Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 443 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Your old windows are almost immaterial. You need new windows off the list. That's all that matter. It sounds like you have that.
Yep, While I would never normally take a loan to pay for this, at 0% over 10 years it will free up cash for other projects.
While the list for exterior work is short, they are all big projects. Either spend $$ now or spend more $$$ later
 
When I did my windows 4-5 years ago, my windows guy told me the same thing.
Only specific window are approved. By the time all the paperwork and approval is done and you pay the tax, you may save a few bucks for a cup of coffee.

We opted out of it and saved on the JT fees.
Window guy was bullshitting you. My kid replaced 2 basement windows, 5 main floor windows, a patio door and front door in a very small house this summer.

The stock windows and doors from Home Depot qualified. The windows and doors cost $2800 ish, the grant paid $1575.
 
From the little I know so far, when setting up for the first inspection they wanted to know the business I was dealing with. This was to confirm they were on the list of approved companies. Now, no idea what is required to get approved?
 
Try to start the very full dishwasher late last night. Lights look like it's working, but no fill or pump. Fack. Need to repair before bed. Quick google. wth? Pic isn't mine but there are dozens of pics of burned contacts on the door switch. Opened mine up and it's the same (much worse than pic but same idea). Boo Fridgidaire. Just keep cranking out dishwashers that try to light on fire. No need to update parts, this generates a stream of replacement dishwashers.

Fwiw, contacts inside the switch are fine with no marks. No signs of water intrusion inside door. Not sure why the spades burn on all of them. Max draw is less than 10A. They pass all power for dishwasher (except for the tiny amount of power needed for the control panel) through these spades. Not set tight enough from factory?

Temporarily fixed. Need to decide how likely I think a fire is to formulate a longer term plan.

img_20210323_164942_hdr-jpg.57336
 
Try to start the very full dishwasher late last night. Lights look like it's working, but no fill or pump. Fack. Need to repair before bed. Quick google. wth? Pic isn't mine but there are dozens of pics of burned contacts on the door switch. Opened mine up and it's the same (much worse than pic but same idea). Boo Fridgidaire. Just keep cranking out dishwashers that try to light on fire. No need to update parts, this generates a stream of replacement dishwashers.

Fwiw, contacts inside the switch are fine with no marks. No signs of water intrusion inside door. Not sure why the spades burn on all of them. Max draw is less than 10A. They pass all power for dishwasher (except for the tiny amount of power needed for the control panel) through these spades. Not set tight enough from factory?

Temporarily fixed. Need to decide how likely I think a fire is to formulate a longer term plan.

img_20210323_164942_hdr-jpg.57336
Excellent design. Fast simple assembly and planned obsolescence.
 
A colleague may need to remove and reset his 1000 square feet of interlock. Avenue Road / Lawrence area. Any guess at price? Next no materials needed.
 
A colleague may need to remove and reset his 1000 square feet of interlock. Avenue Road / Lawrence area. Any guess at price? Next no materials needed.
Postal code pricing on that is not going to be friendly. Is this a job for now or the spring? Is he paying cash? All the landscapers are on pogey right now.
 
When we did our reno’s 6 years ago, the only thing we didn’t do was the basement and now it’s time.

Going to have all perimeter walls removed since the original build didn’t have them insulated. Will also have new floors, laundry room, bedroom, bathroom and a bunch of other stuff.

Couple questions:
Anyone have heated floors in their basement and if so, just in certain areas or throughout?
Is it worth it to insulate a basement with spray foam?

Thanks!
 
When we did our reno’s 6 years ago, the only thing we didn’t do was the basement and now it’s time.

Going to have all perimeter walls removed since the original build didn’t have them insulated. Will also have new floors, laundry room, bedroom, bathroom and a bunch of other stuff.

Couple questions:
Anyone have heated floors in their basement and if so, just in certain areas or throughout?
Is it worth it to insulate a basement with spray foam?

Thanks!
I would install the heated floors everywhere in the basement if I was redoing mine now.

Have them on separate circuits so you don’t warm the entire one if you’re only using a small room.

I highly recommend spray foam insulation over anything else. Not cheap, but great.
 
When we did our reno’s 6 years ago, the only thing we didn’t do was the basement and now it’s time.

Going to have all perimeter walls removed since the original build didn’t have them insulated. Will also have new floors, laundry room, bedroom, bathroom and a bunch of other stuff.

