Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

[shanekingsley]

Going to be doing some upgrades to our tiny garage in the next 4-6 weeks. The wall on the right is exposed and needs to insulated as well as the wall on the left (up to the closet), so all the walls will be drywalled and insulated. The other walls are currently insulated (incl. ceiling and closet) and all the doors are new. There is a decent amount of concrete deterioration along the bottom perimeter of the walls - not sure if this should be repaired or is ok to cover up with drywall without patching it all up. House is a 1976 build and not trying to break the bank here, but do it well.

Once the walls are done we are going to put in a Racedeck floor. Being clueless, I'm guessing that the drywall will come right down to the floor (like the closet) and I'm guessing it would be a good idea to have some sort of a 3" -4" vinyl baseboard all the way around to protect the drywall in case of water issues.

I'm thinking the order of operations is:
Remove exposed walls & insulate
Replace drywall and add vinyl baseboard
Lay Racedeck flooring

Am I off base with anything?
Thanks!

 

[GreyGhost]

Going to be doing some upgrades to our tiny garage in the next 4-6 weeks. The wall on the right is exposed and needs to insulated as well as the wall on the left (up to the closet), so all the walls will be drywalled and insulated. The other walls are currently insulated (incl. ceiling and closet) and all the doors are new. There is a decent amount of concrete deterioration along the bottom perimeter of the walls - not sure if this should be repaired or is ok to cover up with drywall without patching it all up. House is a 1976 build and not trying to break the bank here, but do it well.

Once the walls are done we are going to put in a Racedeck floor. Being clueless, I'm guessing that the drywall will come right down to the floor (like the closet) and I'm guessing it would be a good idea to have some sort of a 3" -4" vinyl baseboard all the way around to protect the drywall in case of water issues.

I'm thinking the order of operations is:
Remove exposed walls & insulate
Replace drywall and add vinyl baseboard
Lay Racedeck flooring

Am I off base with anything?
Thanks!

Don't put drywall all the way to the floor, it will wick up moisture. Racedeck looks like it is 1/2" thick so I would keep drywall up 1" from concrete (nominal, gap gets hidden), lay racedeck, add cove base molding to hide the edge of the racedeck.

EDIT:
What's your plan with the liquidtight on the left side? Are you furring out that wall to bury it? Stopping the drywall above it? Boxing in a curb? Letting the drywall curve over it?

 

[shanekingsley]

Don't put drywall all the way to the floor, it will wick up moisture. Racedeck looks like it is 1/2" thick so I would keep drywall up 1" from concrete (nominal, gap gets hidden), lay racedeck, add cove base molding to hide the edge of the racedeck.

EDIT:
What's your plan with the liquidtight on the left side? Are you furring out that wall to bury it? Stopping the drywall above it? Boxing in a curb? Letting the drywall curve over it?

Awesome thanks and totally makes sense.
Not sure what you mean by liquidtight unless you are referring to the grey electrical conduit which is for the electric car charger. I was thinking about having the drywall come down to just above it (and have a base molding cover any exposed concrete), but am open to other suggestions if there is something more sensible to do there.

Edit: That wall will have to come out to add insulation. so I could bury it in the wall if needed. We plan on living here for a long time, so it's about whatever makes the most sense.

 

[GreyGhost]

Awesome thanks and totally makes sense.
Not sure what you mean by liquidtight unless you are referring to the grey electrical conduit which is for the electric car charger. I was thinking about having the drywall come down to just above it (and have a base molding cover any exposed concrete), but am open to other suggestions if there is something more sensible to do there.

That wall may have to come out to add insulation so I could bury it in the wall if needed.

