Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

[mimico_polak]

Removing without damaging! Not like you can just fill the damage with spackle, epoxy etc. afterwards.

I would strip them in place, possibly heat gun or chemical.

I'm trying to convince the wife to let me rip apart the house room by room over the summer...so I think I can pry the trim off without damage...but may just buy new wood and redo it with time. Dad was able to find that beautiful wood once, so I'm hoping he can find it again if needed.

Plus we will need some for the cottage as that upgrade will definitely have wood trim! And I love my buddy's pine ceiling boards. Very cottagey!

 

[crankcall]

@mimico, I'll guess with the age of your home that trim was either philipine mahogany or gumwood , both were really popular at the time. I would be very hesitant to strip in place, getting it out of the grain will be really problematic and it gets britttle with age, dont be surprised if jamming it through the planner a lot of it fractures. If you really wanted wood , just start over. It will never come off/go back the same way.
Contact Brenlo in Toronto and buy what you need .
Or eastwood laminate, or Tamarack or Central Fairbank , or Talbot wood.
Never buy trim at homo depot or Lowes

 

[Hardwrkr13]

Bleeping bleep bleep fancy gdo. Wall mounted remote is communicating so it can program opener behaviour and show you trouble shooting codes. Lights up with "press the push bar to activate control". Obviously that doesnt work. Power makes it to wall control so obviously circuit is complete. Move wall control to 6" wire from gdo to control and it works. Wankers are running data over the wires and screwed something up so it is affected by interference. It needs to send so little data, speed should be really slow and resiliency/fault tolerance prioritized. I havent decided how much effort to put in yet. I could a) disconnect the control, b) scope signal and see what it looks like and attempt to find source of problems or c) relocate communicating wall mount to beside gdo and solder existing wire on to its' momentary switch with a doorbell where the wall mount should go. If it has enough connection to get power, there is really no excuse to fail at opening the door.

I use a guy who is/was on the forum here. $80 to install each gdo. He’s still doing it as he did 3 of mine this year. PM me if you’re interested in his number (I get it that yours are installed, but $80 to fix whatever the problem is might be money well spent).

 

[Hardwrkr13]

Toddler hasn’t adapted to the time change yet so she was up at 4am. Watched the Grinch while waiting for sunlight then started up the chainsaw. Nice weather to be cleaning up dead trees around the property.

 

[GreyGhost]

I use a guy who is/was on the forum here. $80 to install each gdo. He’s still doing it as he did 3 of mine this year. PM me if you’re interested in his number (I get it that yours are installed, but $80 to fix whatever the problem is might be money well spent).

Thanks. It's just a wiring problem. I have faith that either a new wire (with no splices) or relocating the wall switch will work. The wall switches aren't used that often anyway and you can open/close that gdo with a button on the box so I'm not missing anything important. Just a piss-off that the engineers didn't have the right design priorities (or the accountants screwed it up).

 

[mimico_polak]

Toddler hasn’t adapted to the time change yet so she was up at 4am. Watched the Grinch while waiting for sunlight then started up the chainsaw. Nice weather to be cleaning up dead trees around the property.

Nothing better than the smell of 2 stroke in the morning! Neighbours probably hated me last night but I loved it!

@crankcall the wood trim is very new as we had the wood purchased less than 2 years ago and we installed it when doing our Reno.

 

[backmarkerducati]

@mimico, I'll guess with the age of your home that trim was either philipine mahogany or gumwood , both were really popular at the time. I would be very hesitant to strip in place, getting it out of the grain will be really problematic and it gets britttle with age, dont be surprised if jamming it through the planner a lot of it fractures. If you really wanted wood , just start over. It will never come off/go back the same way.
Contact Brenlo in Toronto and buy what you need .
Or eastwood laminate, or Tamarack or Central Fairbank , or Talbot wood.
Never buy trim at homo depot or Lowes

My guess is it is mostly Douglas Fir, very common for the age and style of the home.

 

[jc100]

Outside my patio door to the deck my flat roof has a water issue dripping from the edge of the roof such that in icy weather it makes things pretty slippery. It obviously needs some professional attention but in the meantime I was wondering what I can do to divert these drips away. The drips seem to be coming from near the edge of the roof, on the underside of it off the soffit. I was wondering if I could hang a 10ft vinyl gutter length there with strapping to collect the water and move it away from the door. Think that would work? I can put a flexible downspout on one end and slope it with the strapping to move the water off the edge of the deck I think. It would be under the roof right up nearly against the soffit and so shouldn’t collect any snow and weigh too much.

 

[GreyGhost]

Outside my patio door to the deck my flat roof has a water issue dripping from the edge of the roof such that in icy weather it makes things pretty slippery. It obviously needs some professional attention but in the meantime I was wondering what I can do to divert these drips away. The drips seem to be coming from near the edge of the roof, on the underside of it off the soffit. I was wondering if I could hang a 10ft vinyl gutter length there with strapping to collect the water and move it away from the door. Think that would work? I can put a flexible downspout on one end and slope it with the strapping to move the water off the edge of the deck I think. It would be under the roof right up nearly against the soffit and so shouldn’t collect any snow and weigh too much.

Sounds reasonable. Water coming out of the soffit is very bad and should be addressed asap. You don't want your house to rot/grow.

 

[jc100]

Sounds reasonable. Water coming out of the soffit is very bad and should be addressed asap. You don't want your house to rot/grow.

I can’t work out if it’s actually coming from the soffit or following contours around and over the edge to appear so. It’s dripping from “near the edge” and not further in from the edge so I’m hoping/thinking it’s the former.