Couple questions:
Anyone have heated floors in their basement and if so, just in certain areas or throughout?
Is it worth it to insulate a basement with spray foam?

Thanks!
Heated floor are great everywhere but cost is usually the factor. The electrical load tends to be around 12 watts per square foot. Our 250 SF rec room would be around 3 Kw, 13 amps @ 240 volts. We didn't do it as we only have a 100 Amp panel. Zoning is recommended and in some cases required by code. A lot depends on how you use the space.

Electric is simple and low profile, minimum headroom loss. Water / glycol systems can use a gas boiler minimizing panel upgrades but raise the floor a bit more.

Lots of factors. PM me your # if you want to discuss options.
 
When we did our reno’s 6 years ago, the only thing we didn’t do was the basement and now it’s time.

Going to have all perimeter walls removed since the original build didn’t have them insulated. Will also have new floors, laundry room, bedroom, bathroom and a bunch of other stuff.

Couple questions:
Anyone have heated floors in their basement and if so, just in certain areas or throughout?
Is it worth it to insulate a basement with spray foam?

Thanks!
Underpinning or keeping existing height? Do you have an inch or more to lose if you wanted to install heat? How much time do you plan on spending down there?

I like elevated basement floors to give the inevitable leak a way to run to a drain without destroying everything. Some air circulation below the floor keeps the mold away. Something like dry core as a concept but there are multiple ways to do it. I did it before at a buddies house using rolls of foundation waterproofing with plywood on top pinned down to the concrete. My old house had plywood on 2x4 runners with some slots through for drainage/air. Once you separate the subfloor and concrete, I don't think you need heated floors.

@nobbie48 would know better but I think a heated floor would be more than 12 watts/sq ft (that is the typical number over wood but some of your heat would go down into slab so I suspect you would need a higher wattage). Capital cost plus operating cost will be far higher than the elevated floor.

I wouldnt be putting spray foam in a basement for lots of reasons. I like roxul below grade as it drains well and doesn't slump when wet. As with the floor, I want air circulation against the concrete. Spray foam stops that. Water will still come through the concrete but the spray foam won't stop it, it will just make it a nightmare to find the source. Spray foam on the rim joist above grade seems like a good idea as getting a decent vapor barrier there is very labour intensive (and normally fails as there are miles of tape and acoustic sealant).
 
Spray foam in a 2x4 framing will be about the same insulation as batts in a 2x6. I like spray foam where space is a premium, I have never done it in a basement Reno as the premium for spray foam is approx $45/lf of insulated wall. I’d get actual costs from your contractor.

Insulating or hearing an existing floor doesn’t save on energy in our climate, (assuming you heat and cool). It can add some comfort in the winter.

Doing a good hvac assessment will make sure the system gets configured for basement comfort. Circulation is key, I’ve solved cold basements with smart thermostats.
 
Underpinning or keeping existing height? Do you have an inch or more to lose if you wanted to install heat? How much time do you plan on spending down there?

I like elevated basement floors to give the inevitable leak a way to run to a drain without destroying everything. Some air circulation below the floor keeps the mold away. Something like dry core as a concept but there are multiple ways to do it. I did it before at a buddies house using rolls of foundation waterproofing with plywood on top pinned down to the concrete. My old house had plywood on 2x4 runners with some slots through for drainage/air. Once you separate the subfloor and concrete, I don't think you need heated floors.

@nobbie48 would know better but I think a heated floor would be more than 12 watts/sq ft (that is the typical number over wood but some of your heat would go down into slab so I suspect you would need a higher wattage). Capital cost plus operating cost will be far higher than the elevated floor.

I wouldnt be putting spray foam in a basement for lots of reasons. I like roxul below grade as it drains well and doesn't slump when wet. As with the floor, I want air circulation against the concrete. Spray foam stops that. Water will still come through the concrete but the spray foam won't stop it, it will just make it a nightmare to find the source. Spray foam on the rim joist above grade seems like a good idea as getting a decent vapor barrier there is very labour intensive (and normally fails as there are miles of tape and acoustic sealant).
Each watt typically gives you about a 2° temperature rise but a concrete on grade floor expect a bit less.

My ceramic kitchen floor is about 69°F and the rec room about 67°F. A watt or two would equalize them. For barefoot comfort you need about 85° F so 7 or 8 watts would do the job but take forever to come to temperature. If you want to toast buns even higher is needed.

