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Wheel bearings

Excuse me WHAT??
The difference from a c3 to a c4 is radial clearance, the gap between the balls/rollers and the races, and has the same ID and OD. A C3 has more than normal clearance and a C4 has more than C3. C2 is normal, C1 is less than normal. (Don't change clearance unless you know what you're doing).
What makes a 6203-34 different is the "34" suffix

Here's more
The numbering is complicated... it started out with the most popular mid sized imperial sized bearing (all bearings used to be imperial size), which had an ID of 1" and OD of 2" getting converted to metric and it got ASSIGNED the number of 505 (the first number is the bearing configuration) so a metric 505 bearing has a 25mm ID and a 52mm OD. Close enough. The rest of the what became standard metric bearings got assigned numbers as they were produced... and SUPPOSEDLY there is some sort of rhyme and reason to it, but I could never figure it out and I've had the nomenclature explained to me a couple of times.
xxx4 is 20mm ID, xxx3 is 17mm ID... then it goes to ****. The second and third number (and sometimes more) is OD and follows the same sort of nomenclature. problem being is there is a bunch of "non standard" bearings that have to fit into the numbering system and you end up with weird numbers, but the last number is always the ID...and metric
There's some pretty confused bearing sizes out there, Mike's 6203-34 in case, but there's lots of bearings with a imperial OD and metric ID... or vice versa, but it will always be denoted as non standard in the suffix ( a 6203-34 has a 3/4" bore, a 6305-1 has a 1" bore... seeing a pattern here? a 6202-8 has a 1/2" bore... WTF???)
When you work with bearings every day, it SORTA makes sense
I keep a bearing catalogue handy. It's easier.
Just be thankful you don't have to deal with imperial sized bearings.
I just simply entered the year, make and model and whammo the bearings arrived at my door!
 
Excuse me WHAT??
The difference from a c3 to a c4 is radial clearance, the gap between the balls/rollers and the races, and has the same ID and OD. A C3 has more than normal clearance and a C4 has more than C3. C2 is normal, C1 is less than normal. (Don't change clearance unless you know what you're doing).
What makes a 6203-34 different is the "34" suffix

Here's more
The numbering is complicated... it started out with the most popular mid sized imperial sized bearing (all bearings used to be imperial size), which had an ID of 1" and OD of 2" getting converted to metric and it got ASSIGNED the number of 505 (the first number is the bearing configuration) so a metric 505 bearing has a 25mm ID and a 52mm OD. Close enough. The rest of the what became standard metric bearings got assigned numbers as they were produced... and SUPPOSEDLY there is some sort of rhyme and reason to it, but I could never figure it out and I've had the nomenclature explained to me a couple of times.
xxx4 is 20mm ID, xxx3 is 17mm ID... then it goes to ****. The second and third number (and sometimes more) is OD and follows the same sort of nomenclature. problem being is there is a bunch of "non standard" bearings that have to fit into the numbering system and you end up with weird numbers, but the last number is always the ID...and metric
There's some pretty confused bearing sizes out there, Mike's 6203-34 in case, but there's lots of bearings with a imperial OD and metric ID... or vice versa, but it will always be denoted as non standard in the suffix ( a 6203-34 has a 3/4" bore, a 6305-1 has a 1" bore... seeing a pattern here? a 6202-8 has a 1/2" bore... WTF???)
When you work with bearings every day, it SORTA makes sense
I keep a bearing catalogue handy. It's easier.
Just be thankful you don't have to deal with imperial sized bearings.
Excusemewhst? You are correct the Cs are internal clearance differences - but it’s not that simple. This internal clearance on a C3 is greater than a standard bearing when there is no interference fit of the installed bearing. When a a bearing is pressed on or in (interference fit) the OD may be reduced and/or the ID increased as the pressure of the fit stretches or shrinks out all or part of the extra internal clearance.

There are other reasons for using C1-4 bearing's, that are not interference fit, (high/low heat, speed, lifespan, ergonomics…). In these cases the ID and OD would not be different. A lot of MC applications are interference fit.

There are also prefixes that denote materials, for instance a stainless 6203 might be listed as, SS6203, S6203, 6203 S.
 
Any special tools required? Once my stands come in the bike is going up front and rear wheel and I'm going to look for that rubbing / squealing noise that is super faint on the road...but maybe I'll be able to pinpoint it on the stands in a quiet environment.
You could buy a bearing puller kit... I got one via Amazon that wasn't very expensive.
It worked well and made removal easy.
Install was easy.
I put the new bearings into the freezer for a couple of hours, warmed up the rim a bit with a hot air gun and inserted the bearings and tapped them in using a "bearing tapper inner" tool I bought a PA.
 
