Throw the video on YouTube..
Create a burner account if you don't have one
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Wheel bearings
- Thread starter Fuzzbuster
- Start date
Create a burner account if you don't have one
Fuzzbuster
Well-known member
Ya, I need to do that! I should really be posting stuff there. I am also going to be installing a 360 soon so that will be interesting! I have a insta account with a fair amount of followers, can I link it to youtube?
Code is industry standard some OEM bearings don't have the code on purpose.
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For video, make a free youtube account and post there. For pics, I use imgbb as it's easy and free.
Fuzzbuster
Well-known member
The ones that I ordered I simply put in the bike info. I checked pricing on 2 different sites and they had the same product code and pricing so hopefully they are correct. I will give an update once I receive them and attempt the install! I ordered from fortnine but also checked revco.
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There are VERY few "OEM" (non standard) bearings... in the 50 years I have been screwing around with mechanical stuff I have never met a "OEM" bearing, that is not an off the shelf size. Non standard bearings sorta goes against the design philosophy of what a standard bearing means.
There's lots of bearings that are hard or impossible to get, but they're of a standard size... they just don't make them... and in the 50 years of screwing with stuff, the only HARD stop I have found was main bearings for a CB450/500T, standard size but "different"... I ended up line boring the case for a bearing with a larger outer diameter. Ducati wide case big end bearings are no longer available... so we buy one of larger OD and smash it, to reclaim the rollers, that we install in the cage of the old one... VOILA: new bearing.
I was looking for crank bearings for a TZ250 (they're getting hard to find, so when I find them I buy a bunch) and I found a guy in Arizona that had a SKF on his website... so I called my contact at SKF Canada to get them. So it turns out SKF DOES have that bearing in their catalogue, but they've never made them. (SKF got in touch with the guy in Arizona and he no longer has THAT bearing for sale... now he sells a bearing that says "TZ350" on the side. So is that a "non standard" or a "knock off"? My vote is knock off) (This is why I NEVER buy bearings off the internet)
Yamaha has a bunch of "OEM" crank bearings... but they're a standard bearing with a "PIP" (to keep the bearing from spinning if it seizes) which is a terrible idea, let it seize and spin, instead of that "PIP" ripping big chunks out of the case... just use a standard bearing
Seals are of standard sizes too.
Bearings and seals are usually a LOT cheaper from a bearing house, AND the dealer supplied bearings and seals are usually the cheapest made parts on the market, and the parts at a bearing house are usually better quality
Any special tools required? Once my stands come in the bike is going up front and rear wheel and I'm going to look for that rubbing / squealing noise that is super faint on the road...but maybe I'll be able to pinpoint it on the stands in a quiet environment.
...and it's not difficult.
For removal, it depends on build up in there. You can use a drift/pipe/rod and hammer to drive out the far side bearing or I can lend you a slide hammer but if you use it (or the drift), you have to finish the job, no chickening out as you have screwed the old bearings by impacting the inner race.
To install, a piece of all thread, some nuts and spacers which are slightly smaller than bearing od.
Fuzzbuster
Well-known member
That was my plan. I watched a video of a dude in Europe who uses all kinds of random tools to do the work. He reinstalled using the better of the 2 removed bearings and I think also a socket that matched the bearing size. If I fubar it really bad I have extra rims! But that is not the plan of course!
No special tools required... BUT don't go full mental on trying to remove them. Be as gentle as possible. If you cant/twist the bearing in the hole, get it slightly sideways, you ruin the hole.
Tapa tapa tapa... NOT smash it till it falls out.
NEVER touch a bearing with a hammer or impact gun if you plan on using the bearing. It's OK to hammer them out BUT always press a new one in. Use a press or threaded rod like Mr. Greyghost says, but NEVER put pressure on the cage. If the bearing fits on OD, only put pressure on the outer race. if the bearing fits on ID, only put pressure on the inner race.