We did a repair on a basement floor, slab on grade and the load was about 5 Watts / SF IIRC and while it wasn't great it tempered the basement feeling.

If you don't want the hassle of electrics the OSB panels with bubble foundation wrap underneath helps a lot.

Super high loads have some energy savings options but come with dangers with runaway controls.

1) Modern controls have a maximum temp of 104°F but the sensor wasn't installed correctly.

2) The 120 volt cable was connected to 240 volts, quadrupling the output. It could have reached 50 watts per square foot and taken the floor from an ambient of 70° to 170°. Scald is 140°

3) They didn't pull a permit so IMO ESA made them an example.

A bit of extra heat can save you energy as the floor heats faster. If you only use the space occasionally and decide to watch a movie, flick the switch and in a half hour the floor is losing it's chill. Shut it off towards the end of the movie and enjoy the heat bank. Don't go crazy and fry your feet.

A second item based on not knowing what your basement is like or your intentions but...

I didn't want it to look like a typical basement room with high off the floor windows so faked it not look like we were higher above grade. During the day the actual window size is more apparent but at night the Shoji blinds hide the scam. Forgive the mess. Work in progress shot
023r.jpg
 
Underpinning or keeping existing height? Do you have an inch or more to lose if you wanted to install heat? How much time do you plan on spending down there?

I like elevated basement floors to give the inevitable leak a way to run to a drain without destroying everything. Some air circulation below the floor keeps the mold away. Something like dry core as a concept but there are multiple ways to do it. I did it before at a buddies house using rolls of foundation waterproofing with plywood on top pinned down to the concrete. My old house had plywood on 2x4 runners with some slots through for drainage/air. Once you separate the subfloor and concrete, I don't think you need heated floors.

@nobbie48 would know better but I think a heated floor would be more than 12 watts/sq ft (that is the typical number over wood but some of your heat would go down into slab so I suspect you would need a higher wattage). Capital cost plus operating cost will be far higher than the elevated floor.

I wouldnt be putting spray foam in a basement for lots of reasons. I like roxul below grade as it drains well and doesn't slump when wet. As with the floor, I want air circulation against the concrete. Spray foam stops that. Water will still come through the concrete but the spray foam won't stop it, it will just make it a nightmare to find the source. Spray foam on the rim joist above grade seems like a good idea as getting a decent vapor barrier there is very labour intensive (and normally fails as there are miles of tape and acoustic sealant).
I fill in the joist area with 2x 2” eps. a small bead of spray can foam seals her tight. Simple, and cheap — works as well as spray foam.
 
Try to start the very full dishwasher late last night. Lights look like it's working, but no fill or pump. Fack. Need to repair before bed. Quick google. wth? Pic isn't mine but there are dozens of pics of burned contacts on the door switch. Opened mine up and it's the same (much worse than pic but same idea). Boo Fridgidaire. Just keep cranking out dishwashers that try to light on fire. No need to update parts, this generates a stream of replacement dishwashers.

Fwiw, contacts inside the switch are fine with no marks. No signs of water intrusion inside door. Not sure why the spades burn on all of them. Max draw is less than 10A. They pass all power for dishwasher (except for the tiny amount of power needed for the control panel) through these spades. Not set tight enough from factory?

Temporarily fixed. Need to decide how likely I think a fire is to formulate a longer term plan.
Longer term plan? Bosch. 16 years and counting on ours.
 
Thanks for all the detailed info on the heated floors and spray foam.

We are keeping the same height throughout. Primary reason for the reno is to create a treatment room for my wife w/ separate entrance, so she can treat clients in our house for massage and osteo. And since we are doing this and plan to stay here for a long time, might as well do a full basement and make it the way we want.

The contractor is the same one we used for the house reno earlier. We didn't do heated floors anywhere but had an extra sub-floor put in throughout and I have no complaints with cold feet in the winter. The contractor was mentioning he would be putting in a delta sub-floor in the basement, which he felt would make the floors feel much warmer than they are now.

A coworker and I were talking about all this and he mentioned he had a heated floor in his house (new build) and he loves it.
 
If you got 16yrs out of a dishwasher , that’s good value .


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Bosch are the only decent ones they clean better and last longer. If you have never had one you won't understand the way a dishwasher can clean. Get the series ones not the cheaper one with the plastic floor. Easy to tell look inside if it is a stainless floor you are good to got. I am on my third Bosch usually the first thing that gets installed when we change houses. Never had any issues.

Sent from the future
 

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