Shopping list for 2013 track season | Page 17 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Shopping list for 2013 track season

Umm, probably a stupid question, but do slicks last longer than DOT race tires (assuming you use warmers as you should)?
 
In my experience about the same but it depends on you. The closer I get to a good suspension setup, the better tire wear is and it depends on the track too... and bike.

I' d say it's pretty close between the two but give the nod to the 200/55 slick on the 1000, I have been getting two days before it's really off / spinning up.

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so, trying to get back on topic. I first ran Q2's and DRC's on an 08 1kRR, but pretty soon you'll be sliding around on them at the track. Currently mid red group, trackdays only 2:00 SMP long pace, no racing. I went with the pirelli superbike pro's last year, which are a "hard slick", intended for endurance racing and trackday addicts looking for a slick with most of the grip of a full race tire, but the mileage of an endurance tire. $350/set from orions for the 190's. I got 6-7 days/set of solid grip (on warmers). I just use the CT 1500 (1080 running) genny, haven't had a problem with it. I do bring a 100' extension cord though to put it away from everyone, its a little noisy.

you need to change the oil frequently in the CT, seems to get dirty pretty fast. For 1/5 the price of a honda, its a reasonable compromise.

I think dunlop has a similar offering out now as the pirelli superbike pros. Big fan of the supercorsas as well.
 
Shaman said:
In my experience about the same but it depends on you. The closer I get to a good suspension setup, the better tire wear is and it depends on the track too... and bike.

I' d say it's pretty close between the two but give the nod to the 200/55 slick on the 1000, I have been getting two days before it's really off / spinning up.
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Does the 200/55 fit good on a 6.0 inch rim? Also, I've been really happy at the track with my current suspension setup on street tires. Moving up to DOT Race or Slicks, is there a need to change the suspension settings in order to handle the better grip, or at my level of skill I shouldn't bother (1:24 at TMP, yellow group). If settings are needed, is there a particular setting I should approach, or it will be just tweaking everything in a trial & error manner?

smergy said:
so, trying to get back on topic. I first ran Q2's and DRC's on an 08 1kRR, but pretty soon you'll be sliding around on them at the track. Currently mid red group, trackdays only 2:00 SMP long pace, no racing. I went with the pirelli superbike pro's last year, which are a "hard slick", intended for endurance racing and trackday addicts looking for a slick with most of the grip of a full race tire, but the mileage of an endurance tire. $350/set from orions for the 190's. I got 6-7 days/set of solid grip (on warmers). I just use the CT 1500 (1080 running) genny, haven't had a problem with it. I do bring a 100' extension cord though to put it away from everyone, its a little noisy.

you need to change the oil frequently in the CT, seems to get dirty pretty fast. For 1/5 the price of a honda, its a reasonable compromise.

I think dunlop has a similar offering out now as the pirelli superbike pros. Big fan of the supercorsas as well.
Click to expand...

Really glad to hear I won't be the only one using the newly bought for me CT 1500w genny. And yeah, I'll be putting it away with a 100 ft cord as well, hope it won't be too bad for the others like that.

So, since I just bought it, I gotta try it and make sure it works before the window for returns expires. I was initially thinking to keep it in the box until the summer as I won't need it until then and to keep it dry for the winter, but I'm thinking now I better start it up at least once to see if it's any good..
 
Corsara said:
Does the 200/55 fit good on a 6.0 inch rim?
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Apparently. I see plenty of guys on 600s using it.

Also, I've been really happy at the track with my current suspension setup on street tires. Moving up to DOT Race or Slicks, is there a need to change the suspension settings in order to handle the better grip, or at my level of skill I shouldn't bother (1:24 at TMP, yellow group). If settings are needed, is there a particular setting I should approach, or it will be just tweaking everything in a trial & error manner?
Click to expand...

All suspension settings are done by informed trial and error. A person's style and pace will be the differential. For me, my bike feels so stiff it's hardly usable until I come up to speed, at which point it sometimes feels a little soft (but there's advantages to being a little soft, particularly on a bumpy track). The hardest lessons to learn about suspension are: there is no one perfect setting for any given track, ambient heat will make suspension settings different between morning and afternoon, sometimes you can make up lap time by setting for some fast corners while struggling in tight ones, and every track will need different settings, tire pressure can have an effect on suspension setup; tire manufacturers often have different sized tires which affect geometry . Or you can learn to compromise around issues that don't seem all that big, which is what pretty much everyone has to do.

This is why large professional teams have dedicated suspension staff.

