Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 135 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Put up the Christmas lights. I got fed up with the hooks that go on the eves, and bought the ones that you drill in. Unfortunately, the plastic is crap, so they get brittle after a year or two, and need to be replaced. So I ran to the store and bought a new box of them, and stopped by the coffee shop to pick up a couple of lattes. Then I sanded and put on the second coat on the entrance ceiling. Sanded the basement ceiling, and just finished the second coat of compound.
 
Bleeping bleep bleep fancy gdo. Wall mounted remote is communicating so it can program opener behaviour and show you trouble shooting codes. Lights up with "press the push bar to activate control". Obviously that doesnt work. Power makes it to wall control so obviously circuit is complete. Move wall control to 6" wire from gdo to control and it works. Wankers are running data over the wires and screwed something up so it is affected by interference. It needs to send so little data, speed should be really slow and resiliency/fault tolerance prioritized. I havent decided how much effort to put in yet. I could a) disconnect the control, b) scope signal and see what it looks like and attempt to find source of problems or c) relocate communicating wall mount to beside gdo and solder existing wire on to its' momentary switch with a doorbell where the wall mount should go. If it has enough connection to get power, there is really no excuse to fail at opening the door.
 
Bleeping bleep bleep fancy gdo. Wall mounted remote is communicating so it can program opener behaviour and show you trouble shooting codes. Lights up with "press the push bar to activate control". Obviously that doesnt work. Power makes it to wall control so obviously circuit is complete. Move wall control to 6" wire from gdo to control and it works. Wankers are running data over the wires and screwed something up so it is affected by interference. It needs to send so little data, speed should be really slow and resiliency/fault tolerance prioritized. I havent decided how much effort to put in yet. I could a) disconnect the control, b) scope signal and see what it looks like and attempt to find source of problems or c) relocate communicating wall mount to beside gdo and solder existing wire on to its' momentary switch with a doorbell where the wall mount should go. If it has enough connection to get power, there is really no excuse to fail at opening the door.
Guys doing my garage door last month, decided to help out by stapling the wires into the wall in more spots.
Staple went right through one of the sensor wires, so the door wouldn't open or close properly.
I found the issue, after replacing the sensors.
Now I have to go around a pry out a bunch of staples, then put in proper clips.
The original owner did use staples, but he had a chunk of paper or insulation on the inside, and didn't put them too deep.
 
Guys doing my garage door last month, decided to help out by stapling the wires into the wall in more spots.
Staple went right through one of the sensor wires, so the door wouldn't open or close properly.
I found the issue, after replacing the sensors.
Now I have to go around a pry out a bunch of staples, then put in proper clips.
The original owner did use staples, but he had a chunk of paper or insulation on the inside, and didn't put them too deep.
I didnt run new wire. I figured existing wire was working, what's the point? Two splices in run (both soldered now to ensure that wasnt my issue). Possible there is a breach in the insulation at some random point (or splices are screwing it up as the wires are not parallel). Real kick in the nuts and a crap design to be that touchy.
 
I made a phone call and left a message for one I like. If he is interested, I will pass his contact info along. He is a full-blown architect. I think many of these renovation jobs get done by designers who are a lot cheaper. Hell, our current house plans were prepared by a designer with a BCIN. I don't know where the line is that requires a full-blown architect.
He's willing to talk and can do projects of your scope. Wesley Lim, WK Lim Architect, 416-591-6575. As always when making connections, I have no financial ties to Wesley, I liked working with him but I was not a client, I am just making the connection and it is up to you and him to decide if it is a good fit.
 
Put up the Christmas lights. I got fed up with the hooks that go on the eves, and bought the ones that you drill in. Unfortunately, the plastic is crap, so they get brittle after a year or two, and need to be replaced. So I ran to the store and bought a new box of them, and stopped by the coffee shop to pick up a couple of lattes. Then I sanded and put on the second coat on the entrance ceiling. Sanded the basement ceiling, and just finished the second coat of compound.
How frack! That's a solid week of work for a retired guy like me.
 
Kitchen has a raised bar top on a penninsula that devides dining room and kitchen , it has a very poorly done ceramic tile top that some idiot ( pre me) put a tile sealer on glazed tile , its ugly.
Thinking of making a white oak top to cover the tile , its another texture added to the room but I really dont like ceramic counters. Other tops in kitchen are granite

Thoughts gang ?
 
Kitchen has a raised bar top on a penninsula that devides dining room and kitchen , it has a very poorly done ceramic tile top that some idiot ( pre me) put a tile sealer on glazed tile , its ugly.
Thinking of making a white oak top to cover the tile , its another texture added to the room but I really dont like ceramic counters. Other tops in kitchen are granite

Thoughts gang ?
I don't like ceramic counters either. I'd consider stripping the existing top and then replacing, you may start getting pretty tall if you cap it. I like your concept (warm to touch for a leaning bar) but I get concerned about the number of colours or amount of wood in a space. If you already have oak cabinets and oak floors, I probably wouldn't do an oak countertop.
 
