fan in a virgin ceiling? Access to the ceiling from above is pretty straightforward through an attic access hatch that’s about 12 ft linear distance to where the box needs to be placed. Attic has blown in insulation. Ceiling doesn’t appear to be anything exotic but it does have a spackled finish. There’s some available existing switches nearby on the wall to tie into already in place.

No idea what electricians charge for this kind of thing nowadays. I thought of doing it myself but sadly voiced that out loud and the wife said “no”. Something about “you’ll just fall through the ceiling”.

Do you need a building permit for this kind of thing?
Click to expand...
There is the electrical which will be a minimum of two hours, probably more like 2X.

Then where does the vent fan run to? Venting moist air into the attic isn't good idea.

Will you need a roof vent installed? Add for a roofer or DIY.

If there is a nearby existing vent you can get a two into one coupling from a sheet metal shop. depending on whether the devices already connected have back flow gates you might need the gates as well. Some power vents come with the back flow flaps.

I did a vent connection for a friend and the vent parts were around $100 IIRC, not including the roof penetration that was done by a pro.

Although it was for a good friend I didn't do the roof work as he wasn't a three story, steep pitch roof, good friend.

Said friend wondered why his bathroom vent wasn't drawing air. It turned out that the renovation contractor used 50 feet of drier vent to connect to a vent 15 feet away. The excess was snaked all over the attic and instead of connecting to a proper roof vent, he dropped down to a 2 inch fitting and teed into the soil stack.

Kevin???

Oops I may have misread. If it's a ceiling fan instead of a vent fan ignore most of what I wrote.
 
nobbie48 said:
There is the electrical which will be a minimum of two hours, probably more like 2X.

Then where does the vent fan run to? Venting moist air into the attic isn't good idea.

Will you need a roof vent installed? Add for a roofer or DIY.

If there is a nearby existing vent you can get a two into one coupling from a sheet metal shop. depending on whether the devices already connected have back flow gates you might need the gates as well. Some power vents come with the back flow flaps.

I did a vent connection for a friend and the vent parts were around $100 IIRC, not including the roof penetration that was done by a pro.

Although it was for a good friend I didn't do the roof work as he wasn't a three story, steep pitch roof, good friend.

Said friend wondered why his bathroom vent wasn't drawing air. It turned out that the renovation contractor used 50 feet of drier vent to connect to a vent 15 feet away. The excess was snaked all over the attic and instead of connecting to a proper roof vent, he dropped down to a 2 inch fitting and teed into the soil stack.

Kevin???

Oops I may have misread. If it's a ceiling fan instead of a vent fan ignore most of what I wrote.
Click to expand...

This is just a ceiling fan light fixture. No venting. We don’t have a light at all in the front room, we use stand lights. This would be a good way to get decent light and also add a nice cooling breeze.
 
GreyGhost said:
You can do electrical in your own home with an electrical permit and inspection.

It would be interesting to know how much a sparkie wanted. Attic in the warm weather will add some premium for not wanting to be there. Blown in will add some premium for cleanup as unless you have a good collar, some always falls through hatch.

Definitely try to minimize activity in blown in. Ime, everytime someone moves through, it loses substantial height.
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Attics hotboxes, tight spaces and blown insulation is apprentice turf. Sparkle will just inspect and sign.

As for cost, look for pot light installers - they are way cheaper and this is the stuff they do all day.

I’m guessing $250 for a non electrician. $800 for an electrician.
 
jc100 said:
This is just a ceiling fan light fixture. No venting. We don’t have a light at all in the front room, we use stand lights. This would be a good way to get decent light and also add a nice cooling breeze.
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Make sure to use a ceiling fan box.
You can buy a retrofit kit that will include the support arms to attach to the ceiling joist.
1717945203599.png

Or you can also get just the box and make your own wood supports. (Dimensional 2 x 4)
Something like this.
The deeper ones are better as it will be easier to stuff the cables into.
1717945447595.png
 
My contribution to the house work.

