Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 315 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Allegedly the brute force tool (at least the one I found in a couple minutes of googling) doesn't work on current generations of the lock
 
Don't quote me on this as I do not know the fine print but I was once told that storying paint (maybe only larger amounts) inside your house is against your insurance policy and could void it.

Paint or any other flammable chemicals should be stored in approved metal cabinet.
The idea is that it could be "fuel for the fire" in case of a house fire. Especially in a furnace room where there is already a flame and gas.
Maybe water based paint is safer.

But this is just another case "do as I say and not as I do...."
The only time I've seen that requirement of storing anything in a metal can to prevent fire risk is for pressurized containers (spray pay, oils, or anything else that's flammable).

Last I checked water based paint is not flammable and does not have such a requirement.
 
On removing the existing. Keep in mind there is a high probability based on the age of the house of lead in the old paint and/or asbestos in the plaster. Getting it tested may be a good idea. If you go over top you lose roughly 1.5 inches of floor space BUT be careful here as the foil backing on the existing is a vapour barrier, and it will be on the wrong side....
Yes I considered the risk of asbestos and lead in the paint.

My plan was to rip out everything do the block and start insulation from there. I don't want to risk locking in the current drywall / plaster (especially since Kevin installed a layer of drywall atop the plaster to 'insulate' the house better and didn't want to remove anything).

Plan is to remove, frame with 2x4s and have it done properly. This should help insulate the house nicely, and also allow me to have proper electrical outlets as they will not have the space behind them.
 
Yes I considered the risk of asbestos and lead in the paint.

My plan was to rip out everything do the block and start insulation from there. I don't want to risk locking in the current drywall / plaster (especially since Kevin installed a layer of drywall atop the plaster to 'insulate' the house better and didn't want to remove anything).

Plan is to remove, frame with 2x4s and have it done properly. This should help insulate the house nicely, and also allow me to have proper electrical outlets as they will not have the space behind them.
If there are locations where exterior cameras make sense (for instance above the garage), install cat 5 to those locations. Also, if you want a swanky light-up house address, it's easy to power as part of this project.
 
Ethernet Cable should be run to every possible current or future location of any stationary device that requires internet/network access. PC, printer, Gaming console, TV, IPTV, and POE access point. etc.

As for cameras. Remember a camera cannot see around a corner or a bay window or decorative pillar/column. Most of the time when I see client that want cameras, the client thinks 3-4 will be sufficient and we end up putting in 6-8. And this is not to upsell someone on something they don't need. If you want all angles covered, you may end up with 2 cameras on 1 corner of the house.
 
Ethernet Cable should be run to every possible current or future location of any stationary device that requires internet/network access. PC, printer, Gaming console, TV, IPTV, and POE access point. etc.

As for cameras. Remember a camera cannot see around a corner or a bay window or decorative pillar/column. Most of the time when I see client that want cameras, the client thinks 3-4 will be sufficient and we end up putting in 6-8. And this is not to upsell someone on something they don't need. If you want all angles covered, you may end up with 2 cameras on 1 corner of the house.
For me, avoiding looking like a hells angels clubhouse was more important than perfect camera angles. I tucked cameras that matched soffit colour behind downspouts. Definitely doesn't maximize FOV or resolution on useful areas but fulfilled my main objective. A camera centered on the driveway and mounted reasonably low would be great for catching plates/drivers, etc that pull in. Doesn't work well for my house design though. If you were adding a swanky name plate, you could probably use that to minimize the visual impact of a camera.
 
As I’m not taking out the ceilings (just the walls) I think running cable is a bit trickier than going through above.

But I will def set up cabling to power additional exterior lights and keep power to cameras as future proofing where possible.
 
As I’m not taking out the ceilings (just the walls) I think running cable is a bit trickier than going through above.

But I will def set up cabling to power additional exterior lights and keep power to cameras as future proofing where possible.
As long as you spend some time thinking it through, that's the best you can do. You may decide that no external power/data is required in the locations you can access. That's ok. You just don't want to try a lighting/camera project in the future and swear at past MP for not provisioning.
 
Wife complained that ice maker wasn't making ice. Pulled it apart and defrosted everything. There were some chunks of ice where there probably shouldn't be. Running again now, we'll see if I fixed it tomorrow morning or if I need to do a better job of diagnosis (up from the current zero effort).

EDIT:
Fixed after above effort..
 
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As long as you spend some time thinking it through, that's the best you can do. You may decide that no external power/data is required in the locations you can access. That's ok. You just don't want to try a lighting/camera project in the future and swear at past MP for not provisioning.
We have 6 Wyze cube cams, they are rechargeable wifi. U got tired of bringing the in to recharge, bought some solar USB chargers for >$20 each,they keep the cams fully charged all year.
 
We have 6 Wyze cube cams, they are rechargeable wifi. U got tired of bringing the in to recharge, bought some solar USB chargers for >$20 each,they keep the cams fully charged all year.
I don't trust wifi cameras as a half-prepared thief can easily disable them. Wired cameras with recording in an inaccessible or offsite location is much harder to defeat (still possible with paintballs or spray paint but a hell of a lot harder and it draws much more attention than flipping on a tiny electrical device).

