Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 451 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Short length lumber at Home Depot... I noticed this a couple of times lately. So keep an eye out.

First when buying LVLs we noticed one in the pile was about 10 inches shorter than 12 feet. My guess is someone cut it wrong and returned it, HD just put it back on the floor (likely not checking it). It would suck if you needed the full length and realized it at the job site during install. We told them, no idea what they did.

Yesterday, I bought six 2X2s one was 8 inches shorter than 8 feet and was not cut completely straight. My guess is someone needed an 8 inch 2x2, cut it off the non-UPC code end with a hand saw and then returned the rest to get their $3.62 back.... I could have returned it (noticed at home) but it was not worth the effort as I was cutting them into 3" blocks as insulation spacers. I was so preoccupied with another one having a different UPC code I didn't notice in the store.
 
backmarkerducati said:
Short length lumber at Home Depot... I noticed this a couple of times lately. So keep an eye out.

First when buying LVLs we noticed one in the pile was about 10 inches shorter than 12 feet. My guess is someone cut it wrong and returned it, HD just put it back on the floor (likely not checking it). It would suck if you needed the full length and realized it at the job site during install. We told them, no idea what they did.

Yesterday, I bought six 2X2s one was 8 inches shorter than 8 feet and was not cut completely straight. My guess is someone needed an 8 inch 2x2, cut it off the non-UPC code end with a hand saw and then returned the rest to get their $3.62 back.... I could have returned it (noticed at home) but it was not worth the effort as I was cutting them into 3" blocks as insulation spacers. I was so preoccupied with another one having a different UPC code I didn't notice in the store.
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On the flip side, if you needed an 11' LVL and pointed out that their 12' wasn't as long as it was supposed to be, there is a good chance you get it for the price of a 10' or less. They aren't setup to deal with parts that don't fit into their SKU's so they often blow them out for half price. Sure, they could cut it to 10' and sell it that way but that requires staff to cut and change the SKU. That's not likely to happen.
 
The big boxes often don’t have an option to change from 12ft to 10ft or 11ft . It’s a SKU , one item and they keep 12s and 16s . Real lumberyards can sort that out , but they usually have a guy that looks after LVL and timberstand products . It’s not usually a guy that was assembling BBQs an hour ago.


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backmarkerducati said:
Short length lumber at Home Depot... I noticed this a couple of times lately. So keep an eye out.

First when buying LVLs we noticed one in the pile was about 10 inches shorter than 12 feet. My guess is someone cut it wrong and returned it, HD just put it back on the floor (likely not checking it). It would suck if you needed the full length and realized it at the job site during install. We told them, no idea what they did.

Yesterday, I bought six 2X2s one was 8 inches shorter than 8 feet and was not cut completely straight. My guess is someone needed an 8 inch 2x2, cut it off the non-UPC code end with a hand saw and then returned the rest to get their $3.62 back.... I could have returned it (noticed at home) but it was not worth the effort as I was cutting them into 3" blocks as insulation spacers. I was so preoccupied with another one having a different UPC code I didn't notice in the store.
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I don't know about the other stores but my experience with HD is they don't check returns and just throw the item back on the shelf.

Once I bought a string trimmer but checked it when I got to the parking lot. I had been used and was covered in mud.

I bought a 5 gallon water heater and when I got to site found it had been hooked up as it had added fittings.

I returned a power tool in the original big carton and they wheeled it away as I was getting a full credit. I could have kept one of the batteries.

They are good at correcting the errors but they don't give you credit for the lost time.

Check carefully with opened packages before you leave the store. Check battery date codes.
 
I raked up 6 to 8 bushels of sawdust off the back lawn, the last of the removal of the maple tree. Is it OK to spread it onthe garden? Yard waste pickup is finished for the season.

It's also wet and I don't know if it's subject to spontanious combustion.
 
What’s the best way to fix this plastic trim piece on shed (other than replacing as I don’t know how it comes off)? I have some colour match paint already if I can repair it.
IMG_5064.jpeg
 
Hardwrkr13 said:
What’s the best way to fix this plastic trim piece on shed (other than replacing as I don’t know how it comes off)? I have some colour match paint already if I can repair it.
View attachment 65529
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Was it cut before installation? Did it crack in the cold? Left gap appears to be a crack, right may be a gap between two sticks that opened up in the cold. Are those the only two spots that need repair? I assume this is a long strip that expands/contracts a lot.
 
