They used to break rocks this way. Rebar or mesh would make it a lot less effective.
You drill holes in the rock and fill with water. Water freezes and expands and cracks rock into more manageable pieces. I have no idea on size/quantity/depth of holes required. It was half said in jest. Given modern tools, it will probably be easier to use a normal jackhammer than to drill a gazillion holes (and if there is reinforcement in there, you are in for a bad day either way but the jackhammer will be way ahead).
You may also want a power dump buggy to get the yards of concrete from the backyard to the front yard bin. That's a hell of a lot of wheelbarrow loads.
You may also want a power dump buggy to get the yards of concrete from the backyard to the front yard bin. That's a hell of a lot of wheelbarrow loads.
You've seen my house...I've got about 200ft of concrete thanks to Kevin around the house that would need to be ripped up.
Plus the shed
Plus the deck
Plus the stairs to the entrance
Plus the driveway
Plus the front garden
I'm actually tempted to do the work myself and just renting a mini-excavator and figure it out on the fly. I can always pay someone to operate it but I'm just not sure how to deal with the deck/shed...I'd prefer NOT to rip them up.
As for the concrete...sledgehammer or a chipping gun...not many other options. Or I can just cut 2-3ft of concrete away from the house and did there. Shed can stay up, patio can stay up and then just re-pour new concrete.
My neighbour a few doors down did it with a shovel and muscle...not sure if I'd want to undergo that process by hand.
Decks can usually be 'backed off'. I did that to my 16x24' deck when I lowered it. My Kevin set the deck joists on top of the foundation by chisleing out the bottom course of veneer bricks. The deck was at sill level for a sliding and man door, and parallel to aluminum siding on the other side. Water was getting in and rotting my sill plates. I cut the joists and posts loose then tilted the whole thing back on it's end. 2 15 year olds and me.
Most framed sheds are easy to move, just jack them up and slide a few 6" PVC pipes under the sill plates. They will roll back on those.
Is that house your wife spied is starting to look better?
Decks can usually be 'backed off'. I did that to my 16x24' deck when I lowered it. My Kevin set the deck joists on top of the foundation by chisleing out the bottom course of veneer bricks. The deck was at sill level for a sliding and man door, and parallel to aluminum siding on the other side. Water was getting in and rotting my sill plates. I cut the joists and posts loose then tilted the whole thing back on it's end. 2 15 year olds and me.
Most framed sheds are easy to move, just jack them up and slide a few 6" PVC pipes under the sill plates. They will roll back on those.
Is that house your wife spied is starting to look better?
The Shed is connected to the house...I think it would have to come down anyway to put up siding...but that's the easier part of the whole job as we want to install new plywood to try and prevent new visitors for winter.
The Shed is connected to the house...I think it would have to come down anyway to put up siding...but that's the easier part of the whole job as we want to install new plywood to try and prevent new visitors for winter.
No: Then re-slope them by using a topping or call a slab lifting service to pump mortar underneath, then caulk.
IIRC the slabs run at least four feet out from the house. I don't think ground water will seep back that far. I hope not because I just did a surface run off project under my deck to eliminate my problem.
The problem with fixing flaws is that they rarely have payback at the time of sale. With waterproofing we are talking serious coin. DIY is a money saver but if something goes wrong it's going to hurt. Excavating is only part of the job. You will be familiar with shoring.
The fact that waterproofing was required will scare some buyers. They don't understand that a house that had a problem is better than one that may have a problem that has never been addressed.
Tackling my front door tomorrow as the weather stripping on the bottom is binding on the threshold. Door looks square though in the frame sink think the threshold has gotten a bump in it in the middle. Would be easy if the threshold was adjustable. I’ve tried soap/lube on the stripping but it doesn’t help for longer than a day.
I’ve got a bit of room to work with so I’ll try to shim the bottom couple hinges with cardboard and see if it moves it enough to stop the binding.
Minimal smell…I can hear water going when a toilet is flushed but nothing going through here. It’s plugged up now and I’ll run a snake through tomorrow when my dad can come by as I’m not handy enough.
Just happy to have it opened up with only a minor cut to the thread with the saw when I cut the plug off. Gotta find a wire brush though.
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