My laminate counter is 30+ years old and still solid around the sink. When I did the cutout I gave the area two coats of varnish. Anything helps. I've seen contact cement used.
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Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
A buddy is just outside of PS. Paid a stupid price for a permit to replace a deck railing.
If I was 1km further east I would been considered Muskoka instead of Parry sound and my permit and development fees would have been about double . The other municipalities are catching on to found money from the Tarana folks
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Ah missed the particle board comment. Then yes, multi-tool is the way to go. Mine's always ready to be used.
As for work done w/o permits...there's a new owner up the street who seems to have a LOT of concrete block laying around in the garage (which is closed most of the time). I assume they're doing some major reno without a permit there.
Poor people don't move to those areas, so the municipalities want their share also. Property and land transfer taxes are never enough, so they'll hose you for everything they can.
My first thought was thicker glass but you are already pretty thick. A vertical glass wall in the centre of the shelves could work. Cuts the span in half. Ideally out to the front edge for full support but you might want to leave it 4" short of the front so you can put a bottle in front of it. One partition from counter to shelf, one from shelf to shelf. Hopefully someone has a more elegant solution but this one is strong and not hideous. I dont like big glass shelves with hundreds or thousands in stuff on them. They look nice but they dont give enough warning before they explode.
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It's hard to beat the open look but glass or plexi columns between the shelves would reduce the spans.
Aesthetically ????
I was at the LCBO a year ago and a staff member hadn't installed a shelf correctly. One end popped loose and dumped a load of Blue Sapphire Gin on the floor. It really smelled nice and the floor was really clean.
Complaint from some aquantences is the billionaires are pushing the millionaires off the big Musoka lakes. I do see families having to take a shared ownership deal to keep old family cottages , the taxes are a bit much
The upside to craziness is renting it out for a few weeks should cover the taxes. A Youtube star bought a waterfront home in barrie and was planning on renting it out for >$30k a week. They decided to move in instead which made their neighbours happy. People paying that much to rent would be inconsiderate asshats.
Yeah I’m really not digging the thought of a glass/plexi support in the middle though. I was thinking somewhat of a thin metal or two bar that would go underneath the length of the shelves but haven’t found anything.
The upper liquor shelf doesn’t bow as much because half the bottles are only half full
The upper liquor shelf doesn’t bow as much because half the bottles are only half full
A strip won't do much unless it increases the thickness of the shelf subtantially. Even if you came up with a system to tension the crap out of the strip, putting weight in the centre would make it sag. You could do the countertop trick and laminate (with adhesive) a second piece of glass a few inches deep (along shelf plane) to the bottom edge of the shelf and that would stiffen it up a lot (almost double stiffness) but it also doubles the visual thickness of the shelf.Yeah I’m really not digging the thought of a glass/plexi support in the middle though. I was thinking somewhat of a thin metal or two bar that would go underneath the length of the shelves but haven’t found anything.
The upper liquor shelf doesn’t bow as much because half the bottles are only half full
Another option that works but you won't like is a cable hanging down from the ceiling with two clips to hold the front center of the shelves.
MP is that your house? The brick is spalling, penetrated by water that then freezes (expands) and spalls the brick. Your house is also double brick (brick is structural) and you can tell by the sideways bricks every six rows in the pic that tie into the inner layer of bricks (likely cinder block in your case), it is not a brick veneer like a modern house. There could have been a moisture problem here at some point that lasted years like no eve's trough, repeated piled snow, etc. Maybe ongoing (bad) or it just needs some re-pointing and other work as the moisture problem is gone. Can you see some brick dust on the ground in spring or do you see the damage progressing?
Insulating the inside can also cause this as you change the dew point of the brick and it cannot dry itself out (retains more water). It will make it worse if the cuase is not fixed. If this was my house and I was insulating I would be doing it from the outside, specially if I see any progression in gamage. I would re-point bad areas before covering.
Given the strange band, I wonder if one skid of bricks was dodgy. Bricks above and below appear to have a lot less damage. For most water/environmental damage, I would expect it to get worse as you move down as it gets more exposed.
