Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

[Mad Mike]

FYI Kohler sold a big box stores isn't the same a Kohler sold at bath-kitchen centres or plumbing supply stores. Like many things these days.

Some are the same. The big box stores don't stock the high end stuff, the botique showrooms dont stock the budget lines. Each caters to different clientele.

Both can order whatever model you desire and gave them in 2-3 days.

 

[nobbie48]

Not sure of the brand name used at the time but we bought one of those Costco pro-style Chinese faucets. Lasted about six years and then the hose separated from the body and good luck getting parts to fix it. I rigged it up with a hose clamp until our kitchen reno happens (only option I had other than full replacement). I will not go that route again. The valve was and has been solid (and still works well), the body to hose connection was a joke. For not much more money Costco lists a Kohler Semiprofessional in that same pro-style for what that is worth. Ot just get a good name brand one from somewhere else.

It is just not a place to cheap out IMO. False savings.

i was discussing a pipe heating problem in a residential parking garage and one of the condo directors caught on fast when I mentioned the possibility of a pipe freezing and splitting, flooding the garage.

He, a car salesperson, immediately said "I see three million dollars worth of cars here and it isn't worth taking the risk of scrapping them due to flood damage."

 

[mimico_polak]

I guess the light issue has been taken care of…thanks Costco!

 

[GreyGhost]

I guess the light issue has been taken care of…thanks Costco!

View attachment 59966

What colour temp? 8w led will be pretty but wont be exceedingly bright. Given the style, that's probably not a huge issue. Equivalent to about a 60w incandescent. I just put 3 x 28 watt led into kids play room.

 

[mimico_polak]

What colour temp? 8w led will be pretty but wont be exceedingly bright. Given the style, that's probably not a huge issue. Equivalent to about a 60w incandescent. I just put 3 x 28 watt led into kids play room.

Silly questions by an engineer to a lady that bought it ‘because they’re cute’….

 

[GreyGhost]

Silly questions by an engineer to a lady that bought it ‘because they’re cute’….

Well you still need the answer so you can spend hours trying to find potlights that match.

 

[crankcall]

Did a couple days as a grunt worker helping a welder buddy on a mega estate house in east Oakville , met the lighting designer, he had supervised the interior work and was now placing exterior and perimeter lighting . Lighting designer , matching tones and Color. It’s a thing .


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com

 

[backmarkerducati]

I guess the light issue has been taken care of…thanks Costco!

View attachment 59966

Are they integrated bulbs or regular E26 screw in bulbs (or other changeable bulbs)? When matching light colour/temperature the screw in bulbs will allow you to swap out to the colour you want. When installing matching fixtures there is another advantage to screw in bulbs.... if a bulb fails it can be replaced. If an integrated bulb fails it is a fixture swap and it is unlikely you will find one that matches the others a few years out, so swap them all then or have an oddball one.

 

[backmarkerducati]

I’m aware that many reviews can be bought these days but there were 1400+ 4*+ reviews for this particular faucet. Time will tell. It’s also Costco so back it goes if not satisfied.

I hope you have better luck long term than I did.

Reviews in these cases are not typically for a product owned 5 years they are for recent purchases. Good out of the box vs long term reliability and repair-ability is my question. Of course bad reviews out of the box are a no-go...

BTW a few years out Costco will tell you to contact the "manufacturer". Been there done that. Within the normal two years it is pretty generous though.

 

[mimico_polak]

Are they integrated bulbs or regular E26 screw in bulbs (or other changeable bulbs)? When matching light colour/temperature the screw in bulbs will allow you to swap out to the colour you want. When installing matching fixtures there is another advantage to screw in bulbs.... if a bulb fails it can be replaced. If an integrated bulb fails it is a fixture swap and it is unlikely you will find one that matches the others a few years out, so swap them all then or have an oddball one.

They are changeable bulbs. I don't like the integrated stuff because it needs a full replacement instead of just a bulb.

@GreyGhost the lights come with 2700K bulbs.

 

[GreyGhost]

They are changeable bulbs. I don't like the integrated stuff because it needs a full replacement instead of just a bulb.

@GreyGhost the lights come with 2700K bulbs.

Nice. That should look good against your siding colours. Higher temp may look better if you went more grey. Bulb swaps make your life easier.

 

[mimico_polak]

Nice. That should look good against your siding colours. Higher temp may look better if you went more grey. Bulb swaps make your life easier.

Of course our siding is 4-5 weeks away...it's the nice one lol.

Which is fine...it'll give us ample time to get the whole prepared for the siding with insulation and all that jazz.

 

[mimico_polak]

Not too shabby with my minimal Sketchup skills...

 

[GreyGhost]

Not too shabby with my minimal Sketchup skills...

