The issue would be present even if your framing is dead flat. The long edge of a drywall sheet are factory tapered to accommodate joint thickness but the short ends aren't. Usually you would do a 24"+ wide joint to hide the slight rise due to the thickness. You could probably get away with doing a much smaller + flatter joint this way. The downside I see is you would need to make sure the edges are well supported - you'd run the risk of cracking as the joint is "floating" between the studs instead of each board edge being screwed down. Good idea for a ceiling but not ideal in a high impact area.
There are niche tools that will taper in the short edges -
https://drywalltapertool.com. This is the best solution I've seen.
You can also buy manufactured backer that works the same way as the plywood idea -
::\\ WILCO TOOLS //::
Some guys just lightly bang in the short edges with a drywall hammer once they are screwed to the stud. On high end residential I've seen architects specify 12' to 16' board on certain walls to cut down on short end joints. Can be a real issue on big / long walls with natural light.