Yes that is my house. This is the only area where this damage is apparent, nowhere else is it visible and the rest of the brick and mortar seems to be fine, with a few small cracks in the mortar around the entire house (I checked a while ago) from settlement I assume over the last 70 years.
1. I can't say I've ever seen brick dust at any point in time, however grey brick onto a grey concrete pad...hard to see
2. I think there was a porch / deck of some sort in the front which I believe may have contributed to this, and the damage is very localized
3. I thought insulating from the inside wouldn't affect the brick drying up toward the outside
4. Does the installation of hard insulation, would this not prevent the brick drying out more than the insulation on the inside?
4. Treating outside stops almost all water from getting to brick and brick runs warmer than now. Treating inside doesnt change the water getting to brick and brick runs cooler. Both of the above are during heating season when water damage normally occurs.
Number 2 could be the reason. Kevin may have left snow piled against the house on the previous deck and that is why it is localized like that and at that level.
On 3, double brick always lets some heat leak into the brick from the inside, name of the game is thermal mass. When you decrease that transfer you will get lower brick temps, more freezing, lower brick life. On newer homes with what is basically a brick veneer (not structural) it is modern brick that is sealed better. On a 70 year old house it will be a toss-up on how much water penetrates the brick. My buddy went all the way to new modern R factors with spray foam on a 40s house, his brick is a total mess now 10 years+ later, red dust all over... It will all depend on how much the insulation is changing the heat transfer, how water hits the brick, the condition and material of the brick.
On 4, insulating on the outside prevents the brick from ever freezing or getting wet. As an added bonus the masonry is now inside the home and all that thermal mass is inside the home which does not add much to "R-factor" but still adds heating benefits. Best of all worlds, except the outside is no longer visible brick.
Time to crack open the Thermal Dynamics text books....
Interesting, thanks for that @backmarkerducati ... I actually think I have a Thermodynamics textbook here somewhere from my univ days. But I may have burned it in a fit of rage as I didn't like that course much.
The insulation of the exterior is the simpler solution (except when @GreyGhost threw in the house wrap requirement (?)) compared to the internal insulation.
Currently waiting on word about a new job, and then I'll know better where I stand financially, but I'll be reaching out to some contractors soon.
If it's going to cost me 10k in materials to do the work...but $20k for a contractor to do it...may just not be worth doing it myself.
However...2 years ago I got quotes for stucco that ranged from 17-32k. I can only imagine what those rates are today.
EDIT: And yes...it's cinderblock behind the brick. Found out during the garage insulation time, and also during the installation of a wall mount for the TV. Which is also when I realized I have zero insulation in the walls.
The insulation of the exterior is the simpler solution (except when @GreyGhost threw in the house wrap requirement (?)) compared to the internal insulation.
Currently waiting on word about a new job, and then I'll know better where I stand financially, but I'll be reaching out to some contractors soon.
If it's going to cost me 10k in materials to do the work...but $20k for a contractor to do it...may just not be worth doing it myself.
However...2 years ago I got quotes for stucco that ranged from 17-32k. I can only imagine what those rates are today.
EDIT: And yes...it's cinderblock behind the brick. Found out during the garage insulation time, and also during the installation of a wall mount for the TV. Which is also when I realized I have zero insulation in the walls.
These are the options I'm considering for the exterior....slow day at work today as lots of people still away.
Concern with Option #2 is that there is no insulation b/w the wood and the brick so you lose some of the insulating factor in a lot of areas.
Concern with Option #2 is that there is no insulation b/w the wood and the brick so you lose some of the insulating factor in a lot of areas.
The third option is a hybrid. Use some wood right to brick to have a rock solid surface to fasten to and then strap it to get the spacing required. Put the studs every four feet and strapping every 16". That system lets you put the housewrap/flashing on easily as that can go over the studs. Once the air barrier is complete, add the strapping and siding.
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I have. Wife isn't down and I can't afford it.
Once my MIL leaves us (hopefully in good health) we have the extra bedroom we require. As it stands, the girls are bunking in a single room for the foreseeable future.
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