Kitchen has a raised bar top on a penninsula that devides dining room and kitchen , it has a very poorly done ceramic tile top that some idiot ( pre me) put a tile sealer on glazed tile , its ugly.
Thinking of making a white oak top to cover the tile , its another texture added to the room but I really dont like ceramic counters. Other tops in kitchen are granite

Thoughts gang ?
If you have money, get a good interior designer to take a look and advise you.

Things look so much better when someone knows how to coordinate them.
 
He's willing to talk and can do projects of your scope. Wesley Lim, WK Lim Architect, 416-591-6575. As always when making connections, I have no financial ties to Wesley, I liked working with him but I was not a client, I am just making the connection and it is up to you and him to decide if it is a good fit.
Thanks! I'll assume this was to me? I'll reach out to him tomorrow after another guy shows up. Have a lunch time visit from a different guy (my sis is using him for her backyard pool + poolhouse project).
 
Probably ****** off the whole neighbourhood. Cleaned up the yard with a leaf blower and hated doing it as it’s so effing dark so soon….and redid the lights. MUCH better. Not perfect….but much better.

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Thinking it is time to fix the place up to sell neighbors is up for 2.8 nicer house but about the same lot size and sq ft. if I have to dump 200g into getting it ready would be worth it. Eyeing up a bigger property close by maybe build a new house there.

Sent using a thumb maybe 2
 
Thinking it is time to fix the place up to sell neighbors is up for 2.8 nicer house but about the same lot size and sq ft. if I have to dump 200g into getting it ready would be worth it. Eyeing up a bigger property close by maybe build a new house there.

Sent using a thumb maybe 2
You’ve got a beautiful property there. 2.8 is a nice solid number for sure. I think your shed/garage is bigger than many peoples houses!
 
If you have money, get a good interior designer to take a look and advise you.

Things look so much better when someone knows how to coordinate them.

I think you may be right, the kitchen is granite ( green grey), the Island is Corian ( grey) side board in Kitchen is white oak mid brown color, and I have dark cherry cabinets. The new proposed top in white oak may be over the top .
Being a wood salesman , I really like wood , but there can be too much .
Good advice.

As an aside , I had a curly maple kitchen in one house, 8K in lumber before it became a kitchen, wife says one day when i was leaving for a two week trip , I'd just like that painted white. I say yeah, do whatever buttercup , gotta go. I come back and its sprayed out white. She already had the painters lined up.

I made birdseye maple baseboards and casings for the grand dining room in last house that sat on 8" wide maple plank flooring I had made. New owners painted over all the birdseye maple. I was sad , but it was no longer my house.
 
Can you match the dark cherry for the top? Might not wear well though, depending on the top coat. I think it is better if you can tie in one of the existing colours vs introducing a new one.
 
I think you may be right, the kitchen is granite ( green grey), the Island is Corian ( grey) side board in Kitchen is white oak mid brown color, and I have dark cherry cabinets. The new proposed top in white oak may be over the top .
Being a wood salesman , I really like wood , but there can be too much .
Good advice.

As an aside , I had a curly maple kitchen in one house, 8K in lumber before it became a kitchen, wife says one day when i was leaving for a two week trip , I'd just like that painted white. I say yeah, do whatever buttercup , gotta go. I come back and its sprayed out white. She already had the painters lined up.

I made birdseye maple baseboards and casings for the grand dining room in last house that sat on 8" wide maple plank flooring I had made. New owners painted over all the birdseye maple. I was sad , but it was no longer my house.

All the trim on our main / upper floors are solid beautiful wood (not sure what type, but it has a nice pink hue). I go away to BC for my shift and come back to everything being painted white...I couldn't believe it. I've been upset over it for a long while. Wife was all for white, until she saw a similar wood trim at our friends' cottage and now regrets painting it all white. I think it would've added a nice touch of nature into the house.

I'm tempted to one day rip it all off, strip the paint in the planer and refinish it to keep a nice wooden look. But that's a massive job in itself.
 
All the trim on our main / upper floors are solid beautiful wood (not sure what type, but it has a nice pink hue). I go away to BC for my shift and come back to everything being painted white...I couldn't believe it. I've been upset over it for a long while. Wife was all for white, until she saw a similar wood trim at our friends' cottage and now regrets painting it all white. I think it would've added a nice touch of nature into the house.

I'm tempted to one day rip it all off, strip the paint in the planer and refinish it to keep a nice wooden look. But that's a massive job in itself.
I like wood but for me, white trim is the way to go. I'd rather have the wood as cabinets, floors, furniture, counters etc. Luckily for me, that makes trim much easier.

I have my doubts about remove/strip/reinstall with satisfactory results. That is a lot of manipulation for something that has to end up perfect.
 
I like wood but for me, white trim is the way to go. I'd rather have the wood as cabinets, floors, furniture, counters etc. Luckily for me, that makes trim much easier.

I have my doubts about remove/strip/reinstall with satisfactory results. That is a lot of manipulation for something that has to end up perfect.
Thickness planer would make short work of it. Got a joiner here as well so the effort to strip isn't all that large...now removing, and re-installing...that's a much larger task.
 
Removing without damaging! Not like you can just fill the damage with spackle, epoxy etc. afterwards.

I would strip them in place, possibly heat gun or chemical.
 

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