A while back we were talking about bidets, and while I don't have any immediate plans to buy one (so much $$$), I've just ripped the countertop off my bathroom vanity, so now is the time to add a plug for future bidet use. Luckily I was able to snake a wire from the electrical box into a hole in the side of the vanity relatively easily. To get to the other side of the vanity I'm using an 8ft run of liquid tight, for no other reason than it looks the best and gives off a waterproof vibe.
Need more 14-2 hence its only partially assembled.
If there was a way to take off that brick and replace it or refinish it to a nicer look I’d consider it. I’m not aware of any way to renew brick. And I’m not painting it.
I have no idea of cost but shaving 1/2" off the lower offended parts and applying a thin fake stone might work. IIRC someone in the hood did it. I'm not sure if it was needed or just a tart up. It theoretically makes it look like a stone foundation.
Side splits are mid century so a purist wouldn't approve.
I'll check with the resident neighbourhood watch that seems to notice such things.
I have no idea of cost but shaving 1/2" off the lower offended parts and applying a thin fake stone might work. IIRC someone in the hood did it. I'm not sure if it was needed or just a tart up. It theoretically makes it look like a stone foundation.
Side splits are mid century so a purist wouldn't approve.
I'll check with the resident neighbourhood watch that seems to notice such things.
One of the things we'd like to do at some point is put in some type of overhand / cover at the front entrance for people to walk in under. But that requires permits and is a much larger project outside of throwing in some 4x4 or 6x6 and connecting to the house. A mud room would be ideal, but yet again...that's a much larger endeavour.
I really need to figure out how complex drawings / sketches need to be to Peel Region as I know what I want, I know how to build it, but not sure if they'll need a PENG stamp to approve (I'm a PENG but wouldn't stamp my own designs - or anyone else's).
One of the things we'd like to do at some point is put in some type of overhand / cover at the front entrance for people to walk in under. But that requires permits and is a much larger project outside of throwing in some 4x4 or 6x6 and connecting to the house. A mud room would be ideal, but yet again...that's a much larger endeavour.
I really need to figure out how complex drawings / sketches need to be to Peel Region as I know what I want, I know how to build it, but not sure if they'll need a PENG stamp to approve (I'm a PENG but wouldn't stamp my own designs - or anyone else's).
Ten years ago my daughter in Hamilton was having her porch partially rebuilt, the columns and deck parts. An exact copy of what was built 90 years earlier.
The city wanted engineered drawings and a new survey, adding about $3000 to the costs. However if the homeowner, not the contractor, did the drawing the engineers stamp wasn't needed. Fortunately her next door neighbour had done a recent survey and there was enough information to avoid that cost as well.
$10,000 job + $4000 in permits, right. Mississauga may differ.
Your entry is a bit trickier than ours but both have aesthetic issues.
A front sun room could be nice for yours but $$$$$$. Again, it may be hard to blend into the mid-century side split.
I've often wondered if a local college would entertain the thought of a competition for their students to design something like that. You offer a couple of hundred dollar prize for the best and get dozens of different ideas. Pick the best or a mixture of ideas. You'd have to supply base building drawings or pictures or your place could end up swarmed with budding architects.
I assume if you stamp the drawings, Kevin moves back in and does something stupid you're on the hook forever because you didn't allow for idiots.
we walk the neighbourhood and look at what the wife calls "remuddling" . Perfectly drawn and balanced houses with dormers added that dont fit the scale, 2nd floors added where the run the new joists out past the wall plates and give the house that belted look. And the addition where they thought the 50s bungalow would be neat with a swiss miss gingerbread trim installed .
An actual architect might be cheap in the long game.
Hey, going back to my countertop stove cutout, you mentioned sealing the edges well. I will apply a good bead of silicone between the cooktop and counter face, but is there a product and technique to seal the wood below the counter top?
Hey, going back to my countertop stove cutout, you mentioned sealing the edges well. I will apply a good bead of silicone between the cooktop and counter face, but is there a product and technique to seal the wood below the counter top?
Since it isnt visible, I would use scrap. The tail end of a can of paint/varnish/etc with at least a few coats so any incidental water runs off instead of soaking in.
One of the things we'd like to do at some point is put in some type of overhand / cover at the front entrance for people to walk in under. But that requires permits and is a much larger project outside of throwing in some 4x4 or 6x6 and connecting to the house. A mud room would be ideal, but yet again...that's a much larger endeavour.
I really need to figure out how complex drawings / sketches need to be to Peel Region as I know what I want, I know how to build it, but not sure if they'll need a PENG stamp to approve (I'm a PENG but wouldn't stamp my own designs - or anyone else's).
I wont show the back because I don't think how I got the liquid tight into the PVC box meets code, but I got it done. What a pain in the ass cutting in that hole was...
I wont show the back because I don't think how I got the liquid tight into the PVC box meets code, but I got it done. What a pain in the ass cutting in that hole was...
we walk the neighbourhood and look at what the wife calls "remuddling" . Perfectly drawn and balanced houses with dormers added that dont fit the scale, 2nd floors added where the run the new joists out past the wall plates and give the house that belted look. And the addition where they thought the 50s bungalow would be neat with a swiss miss gingerbread trim installed .