I don't see how changing the internal clearance on a bearing would change it's fit.
It doesn’t. But if you press a regular bearing on a shaft, the inner race expands, reducing clearance. Same when you press a bearing oute in, the outer race compresses out some/all the additional clearance. That, and extreme temps heat, main reason for the C variants. There are other obscure reasons too.

If you compressing a standard bearing on both sides it can bind, which increases starting force, rolling resistance, and reduces top speed, capacity and lifespan. Mileage varies by application, no big deal in an office chair wheel, may be a big deal on a motor shaft running 20,000 rpm.
 
Wheel bearings. Ugh. My 5x8 enclosed trailer is 2 yrs old now. Thought it would be a good idea to grease the bearings yesterday. Pull the dust cap off and find a broken nipple. Easy out wouldn't budge it. Probably need a reverse drill. Fml.
 
You could buy a bearing puller kit... I got one via Amazon that wasn't very expensive.
It worked well and made removal easy.
Install was easy.
I put the new bearings into the freezer for a couple of hours, warmed up the rim a bit with a hot air gun and inserted the bearings and tapped them in using a "bearing tapper inner" tool I bought a PA.
Which one did you buy? There are a bunch on there?
 
If I'm hoping to graft 72 CB750 front forks on a 83 GL1100 Wing can anyone determine the steering stem shaft sizes based on a Honda part numbers for the upper and lower bearing?
Upper 91015-425-831 (NTN) or 91015-425-832 (Nachi)
Lower 91016-371-000
 
If I'm hoping to graft 72 CB750 front forks on a 83 GL1100 Wing can anyone determine the steering stem shaft sizes based on a Honda part numbers for the upper and lower bearing?
Upper 91015-425-831 (NTN) or 91015-425-832 (Nachi)
Lower 91016-371-000
here's a dimension chart -

 
750:
Upper: 26 x 48.5 x 15.2
Lower: 30 x 50 x 14.4
Gl:
Upper: 26 x 47 x 15
Lower: 30 x 55 x 17
Wow! Thanks @bitzz
Looks like the stems have the same ODs. The outside dimensions of the neck of the frame look like the stems could be similar in length. This is very promising. Thanks again.
 
Wheel bearings. Ugh. My 5x8 enclosed trailer is 2 yrs old now. Thought it would be a good idea to grease the bearings yesterday. Pull the dust cap off and find a broken nipple. Easy out wouldn't budge it. Probably need a reverse drill. Fml.
Grease nipple? If that's in a bearing buddy you won't be able to unscrew it. Those grease fittings run thru a stamped steel cap, they are either press fit and staked, or pipe thread with a custom one use backing nut. You can drill the Zerk out from the back, but finding a replacement might be hard.

New bearing buddies are cheap, $18 a pair Amazon, sometimes as low as $10/pair at PA.

 
Grease nipple? If that's in a bearing buddy you won't be able to unscrew it. Those grease fittings run thru a stamped steel cap, they are either press fit and staked, or pipe thread with a custom one use backing nut. You can drill the Zerk out from the back, but finding a replacement might be hard.

New bearing buddies are cheap, $18 a pair Amazon, sometimes as low as $10/pair at PA.

This is it.
 
This is it.
Is this an axle with the grease nipple threaded into the axle

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
 
The basic number denotes the bore diameter (ID). How do you know the OD and thickness?

You have to look it up in a chart. All of the bearing manufacturers have one (and given the industry-standardisation, they all contain the same information, although some might be easier to use than others).
 
If I'm hoping to graft 72 CB750 front forks on a 83 GL1100 Wing can anyone determine the steering stem shaft sizes based on a Honda part numbers for the upper and lower bearing?
Upper 91015-425-831 (NTN) or 91015-425-832 (Nachi)
Lower 91016-371-000
What's the motivation for the graft?

Standard GL1100 dual disks had a hard time stopping the bike, the vented Aspencades were a touch better. I couldn't lockup CB750 single disk on my CB750.
 
When the world gives you lemons , make lemonaid. Turns out the Wings I bought were too much work to make road worthy so I'm building another Wing based drag bike.
Trying to lighten up the front end some. There's plenty of run off past the trap to slow a Wing down even with iffy brakes.....
 
Well, it appears the suspect bearing is the unsealed sprocket carrier bearing. I took the wheel off again to start the job and fingered all the bearings. The wheel bearings are super smooth, the sprocket carrier bearing is rough. I believe the rims and bearings are low mileage because it appears there has only been one tire change. I have several sets of these rims and carriers. I think I mixed up a higher mileage carrier with low mileage rims. So I am going to switch out the carrier bearings and test it out to see if that solves the issue.
 

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