Not my casa, but at my parents house

Overhang for a twin wall polycarbonate sheets over a basement entrance.

Work in progress. Damn rain over the last 2 days delayed the work.

Removed old 12-15 year old structure that held the wavy style sheets (polycarbonate mixed with some fiber) and constructed new supports. The white posts and beam in between them was there already. All other PT lumber is new.

1717945827332.png
 
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jc100 said:
What do you think the cost might be for someone to run wire and fit a new light box for a ceiling fan in a virgin ceiling? Access to the ceiling from above is pretty straightforward through an attic access hatch that’s about 12 ft linear distance to where the box needs to be placed. Attic has blown in insulation. Ceiling doesn’t appear to be anything exotic but it does have a spackled finish. There’s some available existing switches nearby on the wall to tie into already in place.

No idea what electricians charge for this kind of thing nowadays. I thought of doing it myself but sadly voiced that out loud and the wife said “no”. Something about “you’ll just fall through the ceiling”.

Do you need a building permit for this kind of thing?
Click to expand...
If you DIY…

Prep work.

Get a disposable Tyvek suit, makes swimming thru insulation easier.

Cut 2 ply sheets 1/2” x 16” x >48” (or as big as you can get thru the access hole) to work like snowshoes over the insulation and ceiling joists. Also gives you a platform to kneel on. 2x8 or bigger work too.

Things to consider.

The fan location may not be directly lined up with a rafter. Use a fan support box, or add a framing member if the box isn’t attached to a ceiling joist.

Don’t forget the box Vapor barrier.

Run 14/3 from your switch to the light/fan so you can control them separately.

If you’re ok with just using the chain controls on the fan, you could tap an existing circuit in the attic (if you can find one).
 
oioioi said:
My contribution to the house work.

Not my casa, but at my parents house

Overhang for a twin wall polycarbonate sheets over a basement entrance.

Work in progress. Damn rain over the last 2 days delayed the work.

Removed old 12-15 year old structure that held the wavy style sheets (polycarbonate mixed with some fiber) and constructed new supports. The white posts and beam in between them was there already. All other PT lumber is new.

View attachment 68190
Click to expand...
That’s a lot of cantilever, was it that big before?

I’d be worried that could take snow and wind loads.
 
Mad Mike said:
That’s a lot of cantilever, was it that big before?

I’d be worried that could take snow and wind loads.
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That's not the actually finished product. Work in progress.
Those are 10ft 2 X 4s which were cut down to 8 feet.
You can see the 8 foot 1 X 4's on top of the 2 X 4s. That's the length they got shortened to.

The 2 X 4 facia board was only there overnight to prevent them from becoming twisted noodles.

The previous structure was just shy of 8 feet from the wall.
 
oioioi said:
My contribution to the house work.

Not my casa, but at my parents house

Overhang for a twin wall polycarbonate sheets over a basement entrance.

Work in progress. Damn rain over the last 2 days delayed the work.

Removed old 12-15 year old structure that held the wavy style sheets (polycarbonate mixed with some fiber) and constructed new supports. The white posts and beam in between them was there already. All other PT lumber is new.

View attachment 68190
Click to expand...
I like it and might copy a smaller version for over the BBQ. Where did you get the poly sheets?
 
nobbie48 said:
I like it and might copy a smaller version for over the BBQ. Where did you get the poly sheets?
Click to expand...
Canada Plastics & Belting.
Their site does not load well on Mobile. Use a PC instead.

canada-plastics.com

Polycarbonate Corrugated Panels Supplier in Toronto

Canada Plastics & Belting supplies polycarbonate corrugated panels that are made by lexan polycarbonate PC material. Great for greenhouses
canada-plastics.com canada-plastics.com



They also have small awning kits
1717951679478.png
canada-plastics.com

Awning For Windows | Canada Plastics

Enhance your windows with stylish and functional awnings. Protect your home from the elements while adding curb appeal with our range of window awnings.
canada-plastics.com canada-plastics.com
 
Mad Mike said:
That’s a lot of cantilever, was it that big before?