View attachment 59975


View attachment 59976

Is brick flush with siding or sticking out? Your garage door trim and corner trim needs to die at a visually strong surface. If brick sticks out, it can stop there but if brick is flush, trim needs to go to the ground. Floating trim feels very wrong. You could also run a band of trim board between brick and siding if you want the trim to die above brick. In non-retrofit applications, they normally have a stone or brick lintel for that transition to give a base for trim and a visual separation (and keep some water from running over masonry).

 

[mimico_polak]

Is brick flush with siding or sticking out? Your garage door trim and corner trim needs to die at a visually strong surface. If brick sticks out, it can stop there but if brick is flush, trim needs to go to the ground. Floating trim feels very wrong. You could also run a band of trim board between brick and siding if you want the trim to die above brick. In non-retrofit applications, they normally have a stone or brick lintel for that transition to give a base for trim and a visual separation (and keep some water from running over masonry).

Good comments.

1. Brick would be closer to wall than siding
2. Never considered the trim horizontally
3. Thought about a lintel but not sure yet
4. Brick isn’t going around the whole house. It would go to the gate and then I’d have a 27” high stucco strip from the base of the house
5. In pic 1 we’re not decided if the brick should go between the front facade do the door. Those stairs screw up the flow.

 

[GreyGhost]

Good comments.

1. Brick would be closer to wall than siding
2. Never considered the trim horizontally
3. Thought about a lintel but not sure yet
4. Brick isn’t going around the whole house. It would go to the gate and then I’d have a 27” high stucco strip from the base of the house
5. In pic 1 we’re not decided if the brick should go between the front facade do the door. Those stairs screw up the flow.

With inset brick, trim to ground doesn't really work either.

Not sure how to attach a visually appealing lintel that is almost entirely cantilevered. I guess you could use angle iron against the house and fasten it hanging from your framing to support the cantilever. I don't like that though. Odds are, at somepoint, someone will climb on it and you will have a 200 lb point load at max distance.

I would probably do a horizontal trim board to break up the transition and hide a drip edge to kick the water running down the wall away from the brick.

Not sure how accurate scale is but I wouldn't love the brick returning half way up a step. Brick to door sill makes sense visually. You could transition from that height down to your desired 27" height at the gate as it would be hard for anyone to see both sides. Why 27"? You want the step to be a full board, you don't want a cut at the bottom. That is assuming shiplap as shown. Board and batt is more flexible with step height.

 

[mimico_polak]

Good call @GreyGhost looks much better...

Not sure how to incorporate the trim into the right window...



You can see the transition from brick to stucco...

 

[GreyGhost]

Good call @GreyGhost looks much better...

Not sure how to incorporate the trim into the right window...

View attachment 59982

You can see the transition from brick to stucco...
View attachment 59983

View attachment 59984

Make sure vertical trim rests on horizontal pieces. Trim theoretically represents columns so they need to sit on a surface to look proper. I assume the orientation shown was to ease modelling (as with trim dying at edge of step).

What colour are window frames going to be? How are you dealing with deeper window lintels? You can get away with some above the garage as it isn't so visible but standing at the front door they can look directly down into your LR window treatment. How much space above living room window and below soffit to accommodate trim?

 

[mimico_polak]

Make sure vertical trim rests on horizontal pieces. Trim theoretically represents columns so they need to sit on a surface to look proper. I assume the orientation shown was to ease modelling (as with trim dying at edge of step).

What colour are window frames going to be? How are you dealing with deeper window lintels? You can get away with some above the garage as it isn't so visible but standing at the front door they can look directly down into your LR window treatment. How much space above living room window and below soffit to accommodate trim?

1. Yes, vertical trim will sit on horizontal
2. Window frames will be white (same as trim)
3. Normal flashing just deeper
4. Window guy coming tomorrow to quote new windows. Depending on the price, we may just buy the window ourselves and install with my dad (he said he's got the strength still). Then we will push the windows out a few inches to lessen the offset
5. Zero space above living room window and soffit (same as other windows).

 

[GreyGhost]

1. Yes, vertical trim will sit on horizontal
2. Window frames will be white (same as trim)
3. Normal flashing just deeper
4. Window guy coming tomorrow to quote new windows. Depending on the price, we may just buy the window ourselves and install with my dad (he said he's got the strength still). Then we will push the windows out a few inches to lessen the offset
5. Zero space above living room window and soffit (same as other windows).

I don't know about the JH below the LR window. Trimming that window and having it look decent with no space above isn't easy. If you have some space, you can trick the eye but you don't. Horizontal transitions from brick to JH won't be trivial (Is that JH out 2" from the brick as well?). If JH is out from brick you can trim boxout as corner of garage. Trim dies at lintel. I'm worried about beltline left of door not lining up with belt line below LR window so I don't think I would put trim below window. If I did put trim below window, it would be wider so bottom of window trim matched bottom of belt line. You could probably get away with the thicker trim as a lintel but you would need to copy that detail to garage window as well. Other sides of the house could have normal trim.