Nice!
I love Pazzos. Local company just over on the coast. I have their levers on all my bikes!
Shorties, of course!
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What did you do in your garage today..?
- Thread starter Hack
- Start date
Nice!
I love Pazzos. Local company just over on the coast. I have their levers on all my bikes!
Shorties, of course!
Are you using your bike trailer for work? What kind of blasphemy is this. Work is supposed to pay so you can write it off but that doesn't mean the tools get to use it.Built a platform above where the bike will sit in the v-nose last week.
Built another one today to store tools/camp gear.
Its all off e-track and their 2x4 brackets.
Really frees up floor space.
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I'd probably put something like a pool noodle between the table saw and roof to keep it from bouncing.
matt365
Well-known member
Both. Work and play.
There's more space above the table saw than it looks. The noodle is a good idea though.
Packing to bring tools to a friends place, 2 1/2h away. Got to do his bathroom, and laundry room. I need to bring every tool I have.
I also need to bring the bike. Can't work all the time.
Had to put an 8" strip of plywood at the back. Sudden stop could launch the tools.
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The local shop keeps pushing these every time I come in to buy new shoes, so I decided to give them a try to see if they're any good.
They're a line of tires called Gummies which are made of super-soft, sticky rubber which the hard enduro guys all run. It specializes in loose soil, roots and rocks. I normally run wider-spaced knobbies which clears mud easily and gives good grip in sand.
This model is the MotoZ Mountain Hybrid Gummy, supposedly has a long life and although it looks like a trials-type tread, it's good for all terrain. But the lugs are pretty tight, I may come to regret that later on in sticky mud or sand? But I've been running on worn tires for so long, this is going to be a step up in every way.
They're a line of tires called Gummies which are made of super-soft, sticky rubber which the hard enduro guys all run. It specializes in loose soil, roots and rocks. I normally run wider-spaced knobbies which clears mud easily and gives good grip in sand.
This model is the MotoZ Mountain Hybrid Gummy, supposedly has a long life and although it looks like a trials-type tread, it's good for all terrain. But the lugs are pretty tight, I may come to regret that later on in sticky mud or sand? But I've been running on worn tires for so long, this is going to be a step up in every way.
The rear looks like a Dunlop trials tire.The local shop keeps pushing these every time I come in to buy new shoes, so I decided to give them a try to see if they're any good.
They're a line of tires called Gummies which are made of super-soft, sticky rubber which the hard enduro guys all run. It specializes in loose soil, roots and rocks. I normally run wider-spaced knobbies which clears mud easily and gives good grip in sand.
This model is the MotoZ Mountain Hybrid Gummy, supposedly has a long life and although it looks like a trials-type tread, it's good for all terrain. But the lugs are pretty tight, I may come to regret that later on in sticky mud or sand? But I've been running on worn tires for so long, this is going to be a step up in every way.
So I investigated the "loose handlebars" at higher speeds or slight wobble when pressing the handle bars left to right a little. The suspicion was that the head bearing nuts were loose.
I do not believe they were tightened to spec as you can clearly see the butchery by the PO or his mechanic . Marks from a hammer and flat head screw driver. To the point that the the top 2 threads on the stem are actually damaged. I don't like it but I will have to live with it as a replacement is $415. I will replace all other damaged parts. Both nuts , upper steering cover and dust seal.
I am not sure if the bearing is actually complete. I took it out and it it looks OK but there might be a ring missing comparing it to google search of the same part number. I did not take a picture down the column of the frame where the stem goes through. I will take everything apart again when I get more time before ordered the damaged parts.
Everything is reassembled again and tomorrow is test day.
Few pics of the investigation.
Damaged threads on stem.
Punctured cover and dust seal
Bearing
Google version of the bearing with outer ring. Possible that it stayed in the column but I cannot confirm.
If it was missing would the bearing not come loose?
I do not believe they were tightened to spec as you can clearly see the butchery by the PO or his mechanic . Marks from a hammer and flat head screw driver. To the point that the the top 2 threads on the stem are actually damaged. I don't like it but I will have to live with it as a replacement is $415. I will replace all other damaged parts. Both nuts , upper steering cover and dust seal.
I am not sure if the bearing is actually complete. I took it out and it it looks OK but there might be a ring missing comparing it to google search of the same part number. I did not take a picture down the column of the frame where the stem goes through. I will take everything apart again when I get more time before ordered the damaged parts.
Everything is reassembled again and tomorrow is test day.
Few pics of the investigation.
Damaged threads on stem.
Punctured cover and dust seal
Bearing
Google version of the bearing with outer ring. Possible that it stayed in the column but I cannot confirm.
If it was missing would the bearing not come loose?
