I have never owned a fridge with a water dispenser, never saw they need We have very hard water where we live so a water softener and a R/O unit are a must for drinking water I keep the little tank thingy in the basement so the water is always nice and cool. Also are ice makers and water dispensers like one of the biggest issues for insurance claims? Pleb for Life!
FIL uses bagged ice at the cottage (old fridge there). At some point I will get him one of those countertop ice machines. They cost about $100 and make a ton of ice quickly. Good for cottage as they won't run out. When you leave, turn it off and dump it so it doesn't get grungy. If it breaks, buy a new one for far less than fixing a built in. Bonus is it doesn't steal a ton of space from the fridge. It will probably live in the basement and use an ice bucket in the freezer to avoid running down as often.
Picked up a 3 hp compressor from an old-man downsizing. It was plugged in using a 2-15 plug/receptacle. FLA is 14. Aw bollocks. Worked for him for years but code compliance is going to push this to a 30 amp circuit with 10 ga wiring.
He also had a LOTO valve that allowed him to dump the system and lock it open. No idea why. Don't plan on putting that in my setup.
@Mad Mike how did you deal with the timer setup for your compressor. I may throw in a contactor and some low-voltage pushbuttons in the design to turn the compressor on for 30 minutes or so and then cut the power. A manual switch could keep it on when required.
Picked up a 3 hp compressor from an old-man downsizing. It was plugged in using a 2-15 plug/receptacle. FLA is 14. Aw bollocks. Worked for him for years but code compliance is going to push this to a 30 amp circuit with 10 ga wiring.
He also had a LOTO valve that allowed him to dump the system and lock it open. No idea why. Don't plan on putting that in my setup.
@Mad Mike how did you deal with the timer setup for your compressor. I may throw in a contactor and some low-voltage pushbuttons in the design to turn the compressor on for 30 minutes or so and then cut the power. A manual switch could keep it on when required.
Check to see if it can be wired 220v, many 3-5hp compressor motors are dual voltage.
I’ve only seen LOTO on compressors connected to dry sprinklers.
I have a programmable wifi timer that triggers on with a wall switch then counts down (programmable). Not really necessary, just as easy to turn it off.
I recently upgraded to 80gal 15cfm so I have to upgrade the timer too. I also added a $2 PA solenoid to the drain, way easier than reaching under with pliers.
Check to see if it can be wired 220v, many 3-5hp compressor motors are dual voltage.
I’ve only seen LOTO on compressors connected to dry sprinklers.
I have a programmable wifi timer that triggers on with a wall switch then counts down (programmable). Not really necessary, just as easy to turn it off.
I recently upgraded to 80gal 15cfm so I have to upgrade the timer too. I also added a $2 PA solenoid to the drain, way easier than reaching under with pliers.
This is a 220v only motor. 14 amps x1.25 (factor for motor) /0.8 (continuous loading on wire) means I need a circuit of at least 22 amps. NEC (I know, not canadian but still good advise) wants a 3 hp motor to be considered 17 amps and 5 hp 28 amps. If I wanted wiring to be able to take a 5 hp compressor, I would be looking at at least 40 amps rated. That seems excessive. I have some other compressors that I can run in parallel for the rare occasions where I need more volume.
Wifi timer may be simpler than my low voltage solution. Harder to find something affordable, listed and able to handle the load though. I plan on locating the compressor in a difficult to access location well off the floor. Being able to remotely isolate, kill and drain it is worthwhile.
No idea how many cfm this one is. Belt drive Two piston single stage. It will get an oil change before I run it. No air filters in place which is not ideal. At least he did wood not metalwork so it shouldn't be too beat up inside.
This is a 220v only motor. 14 amps x1.25 (factor for motor) /0.8 (continuous loading on wire) means I need a circuit of at least 22 amps. NEC (I know, not canadian but still good advise) wants a 3 hp motor to be considered 17 amps and 5 hp 28 amps. If I wanted wiring to be able to take a 5 hp compressor, I would be looking at at least 40 amps rated. That seems excessive. I have some other compressors that I can run in parallel for the rare occasions where I need more volume.
Wifi timer may be simpler than my low voltage solution. Harder to find something affordable, listed and able to handle the load though. I plan on locating the compressor in a difficult to access location well off the floor. Being able to remotely isolate, kill and drain it is worthwhile.
No idea how many cfm this one is. Belt drive Two piston single stage. It will get an oil change before I run it. No air filters in place which is not ideal. At least he did wood not metalwork so it shouldn't be too beat up inside.
@GreyGhost , many large compressors use disc system on variable weight springs for the intake / exhaust valves. Wood shops are as bad as metal work as the crap builds up and stops the discs from operating properly . I’d figure out some sort of filter going forward .
@GreyGhost , many large compressors use disc system on variable weight springs for the intake / exhaust valves. Wood shops are as bad as metal work as the crap builds up and stops the discs from operating properly . I’d figure out some sort of filter going forward .
I'll add a filter. I am trying to avoid pulling the head to clean out existing gunk. Valves seem similar to Reed valves. Basically check valves. No apparent mechanical operation.
Mad Mike : I recently upgraded to 80gal 15cfm so I have to upgrade the timer too. I also added a $2 PA solenoid to the drain, way easier than reaching under with pliers.
didn’t know these existed, what are they called that I can look up on their website?
Mad Mike : I recently upgraded to 80gal 15cfm so I have to upgrade the timer too. I also added a $2 PA solenoid to the drain, way easier than reaching under with pliers.
didn’t know these existed, what are they called that I can look up on their website?
If you want most of the liquid, the first link should work and is cheap (but requires a 24vac source which you can buy for cheap or steal power off a doorbell or alarm panel). If you want a more thorough purge, the second one will get some mist out and a lot more of the water.
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