Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 481 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Great suggestions but probably not what my dad is looking to do .

Maybe I should have also mentioned.

The ceiling below is already finished with aluminum siding material and pot lights. From what I remember when we did it (15ish year ago) the ceiling is not sloped.
So redoing the ceiling as per suggestions is probably out of the questions.

The top of the balcony that we are looking to redo does have a rubber membrane on it already. It was previously finished with fake turf/carpet style layer. Over the years and do to the trees on the property (ours and neighbors) the carpet material started to rot and moss was growing in it.

The reason for the aluminum is that it is a low maintenance and long life solution. Trying to slope the joist any more is a crap load of additional work as there is 3/4 inch ply underneath the membrane. Knowing how I or my dad do this kinds of work there is a ton of glue and screws holding that plywood down to the joists.

Pressure treated decking or or composite decking will not be maintenance free and eventually have gaps in between the boards.
 
Remove current decking. Remove current plywood. Add shims to slope the plywood. Reinstall plywood. Add TYVEK or some other membrane (let me know as I have some left from my job), install new decking but level it first from the sloping plywood underneath.

That's how I would approach it.
 
nobbie48 said:
I've been getting good pricing, quality and advice from a local distributor.

On the XXXXX hour expectation I was told this was an average. One will last 2X XXXXX and the next one just X.
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ive heard that before, that local places can get these lights for like a third of the price. I'm more of a home depot guy just for the convenience that its open until 9pm.
 
Finally took down that iron post in the garden. Is there anything more satisfying that felling a metal tree with an angle grinder? Two large pieces but I’m trying to grind down the bit in the concrete at the bottom to ground level. Already had to put out two tiny grass fires from sparks.

Edit: three
 
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Anyone have a good link for where to get ceiling fans for a reasonable price? Or can recommend a good brand? I need to buy 2 for the house. Nothing fancy, just white ceiling fans with an LED light around 48"...

The last one I had was a Modern Forms Axis 52", and while it looked nice, had a lot of issues with the remote and made noises when it ran - not what I expected when I paid close to $600 for it.
 
48Connor said:
Anyone have a good link for where to get ceiling fans for a reasonable price? Or can recommend a good brand? I need to buy 2 for the house. Nothing fancy, just white ceiling fans with an LED light around 48"...

The last one I had was a Modern Forms Axis 52", and while it looked nice, had a lot of issues with the remote and made noises when it ran - not what I expected when I paid close to $600 for it.
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I have one that you can have for free.
I will need to do firm if it has led light in it or not.
It's practically brand new but the remote module crapped out. You can replace with a universal one from Amazon for approx 20-30 bucks.

I will send details on it when I get home.
 
Do you have three wires up to the fan? If so, I would install a hard-wired control and skip remotes. At my last house they only ran two wires to fan so I installed a Lutron conversion kit with receiver in the fan base and a switch that gave both fan and light dimming in a single gang. It worked perfectly for years before we sold the house.
 
oioioi said:
I have one that you can have for free.
I will need to do firm if it has led light in it or not.
It's practically brand new but the remote module crapped out. You can replace with a universal one from Amazon for approx 20-30 bucks.

I will send details on it when I get home.
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Thanks for the offer - I was hoping to get two matching ones however!
 
GreyGhost said:
Do you have three wires up to the fan? If so, I would install a hard-wired control and skip remotes. At my last house they only ran two wires to fan so I installed a Lutron conversion kit with receiver in the fan base and a switch that gave both fan and light dimming in a single gang. It worked perfectly for years before we sold the house.
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No just two wires. There are just the old boob lights there now.

I'll take a look at the Lutron kit. That looks pretty cool
 
Jampy00 said:
Yes, that has been our go to for years as well, I've seen some "patio brushes" powered and unpowered they look interesting, but some are costly and not really sure how they will do against our monster weeds...
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The use of proper sand will go along way in preventing weeds. As well as ants.
 
Jfc

Was sanding the interior window ledge in the front bay window and the wood felt soft. Got curious and pulled some of the flashing back from under the window....

The other side has started to rot, though no where near as bad. Window has to come to fix it. Debating if I'm taking the window out, do I just get rid of the bay window and go back to flat? The bay window was added on probably 20 years ago.

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48Connor said:
Jfc

Was sanding the interior window ledge in the front bay window and the wood felt soft. Got curious and pulled some of the flashing back from under the window....

The other side has started to rot, though no where near as bad. Window has to come to fix it. Debating if I'm taking the window out, do I just get rid of the bay window and go back to flat? The bay window was added on probably 20 years ago.

View attachment 68122
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That can usually be fixed insitu. Try dissecting back the bad corner to see if the framing can be replaced from the outside.

Watch a few YouTube videos on replacing rot in wood boats, it might make you situation look like a walk in the park!
 
48Connor said:
Jfc

Was sanding the interior window ledge in the front bay window and the wood felt soft. Got curious and pulled some of the flashing back from under the window....

The other side has started to rot, though no where near as bad. Window has to come to fix it. Debating if I'm taking the window out, do I just get rid of the bay window and go back to flat? The bay window was added on probably 20 years ago.

View attachment 68122
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I would keep the bay. Adds a lot of light some additional visibility and a little space.
 
Mad Mike said:
That can usually be fixed insitu. Try dissecting back the bad corner to see if the framing can be replaced from the outside.

Watch a few YouTube videos on replacing rot in wood boats, it might make you situation look like a walk in the park!
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That was my original plan. It would appear that the 3/4" plywood is the framing, and everything underneath is simply there to support the fascia. If the window is cantilevered on the edge of the plywood, Im not sure if I can cut out a portion and slip a new one in

I've got a family friend who runs a home reno business coming over to see what his thoughts are.
 
GreyGhost said:
I would keep the bay. Adds a lot of light some additional visibility and a little space.
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Yeah I like the bay window. My only gripe is the front of the bay window is nearly inline with the edge of the gutters, so it's getting rain all the time. Not the entire reason it leaked by definitely a contributing factor
 
48Connor said:
That was my original plan. It would appear that the 3/4" plywood is the framing, and everything underneath is simply there to support the fascia. If the window is cantilevered on the edge of the plywood, Im not sure if I can cut out a portion and slip a new one in

I've got a family friend who runs a home reno business coming over to see what his thoughts are.
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On the plus side, it sounds like the original install was dodgy. That can make repair easier. If you don't mind changing the look slightly, you could have the new framing run down at an angle to better support the window.
 
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