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What did you do to your Race/Track Bike today - 2014
- Thread starter ZX600
- Start date
Not really, just trying to help the guy out sometimes with some common sense
Mikey moto with Jamie's money
Mikey moto with Jamie's money
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hotshotmikeyboy
Well-known member
i really hope my comments don't offend anyone here .... But a rear rotor isn't going stop your motorcycle in a racing scenario . While the rear carbon rotor is cold , the stopping power is very progressive. When they get hot it's more of an on /off switch effect you get from using your rear brake using the rear carbon rotor. This is the main reason MotoGP stopped using these rear carbon rotors in the late 80's early 90's. (Pretty sure Mick Doohan will tell you why you shouldn't use the rear brake at all while braking hard into a turn especially with a carbon rear rotor) The Carbon rear rotor is meant for reducing unsprung weight, and rotational mass . And as overrated as you think carbon fiber is , the rotor is just under 0.2 lbs That's almost 2lbs +\- off of a stock rear rotor and a bit more on most aftermarket rear rotors. Find another material stronger, lighter and cheaper and I'm sure something can be done ........ We see people using exotic and costly hardware like titanium to reduce weight of wheels and unsprung weight costing well over double the price of the rear rotor to save a fraction of the weight , where typical weight savings on newer model supersport motorcycles were under 0.4lbs of weight savings when switching to Ti fasteners . im not going to give a lecture about the benefits of how less unsprung weight and and less rotational mass will aid with many different aspects of your bikes handling , acceleration , and braking , or give formulas that can keep going on for days. but for people not looking to change costly engine internals to make the bike "faster" , or expensive suspension upgrades to help your bike feel "better" on the track , reducing the weight of your race bike is the next best thing, if not the first thing to be considered.
sorry for the rambling , I hope this doesn't offend anyone that has posted prior to this.
sorry for the rambling , I hope this doesn't offend anyone that has posted prior to this.
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Xrayhonda
Well-known member
Very hesitant to make a comment but what the hell, I’m a newbie and I hope you guys will give me some slack with my comments. Its sound like the most important this is weight lost and he’s achieving it by using the carbon rear rotor, it might be very expensive but if he has the cash and its safe, what the problem. I’m sure there are other things he could have spent the money on but remember it’s what’s important to him, and weigh lost is one of them. Hell I would do anything to reduce the weight of my bike, and its not to go fast, its because the bike is just heavy; I’m not the tallest nor the strongest person, so reducing weight is major for me, just don’t’ have the cash.lol
You know, that's actually a good point. Taking what Mikey just said into account, the cold rear brake being very progressive and not grabby would be nice in the motocross zone, in the event of an unscheduled cross-country tour.
You're right, it's totally his choice to do what he wants. We just like to hack on Jamie.
He's been around a long time, he must have thick skin by now. LOLPS, why are you using a custom colour and font in your messages? FYI that sometimes, depending on theme colours, that can cause your text to be hard to see.
skapan
Well-known member
There's another scenario - if your stock rear rotor is grooved or worn beyond repair, MikeyMoto's carbon rotor is WAY cheaper than a stock replacement. He also sells a lightweight slotted stainless version for those that are carbon averse. Just a thought, and another way to justify.
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hotshotmikeyboy
Well-known member
The carbon rotors no. The rear ultralight MMR stainless rotors yes. Jodi Christie , Kris Garvie , Louie Raffa, Marcel Irnie (just to name a few)have been using them in Canada and the USA for the past 3-4 years in nationals and regional levels of competition. These guys have all enjoyed podium finishes and championships too using these parts and aren't exactly known as the "slower" guys
racepro171
Well-known member
unless its a mix of ceramic and carbon, pressed with huge tons, its not a functioning carbon rotor. Best of my knowledge is only 1 manufacture does carbon rotors for gp. quality control. squidsskins made me one for SANFORD and i had to use it in the grass, it did nothing but score up, carbon pads too. I now use titanium rears.
And as for Doc on the boxer???? i think this year some people will be shocked. take a look at some of the times he has done on it. just keeps getting faster. he should be up to pro600 soon.
And as for Doc on the boxer???? i think this year some people will be shocked. take a look at some of the times he has done on it. just keeps getting faster. he should be up to pro600 soon.
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Yep was only referring to the carbon rear.
I know BrakeTech makes a carbon type front rotor, they're very pricey though.
Not allowed in csbk? Guess Jamie will have to sell the rotor
This used to be my signature, but Paulo didn't like it.
Todd929
Well-known member
Installed quick change kit on the front tire.
No more removing calipers, no more removing pinch bolts...
Just got to get the magnets on the brake pads
How did you do this? Make something yourself or did you buy a kit? Very interesting. Thanks T
cdog
Well-known member
I've been at a stand still for a few weeks but I managed to get a shift rod of the correct length so the new Dynojet QS sensor is installed. I cut the connector off the Kit harness so I can replace it with the Dynojet connector then connect the QS to the Kit harness.
After that I still need to install the manual CCT then I can winch it out of the basement and fill the cooling system and hopefully go for a test ride before taking it for some dyno time.
After that I still need to install the manual CCT then I can winch it out of the basement and fill the cooling system and hopefully go for a test ride before taking it for some dyno time.
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Not specifically but I did trim back and zip tie the intakes together for a better fit when installing the nose.
Make sure your bodywork is warm, helps stretch it back out. It curls inwards when not installed. Patience is key, and also make sure it's installed correctly. I once watched someone try to install an upper fairing at the track with the snorkels upside down...
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