Hardwrkr13 said:
Yes one long strip. Those are the only two spots and they weren’t there for the first 2yrs then suddenly appeared.
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My money is on fastened too tightly. Cant contract in the cold and snaps. What do the gaps look like in the summer? If you fill the gap with something solid now, you may get weird bowing in the summer. @mimico_polak could bend you up a piece of aluminum.
 
Hardwrkr13 said:
What’s the best way to fix this plastic trim piece on shed (other than replacing as I don’t know how it comes off)? I have some colour match paint already if I can repair it.
View attachment 65529
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The one on the left looks like a crack. The one on the right looks like they were fitted together and just slipped apart in the cold.

Best fix? Caulk it and paint it. Unless you can slide them back together into one another again.

But it looks like the cold and it contracted from the weather.

Looks like 2 pieces to me.

When they get installed there’s a way to bend them to slot into an open groove, or a bend that gets nailed into the frame. That’s how we did it anyway.

You’re welcome to come and use the bender, but it’s tucked away now so would need a heads up to clear it for use.
 
Mad Mike said:
Getting into the garage:
Come thru the wall horizontally with a 1" hole.

Cut a short piece of 3/4" PVC conduit so it protrudes enough to slide into the 90 line box (first pic) and at least flush with the wall inside the house. Tap it into the hole -- it will be a tight fit, it protects against wire chafing and critters.
-- The alternate solution is to use BX cable, no conduit. be sure to drill at 60 degrees up/down when going between basement and house -- bx in 10AWG isn't very bendy. Don't forget the red devils on the BX ends.

Inside the Garage.
You'll want to mount a utility box on the wall at least 5' (1.5M) above the floor, this will house your thermostat (assuming it's in a convenient location). Measure and cut 3/4" conduit to connect the 90-line box to the utility box . You'll need a threaded connector&nut at one end, and some PVC glue. It's easier to fish your wire thru the conduit before connecting and gluing it together.

I don't believe you need armor/conduit from the utility box (at 5') to the heater. You'll have a few feet of PVC left over, might as well use it.

Connect the heater to the utility box and wire in your stat and you're done.

Notes:
Be sure to retain PVC conduit with the u shaped saddles shown below, no more than 36" between fixed points.
You're supposed to seal between the conduit and wire inside the house using plumber's putty for gas proofing.


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Thanks for all the suggestions. I've been putting this off, but finally had the time to think over the options and am ready to tackle this now. The plan is to use armor cable all the way because Home Depot has 30M of 10/3 AC90 for $130, or half the price of NMD90 (Romex), unless I'm missing something? Of course, if you guys have any recommendations for better pricing, please let me know.

So the inside run will be about 10M of AC90 from the panel up the wall, through/between the joists across to a hole drilled through to the garage at the highest point possible, which should only be about 3 feet above the garage floor. Instead of bending a continuous run of AC90, I'll cut it and use a box to join a separate vertical run up to the heater. The plastic 90 line box has a much nicer finished look than the traditional metal box - can that be used with Armored cable as long as it fits inside?
 

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Relax said:
Thanks for all the suggestions. I've been putting this off, but finally had the time to think over the options and am ready to tackle this now. The plan is to use armor cable all the way because Home Depot has 30M of 10/3 AC90 for $130, or half the price of NMD90 (Romex), unless I'm missing something? Of course, if you guys have any recommendations for better pricing, please let me know.

So the inside run will be about 10M of AC90 from the panel up the wall, through/between the joists across to a hole drilled through to the garage at the highest point possible, which should only be about 3 feet above the garage floor. Instead of bending a continuous run of AC90, I'll cut it and use a box to join a separate vertical run up to the heater. The plastic 90 line box has a much nicer finished look than the traditional metal box - can that be used with Armored cable as long as it fits inside?
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Calling @oioioi
 
GreyGhost said:
My money is on fastened too tightly. Cant contract in the cold and snaps. What do the gaps look like in the summer? If you fill the gap with something solid now, you may get weird bowing in the summer. @mimico_polak could bend you up a piece of aluminum.
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Gaps are the same in the summer. I can't slide it back together.
 
Relax said:
Thanks for all the suggestions. I've been putting this off, but finally had the time to think over the options and am ready to tackle this now. The plan is to use armor cable all the way because Home Depot has 30M of 10/3 AC90 for $130, or half the price of NMD90 (Romex), unless I'm missing something? Of course, if you guys have any recommendations for better pricing, please let me know.