Cove base molding (the flexible, easy to find vinyl baseboard) isn't that tall. You could use something like Z bar to kick the wall out over the conduit. with minimal framing hassle (the web of the z bar would be the top of the box, you could run a strip of board there and corner beads if you don't want to see the metal and exposed drywall edge). Alternatively, I don't know where to buy it, but a piece of sheet metal bent to provide a sloping top can give you one piece of metal from above the conduit to the floor (finish with cove base molding). Maybe guys that make fascia could bang one out? Alternatively, I think there are a few GTAM members with brakes. The profile I envision has three to five bends depending on how strong you want it.

https://www.bmp-group.com/docs/default-source/literature/z-bar-(feature-sheet)7eb84bcfd1de6413ac21ff00002d9a3e.pdf?sfvrsn=42662fe2_2

 

[mimico_polak]

@shanekingsley the most important part is to add more electrical outlets in the garage!

We did this in our garage also. Do not put the drywall on the floor as mentioned. Leave a gap to put in your flooring, and then some. We didn’t put baseboard because it’s the garage.

We had the drywall and insulation shipped to our house. Super convenient. If you need my trailer let me know if you’re picking up your own stuff.

 

[shanekingsley]

@shanekingsley the most important part is to add more electrical outlets in the garage!

We did this in our garage also. Do not put the drywall on the floor as mentioned. Leave a gap to put in your flooring, and then some. We didn’t put baseboard because it’s the garage.

We had the drywall and insulation shipped to our house. Super convenient. If you need my trailer let me know if you’re picking up your own stuff.

Awesome thanks for the offer.
Did you put a new flooring in or leave the standard concrete?

There is a local guy (Polish!) who gutted and reno’d two of our bathrooms and he does very good work with great attention to detail for a super price, so I will get him to do the drywall work.

There is already 2 outlets in there, so I don’t need more than that for such a small space. Maybe I’ll think about adding one more tops.

Since the garage is small and low in natural light, I’m thinking of something like this for the tile design:

 

[mimico_polak]

We left the same floor in our garage. It’s garbage and chipping but I’m not going to rip it up just to put a new one in.

I think I installed 2 outlets on each wall as a minimum….always space to connect to!

 

[GreyGhost]

We left the same floor in our garage. It’s garbage and chipping but I’m not going to rip it up just to put a new one in.

I think I installed 2 outlets on each wall as a minimum….always space to connect to!

Given the small area of SK's garage, I wouldn't be too concerned with plugs if he's already got two. Add a self-retracting cord plugged in beside the GDO(assuming it has the required outlet beside it and isn't a bastard hookup with an extension cord) and that will be the one he uses for all portable needs leaving the wall outlets free for permanent fixtures (air compressor, tool battery chargers, etc).

 

[Baggsy]

I'd look into smoothing out the concrete below & behind the conduit, paint it, and then pin or nail some j bead just above the conduit and right around wherever you need it. That way the drywall is off the floor and you can just slide the drywall into the j bead to hold it up while you fasten it, and the concrete underneath doesn't look too bad. You can see how it works for some of the walls in my garage below.

. . .

I think our garage is now officially finished according to the contractor. Although, he's said that before. We were told that new hardware wasn't in the contract for the garage doors. One of the doors, wasn't adjusted properly for height, or the concrete repair wasn't leveled, or both, and the non missing screw is at the bottom edge for adjustment, so I'll need to put in a new hole. At this point I'm loathe, to have them fix it.

Electrical plugs are in, but not connected to anything, and I have no idea who installed the wiring or where it ends. Presumably somewhere in the garage ceiling. Will have to see if he says getting a permit and connecting it to power wasn't in the contract either.

At the same time, we've rented a container to store the stuff that was in the garage and it wasn't cheap, so might be best to cut our losses.

Stonework was really nicely done, and the drywall was done well, back door is also o.k. We'll see if the insulation was sufficient for the winters her.

Like everything else, some of it was really good, and some not so good.

edit - pictures:

 

[GreyGhost]

I'd look into smoothing out the concrete below & behind the conduit, paint it, and then pin or nail some j bead just above the conduit and right around wherever you need it. That way the drywall is off the floor and you can just slide the drywall into the j bead to hold it up while you fasten it, and the concrete underneath doesn't look too bad. You can see how it works for some of the walls in my garage below.

