Bicycles... I want one... Suggestions/Recommendations? | Page 9 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Bicycles... I want one... Suggestions/Recommendations?

When you're peddling and your leg is extended you want only a slight bend so to have your legs do that your seat has to be really high up. If the seat is low your legs wont extend properly. Not really entirely sure on the science behind it, maybe someone can explain it.
 
Question...
What's with the incredibly high seats?
I tried my buddy's Raleigh the other day and the seat was so high, but I find this a common thing.
What's the purpose?

Seat height is dependent on riding position. You want to obtain the correct amount of leg extension for your inseam and you adjust the seat to the appropriate position. For instance, if you were to ride a 15" frame, you likely couldn't get the seat high enough to get the correct amount of leg extension. If you had a 21" frame, the seat would be quite low. This is relative to the top of the seat tube on the frame.

To find the correct leg extension, generally, when the ball of your foot is over the pedal spindle, and you're seated, and the pedal is at the bottom of the pedal circle, you should have slightly less than full lock. In other words, if 180 degrees is full leg lock,you want to be about 160-170 degrees or so. It's a bit of personal preference, but that's the rule of thumb. Most people are shocked at how high their seat is when set to be most efficient for pedalling. You certainly won't be able to flat-foot even one foot if it's set for the most efficient position for pedalling.

If you're a freeride or downhill goof (you know who you are! :) ) then the seat position is much more simply preference. Easier to get off the back, keep it out of the way...
 
Question...
What's with the incredibly high seats?
I tried my buddy's Raleigh the other day and the seat was so high, but I find this a common thing.
What's the purpose?

The best seat height for pedaling efficiency is one where your leg is just slightly bent when the pedal is at the bottom if the crank rotation.

Most bikes we grow up with have seats that are far too low, which perhaps contributes to the distaste for bikes when we get older.
 
When you're peddling and your leg is extended you want only a slight bend so to have your legs do that your seat has to be really high up. If the seat is low your legs wont extend properly. Not really entirely sure on the science behind it, maybe someone can explain it.

Just lets you use your entire leg muscle extension while riding..everyone is different though..some people like it lower..Sean Kelly was a classic example. I like it higher but anytime your hips start rocking while seated you've gone too high. That's not good for anyone. I always say "rule of thumb" with bike fit because everyone has their own preference. Some of it is physiological as well..some people just don't have the flexibility to get into the most efficient cycling positions..I'm one..too inflexible in the back and hamstrings..ah well.
 
Seat height is dependent on riding position. You want to obtain the correct amount of leg extension for your inseam and you adjust the seat to the appropriate position. For instance, if you were to ride a 15" frame, you likely couldn't get the seat high enough to get the correct amount of leg extension. If you had a 21" frame, the seat would be quite low. This is relative to the top of the seat tube on the frame.

To find the correct leg extension, generally, when the ball of your foot is over the pedal spindle, and you're seated, and the pedal is at the bottom of the pedal circle, you should have slightly less than full lock. In other words, if 180 degrees is full leg lock,you want to be about 160-170 degrees or so. It's a bit of personal preference, but that's the rule of thumb. Most people are shocked at how high their seat is when set to be most efficient for pedalling. You certainly won't be able to flat-foot even one foot if it's set for the most efficient position for pedalling.

If you're a freeride or downhill goof (you know who you are! :) ) then the seat position is much more simply preference. Easier to get off the back, keep it out of the way...

Thanks for the break down.
It just felt really uncomfortable and after a 10 minute ride, I realized how out of shape I am.
All the more reason to hop on and peddle.

Thanks for all the help so far guys.
 
Most people are shocked at how high their seat is when set to be most efficient for pedalling. You certainly won't be able to flat-foot even one foot if it's set for the most efficient position for pedalling.

Very True
Not just that but Bar Height, Frame Size, Crank arm length ect

I thought I knew what works for me until I had a Pro Fit done before buying my Felt Ar3
Now even getting on my Rapid 3 just to mess around feels Wrong
 
Inseam x .83 (center-line of bottom bracket to top of seat) will get you in the ballpark.
 