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A bearing requires two (normally hardened) races for the elements to roll on. The outer race should be stuck in the frame. If you have no outer race, I doubt the bike would be rideable.
Thank you. I thought that was the case.
Hopefully tightening the nuts to spec was the culprit and I have fixed it. Test ride tomorrow will tell. Than order damaged parts.
I am still trying to figure out why the PO needed to butcher the cover and nuts, or why he was ever disabling the stem assembly on a 1 year old bike with less then 15K on it?
I may just give him a call and ask as I still have his number.
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I wouldn't be an ass about it. Just more out of curiosity and maybe get some more background info on the reasoning. Maybe there is more to it.
He was a very nice guy actually so I doubt he would have a problem with it.
I actually did message him a few weeks after bringing the bike home asking if the bike was dropped in the garage as I only then saw some scuff marks on the factory lower crash bars.
He did confirm that he tipped it over in his garage.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
ATV day in the garage... again.
Made studs to replace header socket screws (dumbest idea ever Polaris). Installed new gaskets and all is quiet.
Installed new rear master, cleaned carb, fluid service, changed a bunch of rusty fairing and chassis bolts, changed fog lights over t⁰o LED, headlightvto Zenon. My taps were busy.
Last owner claimed "new ujoints all around"., I guess he forgot the hidden front props shaft. Ordered parts.
Ditched the wrap idea... a bit harder than it looks. Gonna use the wrap vinyl to redo factory graphics.
ATV day in the garage... again. Noticed the exhaust header bolt holes were all messy, 2 others cross threaded. Had to pull out the helicoil kit. 2 went in fine (M8), the last had to be changed to M10, it looked like someone tried extract the broken and really buggered the hole.
Made studs to replace header socket screws (dumbest idea ever Polaris). Installed new gaskets and all is quiet.
Installed new rear master, cleaned carb, fluid service, changed a bunch of rusty fairing and chassis bolts, changed fog lights over t⁰o LED, headlightvto Zenon. My taps were busy.
Last owner claimed "new ujoints all around"., I guess he forgot the hidden front props shaft. Ordered parts.
Ditched the wrap idea... a bit harder than it looks. Gonna use the wrap vinyl to redo factory graphics.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
The pics are different bearings. The oe is a ball bearing, the replacement is a tapered bearing. The OE has 3 parts, lower race, ball cage and upper race. The latter is a 2pc tapered bearing, cup (race) and cone which is an integrated roller cage and race.
Most OE are roller as they are lighter and cheaper and the tight kind of bearing. Most replacements are tapered which are technically overkill, but great replacements because they are simpler, last if not maintained, and the extra $2 in material cost is irrelevant in replacement parts.
The standard rollers should last years and on a road bike if maintained as recommended. I have only replaced head bearings on dirt bikes and very poorly maintained street bikes.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
The pics are different bearings. The oe is a ball bearing, the replacement is a tapered bearing. The OE has 3 parts, lower race, ball cage and upper race. The latter is a 2pc tapered bearing, cup (race) and cone which is an integrated roller cage and race.
Most OE are roller as they are lighter and cheaper and the tight kind of bearing. Most replacements are tapered which are technically overkill, but great replacements because they are simpler, last if not maintained, and the extra $2 in material cost is irrelevant in replacement parts.
The standard rollers should last years and on a road bike if maintained as recommended. I have only replaced head bearings on dirt bikes and
Is it a Suzuki SV or DL?
I've seen owners attach head bearings looking to eliminate a harmless minor suspension clunk that is common to both bikes.
Malks
Well-known member
I installed replacement (used) front calipers on the ST and bled the front and rear brakes.
Last month when I removed the wheels to replace the tires, I checked the brakes and noticed the front pads were worn past the point where they should have been replaced. Normally it's an easy job; all you do is remove the pad retaining pins and the pads drop out. Well not this time. Those pins are completely seized and refused to budge. After rounding off the hex drive on the pins I tried everything I could think of but had no luck getting them out. I gave up and bought replacement calipers from eBay.
The replacement calipers needed some cleaning and lubrication, but both retaining pins were easily removed. I popped in the new pads, installed new pins from Honda (after applying some anti-seize compound) and swapped the calipers on the bike. The old brake fluid was, well very old, and most of it leaked onto a tray when the banjo bolts were removed. New fluid replaced the old in the front, so I figured why not do the rear while I'm at it.
Test ride today to check my work and finally scrub in the new tires.
Edit: All went well with the test ride and the brakes work great. My riding buddy stopped by a few days later and asked if he could have a go at the old calipers. I said knock yourself out and I didn't care if he damaged them because they were of no use to me as they were. A couple of days later he shows up again with the calipers. He was able to drill out most or all of the pins and with heat and easy-outs was able to remove the pins. No damage at all to the housings so I can either keep them as spares, or sell them to some other ST-Owner having the same problem.
