I've considered it...but the reviews of the RIDGID unit are not favourable.
I'll stick with the manual option.
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Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
I'll stick with the manual option.
Same. Our 2yr old home has lots of spots now showing up with this winters dryness that I'll have to touch up in the Spring.
I picked up a nice set of used PSB speakers for peanuts on the weekend. 6 speakers plus sub and installed them in the garage as I like good audio no matter where I'm at. They sound great.
I have the Ryobi and some manuals. Both work but the power one is smoother if you can balance the speed of the gun to the amount of caulk coming out.
Releasing the trigger on the power one causes it to back off for a split second and a bigger restart adjustment is needed than with a manual. It can be a bit messy if you have to reposition yourself.
Caulking is so simple an idiot can do it......if you want the job to look like an idiot did it. There is a learning curve and different caulks have different tooling characteristics. The one I liked was good for just about everything but the chemical odours lasted for months.
So you are calling me a idiot mine always looks like a drunken monkey did it.
Sent from the future
My finished product looks good but I tend to get as much caulking on the gun as I do on the job, don't get me started with automotive seam sealer! My buddy made me buy him a new caulking gun after the last job with that stuff.
daught
Well-known member
I haven't done finish caulking with it. Having adjustable steady speed is like like driving an auto. It's easy to overshoot. With the manual caulk gun it's probably easier to get a nice finish if you are good at balancing speed and trigger pressure. Manual caulk gun gives more control. I wouldn't spend the money for the battery gun, but I got it dirt cheap. It feels very sturdy.
I need to get the backsplash done asap. It's only one row. Buddy said to just use gorilla glue and my new caulk gun. Intriguing. Anyone see an issue with this?
The backsplash my SO chose is natural stone. The package says it has to be sealed every 3 months. How serious is this? Chances are it will get sealed max once a year.
I need to get the backsplash done asap. It's only one row. Buddy said to just use gorilla glue and my new caulk gun. Intriguing. Anyone see an issue with this?
The backsplash my SO chose is natural stone. The package says it has to be sealed every 3 months. How serious is this? Chances are it will get sealed max once a year.
Talked to my cousin that installs granite for a living...
First you need to know what kind of stone as each one is different, but as @crankcall mentioned checked the instructions.
best way...
- pour some clear water onto a small section
- if the water soaks in and the stone discolours, it means that it's not sealed and time to seal it
- if the water stays on the surface...stone is still sealed and doesn't require anything to be done
He basically said natural stone doesn't need much sealant. But as before...each stone is different so instructions are best.
A friend's marble bathroom floor was getting complaints from his wife. It turns out his aim isn't all that good and the floor was stained with no remedy.
So what bike is going to fill your newfound space?
daught
Well-known member
Absolutely, I will seal it after installation. It's just that the package says every three months. That's ridiculous, and I know it will not happen. What sealer do you use on your floors?
The tiles are marable. I took a look at some offcuts that I sprayed with water last night and left with water on them all night. They don't look any different, and the tiles don't seem to soak up water.
That's helpful, thanks mp. Thankfully our counters are full of flecks so it hides many issues but I know they haven't been sealed for at least four years.
As for the backsplash, it rarely gets contacted, I would be shocked if sealing was required so often. For a soft rock on an often used section of countertop or a surface with few variations in it, I could see a more aggressive sealing program coming into play to avoid a mess.
Send me a photo of your countertop and I’ll ask my cousins.
They are literally in the business of measuring, installing and maintaining granite.
marble is soft and porous , it will stain maybe just not right away , but it will. I use a clear mop on sealer that I buy at the tile store that is suitable for natural slate tile , which is what i have. Its packaged by Mapei , which makes a lot of tile and stone accessories, I dont expect its anything special just what the store recommened. Reseal is based on traffic for the slate, I just follow the bottle .
AllistonGT
Well-known member
We also have slate. Backsplash and floor. Sealer goes on easy. Come to think of it I've neglected resealing for way to long.
Waiting for a quote on the siding….guy said Hardie is 2.5X the cost of vinyl.
‘You want to come to see the house tomorrow?’
‘Nah already got the measurements from the internet after I found your house and measured it out’
‘I’d like it with insulation’
‘Gonna be more expensive’
‘I know’
‘You want to come to see the house tomorrow?’
‘Nah already got the measurements from the internet after I found your house and measured it out’
‘I’d like it with insulation’
‘Gonna be more expensive’
‘I know’
matt365
Well-known member
Maibec, or Hardie are way nicer than vinyl.
Chip out those loose mortar joints and pack it full of type-s, then parge the worst of it.
Might be better to forego the foam board. Manufacturer might want an air gap for the siding.
Insulate from inside at a later date. Strip, strap and sprayfoam the solid masonry walls.
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