. . .

I think our garage is now officially finished according to the contractor. Although, he's said that before. We were told that new hardware wasn't in the contract for the garage doors. One of the doors, wasn't adjusted properly for height, or the concrete repair wasn't leveled, or both, and the non missing screw is at the bottom edge for adjustment, so I'll need to put in a new hole. At this point I'm loathe, to have them fix it.

Electrical plugs are in, but not connected to anything, and I have no idea who installed the wiring or where it ends. Presumably somewhere in the garage ceiling. Will have to see if he says getting a permit and connecting it to power wasn't in the contract either.

At the same time, we've rented a container to store the stuff that was in the garage and it wasn't cheap, so might be best to cut our losses.

Stonework was really nicely done, and the drywall was done well, back door is also o.k. We'll see if the insulation was sufficient for the winters her.

Like everything else, some of it was really good, and some not so good.

edit - pictures:

Is that light coming under the garage door? That's not good if you want it to hold some heat.

I would be very unimpressed by playing find the wiring after I had paid someone to do the job. I assume you still have a holdback? I would be deducting the container costs from the holdback until the outlets work.

 

[Baggsy]

Is that light coming under the garage door? That's not good if you want it to hold some heat.

I would be very unimpressed by playing find the wiring after I had paid someone to do the job. I assume you still have a holdback? I would be deducting the container costs from the holdback until the outlets work.

Yeah. I'm also concerned about mice, as once you get a warm area with a tiny, tiny gap, they move right in.

The thing is if you push the garage door from the top, once it's in the closed position, the gap disappears.

I can only assume that they didn't adjust it properly, or put the screws in the wrong spot, and then adjusted it to the max it would allow. One screw is missing. Not too please about them, as they were supposed to send us a catalogue to pick a door, and I would have picked one with a higher R value. I'm assuming they couldn't find anything else insulated in stock, so they just said f it, and put it in. I checked the wording on the contract, and it does say install garage doors only, which we didn't catch. I wonder now if they'll say the same about the electrical plugs, as they aren't connected to power. Wife's been paying, so I'm not sure if she kept the holdback. I'll make sure that we do for the next poor fellow. I know one person said not to pay more than 50% before it's done. I know people who've been on the other end of the stick, so I don't like to be a prick about it, but I guess business is business.

 

[jc100]

I have a big squishy gasket thing at the bottom of my garage door. Conforms to the gaps once it’s closed. Maybe you just need a squishier thing?

 

[GreyGhost]

Yeah. I'm also concerned about mice, as once you get a warm area with a tiny, tiny gap, they move right in.

The thing is if you push the garage door from the top, once it's in the closed position, the gap disappears.

I can only assume that they didn't adjust it properly, or put the screws in the wrong spot, and then adjusted it to the max it would allow. One screw is missing. Not too please about them, as they were supposed to send us a catalogue to pick a door, and I would have picked one with a higher R value. I'm assuming they couldn't find anything else insulated in stock, so they just said f it, and put it in. I checked the wording on the contract, and it does say install garage doors only, which we didn't catch. I wonder now if they'll say the same about the electrical plugs, as they aren't connected to power. Wife's been paying, so I'm not sure if she kept the holdback. I'll make sure that we do for the next poor fellow. I know one person said not to pay more than 50% before it's done. I know people who've been on the other end of the stick, so I don't like to be a prick about it, but I guess business is business.

Setup of the Jack shaft opener was phenomenally easy. Instead of typical turn adjustment screw, cycle door and repeat, you hold up until you are happy, press enter, hold down until you are happy with position, press enter and you're done.

 

[Baggsy]

I have a big squishy gasket thing at the bottom of my garage door. Conforms to the gaps once it’s closed. Maybe you just need a squishier thing?

Yeah, I could also get a threshold, that goes along the floor and prevents water/craps from getting in. Only seem to have them online now though.

I'll probably just take the screw out that they put in, get a couple more, and put them back in, in the right spots for the door to be properly closed.

