Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 452 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Wall to wall . What’s it need to support ? How many supports will you be installing with it .? Does it need to be 1.5” thick?
Pine is readily available , spf 2x will look ugly , mdf is cheap and easy and available in 7/8 , 1, 1 1/8 , 1 3/8 , so you can custom the look a bit . What city / town are you in and we can advise a source .


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crankcall said:
Wall to wall . What’s it need to support ? How many supports will you be installing with it .? Does it need to be 1.5” thick?
Pine is readily available , spf 2x will look ugly , mdf is cheap and easy and available in 7/8 , 1, 1 1/8 , 1 3/8 , so you can custom the look a bit . What city / town are you in and we can advise a source .


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Thanks I thought this might be up your alley.
I'm in da hood (Scarb, Toronto, close to Pickering)

Going for a more rustic look, but not 100%, partly why the thickness, not so much what it needs to hold.
Supports will be on the ends with smaller supports along the edges, not sure yet with brackets of some sort, or floating hidden ones.
 
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I would (or is it wood) make it out of two layers of 3/4 plywood in the veneer of your choice and use real wood down the visible edges which you could make look rustic (lightly distress). Getting 9' is possible in one sheet but I would just go either 8 feet or just stagger the pieces to go to 9.

If you try to make it out of solid lumber (one piece) you may end up with a giant propeller. Specially construction grade....

You could laminate up a panel of real wood but not construction grade....
 
@Relax I had a moment to look at the HD pricing, super weird 30M of 10/3 AC is $129, NMD is $249! Even at 75m the AC is still cheaper than NMD. Something seems off to me...

Regardless, running 10/3 AC through joists may not be fun if you need to turn etc. and neatly into the panel overall it will be a PITA. And I am one of the few people that finds working with AC zen (80% of my basement is armoured). If you go AC make sure to install insulator bushings, etc. very common DIY mistake with AC.

Like @oioioi said, if the garage wall is drywall or otherwise hollow, run/fish the wire inside, no need for extra protection and neater. At worse you have need to fix the drywall in a spot or two (like if there is blocking in your way).

For block/concrete walls I have surface mounted 10/3 Romex, I cover it with aluminum U channel bolted over the wire to the block wall. I grind off the anodizing (it is an insulator) and add a ground to the box. ESA has never had any issue with this.

Post up some pics, it will help. I am in Etobicoke if you want another set of eyes and are nearby.
 
sburns said:
Thanks I thought this might be up your alley.
I'm in da hood (Scarb, Toronto, close to Pickering)

Going for a more rustic look, but not 100%, partly why the thickness, not so much what it needs to hold.
Supports will be on the ends with smaller supports along the edges, not sure yet with brackets of some sort, or floating hidden ones.
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In the other direction around Newcastle/Orono area there's a guy that mills his own wood and his prices are quite reasonable. Any size/type you want. If that interests you I can try to find out the guys name/contact info again.
 
West end , zip out to Peacock Lumber , they have everything made out of wood ever . Or go north to century mill but you’ll pay a good dollar. I like the idea of plywood , it’s flat and stable . If you use two layers of 5/8 or 3/4 as suggested, you can do a staggered joint using 8 ft ply to get 9ft without paying the stupid premium for 10ft plywood , a front piece of 1x2 pine at 9ft hides the seams . Lots of glue and a throw away paint roller. I don’t know your level of handy . I did some a while ago using two layers of wood . Cut a dado with a router , sandwiched ply . fastened L bracket to the studs and slid the shelf onto bracket. I had pulled off the drywall where the brackets were going so they were direct to the studs , then put drywall back to hide , shelves looked floating .


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Hardwrkr13 said:
In the other direction around Newcastle/Orono area there's a guy that mills his own wood and his prices are quite reasonable. Any size/type you want. If that interests you I can try to find out the guys name/contact info again.
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Thanks, I'll try looking around a bit more local first and see how that goes and get back to you.

I hope I am not making a mountain out of this little project.
 
I helped out a buddy and did kitchen/ dining room with hardwood flooring . It’s a couple hundred sq ft but geez it’s actual work. @Mimico , don’t become a flooring installer as a sideline . I’m sore .


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crankcall said:
I helped out a buddy and did kitchen/ dining room with hardwood flooring . It’s a couple hundred sq ft but geez it’s actual work. @Mimico , don’t become a flooring installer as a sideline . I’m sore .


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I'm still holding onto a flooring cleat gun in case my brother ever buys a place. Odds are it will be small and hardwood is a relatively cheap and fast way to improve a dump (again, given his budget, it will need some love).
 
crankcall said:
I helped out a buddy and did kitchen/ dining room with hardwood flooring . It’s a couple hundred sq ft but geez it’s actual work. @Mimico , don’t become a flooring installer as a sideline . I’m sore .