EDIT:
I have one external wireless camera that I will install but it is supplemental not one I rely on. It also records to SD so thieves need to physically access it to remove the evidence. That won't be simple to do.

A friend uses wyze cams and has one pointed at her freeze dryer for remote monitoring. Seems decent. I am annoyed at all the wifi cams forcing you into their own eco-system. I have a few zmodo, a foscam and a care and they all require their own app to view the feeds. The Care sucks, nobody should buy that one (used to monitor kids play room when they were smaller). Foscam and zmodo have been solid other than the ecosystem crap.
 
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Wife complained that ice maker wasn't making ice. Pulled it apart and defrosted everything. There were some chunks of ice where there probably shouldn't be. Running again now, we'll see if I fixed it tomorrow morning or if I need to do a better job of diagnosis (up from the current zero effort).
My ice maker doesn't believe in making ice cubes...only crushed ice.

Annoying as eff, as now I have to open up the ice box...take it out...and put it into my drink like a pleb.
 
We have 6 Wyze cube cams, they are rechargeable wifi. U got tired of bringing the in to recharge, bought some solar USB chargers for >$20 each,they keep the cams fully charged all year.
I have a couple of the Wyze cams and outside of logging out from the servers I've not had issue with them.

If we ever get internet at the cottage those are going to make their way up there.

@GreyGhost not sure how I understand where you said a thief can easily take care of wifi cams...but not hard wired ones?
 
we have Home Secure which was sold to us by Telus when they had a secrurity dept. 8 wired cams capacity and holds 30 days data internally. What I like is I can open the app on my phone and watch the cams. So far its only told me how much snow was in the driveway.

Police have told me cams make almost zero difference to thieves, deters really amatuerish ones, not real thieves. I need it for insurance , hope to never actually need it.
 
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@GreyGhost not sure how I understand where you said a thief can easily take care of wifi cams...but not hard wired ones?
Easy to jam wifi. Buy a little box from china, flip the switch and all nearby wifi is dead. Of course, it's illegal but so is thieving. Here is a link for one. This model only jams up to 2.4 ghz, but not many cameras are operating on 5 ghz. Jammers for up to 5ghz are available but cost more.

As always, ali has pages of them for cheap.

 
Double cylinder is key inside instead of a toggle. More secure as they camt smash the window and flip the toggle (assuming you didnt leave key in inside cylinder). Downside is if you pull out key, you can die in a fire as you cant get the bloody door to open. If someone wants in, they are getting in. Single cylinder for me.

I highly second what ss said. I have code deadbolts on every external door and shed I can. Dont need to carry a key, dont get locked out if my wife goes for a run, kids have their own code that I can change if they tell everybody, people I trust have their own codes, I have a few burner codes that I can give to people if I want to give them access.

FWIW, I have fancy emtek as well as schlage. Emtek feels better but wife prefers schlage and it works more reliably (sometime emtek requires code twice). I have one power bolt and hate it. I strongly prefer code engages knob and I open/close bolt so I can feel if it is not working well. Wieser likes to make power bolts where the motor drives the deadbolt.
We went double after a break-in with the single. The key hangs nearby, convenient for anyone already in the house.

Again, keeps the amateurs out.
 
we have Home Secure which was sold to us by Telus when they had a secrurity dept. 8 wired cams capacity and holds 30 days data internally. What I like is I can open the app on my phone and watch the cams. So far its only told me how much snow was in the driveway.

Police have told me cams make almost zero difference to thieves, deters really amatuerish ones, not real thieves. I need it for insurance , hope to never actually need it.
Imagine access to your home and how long it would take a smash and grab type to dash though grabbing enough stuff to fill a back pack or gym bag. It doesn't take long for them to get drug money for a day or two, all they're interested in. Gone in a few minutes while the alarm company is calling in the police.
 
Imagine access to your home and how long it would take a smash and grab type to dash though grabbing enough stuff to fill a back pack or gym bag. It doesn't take long for them to get drug money for a day or two, all they're interested in. Gone in a few minutes while the alarm company is calling in the police.
My Sister got a New alarm system and she explained it’s not for when she’s not home, but when she is home and people try to break in.

I think it’s more peace of mind to have a panic button in case of emergency.
 
Imagine access to your home and how long it would take a smash and grab type to dash though grabbing enough stuff to fill a back pack or gym bag. It doesn't take long for them to get drug money for a day or two, all they're interested in. Gone in a few minutes while the alarm company is calling in the police.
While you are mostly correct, some are a little smarter. Grab backpack number one and then hangout a ways away to see if help shows up. If nothing happens, go back for the cars and safes. You don't want bad guys having unlimited time in your house.

EDIT:
FWIW, most of the alarm calls the police respond too are system malfunctions. One hit on dining room motion with no glass break or door or window opening is not a burglary, it is probably a plant or pet. Police respond to those but rarely find anything. On the very rare occasions where there is a cohesive chain of sensors (eg glass break, door open, dining motion, bed motion) and especially if there are cameras with that info being passed to police (eg two guys wearing masks in garage), they send lots of cops fast. If you get lucky, dirtbags get arrested on site and you can get most of your stuff back from the cops in six months (minus whatever cops stole and it could be more than six months as they dgaf).
 

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