Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 328 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

nobbie48 said:
Re scaffold/ ladder / zoom boom , a redneck would work off the top of a rented Uhaul van. MOL and Uhaul not impressed
Click to expand...
MOL won’t know until a neighbour calls.

If it wasn’t for my fear of falling off ladders I would do that…but no dice.
 
mimico_polak said:
MOL won’t know until a neighbour calls.

If it wasn’t for my fear of falling off ladders I would do that…but no dice.
Click to expand...
The falling part isn't that bad.
It's the getting up after the fall that is tricky.
 
Wingboy said:
Are we talking about jumping out of planes here?
Click to expand...
No not at all.

You can't jump out of a plane without passing some sort of training etc.

Most people who climb onto a latter never take any training.
 
I patched the roof last summer and it should hold until next year but i want to address the attic ventilation ahead of time. Built in 1960, the old standards are too small. I want to add soffit vents with known areas.

I don't know what is under the aluminum vented soffits and what suggested grills are. HD has 3" plastic ones but I don't know what area they cover. Any suggestions?
 
nobbie48 said:
I patched the roof last summer and it should hold until next year but i want to address the attic ventilation ahead of time. Built in 1960, the old standards are too small. I want to add soffit vents with known areas.

I don't know what is under the aluminum vented soffits and what suggested grills are. HD has 3" plastic ones but I don't know what area they cover. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Installing a linear 3" vent is a lot of work. I am assuming existing wood soffit? What is the insulation/framing like above the soffit? It often impedes airflow with stupid details in that location. What is the plan for top of roof venting? If existing vents are accessible, I would probably measure airflow through them so I had some idea where I was starting from.

FWIW, Current house and previous house has 100% vented aluminum soffit.

Finding flow data for commodities is tough. Vented aluminum is made by lots of manufactirers all competing on price. Most wont bother to test flow and if they do, they may not release the data.
 
GreyGhost said:
Installing a linear 3" vent is a lot of work. I am assuming existing wood soffit? What is the insulation/framing like above the soffit? It often impedes airflow with stupid details in that location. What is the plan for top of roof venting? If existing vents are accessible, I would probably measure airflow through them so I had some idea where I was starting from.

FWIW, Current house and previous house has 100% vented aluminum soffit.

Finding flow data for commodities is tough. Vented aluminum is made by lots of manufactirers all competing on price. Most wont bother to test flow and if they do, they may not release the data.
Click to expand...
The present soffit is vented aluminum over plywood. I have no idea of whether the aluminum soffit installer opened up any vents.

I'm going to put in a couple of 3" round plastic ones and use the holes to scope out what's behind the existing.

A holesaw run in reverse seems to cut the aluminum OK. Then forward for the plywood.

I have to read up on over venting to see what kind of problem it is. Topside vents may wait for the new roof.
 
Most shingle companies have published guideline for cu ft in and cu ft out of ventilation. Helps them with warranty. Most vent manufacturers also publish guidelines , since what the builder install meets the bare minimum and they want to sell you more vents .

Just adding more isn’t always the answer , you want positive upward pressure , which convection current will aid , if unbalanced you don’t get good movement. Whirly bird vents on top are awesome as the suck air .( I used to sell shingles , and vents )


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
 
crankcall said:
Most shingle companies have published guideline for cu ft in and cu ft out of ventilation. Helps them with warranty. Most vent manufacturers also publish guidelines , since what the builder install meets the bare minimum and they want to sell you more vents .

Just adding more isn’t always the answer , you want positive upward pressure , which convection current will aid , if unbalanced you don’t get good movement. Whirly bird vents on top are awesome as the suck air .( I used to sell shingles , and vents )


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
Click to expand...
My roof deck is 1 X 6 spruce with thousands of feet of edge cracks. I don't know what air filtration goes through those cracks compared to plywood or OSB. The air flow through three tab shingles is a total mystery.
 
nobbie48 said:
My roof deck is 1 X 6 spruce with thousands of feet of edge cracks. I don't know what air filtration goes through those cracks compared to plywood or OSB. The air flow through three tab shingles is a total mystery.
Click to expand...
Not much air should be flowing through the deck. You do want decent flow on the bottom of the deck to take away heat and lower the temp of the shingles.
 
If the roof was properly installed airflo through the deck should be almost zero .


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
 
For us, our double brick house doesn't have much in the way of ventilation from the eaves as the rafters go through the brick and the brick goes up to the roof deck. The eaves were originally exposed/open (not enclosed like a modern house) but at some point they were closed in with aluminum. Funny thing is I see houses in the areas with closed in but vented eaves with the same construction, but they still ice damn up because the vented aluminum vents to no where.... Not all double brick do the eaves this way but many do.

One thing we did when we redid the roof is we went with grey shingles. It dramatically reduced the heat load on the roof from the darker (almost black) shingles prior. Notice a big difference in summer (advantage) but also in winter (disadvantage). In theory they should last longer with less heat load on them.
 
backmarkerducati said:
For us, our double brick house doesn't have much in the way of ventilation from the eaves as the rafters go through the brick and the brick goes up to the roof deck. The eaves were originally exposed/open (not enclosed like a modern house) but at some point they were closed in with aluminum. Funny thing is I see houses in the areas with closed in but vented eaves with the same construction, but they still ice damn up because the vented aluminum vents to no where.... Not all double brick do the eaves this way but many do.

One thing we did when we redid the roof is we went with grey shingles. It dramatically reduced the heat load on the roof from the darker (almost black) shingles prior. Notice a big difference in summer (advantage) but also in winter (disadvantage). In theory they should last longer with less heat load on them.
Click to expand...
I did a partial overlay last summer on my black roof. I figure the shingle temperatures were over 170° F. I had second degree burns on my leg from laying on it. I don't know if lighter colour shingles last longer.
 
backmarkerducati said:
For us, our double brick house doesn't have much in the way of ventilation from the eaves as the rafters go through the brick and the brick goes up to the roof deck. The eaves were originally exposed/open (not enclosed like a modern house) but at some point they were closed in with aluminum. Funny thing is I see houses in the areas with closed in but vented eaves with the same construction, but they still ice damn up because the vented aluminum vents to no where.... Not all double brick do the eaves this way but many do.

One thing we did when we redid the roof is we went with grey shingles. It dramatically reduced the heat load on the roof from the darker (almost black) shingles prior. Notice a big difference in summer (advantage) but also in winter (disadvantage). In theory they should last longer with less heat load on them.
Click to expand...
I looked into lighter shingles before we did the last roof. They make specific light colored heat reflective shingles that make a huge difference but I don't know if you can get them in Canada (they are mainly in california). Most of the normal colours were in the same ballpark for absorption and temp. As the roof is quite visible, I went with the colour that looked the best and improved ventilation to try to control the heat.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Back
Top Bottom