When you design a thing that uses bearings, you design it around off the shelf bearings. It's cheaper and easier, even for Honda. Bearings are very seldom the limiting factor in a machine.
I just simply entered the year, make and model and whammo the bearings arrived at my door!Excuse me WHAT??
The difference from a c3 to a c4 is radial clearance, the gap between the balls/rollers and the races, and has the same ID and OD. A C3 has more than normal clearance and a C4 has more than C3. C2 is normal, C1 is less than normal. (Don't change clearance unless you know what you're doing).
What makes a 6203-34 different is the "34" suffix
Here's more
The numbering is complicated... it started out with the most popular mid sized imperial sized bearing (all bearings used to be imperial size), which had an ID of 1" and OD of 2" getting converted to metric and it got ASSIGNED the number of 505 (the first number is the bearing configuration) so a metric 505 bearing has a 25mm ID and a 52mm OD. Close enough. The rest of the what became standard metric bearings got assigned numbers as they were produced... and SUPPOSEDLY there is some sort of rhyme and reason to it, but I could never figure it out and I've had the nomenclature explained to me a couple of times.
xxx4 is 20mm ID, xxx3 is 17mm ID... then it goes to ****. The second and third number (and sometimes more) is OD and follows the same sort of nomenclature. problem being is there is a bunch of "non standard" bearings that have to fit into the numbering system and you end up with weird numbers, but the last number is always the ID...and metric
There's some pretty confused bearing sizes out there, Mike's 6203-34 in case, but there's lots of bearings with a imperial OD and metric ID... or vice versa, but it will always be denoted as non standard in the suffix ( a 6203-34 has a 3/4" bore, a 6305-1 has a 1" bore... seeing a pattern here? a 6202-8 has a 1/2" bore... WTF???)
When you work with bearings every day, it SORTA makes sense
I keep a bearing catalogue handy. It's easier.
Just be thankful you don't have to deal with imperial sized bearings.
Excusemewhst? You are correct the Cs are internal clearance differences - but it’s not that simple. This internal clearance on a C3 is greater than a standard bearing when there is no interference fit of the installed bearing. When a a bearing is pressed on or in (interference fit) the OD may be reduced and/or the ID increased as the pressure of the fit stretches or shrinks out all or part of the extra internal clearance.Excuse me WHAT??
The difference from a c3 to a c4 is radial clearance, the gap between the balls/rollers and the races, and has the same ID and OD. A C3 has more than normal clearance and a C4 has more than C3. C2 is normal, C1 is less than normal. (Don't change clearance unless you know what you're doing).
What makes a 6203-34 different is the "34" suffix
Here's more
The numbering is complicated... it started out with the most popular mid sized imperial sized bearing (all bearings used to be imperial size), which had an ID of 1" and OD of 2" getting converted to metric and it got ASSIGNED the number of 505 (the first number is the bearing configuration) so a metric 505 bearing has a 25mm ID and a 52mm OD. Close enough. The rest of the what became standard metric bearings got assigned numbers as they were produced... and SUPPOSEDLY there is some sort of rhyme and reason to it, but I could never figure it out and I've had the nomenclature explained to me a couple of times.
xxx4 is 20mm ID, xxx3 is 17mm ID... then it goes to ****. The second and third number (and sometimes more) is OD and follows the same sort of nomenclature. problem being is there is a bunch of "non standard" bearings that have to fit into the numbering system and you end up with weird numbers, but the last number is always the ID...and metric
There's some pretty confused bearing sizes out there, Mike's 6203-34 in case, but there's lots of bearings with a imperial OD and metric ID... or vice versa, but it will always be denoted as non standard in the suffix ( a 6203-34 has a 3/4" bore, a 6305-1 has a 1" bore... seeing a pattern here? a 6202-8 has a 1/2" bore... WTF???)
When you work with bearings every day, it SORTA makes sense
I keep a bearing catalogue handy. It's easier.
Just be thankful you don't have to deal with imperial sized bearings.
You could buy a bearing puller kit... I got one via Amazon that wasn't very expensive.Any special tools required? Once my stands come in the bike is going up front and rear wheel and I'm going to look for that rubbing / squealing noise that is super faint on the road...but maybe I'll be able to pinpoint it on the stands in a quiet environment.
It doesn’t. But if you press a regular bearing on a shaft, the inner race expands, reducing clearance. Same when you press a bearing oute in, the outer race compresses out some/all the additional clearance. That, and extreme temps heat, main reason for the C variants. There are other obscure reasons too.I don't see how changing the internal clearance on a bearing would change it's fit.
Which one did you buy? There are a bunch on there?You could buy a bearing puller kit... I got one via Amazon that wasn't very expensive.
It worked well and made removal easy.
Install was easy.
I put the new bearings into the freezer for a couple of hours, warmed up the rim a bit with a hot air gun and inserted the bearings and tapped them in using a "bearing tapper inner" tool I bought a PA.
here's a dimension chart -If I'm hoping to graft 72 CB750 front forks on a 83 GL1100 Wing can anyone determine the steering stem shaft sizes based on a Honda part numbers for the upper and lower bearing?
Upper 91015-425-831 (NTN) or 91015-425-832 (Nachi)
Lower 91016-371-000
Wow! Thanks @bitzz750:
Upper: 26 x 48.5 x 15.2
Lower: 30 x 50 x 14.4
Gl:
Upper: 26 x 47 x 15
Lower: 30 x 55 x 17
Grease nipple? If that's in a bearing buddy you won't be able to unscrew it. Those grease fittings run thru a stamped steel cap, they are either press fit and staked, or pipe thread with a custom one use backing nut. You can drill the Zerk out from the back, but finding a replacement might be hard.Wheel bearings. Ugh. My 5x8 enclosed trailer is 2 yrs old now. Thought it would be a good idea to grease the bearings yesterday. Pull the dust cap off and find a broken nipple. Easy out wouldn't budge it. Probably need a reverse drill. Fml.
This is it.Grease nipple? If that's in a bearing buddy you won't be able to unscrew it. Those grease fittings run thru a stamped steel cap, they are either press fit and staked, or pipe thread with a custom one use backing nut. You can drill the Zerk out from the back, but finding a replacement might be hard.
New bearing buddies are cheap, $18 a pair Amazon, sometimes as low as $10/pair at PA.
Is this an axle with the grease nipple threaded into the axleThis is it.
Pre-Greased 3.5K Hub-Drum Kit | K08-247-1G | Dexter Axle Online Store
Pre-Greased 3.5K Hub-Drum Kit(K08-247-1G) - For 3.5K axle, 5 on 4-1/2" Wheel Bolt Center, studded, 1/2"-20, 1.718" seal, greased with bearings, & E-Z Lube® Grease Caps.CLICK HERE TO PURCHASE FROM DEXTER DISTRIBUTION | Hubs, Drums, & Rotors-Pre-Greased Hubs | Dexter Axle Online Storewww.dexteraxle.com
YesIs this an axle with the grease nipple threaded into the axle
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The basic number denotes the bore diameter (ID). How do you know the OD and thickness?
What's the motivation for the graft?If I'm hoping to graft 72 CB750 front forks on a 83 GL1100 Wing can anyone determine the steering stem shaft sizes based on a Honda part numbers for the upper and lower bearing?
Upper 91015-425-831 (NTN) or 91015-425-832 (Nachi)
Lower 91016-371-000