Suspension setup in very broad general terms: If the bike tends to steer wide, you need to change chassis geometry at mid-corner which probably means stiffening the rear spring or adding rear ride height (but check your tire pressures first). If it goes wide in AND out, it's almost certainly a soft spring (but check your tire pressures first). If the bike is unstable in fast corners, you probably need to add front height or lower rear height in mid-corner (could be too stiff a spring but that's where the differential comes in... what's your riding style?), but check your tire pressures first! Adding height on one end MAY not much effect mid-corner chassis geometry that you tried to add by changing the other end... heheheh Oh yes, this is a black art... Then you have manual steering head offsets as seen on some Ducatis, Aprilias and bikes like my 1000 equipped with adjustable aftermarket triples... I admit that I am mostly mystified by this adjustment in practice.

Anyway... on topic, I wouldn't worry much about the noise your genny makes for tire warmers... although quieter is better, I am not convinced that it's a big deal while the actual event is on, more later on when people are camping.
 
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Shaman said:
Suspension setup in very broad general terms: If the bike tends to steer wide, you need to change chassis geometry at mid-corner which probably means stiffening the rear spring or adding rear ride height (but check your tire pressures first). If it goes wide in AND out, it's almost certainly a soft spring (but check your tire pressures first). If the bike is unstable in fast corners, you probably need to add front height or lower rear height in mid-corner (could be too stiff a spring but that's where the differential comes in... what's your riding style?), but check your tire pressures first! Adding height on one end MAY not much effect mid-corner chassis geometry that you tried to add by changing the other end... heheheh Oh yes, this is a black art... Then you have manual steering head offsets as seen on some Ducatis, Aprilias and bikes like my 1000 equipped with adjustable aftermarket triples... I admit that I am mostly mystified by this adjustment in practice.
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Shaman, thanks for this reply, I find these pointers understandable and will put a printout between the pages of my recently bought (and still unread) "Sportbike Suspension Tuning" book to refer to later.

Off-topic, just finished watching the F1 final, what a great race, enjoyed it a lot.
 
Keep in mind that rider input may mask or magnify a suspension issue, and if the tires are worn, you could be chasing a turning or stability problem that is really a tire problem (or an over-tight chain, or dragging brakes). You should really be convinced that it's geometry and spend time evaluating changes carefully, as you could be quicker in some corner types than others. Also, if a change adds confidence in the capabilities of bike and/or rider, you'll be faster even if what you did wasn't a help. Like I said, a black art.
 
Mr.Azim said:
Then you're WAAAAY too early for your track session lmao. I don't take the warmers off until I see the flag, hear an announcement or see another bike being let on.

That's another reason why I pit reasonably close to pit on/off.
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I go after the last - 3rd call.

Plus, I dont want to miss that half lap that you will be missing!
 
murf said:
I go after the last - 3rd call.

Plus, I dont want to miss that half lap that you will be missing!
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Says the guy with cooling off tires :)

at least i can go out at 100% and not have to worry about it
 
hehe... just came in.

BST_Wheels.jpg
 
Nice. I have a set like that on my street 1000. To be transferred to #9 some day when I finally get bored enough with it to sell it...
 
Nice wheels. Just keep in mind that if you ever plan to race that bike, check the rule book. Not all organizations allow them. (CSBK doesn't)

I just put a set of Dymag wheels on my race bike ... but they are a style of wheel that has been made since the 1980s and are allowed for the VRRA period in question, and I specifically double checked by asking the head tech guy at VRRA if they were legal before committing to them, and the word was ... legal! The vintage folks have a different set of issues; you can't always get completely original equipment wheels and even if you can, you can't always get suitable tires for them (my situation).
 
Brian P said:
Nice wheels. Just keep in mind that if you ever plan to race that bike, check the rule book. Not all organizations allow them. (CSBK doesn't)

I just put a set of Dymag wheels on my race bike ... but they are a style of wheel that has been made since the 1980s and are allowed for the VRRA period in question, and I specifically double checked by asking the head tech guy at VRRA if they were legal before committing to them, and the word was ... legal! The vintage folks have a different set of issues; you can't always get completely original equipment wheels and even if you can, you can't always get suitable tires for them (my situation).
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I have the stock wheels that ill be running wets on and I think ill just be doing SOAR next year and as many track days as I can, so wont have a problem with the rules. The wheels and rotors should save me about 5kgs of unsprung weight. Cant wait to give them a whirl.

Next on the shopping list will be an enclosed 5x8 or 5x10 trailer and an ez up canopy.

Are these ez ups from sears any good?

http://www.sears.com/e-z-up-sierra-ii-8482-canopy/p-00622710000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
 
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