Tapa tapa tapa... NOT smash it till it falls out.
NEVER touch a bearing with a hammer or impact gun if you plan on using the bearing. It's OK to hammer them out BUT always press a new one in. Use a press or threaded rod like Mr. Greyghost says, but NEVER put pressure on the cage. If the bearing fits on OD, only put pressure on the outer race. if the bearing fits on ID, only put pressure on the inner race.
Thanks @GreyGhost and @bitzz, I'm hoping it's NOT the bearing that's making the noise...just preparing myself. I have a feeling it could be the brake pads on the front rubbing...but I won't know until it's up in the air.
Fuzzbuster
Well-known member
I fixed another issue that I had concerns about. I had one of those fancy aluminum keyless (useless) race gas caps and found that there was alot of pressure in the tank after a ride. The cap would get stuck on tight and when opened (unscrewed) would spray out a mist of gas. Probably not the best thing to be happening plus it was a nuisance! I have since replaced it with the oem!
Fuzzbuster
Well-known member
SSR
Mad Mike
Well-known member
In intermittent service, deep groove sealed bearings running at their rated capacity should run 4000+ hours -- that's a lot of KMS.I wonder about the rear bearing on the CB300 which is now approaching 70k km and I'm no lightweight. Next check will be next year wondering if I should just get it changed.
Now the dealer did change the cush pads ( ? ) so I would have thought they would check the bearing too.
The steering bearing was changed out and I noticed a difference.
Wondering if I should do both front and back wheel bearing just based on mileage as it looks like I'll be riding it for a good while longer. sigh
Let them sit long enough to dry up, corrode, or get them dirty and your mileage will vary.
The basic number denotes the bore diameter (ID). How do you know the OD and thickness?
Mad Mike
Well-known member
The quick reference above is not a complete guide, it only references their product line. The ID is in the product code, sort of, there are modifiers that alter the ID. For example, a 6203 2RS has a 17mm ID, but a 6203 2RS 34 has a 3/4” bore. A suffix C3 or C4 increases ID by .03 to 0.05mm.
I like SKFs website. If you know the bearing number you can get detailed specs. Of call any bearing house, the desk staff know each bearing by it’s specs or name.
Excuse me WHAT??
The difference from a c3 to a c4 is radial clearance, the gap between the balls/rollers and the races, and has the same ID and OD. A C3 has more than normal clearance and a C4 has more than C3. C2 is normal, C1 is less than normal. (Don't change clearance unless you know what you're doing).
What makes a 6203-34 different is the "34" suffix
Here's more
The numbering is complicated... it started out with the most popular mid sized imperial sized bearing (all bearings used to be imperial size), which had an ID of 1" and OD of 2" getting converted to metric and it got ASSIGNED the number of 505 (the first number is the bearing configuration) so a metric 505 bearing has a 25mm ID and a 52mm OD. Close enough. The rest of the what became standard metric bearings got assigned numbers as they were produced... and SUPPOSEDLY there is some sort of rhyme and reason to it, but I could never figure it out and I've had the nomenclature explained to me a couple of times.
xxx4 is 20mm ID, xxx3 is 17mm ID... then it goes to ****. The second and third number (and sometimes more) is OD and follows the same sort of nomenclature. problem being is there is a bunch of "non standard" bearings that have to fit into the numbering system and you end up with weird numbers, but the last number is always the ID...and metric
There's some pretty confused bearing sizes out there, Mike's 6203-34 in case, but there's lots of bearings with a imperial OD and metric ID... or vice versa, but it will always be denoted as non standard in the suffix ( a 6203-34 has a 3/4" bore, a 6305-1 has a 1" bore... seeing a pattern here? a 6202-8 has a 1/2" bore... WTF???)
When you work with bearings every day, it SORTA makes sense
I keep a bearing catalogue handy. It's easier.
Just be thankful you don't have to deal with imperial sized bearings.
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