I’d be worried that could take snow and wind loads.
Click to expand...
It looks like there 2 support beams mid way through also…unless I’m not seeing it right.

As for me…another wall done today…

1717962299602.jpeg

Anybody need some James Hardie lap siding? I’ve got too much since my plan changed NOT to remove the shed above and clad both the house wall and shed…

1717962349117.jpeg
 
Hey guys, so I've got some cracks in my driveway. They are not terrible meaning causing lots crumbling of the drive. The part which is bothersome are the ants, they have somehow decided to make a home there and I have these massive sand hills which I want to get rid of.

Will this do the trick?

or this
 
sburns said:
Hey guys, so I've got some cracks in my driveway. They are not terrible meaning causing lots crumbling of the drive. The part which is bothersome are the ants, they have somehow decided to make a home there and I have these massive sand hills which I want to get rid of.

Will this do the trick?

or this
Click to expand...
I've used Sikaflex, and similar expandable/self levelling concrete caulking repair products. They work as intended.
Avoid the "bargain" brands.
 
sburns said:
Hey guys, so I've got some cracks in my driveway. They are not terrible meaning causing lots crumbling of the drive. The part which is bothersome are the ants, they have somehow decided to make a home there and I have these massive sand hills which I want to get rid of.

Will this do the trick?

or this
Click to expand...
How big are the cracks? Asphalt or concrete?
 
GreyGhost said:
How big are the cracks? Asphalt or concrete?
Click to expand...
Asphalt, not big at all, like hairlines, but those f-r's dug right in.
Even when the city last year re-did the bottom end of the drive it's a perfect straight butt, they are nesting there as well.
 
sburns said:
Hey guys, so I've got some cracks in my driveway. They are not terrible meaning causing lots crumbling of the drive. The part which is bothersome are the ants, they have somehow decided to make a home there and I have these massive sand hills which I want to get rid of.

Will this do the trick?

or this
Click to expand...
I've used the rubber driveway crack filler from Home Hardware with good results. I saw this product at Peavey Mart and it looks like it could work for you nicely. Has sand in it to fill small cracks and then seals as well.
 
Speaking of driveways...is there any way to DIY depressions in asphalt? I was an idiot and signed off on the asphalt mixer to come onto my driveway (even though he warned me) and now there's indents where water pools...

They're about 1-2ft wide, with a 1-2" depth at the worst part...any fix for that without ripping up the entire thing and spending an arm and a leg?
 
mimico_polak said:
Speaking of driveways...is there any way to DIY depressions in asphalt? I was an idiot and signed off on the asphalt mixer to come onto my driveway (even though he warned me) and now there's indents where water pools...

They're about 1-2ft wide, with a 1-2" depth at the worst part...any fix for that without ripping up the entire thing and spending an arm and a leg?
Click to expand...
You could pound in asphalt like you were filling potholes. That would fill depression but look like you filled holes. Not sure on longevity. I doubt the patch would be water tight and not sure if it would blow off the first winter. I'd he tempted to put some drainage holes in the driveway before the patch. They would also help to key the patch in place.
 
GreyGhost said:
You could pound in asphalt like you were filling potholes. That would fill depression but look like you filled holes. Not sure on longevity. I doubt the patch would be water tight and not sure if it would blow off the first winter. I'd he tempted to put some drainage holes in the driveway before the patch. They would also help to key the patch in place.
Click to expand...
Ya, it would look like a patchwork type of repair (which is what it would be). I can't afford 15-20k on a driveway re-asphalt right now (assuming that'll be the cost considering the size of my driveway).
 
mimico_polak said:
Ya, it would look like a patchwork type of repair (which is what it would be). I can't afford 15-20k on a driveway re-asphalt right now (assuming that'll be the cost considering the size of my driveway).
Click to expand...
Kevin did everything else in concrete, why didn't he do the driveway? Damn you kevin.

png___the_simpsons___old_man_yells_at_cloud_by_supercaptainn_dce4rpr-fullview.png
 
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