When I’ve been on holiday in the tropics they have tons of rain there and a lot of houses use drip guides on roofs to divert water. Some of these are plastic link chains etc with lots of surfaces for rain to follow down to the ground.

 

[GreyGhost]

I can’t work out if it’s actually coming from the soffit or following contours around and over the edge to appear so. It’s dripping from “near the edge” and not further in from the edge so I’m hoping/thinking it’s the former.

When I’ve been on holiday in the tropics they have tons of rain there and a lot of houses use drip guides on roofs to divert water. Some of these are plastic link chains etc with lots of surfaces for rain to follow down to the ground.

If it was a shingled roof I would say slide a drip edge under the last course to keep the water from wrapping around but being a flat roof, you likely dont have that option.

 

[jc100]

If it was a shingled roof I would say slide a drip edge under the last course to keep the water from wrapping around but being a flat roof, you likely dont have that option.

You can put a special drip edge on a rubber membrane flat roof but this is (old) tar and gravel and I’m not that inclined to get up there, shovel off the edge material and then bodge something up. I think this is best left to the pros. We have a company we trust with flat roof repairs but they are likely pretty busy so my temporary fix should last the winter and stop ice build up on the deck. If I ever see the gutter section fill with ice I’ll just release the strapping so it doesn’t stress the soffit area.

 

[mimico_polak]

Alrighty....first architect / PM showed up on time today...waiting for a quote for the design / permitting process. I'm scared to see the price, but am thinking <10k.

He did say the chimney needs to come down if we want an open space above our living room...brick by brick to take apart.

 

[jc100]

Alrighty....first architect / PM showed up on time today...waiting for a quote for the design / permitting process. I'm scared to see the price, but am thinking <10k.

He did say the chimney needs to come down if we want an open space above our living room...brick by brick to take apart.

Haven’t you learned? Take the price, double it and add 10k.

 

[GreyGhost]

Alrighty....first architect / PM showed up on time today...waiting for a quote for the design / permitting process. I'm scared to see the price, but am thinking <10k.

He did say the chimney needs to come down if we want an open space above our living room...brick by brick to take apart.

Can you get straight run from the chimney to a dumpster? Use a garbage chute or sheet metal and plywood to make a slide and it should go pretty quickly. Obviously the part inside your house would suck.

 

[mimico_polak]

Can you get straight run from the chimney to a dumpster? Use a garbage chute or sheet metal and plywood to make a slide and it should go pretty quickly. Obviously the part inside your house would suck.

Plan was to block off the fireplaces with heavy tarps, put something in the bottom, and start knocking bricks down one by one.

For now we may just remove it down to the main floor level so that I don't have to redo the living room / kitchen all at once. But from initial discussions he said it didn't look overly complicated.

Worst part will be the HVAC as the current furnace / layout may not be strong enough to pump air into the additional space. But it's too early to tell.

He recommended that it may be good to have a second unit for the upstairs only (current and new) and keep the existing one for the lower floors. My sister has 2 furnaces due to the age/layout of her house.

 

[GreyGhost]

Plan was to block off the fireplaces with heavy tarps, put something in the bottom, and start knocking bricks down one by one.

For now we may just remove it down to the main floor level so that I don't have to redo the living room / kitchen all at once. But from initial discussions he said it didn't look overly complicated.

Worst part will be the HVAC as the current furnace / layout may not be strong enough to pump air into the additional space. But it's too early to tell.

He recommended that it may be good to have a second unit for the upstairs only (current and new) and keep the existing one for the lower floors. My sister has 2 furnaces due to the age/layout of her house.

I would do a mini-split heat pump on the new upper floor (potentially multi-head depending on layout). A single system across four living levels will have real trouble keeping everything comfortable. Low ambient mini-splits maintain full capacity to 0F and reduced capacity below that. Given that you have the main furnace allowing heat to drift up an supplement that space, practically I think you could avoid resistance heat. If you were really concerned about heating the new space, throw in a direct vent gas fireplace.

 

[mimico_polak]

I would do a mini-split heat pump on the new upper floor (potentially multi-head depending on layout). A single system across four living levels will have real trouble keeping everything comfortable. Low ambient mini-splits maintain full capacity to 0F and reduced capacity below that. Given that you have the main furnace allowing heat to drift up an supplement that space, practically I think you could avoid resistance heat. If you were really concerned about heating the new space, throw in a direct vent gas fireplace.

This type of system?

12000 BTU Mini Split Air Conditioner - Heat Pump - SENL/12CD

Find a selection of ductless mini split air conditioners with heat pumps. We offer the best split air conditioner models and ductless air conditioners in Canada.

senville.ca

 

[GreyGhost]

This type of system?

12000 BTU Mini Split Air Conditioner - Heat Pump - SENL/12CD

Find a selection of ductless mini split air conditioners with heat pumps. We offer the best split air conditioner models and ductless air conditioners in Canada.

senville.ca

Yeah, but probably a mitsubishi or some brand I had heard of. You can avoid the wall warts if you don't want the look. You can also come up with a VRF outdoor unit and conventional ducted air handler but those are surprisingly hard to find in canada (and ductwork sucks).

 

[crankcall]

if anybody is planning anything using plywood , buy it today. Softwood sheathing ply , It all comes through central BC , and the mills are closing and the roads /rail lines are pooched.
Plywood pricing back to the moon next week. We took our company off market Tuesday to sit and see where the numbers fall by next Monday.
Gonna be ugly for builders , again .