What did you do to your Race/Track Bike today - 2014

Great job, dricked! Looks awesome. See ya on the weekend (VRRA period 4 is an invitational class, and I'm in).
 
As far as slippers in LE.....I interpretted it as this: As soon as bikes become eligible due to their age, and those bikes came OEM from the factory with a slipper, then retrofitting any other bikes in the class was allowed.
Maybe I am wrong?
If Lost Era is to be seen as a vintage class, then "period correct" should be okay? Being that 2003 is LE's newest eligible model year, and Kawi ZX6RR had one that yr, making it period correct to have one..... I just sold an STM, but if I were to have kept an R6, I intended to add it this yr specifically because of the ZX6RR becoming eligible this yr.
 
caboose56 said:
So why does BOTT/Superbike/600 say a slipper clutch is permitted if simply not mentioning it means it's permitted?


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caboose56 said:
If you choose to ignore a pattern that's clearly visible with how the rules are written then say "it doesn't say you can't" then there's nothing more to discuss here.
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I'll just quote myself a few times in response to that.



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the rule book doesnt mention things like steering dampeners, gearing changes and things like that. bending the rule book is part of racing.

i dont have a slipper clutch in my bike so banning them in lost era would benefit me. i still dont have an issue with them.
 
twostroke said:
the rule book doesnt mention things like steering dampers, gearing changes and things like that. bending the rule book is part of racing.

i dont have a slipper clutch in my bike so banning them in lost era would benefit me. i still dont have an issue with them.
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Yes it does.
 
Today I called Scott Miller at Fast Company and made an appointment to take my ZX-6R in for a proper tune and a properly fabricated mid-pipe to muffler reducer pipe. It's very choked and has a serious flat spot around 12-13k RPM (the heart of the power band...) with the new muffler and reducer pipe. It was previously tuned for U4 in California so the elevation and fuel type was quite different. It seems to have been running very strongly for the last 2 seasons but it has no doubt been wrong ever since it left California.
 
Today I changed the spark plugs in preparation for dyno tuning. Does anybody know any special tricks to getting the coil caps off and back on? Or is it just an exercise in frustration and sore fingers?
 
A dab of dielectric grease when installing the coils goes a long way but ya they're a struggle and unless you want to pry up under where the connector attaches and risk breaking the plastic there's no easy way.
 
I'm just going to go out on a limb here and say don't put dielectric grease anywhere on a sparkplug physical electric connection.

It should only go on the inside of the rubber boot / porcelain interface.

Its not for greasing metal-metal conductive connections.
 
Sanded some glazed brake pads and rotors, changed the brake fluid.
 
eel said:
I'm just going to go out on a limb here and say don't put dielectric grease anywhere on a sparkplug physical electric connection.

It should only go on the inside of the rubber boot / porcelain interface.

Its not for greasing metal-metal conductive connections.
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Well some things you don't think need explaining but this is gtam lol.

I also used my fancy new rotor hone to clean up my rotors, installed new pads, and changed the oil.

Todays list is to change the gearing, and record all my suspension settings from last weekend at bogie so I don't loose them.
 
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It seems that the bulk of the difficulty is getting the spring loaded wire to come off and go back onto the electrode. I could put a tiny bit of grease on the insulator and the top of the coil where it pushes into the valve cover, for sure that would help. Looking at the plugs that came out, the threads on the electrode are quite gnarled from the contact wire. It seems very tight on this bike, which is good I suppose, but causes excessive swearing. LOL
 
Oh, another thing. Does anybody have a favourite brand of spark plug socket? I've got a bunch of different ones and none of them are snug enough to hold the insulator. I have to use a magnet stick to get the plug out and every new plug fell out of the socket down into the hole, which obviously could knock the ground lug and "adjust" the gap.
 
Just put a piece of electrical tape on the socket, it takes up the small bit of space and will hold the spark plug securely.
 
Your best bet is to print their rule book - All the details are there.
Mina said:
Can somebody tell me what exactly needs to be safety wired for RACE?
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It should be in the rule book.

Which BTW is the same rulebook for both racing venues now (or so we were told), so why should anyone have to do anything new/different for shannonville?
 
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