An actual architect might be cheap in the long game.
Finally wrapped up under cabinet lighting swap. Swapped transformer for led driver, completed wiring connections from existing romex to strip in mini junction boxes, drew up and printed some strip light supports as they dont seem to be available for high density strips, screwed a support in every ~12" so I dont rely on the adhesive that always fails. Looks ok. Slight miss on colour temp (closer to 3000k than the 2700k that I wanted).
Edit:
Changed my mind. Job not done yet. I mounted the strips towards the front but the light cutoff is sharper than I want. I'll add another strip at half depth. That also means I'll need to add a dimmer as it will be too bright. I used a dimmable driver though so that not a big deal. I need to print a few dozen more clips.
@48Connor , go buy yourself an oscillating multi tool , everyone makes one, doing that box cutout would be 3mins and easy , can even cut flush with the wall , you’ll wonder how you went through life without one .
Roof trusses sure are fast and easy and come engineered, and I agree outdoor projects just passed fairly simply , but as soon as it’s attached to the house it’s a bit different .
Two points , the municipal building dept need to look at stuff , because that’s thier job. The building inspector isn’t being mean, they have yrs of looking at stuff that failed and they don’t want yours to fail. A gal in our circle is a building inspector, she tells constantly of drawings that don’t match what’s being built or what was requested . Construction framing that’s just not safe and footings for decks where 18” was as deep as anyone wanted to go. They are actually pretty good people if you let them help you .
I wont show the back because I don't think how I got the liquid tight into the PVC box meets code, but I got it done. What a pain in the ass cutting in that hole was...
....
Two points , the municipal building dept need to look at stuff , because that’s thier job. The building inspector isn’t being mean, they have yrs of looking at stuff that failed and they don’t want yours to fail. A gal in our circle is a building inspector, she tells constantly of drawings that don’t match what’s being built or what was requested . Construction framing that’s just not safe and footings for decks where 18” was as deep as anyone wanted to go. They are actually pretty good people if you let them help you .
Agree with most. I usually get permits for the stuff I do, but occasionally I wing it and take my chances.
I've dealt with building dept's that are helpful and reasonable - others that are nothing but a pain in the ass at every step.
I had to do a big repair last year to a block foundation wall that was frost damaged (tipped). I filled out a permit application, and with the help of the building dept guy, all he wanted was a sketch of the repair which I did on the back of the application. APPROVED! He gave me a few tips that locals use to prevent the problem from recurring. I've done a few repairs that would cost thousands in structural engineering fees had they been in the GTA, the fellas up north write on the plans "add a ribbon board here" APPROVED!
I have never enjoyed working with a building dept in the GTA.
Options to better support these tempered glass shelves? The glass company that made the shelves supplied the push-in support pins and said each shelf was good for 200lbs with them. They bowed like crazy so I added a centre support but now the shelf bows in the middle front and takes weight off the rear end pins.
@mimico , that’s a drywall cutout tool , he’s cutting into a particle board vanity side gable . Oscillating multi tool , everyone should own it , you’ll invent jobs for it .
I did all kinds of stuff without permits , I’m now hearing some stories about real estate deals getting tanked when somebody does due diligence and their is no paper trail on a remodel . All interior work so nobody sees .
This will seem long winded . Our last ( I pray) cottage was a new build where an existing log cabin sat. If we move the log cabin , our new setback from the lake is 200ft . Build around tbe existing log cabin that’s ok. Wanted a 2 story garage so we could get a backhoe indoors for security during construction. Nope 2 story garage not allowed . 2 story boat house , no problem . Asked about can I build a 2 story barn , not a garage . Holy cow never say agriculture next to a lake . Set back on a barn is something like a kilometre. This was parry sound district, they were pretty good to deal with but the bylaws appeared whacky . Generally bylaws get created as a reaction to a problem, I’m guessing years of problems gave them some interesting rules .
we walk the neighbourhood and look at what the wife calls "remuddling" . Perfectly drawn and balanced houses with dormers added that dont fit the scale, 2nd floors added where the run the new joists out past the wall plates and give the house that belted look. And the addition where they thought the 50s bungalow would be neat with a swiss miss gingerbread trim installed .
An actual architect might be cheap in the long game.
Options to better support these tempered glass shelves? The glass company that made the shelves supplied the push-in support pins and said each shelf was good for 200lbs with them. They bowed like crazy so I added a centre support but now the shelf bows in the middle front and takes weight off the rear end pins.
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My first thought was thicker glass but you are already pretty thick. A vertical glass wall in the centre of the shelves could work. Cuts the span in half. Ideally out to the front edge for full support but you might want to leave it 4" short of the front so you can put a bottle in front of it. One partition from counter to shelf, one from shelf to shelf. Hopefully someone has a more elegant solution but this one is strong and not hideous. I dont like big glass shelves with hundreds or thousands in stuff on them. They look nice but they dont give enough warning before they explode.
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