Valve Adjustment Problem | Page 3 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Valve Adjustment Problem

I wonder if there's something pressing the bucket up against the cam other than the valve? There's simply no way that the valve could be receeded 135 thou into the head, especially when all the others are perfectly fine. That's 1/8 of an inch!

Just tossing around ideas here, but maybe you have a clogged oil gallery inder that bucket, and the pressure of the air is preventing the bucket from moving down with the mere push of a feeler gauge???
 
What kind of tools do I need to replace valves? Or is it possible to clean these oil galleries without taking out the valves?
 
Also there isn't almost any wear on that bucket and cam lobe. I measured the cam lobe with a micrometer. Same wear as the other buckets and cam lobes.
 
gmang35 said:
What kind of tools do I need to replace valves? Or is it possible to clean these oil galleries without taking out the valves?
Click to expand...

I don't even know if these oil galleries exist! Was just brainstorming.

But I'd pull off the bucket and look underneath. Compare it to another one. Look for differences, and in particular figure out how air is designed to escape. Something isn't adding up.
 
I'll have to look closer at them when I have it apart again. I took it apart and put it back together 3 times in 2 days lol. I'm getting sick of it. But I'm damn good at setting the timing now lol. I can take it apart and put it all back together again within a couple hours now.
 
Check the installed height of the valve and compare it to the other valves. In simple terms is the valve sticking up more than the rest? If so you need to investigate the cause though the most likely thing is valve seat recession. I'm not familiar with this particular engine but I wouldn't ride it until the cause is found as problems like valve collars collapsing could prove very costly. It might be something simple you have overlooked and perhaps it is time for someone with more experience to check it before it becomes costly/
 
Sounds like a typical gsxr about to drop a valve....the keepers get pulled through the retainers which are made of aluminum on this model (hard anodized) and now the retainer is sitting high and the shim is buried in the retainer and the bucket is sitting directly the retainer and NOT the shim so it doesn't matter what shim you put in it .....get it? Call Zed at Z1 Cycletech and ask him how I know this....haha happened to me a few years ago and he sorted me out. He stocks a lot of motor parts and does a ton of head work on those things. Joe
 
But if this were the case, would it not cause the valve to stick open a bit, resulting in a loss of compression?

yamamonster said:
Sounds like a typical gsxr about to drop a valve....the keepers get pulled through the retainers which are made of aluminum on this model (hard anodized) and now the retainer is sitting high and the shim is buried in the retainer and the bucket is sitting directly the retainer and NOT the shim so it doesn't matter what shim you put in it .....get it? Call Zed at Z1 Cycletech and ask him how I know this....haha happened to me a few years ago and he sorted me out. He stocks a lot of motor parts and does a ton of head work on those things. Joe
Click to expand...
 
No, the problem is that the shim does nothing because the bucket is sitting on the retainer instead of the shim sitting on the top of the valve. If you take the bucket off you can compare the height of the valve to the retainer on each valve, and it sounds like you will see a difference. Repairing this now would be a lot cheaper than finding a new head when the valve drops out. The clearances have disappeared because the spring keeps getting taller, so compression and leakdown would check OK.
 
Gotcha, now it makes sense. Thanks.

skapan said:
No, the problem is that the shim does nothing because the bucket is sitting on the retainer instead of the shim sitting on the top of the valve. If you take the bucket off you can compare the height of the valve to the retainer on each valve, and it sounds like you will see a difference. Repairing this now would be a lot cheaper than finding a new head when the valve drops out. The clearances have disappeared because the spring keeps getting taller, so compression and leakdown would check OK.
Click to expand...
 
Pop the valve that you can't get the feeler gauge out and the one that you can get the feeler gauge under (make sure to compare exhaust to exhaust valves and intake to intake valves obviously). Take a look at the valve seats (for wear) and the height of the valves themselves (for stretching maybe?). You'll need a valve spring compressor. Get one that looks like this:

08-0247.jpg


If you do remove the valves, theres some chance you'll destroy the valve seals... in which case you'll need replacements. They're pretty cheap and you can get viton ones which are supposed to be better than OEM rubber. Check the valve guides too while your at it.
 
I've got a friend that's going to check them at his shop tomorrow morning. He wants to know what the installed height of the valve is supposed to be. I'm not sure what that is.
 
Just compare the height difference between the top of the valve and the top of the retainer, I'm thinking it will be a big enough difference to measure with dial verniers. Look at the keepers, that one pair looks like they are stretched apart more than the other? More pictures of the tops of the valves please.
 
Maybe I'm totally wrong, but it sure looks like that one second from the end is getting ready to bail. Time for a new set of retainers! Check all the spring heights free and pressure at installed height if you can - once it's apart do it right. If you put the plugs back in an pour a bit of gas in the chambers you can see if any of the valves are leaking before you take it apart.
Did a quick check and couldn't find installed heights for you - find a factory manual and it will have the info you need.
 
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Something is very wrong in the picture is one valve as far receded as it looks?

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