Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 317 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

mimico_polak said:
Wow....that's the lowest I've seen it in a while...

View attachment 59874

What's the general GTAM consensus?

Fibreglass or Rockwool insulation for the exterior walls? I'm starting to scour Kijiji for some.

I've got some fibreglass for 2x6 installation up at the cottage, and that may actually cover an entire bedroom, but I'll have to rip off some from it because I'm not planning on using 2x6s due to too much space lost in the room.
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I can't recall where I read it and whether it's true but the report said 6" fiberglass packed into a 4" space was better than 4" in thermal value. I can see the point as the objective is to stop the flow of warm air.

Theoretically the loss from conduction of the compacted fiberglass glass was more than compensated for by the reduction of heat by air circulation.

Does it work? Will it bulge over time?

Decide for yourself. Google has several opinions. This is one.

 
nobbie48 said:
I can't recall where I read it and whether it's true but the report said 6" fiberglass packed into a 4" space was better than 4" in thermal value. I can see the point as the objective is to stop the flow of warm air.

Theoretically the loss from conduction of the compacted fiberglass glass was more than compensated for by the reduction of heat by air circulation.

Does it work? Will it bulge over time?

Decide for yourself. Google has several opinions. This is one.

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It doesn’t work. First off the 6” fibreglass won’t fit into the space regardless how you press it. Then trying to put a drywall sheet against it the screws pop out as the pressure on a 4x8 plywood sheet is too great.

I tried it doing my garage. Ended up installing 2x2s atop the 2x4s to fit the 6” insulation.

My neighbour did 2x6 framing in his house and he said the difference it made is insane.

But I don’t want to lose that much more space. I even considered 2x3 but will stick with 2x4.
 
I thought batts held air and compacting it would detract from the R value.
 
timtune said:
I thought batts held air and compacting it would detract from the R value.
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It does. You shouldn't compress batts insulation as it reduces the R value. The insulation works with a combination of air trapped within the fiberglass / rockwool and if you compress it...you change that density by compressing it.

Should just be placed in b/w the studs, and let to expand out to it's natural form.
 
Hey Guys, curious on your thoughts on a basement reno. (next year project)

I might have to redo 1 room. Both to control dust and moisture leakage. I have block foundation which is not painted, which I believe is causing dust issues and some air/moisture leakage (in the winter which might be why my humidity is so low).

Here's what I am contemplating:
Block wall / paint / 2" Ridge Foam board / 2x4 frame / batt insulation / vapour barrier / drywall.

The paint wouldn't be to control mositure but for dust and apparently is still breathable.
 
sburns said:
Hey Guys, curious on your thoughts on a basement reno. (next year project)

I might have to redo 1 room. Both to control dust and moisture leakage. I have block foundation which is not painted, which I believe is causing dust issues and some air/moisture leakage (in the winter which might be why my humidity is so low).

Here's what I am contemplating:
Block wall / paint / 2" Ridge Foam board / 2x4 frame / batt insulation / vapour barrier / drywall.

The paint wouldn't be to control mositure but for dust and apparently is still breathable.
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I don't like that at all. Rigid foam is a vapour barrier. That means you have insulation trapped between two vapour barriers. I would ditch the foam. I would also ditch the paint as it adds cost with not much benefit imo. Dust can't get through your vapour barrier.
 
sburns said:
Hey Guys, curious on your thoughts on a basement reno. (next year project)

I might have to redo 1 room. Both to control dust and moisture leakage. I have block foundation which is not painted, which I believe is causing dust issues and some air/moisture leakage (in the winter which might be why my humidity is so low).

Here's what I am contemplating:
Block wall / paint / 2" Ridge Foam board / 2x4 frame / batt insulation / vapour barrier / drywall.

The paint wouldn't be to control mositure but for dust and apparently is still breathable.
Click to expand...
My limited experience id get rid of the ridgid foam, or the batt / vapour barrier.

You’re trapping air between the rigid foam and the vapour barrier with your batt soaking it up.

I’d put in the rigid foam, frame it, and drywall it.

Or BATT + Vapour barrier and then drywall it.

Either or, not both.
 
mimico_polak said:
My limited experience id get rid of the ridgid foam, or the batt / vapour barrier.

You’re trapping air between the rigid foam and the vapour barrier with your batt soaking it up.

I’d put in the rigid foam, frame it, and drywall it.

Or BATT + Vapour barrier and then drywall it.

Either or, not both.
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If he wants better thermal performance, use 2x3 spaced out from the block wall (connected to floor and floor joists but not tied to wall). Semi-rigid between block and studs (I like roxul for this as you may have moisture). Then normal batt insulation in stud cavities. Gives you 4" of insulation and breaks the thermal path between block and studs. I don't see the need for 6" insulation in a basement. Most have zero over half the wall.
 
@oioioi any references you can point me to in order to get some info / products to run some physical access points around the house?

Looking at CAT6 so while I have the walls apart, I may just run the cable throughout the house, and then deal with it when I get the living room / dining room upgrades.
 
mimico_polak said:
My limited experience id get rid of the ridgid foam, or the batt / vapour barrier.

You’re trapping air between the rigid foam and the vapour barrier with your batt soaking it up.

I’d put in the rigid foam, frame it, and drywall it.

Or BATT + Vapour barrier and then drywall it.