Seems the market is softening for Cook Bros pedals. This used set only went for $1525.00 yesterday.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190643599...sid=p3984.m1438.l2649&clk_rvr_id=319442501515

That's quite the drop from the pair in worse shape that sold for $2,113.88 14 months ago.

cook.jpg


Bars and stems seem to be holding their own. These ones were NOS, though.

cookbros2.jpg
 
Whachoo guys think about Biomega bikes? Innovative but that doesn't mean they're quality, right?
 
Whachoo guys think about Biomega bikes? Innovative but that doesn't mean they're quality, right?

I looked through the catalog and didn't see anything that was really an innovation. Virtually all their bikes were either done years ago (and arguably better), or in the case of Calfee Designs, being done better now.

Biomega Boston

photo_biomega-boston_1587_2.jpg


92 Slingshot

DSCN1372.jpg


Folding Slingshot

Slingshot-Foldtech.jpg


Biomega Brooklyn

PL_71_fetish4_f.jpg


93 Hanebrink Extreme

hanebrink-14.jpg


Biomega MN

biomega_bike_600x400_977.jpg


94 Lotus

lotus.jpg


LOTUS-BIKE-Big-Race-Bolid.jpg


Biomega Bamboo

image-2_ChronosMaxSize.png


Calfee Designs

bamboo-mountain-bike.jpg
 
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Holy crap, you're really good with Google search ;)

J/K!

So it sounds like they're not necessarily bad bikes, but innovative was clearly the wrong way to describe them.

What would you point me towards if I'm looking for is a low, low maintenance commuter? That's how I arrived at Biomega and a few others but I figure you might have some other suggestions for me. Also, it needs to have a big frame.

http://www.commuterbikestore.com/biomega-amsterdam-bike.html
 
One of my pet peeves for bicycles has always been chain-drive. Enclosed shaft drive with internal geared hub makes so much sense for an average commuter bike...other than price of course. But the cleanliness of the design is appealing to me. Ya can't beat the price and efficiency of chain drive though..
 
Ì'm not actually that fond of shaft drive for bicycles, it's just not a very elegant engineering solution. Would go for belt drive if the technology were mature enough.
 
Ì'm not actually that fond of shaft drive for bicycles, it's just not a very elegant engineering solution. Would go for belt drive if the technology were mature enough.

Belt drive is nice too. Again, geared hub. People ask me how to clean chains..I say, I dunno, I just buy a new one.. :) Way too dirty to clean.. Ha!
 
Late to the thread... I think that's a great first bike. Everything on it should be good for some off-road use. More expensive bikes would have better forks, but the spec and components should be fine for getting into the sport.

Also, if you're buying a first bike used, it's good to get one in good condition. There's a lot of specialty tools needed for bike maintenance - definitely no worse than motorcycles, but there's still an art to it. It's nice to spend time riding rather than wrenching.

Good luck man! The bike show is lots of fun as well, but would suggest going early or on Friday - it's super busy.

I agree....Go too cheap and you'll always be fixing or replacing parts instead of riding! (I paid more for my main bicycle then I did for my motorcycle!).
- Good to see you are looking at hardtails, I think they're the best way to learn to ride
Also, you don't have to wait until spring to ride, we ride trails 3-4 times a week year-round. (there is a wet couple of weeks in the spring when we stay off the low/muddy trails)
Check out some of my trail riding photos.... http://www.flickr.com/photos/52755149@N07/sets/72157629476928057/
If anyone wants to try some great 'rocky' trails on the escarpment near Milton, let me know, I'd be glad to show anyone around. We also do a lot of night rides. In fact a bunch of us are meeting tomorrow evening at St. Helena' Rd. , just off HW25, at 7:00pm.
Good luck!.... Mtn biking/trail riding is an awesome sport!
 
I'm not a big Cannondale fan but I like the Bad Boy and Quick lines.

2724566355_440e310849.jpg


cannondale-quick-1-2010-city-bike.jpg


If you want low maintanence and simplicity, look for something with a Shimano Nexus or
Alfine internally geared drivetrain.

Belt drive is to the point I'd feel comfortable with it. You have to remember, it's virtually a single speed unless you find one with a Nexus or Afline, which I haven't seen....yet. Norco makes a decent entry(ish) level one.

norco_judan_belt_2011.jpg
 
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