Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 150 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

When I built my bench I included one layer of drawers underneath the whole length (12ft). Tools in the rolling tool box and most other bits in the drawers (nuts, bolts, washers, screws etc)
Got a pic?
 
How are you guys organizing your tools? Not talking about shelving and the larger stuff….

I’m talking about the hardware, paint supplies, screwdrivers, sockets…etc.

Was considering ammo boxes but at $20-30/each that gets expensive fast.

Not missing space…just need a good method to actually organize it all.
Nice toolbox for $100 - very similar to mine which was also $100:)
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Nice toolbox for $100 - very similar to mine which was also $100:)
269732257_4873946945973858_966614689385956592_n.jpg
Could be ok. Make sure it has ball bearing slides. Some of the cheap waterloo stuff grinds and barely opens without weight in it. I didnt want plastic slides 20 years ago when I was buying boxes and I dont want them now. I just have the higher end crappy tire stuff and it should last and work well until I'm done using it.

FWIW, I dont normally like that big bottom compartment for home use. I value drawers amd bigger stuff can go on/in shelves/cabinets. If you are in a shop with aholes that steal everything, that larger compartment matters to protect your stuff.
 
The Husky 46" double bank tool boxes are the best you can get for the money when they come on sale. I picked one up for $199 back in 2016. Ended up selling it when I bought my KRL761 a few months later.

Not saying you should ever buy one because they are stupid money, but you can't beat that Snap On quality!

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I also have a short two tier file cabinet. I raised it with a 2x6 plinth and mounted my bench grinder and buffing wheel to the top. Inside I store drills, bits, angle grinder and such. Works very well. And used file cabinets are pretty cheap.
 
I also have a short two tier file cabinet. I raised it with a 2x6 plinth and mounted my bench grinder and buffing wheel to the top. Inside I store drills, bits, angle grinder and such. Works very well. And used file cabinets are pretty cheap.
Horizontal filing cabinets are great for small boxed tools (forstner bits, tie rod kit, flaring tool, etc) and boxes of nails. I have a pair of stacked conventional filing cabinets for other tools and sandpaper/drills. Top one is obviously annoying to access but better than my previous solution.
 
Decided to add a TV in a front room to an exterior wall, when it’s not being used I want to have it as a digital photo display. Got a nice fully articulating mount from Costco, Samsung Soundbar, 43” Samsung AU8000 some Soundbar mounts and found some open box compatible wireless Samsung rear speakers for a bargain price in Best Buy. Also bought a new NVidia Shield to put Kodi 19 on (my others have 18). Can’t decide how to run the wires. I bought a raceway kit as there’s a window frame nearby that can hide the cords at the edge and I didn’t want to cut into drywall too much but a behind the wall job looks really neat and tidy. Having an issue with my stud finder as it picks up a stud next to an outlet just fine but 16” away it’s not as positive. Unless I have weird 24” studs in that location.
 
Decided to add a TV in a front room to an exterior wall, when it’s not being used I want to have it as a digital photo display. Got a nice fully articulating mount from Costco, Samsung Soundbar, 43” Samsung AU8000 some Soundbar mounts and found some open box compatible wireless Samsung rear speakers for a bargain price in Best Buy. Also bought a new NVidia Shield to put Kodi 19 on (my others have 18). Can’t decide how to run the wires. I bought a raceway kit as there’s a window frame nearby that can hide the cords at the edge and I didn’t want to cut into drywall too much but a behind the wall job looks really neat and tidy. Having an issue with my stud finder as it picks up a stud next to an outlet just fine but 16” away it’s not as positive. Unless I have weird 24” studs in that location.
Try a magnet. There's screws inside of the wall that a magnet could pick up. I've yet to find a good stud finder that actually finds the studs.

I recently used a thermal camera on a wall and you could very clearly see the studs behind the drywall...I was super surprised. I no longer have it though.

As for running the cables....my wife didn't want me going into the drywall but HD has these kits that you can cut into the drywall and run cables fairly nicely behind. Won't work in my house because we have some weird 70s sponge behind the drywall for insulation, so I'd need to cut a channel along the entire length of cable run behind the drywall.

Something like this...

 
Amazon sells those plates/box cheaper as well plus that’s where I picked up a wire snake thingy. Basically a 18ish foot thin fibreglass rod in sections that’s flexible and can can push wires or pull them.
 