So the inside run will be about 10M of AC90 from the panel up the wall, through/between the joists across to a hole drilled through to the garage at the highest point possible, which should only be about 3 feet above the garage floor. Instead of bending a continuous run of AC90, I'll cut it and use a box to join a separate vertical run up to the heater. The plastic 90 line box has a much nicer finished look than the traditional metal box - can that be used with Armored cable as long as it fits inside?
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That fitting is for conduit and not for what you want to do. It is also not for a splice. I doubt that the AC is cheaper than, to that level, Romex but it could be clearance or a sale???

Regardless of price, I would run Romex from the panel to the garage, specially 10/3 will not be fun running through the floor joists etc. Can it be done. yes...would I do it, NO. Inside the garage have the Romex come into the back of a proper electrical box with a cover (dryer size should do) and then switch to AC there for the garage run. Anything below four feet (but it may be five, early morning pre-coffee) should also be protected, even in the garage. Even AC may require protection.

The other option is Romex to the box and using the proper wires etc. then conduit from the box to where you are going.
 
Relax said:
Thanks for all the suggestions. I've been putting this off, but finally had the time to think over the options and am ready to tackle this now. The plan is to use armor cable all the way because Home Depot has 30M of 10/3 AC90 for $130, or half the price of NMD90 (Romex), unless I'm missing something? Of course, if you guys have any recommendations for better pricing, please let me know.

So the inside run will be about 10M of AC90 from the panel up the wall, through/between the joists across to a hole drilled through to the garage at the highest point possible, which should only be about 3 feet above the garage floor. Instead of bending a continuous run of AC90, I'll cut it and use a box to join a separate vertical run up to the heater. The plastic 90 line box has a much nicer finished look than the traditional metal box - can that be used with Armored cable as long as it fits inside?
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@Relax
Take a few more pictures of the garage wall as well as the joist cavity in the basement.

I bet that all this wiring can be run and concealed within the garage wall behind the drywall. If it was my place, I would try to conceal as much of at possible.
I would rather drill a hole in the wall if necessary and cover it with a cover plate or access panel instead of using the 90 degreee LB you pictured above, or any other pipe/conduit. The PVC LB is typically used for outside applications. All (most) inside application use metal (EMT) conduit. Watertight EMT is also available.

Concealing it within the wall may be a little tricky but I'm sure it can be done with the right tools and a good look at what we are dealing with. Previous experience may also help. lol

Romex/loomex is typically the cheapest of all wire options. Anything armored (BX) will be more expensive is the same conductor size/count. TECK (wet application armored cable) is even more expensive.

It is easiest to buy cable from HD but it for sure is not the cheapest.

I am happy to stop by your place if you would like another set of eyes to look at this project. I also have all the tools necessary for drilling/pulling wire. If you are not in a hurry (as in today) and I can also check with my supplier for better pricing of cable vs. HD pricing.
PM if if you would like.
 
Hey Guys where else does one buy lumber from besides big box stores like HD, Rona?

I'm planning to put up some wall to wall shelves in one of my rooms. About 9 ft. So all those decorative shelving just isn't long enough.
So I'm just going to by some wood pieces. 9' L 12" D 1.5" T something like that.
Might not be worth looking around It's only a couple of shelves but I thought I would check just in case.
 
sburns said:
Hey Guys where else does one buy lumber from besides big box stores like HD, Rona?

I'm planning to put up some wall to wall shelves in one of my rooms. About 9 ft. So all those decorative shelving just isn't long enough.
So I'm just going to by some wood pieces. 9' L 12" D 1.5" T something like that.
Might not be worth looking around It's only a couple of shelves but I thought I would check just in case.
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Does it have to be 12"? 2x12x10' is easy to buy but only 11.25" that would obviously be spf. If you want pretty wood like maple or cherry, you'll have to mortgage your house to buy it. MDF ripped to size may work. You can find it in 10' sheets.

Edit:
You could face the 2x12 with plywood or mdf straps to get 12". You'd have a seam but that gives you a chance to practice trim carpentry.
 
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GreyGhost said:
Does it have to be 12"? 2x12x10' is easy to buy but only 11.25" that would obviously be spf. If you want pretty wood like maple or cherry, you'll have to mortgage your house to buy it. MDF ripped to size may work. You can find it in 10' sheets.
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11.25" might be close enough. I would prefer real wood but I won't say no until I look at it.
But yeah I hear ya going that way might be pricey.
 
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