Some heat is better than none. Torch will be far hotter and more concentrated than a heat gun. Another trick is to put the bit in the heat and tap it with a hammer. That shock both sets the bit all the way in and can loosen up a stuck bolt.
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What did you do in your garage today..?
- Thread starter Hack
- Start date
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Threadlocker will be loosened with a moderate amount of heat, a propane torch will do.
Getting stuck bolts out is never fun. Here's my approach:
1) Heat. Use a propane torch on the bolt to relax threadlocker. PB Blaster (or any penetrating fluid) can be helpful, but it's not magic.
2) Impact. A swift strike using a punch, or whack the end of your screwdriver. This helps break loose galled or corroded threads
3) Impact wrench. A light impact gun (battery) or a hand impact driver.
If the head is stripped and you're heading to last resorts, I follow these steps:
4) If it's an Allen head, pound a tight fitting torx bit into the hole. If it's a torx or JIS or Philips, drill into the head then pound in the torx. I find this way better than reverse thread extractors. Repeat steps 1-2-3.
5) If that fails, I bring out the MIG. Take a hex head bold (grade 5 or lower), and cut it so it's just long enough for one end to tough the bad bolt head. Drill lengthwise thru the bold so the mig wire can get thru the hole to weld the 2 bolts together. Weld. This is tricky, but it almost always works as the heat from the welding helps.
There are also 'Easy Out' tools that drill a reverse thread and then insert a hardened tool that is designed to grip and remove stuck bolts. They are by no means 'easy', and more times than not I've made things worse when using them.
Good luck!
Put some engine guards I bought off of Marketplace on tonight. They fit. It wasn't easy, even though all the mounting points were pre threaded by Triumph. They were Hepco-Becker bars, so they never mentioned that there were pre done holes, or that said holes had black plastic plugs in them. I had to find them by chance. They also didn't say that said holes had lots of pipes, hoses etc. in the way making the documented installation process impossible. i.e. using a rachet with extension and hex head driver. The space was too tight, I could barely get fingers in. Not sure how they intended me to get a torque wrench on to tighten them to spec. I did it by feel. Next step should be highway pegs.
Sexy new boots arrived......
They will be dropped off with the wheels when I leave for vacation at the beginning August.
They will be dropped off with the wheels when I leave for vacation at the beginning August.
Nice.
The Hyper needs a new rear. They had OEM Supercorsa SPs which are overkill for what I need (no track... yet).
Thinking about the Rossos - heard they provide similar street performance with much better life. How many kms are you getting out of a rear?
14,000kms on the bike now.
Pretty much through the wear bars at this point. I am doing the front as well because the shape is a little funky which became much more obvious once I had the new one and old one side by side.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I've had good luck with Hepco Becker... except for their shittie fasteners. I have their racks on 2 bikes, all their fasteners went rusty orange after 1 season. I changes regular nuts and bolts for stainless, but the big custom fasteners had to be removed, cleaned and rust painted.
I like this approach too, only I'm fine using a hammer directly on the head of the bolt.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I like steel punches and steel bar, I find it easier to deliver a solid blow. Also reduces the chance of rounding or bending bolts.
Yes , some times a punch helps locate a solid blow.
Honda? Crappy 4 series stainless steel. Use lots of lube to keep it cool.
Now you want a countersink drill
I love a multiflute countersink set into a handle (like a screwdriver). 1/4 turn in each hole.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Im guessing this was done by hand (vs CNC), can you layout the steps? Did you use a pattern? Drill sizes? Drill press?
Yup totally old's cool. I used a compass and protractor to lay out the pattern on paper. Theres a hole every 5 degrees. Hole sizes 3/16, 1/4 and 5/16. Laid that over the discs and used one of those center punches you push down and they pop. Then off to the drill press. My cheapo cantire gold plated drills worked fine. Oddly I required no lube.
They are off an early CB750. It's possible Honda used them on a Wing. That said my 86 GL12 had vented discs.
It would be good to finish with a flex home. I have an old one you could borrow.
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