Either or, not both.
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See there is where things become foggy, some say the 2" ridge IS or can be like a vapour barrier, but then other say it's not completely and you still need a vapour barrier at the drywall because of the cold climate we are in. I've even seen it suggested the vapour barrier is placed onto the ridge foam, then the stud wall then dry wall.
 
mimico_polak said:
@oioioi any references you can point me to in order to get some info / products to run some physical access points around the house?

Looking at CAT6 so while I have the walls apart, I may just run the cable throughout the house, and then deal with it when I get the living room / dining room upgrades.
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You can get all that from Home Depot, and the lenovo wall plate you snap in the end points. You'll probably need 1000ft case, Amazon might be ok, there are hardware shops in Markham which sell networking wiring (around steels and woodbine).
 
sburns said:
See there is where things become foggy, some say the 2" ridge IS or can be like a vapour barrier, but then other say it's not completely and you still need a vapour barrier at the drywall because of the cold climate we are in. I've even seen it suggested the vapour barrier is placed onto the ridge foam, then the stud wall then dry wall.
Click to expand...
Why deal with the hassle? If you ditch the foam you know where the vapour barrier is. If you do foam, then vapour barrier, you don't want insulation in the stud cavity.
 
GreyGhost said:
If he wants better thermal performance, use 2x3 spaced out from the block wall (connected to floor and floor joists but not tied to wall). Semi-rigid between block and studs (I like roxul for this as you may have moisture). Then normal batt insulation in stud cavities. Gives you 4" of insulation and breaks the thermal path between block and studs. I don't see the need for 6" insulation in a basement. Most have zero over half the wall.
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Hmm i don't understand this fully, especially the spaced out part? :unsure:
 
GreyGhost said:
Why deal with the hassle? If you ditch the foam you know where the vapour barrier is. If you do foam, then vapour barrier, you don't want insulation in the stud cavity.
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It adds extra insulation to bring up the R value.
From I gather you are saying.
Foam boards / stud wall / no batt / vapour barrier / drywall.
So stud wall is to hold the drywall and have a air gap?
 
sburns said:
Hmm i don't understand this fully, especially the spaced out part? :unsure:
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Block/1" air space/2x3 studs/vapour barrier/drywall.

Put insulation in the 1" air space and in the stud cavities. Gives you a 4" thick wall with cheaper lumber and better insulation. It is obviously not load bearing and while being slightly less rigid than if it was tied to the block, it will be entirely acceptable.
 
GreyGhost said:
@mimico_polak Here's an alternative (dumb) solution to your ugly brick problem.

fb.watch

Staining my brick work | A little bit of stain can go a long way 😮🧱 | By LADbible | Facebook

A little bit of stain can go a long way 😮🧱
fb.watch fb.watch
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Interesting! I believe @backmarkerducati or someone else mentioned this as a possibility.

My wife isn't convinced, and if I screw this up...it would be very very bad!

But I'm sure I have some out of the way brick that it can be tested on (underneath the deck, and within the shed).

My brick is fairly light so should take stain easily.
 
My buddy that did his (that has the brick deteriorating due to the change in "dew point") did closed cell spray foam. House was gutted, the 2X walls were built but spaced out from the double brick, rewire, bring in spray foam guys to do between the 2X and inner brick (the spaced out part) and in the 2X cavities, drywall. The closed cell spray foam acts as the vapour barrier. He did this during an old retrofit grant program and all said and done the insulation portion was pretty much paid for in the grant, the grant required different R-values in different places so some was 2X6 other 2X4 (can't remember basement vs above ground) and different again in attic.

This was done on the inside of all exterior walls, basement, above ground. The spray foam was also used in the attic with blown in on top of that to get the final R-value required there. For the attic he pulled the ceiling on the top floor as part of the gut and did put regular vapour barrier up before drywall and the foam was sprayed on top of that--this paid off as he later had to remove some drywall and it was not all glued to the foam!
 
backmarkerducati said:
My buddy that did his (that has the brick deteriorating due to the change in "dew point") did closed cell spray foam. House was gutted, the 2X walls were built but spaced out from the double brick, rewire, bring in spray foam guys to do between the 2X and inner brick (the spaced out part) and in the 2X cavities, drywall. The closed cell spray foam acts as the vapour barrier. He did this during an old retrofit grant program and all said and done the insulation portion was pretty much paid for in the grant, the grant required different R-values in different places so some was 2X6 other 2X4 (can't remember basement vs above ground) and different again in attic.

This was done on the inside of all exterior walls, basement, above ground. The spray foam was also used in the attic with blown in on top of that to get the final R-value required there. For the attic he pulled the ceiling on the top floor as part of the gut and did put regular vapour barrier up before drywall and the foam was sprayed on top of that--this paid off as he later had to remove some drywall and it was not all glued to the foam!
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What was causing the brick deteriorating for him to need to do the closed cell spray foam?

I considered it also, but leaning toward the BATT + Vapour barrier in a 2x4 wall.

I've used the spray foam before in the garage, but not in any of my walls.
 
@sburns , cover entire block wall with scutan sheathing , it’s a coated black building paper . Staple gun at the top and glue next row ( it’s 3ft wide) to the previous row with a 6 “ overlap , let it curl out on floor so the base plate of frame wall sits on it not concrete. Frame wall with your choice of 2x4 and insulate with roxul being careful to fill the cavities above the joists where the sill plate is . 6 mil poly vapour barrier , drywall , done.

Wrap wall and switch boxes with poly before insulation so you can wrap and seal each box of use those plastic box covers from homo depot .

Don’t over engineer a simple basement


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