Hope it wasn't Holmes.
|
|
|
Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
The Holmes crew , Sarah Richardson, Bhaumler and the rest have a great angle going , buy the property as part of your production company, get tons of free stuff comp’d, sell the TV show , pay everyone…… and don’t make any profit! …. And then build a cottage , sell the show , buy it from your production company , and there is still no profit .
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
AllistonGT
Well-known member
One of those HGTV "stars" lol (I won't say who) contacted us for a free kitchen and bathroom cabinets for a mention on the show. We laughed.
Friend had her bedroom "renovated" for a show. The went in a week early and painted the room this hideous purple. Most of the fixes aside from another coat of paint, were very expensive accessories, that they tried to sell to her. It'd be even more interesting if they'd gotten them for free.One of those HGTV "stars" lol (I won't say who) contacted us for a free kitchen and bathroom cabinets for a mention on the show. We laughed.
Any tips on staining wood? I have a countertop in the pantry and the tops of some built-ins to stain and I've never stained anything before (well on purpose anyways).
Got any offcuts so you can see what the end result will be like first?
We refinished some furniture and stained some tables before. Only advice is prepare the surface very well and don’t overload the stain. Even and light is what you want for the coats.
Don’t pour the stain directly on the wood. Take a rag, dab into stain, and then go over the surface. Dry. Repeat until you get the shade you want.
Test on underside or similar wood first to make sure you like the results.
EDIT: and lightly sand in b/w coats of stain.
Last edited:
There are many types of stain on the market , pick a Color you like and READ the directions on the can you buy . Then do that .
In your panty area you will want a top coat to stop wear , the top coat will change the Color , add depth and usually darken it a bit .
I have started using Rubio mono coat , it’s a two part system , mix catalyst in coating and you get Color and topcoat in one can , dries in minutes not days and is almost idiot proof . It is also stupidly expensive , half beer can size is $100 . But time is money . Used on site by many professionals, since they are in and out very quickly .
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
In your panty area you will want a top coat to stop wear , the top coat will change the Color , add depth and usually darken it a bit .
I have started using Rubio mono coat , it’s a two part system , mix catalyst in coating and you get Color and topcoat in one can , dries in minutes not days and is almost idiot proof . It is also stupidly expensive , half beer can size is $100 . But time is money . Used on site by many professionals, since they are in and out very quickly .
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
Watch what kind of rag you use. Non absorbent cloths don't do as well. Cotton wife beaters work best for me.
Also tuck in the loose ends of the rag so the applying surface of the rag ball doesn't have wrinkles or creases.
Wear gloves unless you want to partially change your ethnicity.
Oil base stains tend to be more forgiving. God doesn't like my language when I use acrylics.
- Will the counter be in direct contact with food preparation (like a kitchen butcher block)? If so a food safe coating will be better, like mineral, tung, etc. oil. But it will not change to colour like you want. Reapply once in a while, knife cuts etc. can left or sanded out before the next application.
- Any "natural" oil finish (like tung, linseed, etc.) that says boiled has other "drying/thinners" stuff in it (I would not consider it food safe).
- If they are maple (or some other food safe woods) counters they may not take typical oil stain all that well as the pours/grain are very small/tight, it is what also helps to make them food safe woods. For maple my go to for "colour" is aniline dye not stain, not food safe BTW.
- For the top coat assuming not for direct food prep... I usually use a poly like "varathane" or other brand names of the same sort. Oil based will give whatever stain etc. a deeper colour (it is yellow/golden when dry), on bare maple it will be yellow. For oil poly I mix with thinner (50%) and wipe it on with a lint free cloth, way better end result. Water based is really just clear. The finish will not be good for any food prep and will scratch up if a knife is used on it.
- Like others pointed out a test piece is a good idea. Oil based stains I also wipe on by dipping a lint free rag in the stain and wipe it on--more control this way.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I'm crazy about level, plumb and flush on doors, cabinets, frames, tvs, mirrors...
When I lived in California I had to touch every picture frame and mirror in the house almost daily due to the subtle sisemic buzz.
I can't stand cover screws. Mine are middle gone, where I have them they are all vertically aligned.
My roofers finished up finally yesterday after wks of rain delay, it’s just under 10k which brings me zero joy . Who likes to look at the roof . Whole crew were Albanian Canadians , been here between 3 and 10 yrs , solid workers in crappy conditions. Rained hard last night and no leaks showing so I guess that’s all that matters .
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
If you don't mind, how many squares. I'm budgeting for mine in a year or two.
About 12 ish , approx 40 bundles per house , 5 freehold towns in a row . It was a bit spendy since the roofs are ‘architecturally interesting” which means pain in the arse to shingle , eyebrow windows and turrets and crap
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
Always missing pieces damnit.
Got a bunk bed for the cottage from cousins and a few joint connectors and barrel nuts are missing. FRAK.
Got a bunk bed for the cottage from cousins and a few joint connectors and barrel nuts are missing. FRAK.
Thanks will check it out tomorrow. Thanks to the powers of the internet I was able to find the model and spec.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Working on Chez North this week.
Nothing like working on a 1920 house in the North. Woke up this morning and stepped in some bear **** when cutting the grass.
Managed to level the main beam in the basement, 1.5" variation over 24', must have moved the house jack 100 times. Bought a good Milliwakee laser level, first time not using a water tube to level a building... awesome tool.
Also took out the old 60 Amp screw in fuse panel. My service to the meter is 200A, as is the new panel. Lightning charger ready! Gas here us 2.29.
Tomorrow I cut out an old 10"run 10" rise staircase. Just laid out the replacement half-pace stringers, gotta cut them myself as the wait for stair builders is 4 months.
Nothing like working on a 1920 house in the North. Woke up this morning and stepped in some bear **** when cutting the grass.
Managed to level the main beam in the basement, 1.5" variation over 24', must have moved the house jack 100 times. Bought a good Milliwakee laser level, first time not using a water tube to level a building... awesome tool.
Also took out the old 60 Amp screw in fuse panel. My service to the meter is 200A, as is the new panel. Lightning charger ready! Gas here us 2.29.
Tomorrow I cut out an old 10"run 10" rise staircase. Just laid out the replacement half-pace stringers, gotta cut them myself as the wait for stair builders is 4 months.
|
|
|
|
|