 

[nobbie48]

I wish i had filled ALL the empty spaces under my shed.I have had lots of rabbits, groundhogs and skunks under there. Gravel would have fixed that.

A friend had skunks under his porch and they he tried trapping using just about every bait with no luck. A guy from Hydro said they use KFC in their traps around transformer pads so he tried it. Worked like a charm.

I've cut back on KFC as I now think of it as skunk bait.

 

[nobbie48]

Yup. Hopefully they eat enough to dry out quickly. In case it is chipmunks, wife will be very upset with snap traps. Poison gives me plausible deniability (and can take out however many there are without needing constant resetting). Also, if air balance in house is reasonable, a death in the attack shouldn't smell in the house.

Rats: Vermin with skinny tails

Squirrels: Vermin with fluffy tails

Chipmunks: Smaller Cute Vermin

 

[nobbie48]

Going to be doing some upgrades to our tiny garage in the next 4-6 weeks. The wall on the right is exposed and needs to insulated as well as the wall on the left (up to the closet), so all the walls will be drywalled and insulated. The other walls are currently insulated (incl. ceiling and closet) and all the doors are new. There is a decent amount of concrete deterioration along the bottom perimeter of the walls - not sure if this should be repaired or is ok to cover up with drywall without patching it all up. House is a 1976 build and not trying to break the bank here, but do it well.

Once the walls are done we are going to put in a Racedeck floor. Being clueless, I'm guessing that the drywall will come right down to the floor (like the closet) and I'm guessing it would be a good idea to have some sort of a 3" -4" vinyl baseboard all the way around to protect the drywall in case of water issues.

I'm thinking the order of operations is:
Remove exposed walls & insulate
Replace drywall and add vinyl baseboard
Lay Racedeck flooring

Am I off base with anything?
Thanks!

FWIW I just repainted my garage floor. When I did it last year I hoped it would stick but the surface was too smooth so I diamond ground the surface and painted again.

I put in glossy ceramic tiles as baseboards a few years ago when I found out that a mouse can climb concrete block. I also double checked every opening possibility, added the sonic noise things, and placed traps. Traps are inhumane but so is rewiring a Goldwing. The tiles are cheap at places like ReStore but with limited colours. Get them as tall as possible and slippery shiny. They'll cover the spalled blocks as well.

Unless the blocks are turning to mush I wouldn't worry about them. A light tap from a hammer should tell by the sound.

 

[shanekingsley]

FWIW I just repainted my garage floor. When I did it last year I hoped it would stick but the surface was too smooth so I diamond ground the surface and painted again.

I put in glossy ceramic tiles as baseboards a few years ago when I found out that a mouse can climb concrete block. I also double checked every opening possibility, added the sonic noise things, and placed traps. Traps are inhumane but so is rewiring a Goldwing. The tiles are cheap at places like ReStore but with limited colours. Get them as tall as possible and slippery shiny. They'll cover the spalled blocks as well.

Unless the blocks are turning to mush I wouldn't worry about them. A light tap from a hammer should tell by the sound.

Thanks - the blocks aren't turning to mush yet. Just a small amount of powder drops off the cement each year. But like @Baggsy mentioned, I will clean and patch them up so that everything is better.

Just had our Polish neighbour come and look at the job. If all goes well we will start this at the end of the month. I'll do the demo and he will do the drywalling. I'll look into spray foam insulation to see how much more it will cost, since we had that done in our house and it was so efficient.

 

[sburns]

I've cut back on KFC as I now think of it as skunk bait.

Well KFC does have the nickname of "dirtybird"

 

[sburns]

Just had our Polish neighbour come and look at the job. If all goes well we will start this at the end of the month. I'll do the demo and he will do the drywalling. I'll look into spray foam insulation to see how much more it will cost, since we had that done in our house and it was so efficient.

Curious to know where you installed the spray foam. In exsisting walls (upstairs) or newly renovated space?