Thanks for the offer highly appreciated it. A bit far though.
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Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
How I get a flat drywall ceiling. Note: I haven't tried it with type X.
The top sketch is the way I've seen most do it.
The bottom sketch shows a piece of plywood with thin shims on each edge (Thickness of a Popsicle stick). When the screws are tightened the drywall is pulled up faking a tapered end. It was easy with the old drywall but with the newer stiffer stuff I found slowly tightening the screws a bit at a time each eliminated pull through. I can't speak for type X.
It doesn't matter if you're doing a stucco or popcorn ceiling but for high gloss kitchen it eliminates the hump.
The top sketch is the way I've seen most do it.
The bottom sketch shows a piece of plywood with thin shims on each edge (Thickness of a Popsicle stick). When the screws are tightened the drywall is pulled up faking a tapered end. It was easy with the old drywall but with the newer stiffer stuff I found slowly tightening the screws a bit at a time each eliminated pull through. I can't speak for type X.
It doesn't matter if you're doing a stucco or popcorn ceiling but for high gloss kitchen it eliminates the hump.
Attachments
Interesting. If I was that concerned about a flat ceiling, I wouldn't be attaching to wood. Furring channel perpendicular to wood evens out a lot of the variations that are always present.
The issue would be present even if your framing is dead flat. The long edge of a drywall sheet are factory tapered to accommodate joint thickness but the short ends aren't. Usually you would do a 24"+ wide joint to hide the slight rise due to the thickness. You could probably get away with doing a much smaller + flatter joint this way. The downside I see is you would need to make sure the edges are well supported - you'd run the risk of cracking as the joint is "floating" between the studs instead of each board edge being screwed down. Good idea for a ceiling but not ideal in a high impact area.
There are niche tools that will taper in the short edges - https://drywalltapertool.com. This is the best solution I've seen.
You can also buy manufactured backer that works the same way as the plywood idea - ::\\ WILCO TOOLS //::
Some guys just lightly bang in the short edges with a drywall hammer once they are screwed to the stud. On high end residential I've seen architects specify 12' to 16' board on certain walls to cut down on short end joints. Can be a real issue on big / long walls with natural light.
My kitchen ceiling has been in 30 years and the rec room about 5 and not a sign of problems. The plywood provides the joint support. Walls are different and supports between every stud would be a pain. I run vertical on walls so not an issue for me.
The tool looks like it crushes the edge while the backer does the same as the plywood. On a large job I'd go with the backer but on a small reno there's usually enough scrap ply to do the job.
Crooked joist, crooked ceiling. In a lath and plaster replacement, furring would often be necessary because some old lumber is just nasty. This doesn't get rid of the hills and valleys, just the speed bumps.
sburns
Well-known member
Meh seems like too much work, but interesting concept. I would believe you would just do a 3rd coat of mud really wide and almost cover the entire board to "even" out the look.
sburns
Well-known member
Anybody here have one of those electric keypad door locks for your garage? I have been thinking about adding one to mine. It's detached from the house and sometimes I pop outside and want to get into the garage without carrying keys around. Plus it might be easier with motorcycle gloves on. But not sure if this is a good idea overall?
Deadbolt style or garage door opener style?
For deadbolts, I have emtek, schlage and gatehouse. Gatehouse is power open and close and I hate it but it was cheap. It is on a rarely used door. Emtek and schlage have a knob you turn after code and that is a much better system. The emtek feels nice but isnt worth the premium over schlage.
Overall, I obviously like them. The only door I have that takes a key is the main front door that we literally never use and a code option is not available. I am not entirely sure where those keys even are.
sburns
Well-known member
Opps I should have mentioned the keypad was for the man-door not the garage door itself. I have a button in the garage for that.
I'll look into what you have mentioned anyway, thanks!
Quotation 1 received evidently not only included a new roof but also putting someone's first-born through college. Quotation 2 received is in the ballpark of what I was expecting. Another one was supposed to get back to me today but never called back. Notified the company behind quotation 2 that I'm ready to proceed. They're supposed to get back to me on Monday or Tuesday with next steps to take. They're local, which is good.
Looks like they want to use OwensCorning TruDefinition Duration shingles.
I have a Weiser on the back door. Installed it about 15 years ago when the kids were younger so I didnt have to worry about them losing their key when coming home from school. It stopped working about 2 years ago. Called Weiser, just looking for advice if it was fixable. They asked for a pic to verify the model and 3 days later I had a new one in the mail, no charge. It is the type that you turn the knob after the code.
I have them everywhere. Love them. Just remember to change the batteries regularly.
watch out for the unexpected “oh you need new plywood board sheathing”
Those electronic deadbolts were great when I had live in tenants. One refused to lock the doors so I kept changing the code as I said I felt I needed to as it appears the locking mechanism wasn’t working with the one being used. After being locked out a few times they got the message.
love electronic door locks, I can walk the dog, bike ride, wife can go out and not worry I dont have a key. We have them on garage man door, overhead door, front door. Just the pushbutton type, I do NOT want my door lock linked to my smart phone, because then I have to remember the phone.
I still have a manual override hidden key under a flower pot,
I still have a manual override hidden key under a flower pot,
Lord help you if you need sheathing ply right now, its doubled in price literally in the last 45 days, and shortages are everywhere, mill are booking loads into October. It went up 9% on friday. Everybody is scared to order inventory because it will drop and nobody wants $45 sheathing when the market goes back to $25. What a mess
For the amateur mud slinger, taping a recess is much easier.
Watch out for wear on the keypads. If you use the same numbers continually some will wear and give a strong hint to the code.
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