Amazon sells those plates/box cheaper as well plus that’s where I picked up a wire snake thingy. Basically a 18ish foot thin fibreglass rod in sections that’s flexible and can can push wires or pull them.
Bought those off Amazon as well. Great and cheap tool to help out with a job like that.
 
Try a magnet. There's screws inside of the wall that a magnet could pick up. I've yet to find a good stud finder that actually finds the studs.

I recently used a thermal camera on a wall and you could very clearly see the studs behind the drywall...I was super surprised. I no longer have it though.

As for running the cables....my wife didn't want me going into the drywall but HD has these kits that you can cut into the drywall and run cables fairly nicely behind. Won't work in my house because we have some weird 70s sponge behind the drywall for insulation, so I'd need to cut a channel along the entire length of cable run behind the drywall.

Something like this...

Franklin stud sensors work well if the wall is flat. The milwaukee wall scanner works well too but is a lot more money.
 
Franklin stud sensors work well if the wall is flat. The milwaukee wall scanner works well too but is a lot more money.

I’ve got two different stud sensors. I’m nearly at the point of getting medieval and driving finishing nails in to find/confirm the second stud. I’m just concerned that I might drive a mounting screw into the edge of a stud and then have to suffer the wife’s wrath if part of the wall comes down.
 
I’ve got two different stud sensors. I’m nearly at the point of getting medieval and driving finishing nails in to find/confirm the second stud. I’m just concerned that I might drive a mounting screw into the edge of a stud and then have to suffer the wife’s wrath if part of the wall comes down.
Thermal camera is magic. I'd let you borrow one but it would be cheaper to rent than drive twice. Flir one is a few hundred and can be used for a lot of things. Not as good but a lot cheaper than a dedicated camera.
 
I’ve got two different stud sensors. I’m nearly at the point of getting medieval and driving finishing nails in to find/confirm the second stud. I’m just concerned that I might drive a mounting screw into the edge of a stud and then have to suffer the wife’s wrath if part of the wall comes down.
I locate studs using a straight edge. Move it along the wall looking for light gaps between the edge and wall. Find small raises and dimples -- these are the telltale locations for screws where mud has been built up and shrunken.

A really good tape job might make this technique difficult, but it's rare to see that degree of perfection.
 
I find studs by just tapping the wall lightly with a hammer. You can tell by the sound.
I have one of these things and it’s so handy. I’ll still use my crap Zircon stud finder when needed, but the little magnet is super strong.

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little late here but,


ive never seen a drywaller with a stud finder

stand back n line er up with the gun pointed straight
sink screws until you hit the stud - 1st would should would be good!

if its a miss so what. pull the screw. later, mud it when mudding. easy correction.

I drywalled for a couple summers, my proper screw gun cost 20$ at the pawnbrokers. I still have it, so handy for lending out lol. get one.
never once used a lift. shrug, im 6'1". two 6 foot guys is best. hold your gun against the drywall on ceiling, with other hand add screw to gun, then switch hands (use empty left hand to hold up drywall while screwing w gun in right hand) repeat until you have 3 or 4 screws in sheet - no more holding req'd. finish screwing.

anyone wanna trade their tool box (look good to me!) for a screw gun lol.

wanna price your job? 25-30 cents a square foot to put up sheets and 25-30 cents a square foot to mud are about as low a price you'll get from a worker - contractor would laugh aat you for such a low rate. this is minimum cost.
 
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Anyone use a Walabot? I was thinking about them when they first came out but they were android only. Now you can get one that works with an iphone but it's more expensive.

I don't need one right now so I'll wait until I really need one, jury rig something to get me by and then forget about the bot until I suddenly could use one and jury rig again.
 
Anyone use a Walabot? I was thinking about them when they first came out but they were android only. Now you can get one that works with an iphone but it's more expensive.

I don't need one right now so I'll wait until I really need one, jury rig something to get me by and then forget about the bot until I suddenly could use one and jury rig again.
I saw something that said you need to have them connected to the web to use the software now. The old ones were standalone.

Some people don't believe in putting the studs in straight. That can make finding it much tougher. Normally you should just be able to measure sixteen inches from stud to stud.
 

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