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Hahaha ya it’s a pain. I’ve done about 4 properties now with installation of engineered hardwood flooring…I actually don’t mind it. Hardest part is always the first row…get that wrong and you’re screwed.
 
mimico_polak said:
Hahaha ya it’s a pain. I’ve done about 4 properties now with installation of engineered hardwood flooring…I actually don’t mind it. Hardest part is always the first row…get that wrong and you’re screwed.
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Agree. Like tile, the planning and layout (and subsequent chalk lines) can make or break you. In my last house, I wanted the hardwood to run lengthwise in hallway but perpendicular in the bedrooms. Transitions in direction happened under the doors. A lot of time was spent getting that right. Looked awesome when it was done.
 
I like doing it . And I think I’m pretty decent at it ( end result looks good ) but it’s hard on the body when it’s not a regular thing . I did the upstairs of this house 2 yrs ago, the living room and stairs last yr and now finished the rest. He has tons of cash , but couldn’t project manage building a snow man. It’s a matte finish white oak , I made all the stair treads and nosings and had a paint shop make me a stain that matched the factory product 99% . I probably had three days making solid wood treads and milling them up , but I like that sort of thing .


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My next project should be a full makeover of the 30 year old bathroom. The problem is if I go luxury it makes the rest of the house look shabby by contrast. Plus I don't want to spend the price of a new car on it.

I once saw a gilt and marble bathroom in a virtually untouched 1940 house. It was like stepping out of Taj Mahal and into a concrete plant.
 
nobbie48 said:
My next project should be a full makeover of the 30 year old bathroom. The problem is if I go luxury it makes the rest of the house look shabby by contrast. Plus I don't want to spend the price of a new car on it.

I once saw a gilt and marble bathroom in a virtually untouched 1940 house. It was like stepping out of Taj Mahal and into a concrete plant.
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Are you doing this for you or the next person? What is happening with sales in your area? Teardowns or moving in? If the odds are high that they are buying the lot not the house, bathroom money is lit on fire, paint, vanity, comfort height toilet and call it a day.
 
nobbie48 said:
My next project should be a full makeover of the 30 year old bathroom. The problem is if I go luxury it makes the rest of the house look shabby by contrast. Plus I don't want to spend the price of a new car on it.

I once saw a gilt and marble bathroom in a virtually untouched 1940 house. It was like stepping out of Taj Mahal and into a concrete plant.
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My buddy is doing his bathroom right now. Small bathroom so he’s spending less than 5k on it.

The one upstairs…that cost closer to 10k with heated floor, jacuzzi tub, and granite wall to wall.

But everything was DIY and my cousin and I helped him out with majority of it.

I’ve got 2 bathrooms to update…that’s a 2025-2026 problem.
 
I’m doing a 2pc now , $700 toilet , 2k vanity , $400 tile , $500 light mirror. Should be under 4 done , doing it myself . Yes I could do it all for $1000. But it would look like it and that’s not what I’d like .
Next bath will get new doors and drawer fronts and a new toilet . And new vanity top , current top has the clam shell shaped sink , that went out 20yrs ago.
You can blow your brains out on bathrooms.


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crankcall said:
I’m doing a 2pc now , $700 toilet , 2k vanity , $400 tile , $500 light mirror. Should be under 4 done , doing it myself . Yes I could do it all for $1000. But it would look like it and that’s not what I’d like .
Next bath will get new doors and drawer fronts and a new toilet . And new vanity top , current top has the clam shell shaped sink , that went out 20yrs ago.
You can blow your brains out on bathrooms.


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The cost, while a factor, isn't the only consideration. I was talking to a client in Rosedale and he needed a new kitchen but bucks were scarce. He could afford an Ikea kitchen but in his neighbourhood an Ikea kitchen would actually lower the value of his house. In Rosedale one expects something snottier and Ikea would be like a Maaco paint job on a Porsche. What are you hiding?
 
I’d like to see a percentage of Rosedale/Forest Hill homes that gut the kitchen move in day .
People see nice finishes , stone tops , high end appliances, do they care if drawer boxes are dovetailed? Do they know the difference?


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crankcall said:
I’d like to see a percentage of Rosedale/Forest Hill homes that gut the kitchen move in day .
People see nice finishes , stone tops , high end appliances, do they care if drawer boxes are dovetailed? Do they know the difference?


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Some of the machine made dovetailed drawers i have seen are awful. Just no ^#^@" given in setup and it shows. Checkbox for the sell sheet and/or upcharge. Many should have been rejected and never installed.
 
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