Last month when I removed the wheels to replace the tires, I checked the brakes and noticed the front pads were worn past the point where they should have been replaced. Normally it's an easy job; all you do is remove the pad retaining pins and the pads drop out. Well not this time. Those pins are completely seized and refused to budge. After rounding off the hex drive on the pins I tried everything I could think of but had no luck getting them out. I gave up and bought replacement calipers from eBay.
The replacement calipers needed some cleaning and lubrication, but both retaining pins were easily removed. I popped in the new pads, installed new pins from Honda (after applying some anti-seize compound) and swapped the calipers on the bike. The old brake fluid was, well very old, and most of it leaked onto a tray when the banjo bolts were removed. New fluid replaced the old in the front, so I figured why not do the rear while I'm at it.
Test ride today to check my work and finally scrub in the new tires.
Edit: All went well with the test ride and the brakes work great. My riding buddy stopped by a few days later and asked if he could have a go at the old calipers. I said knock yourself out and I didn't care if he damaged them because they were of no use to me as they were. A couple of days later he shows up again with the calipers. He was able to drill out most or all of the pins and with heat and easy-outs was able to remove the pins. No damage at all to the housings so I can either keep them as spares, or sell them to some other ST-Owner having the same problem.
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2020 DL1050XA
Any recommendation for tapered bearing??
OEM part #17
09267-30010
BEARING (30X55X17)
and
Part # 3
09267-30010
...BEARING (30X55X17)
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Y
OE bearings should last years -- My DL has about 70K and I've adjusted them once.
1) Buy the OE kit. This is the easiest to install and setup.
2) Buy an AllBalls kit 22-1003 - around $60
3) Buy 2 x 32006x tapered bearings and 2 x SBS5 seal from any bearing house (that's what's in the AllBalls kit). Probably $30.
I prefer OE style ball bearings. Tapered bearings will last longer and need less adjustments, but they are a little trickier to setup.
If you change to tapered bearings, they get torqued beyond spec to properly seat, somewhere around 35lbs. Then you back them off a full turn, then forward to make your fine adjustments. There should be 250-500g of force to move the steering at the bar end, the bars should not move on their own.
You have a few choices -- I'd try setting up your existing bearings to be sure they need replacing. When head bearings cannot be adjusted to eliminate play, if they are grinding, or uneven force is needed to move lock to lock they should be replaced. Otherwise, just lube and adjust.
OE bearings should last years -- My DL has about 70K and I've adjusted them once.
1) Buy the OE kit. This is the easiest to install and setup.
2) Buy an AllBalls kit 22-1003 - around $60
3) Buy 2 x 32006x tapered bearings and 2 x SBS5 seal from any bearing house (that's what's in the AllBalls kit). Probably $30.
I prefer OE style ball bearings. Tapered bearings will last longer and need less adjustments, but they are a little trickier to setup.
If you change to tapered bearings, they get torqued beyond spec to properly seat, somewhere around 35lbs. Then you back them off a full turn, then forward to make your fine adjustments. There should be 250-500g of force to move the steering at the bar end, the bars should not move on their own.
Just an fyi, you can get replacement brake calipers that come with 4-6 pads (fronts and rears) for around $25 on Amazon for those Polaris ATV's and fitment is spot-on.
Pulled the SUV into the shop as the front brakes seem to be seized (vehicle down on power, front brakes hotter than they should be). One pot on each front caliper seized so ordered a new pair. Had a engine light pop up last week when I started it up and it had trouble idling. Was fine after I cleared it but there was two crank position sensor codes from it so added one of those in the same order just in case. Everything is 15yrs old and small stuff is popping up but parts are cheap and easy to replace. Not including brakes/tires/oil I'm still under $2000 in repair costs over 15yrs so no complaints.
Damn supply-chain...
It's taking forever to get parts for the new bike. Pieces are coming in in dribs and drabs. Got the topcase rack, but not the side rack.
Did get the upper crash bars
They look good!
Also installed the locking GPS mount:
Still waiting for the handguard protectors, the stock ones are made of cardboard and wouldn't even survive a tipover...
Going out for a shakedown ride!
It's taking forever to get parts for the new bike. Pieces are coming in in dribs and drabs. Got the topcase rack, but not the side rack.
Did get the upper crash bars
They look good!
Also installed the locking GPS mount:
Still waiting for the handguard protectors, the stock ones are made of cardboard and wouldn't even survive a tipover...
Going out for a shakedown ride!
Mounted my Touratech gps bracket to the Ural.
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