Race for Sight Charity Track day August 24th

Yes I'm loving it. Have a lot to learn though. I need someone to show me the lines. I'm also using regular pilots. No slicks. Can't afford them yet. Bone stock 600.
I should invest in a go pro or have one of you guys follow me. But I'm happy for my first riding season.
 
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You don't need slicks or DOTs to get under 1:20. Just a bigger rear sprocket to get better drive out of the corner in second, smooth lines (which can be tricky at a patchy track like Cayuga). I myself have just broken 1:20 and I think going forward it will be a combo of confidence riding on the edge (sliding the back mostly) out of corners (which is entirely new to me) and holding higher corner speeds with confidence. My body position needs some slight adjustment too. I still wait too long to whack the throttle open.

Studying track videos helps too, especially the lines of riders who gain on you. You begin to learn where you are strong, then clearly see where you are losing ground or are weak.

Make friends with someone riding 2 to 3 seconds faster than you and follow them around, don't make the mistake of chasing down just anybody who blows past you!!!!

Those 2 guys in my video, the ZX10R leading and Paul following run 1:17s so I hear, and they are within my sight long enough to study their strong points and weaknesses. For example, the ZX10 pulls so hard out of turns 3,4,5, while my TC light blipped once. To me this points to better potential to stand it up a little sooner and crank it a bit more. He also went into 2 carrying more speed. I thought I learned to take 2 and 3 better from my last track day, having studied those videos, but yet again, there is room for improvement.

This track day though I learned to take 9,10,11,12 much better as one series rather than separate turns. I also learned to enter fast in a higher gear. This is was important cause fiddling with dropping a gear then back up again later saved time, and all it took was entering faster with more confidence...so the savings in time were 2 fold....faster plus less time wasted on fiddling with gear changes. Things like that saved me whole seconds at various points on the track.

I think I'll go for DOT, slicks or mods when I get into 1:17 territory.
 
You don't need slicks or DOTs to get under 1:20. Just a bigger rear sprocket to get better drive out of the corner in second, smooth lines (which can be tricky at a patchy track like Cayuga). I myself have just broken 1:20 and I think going forward it will be a combo of confidence riding on the edge (sliding the back mostly) out of corners (which is entirely new to me) and holding higher corner speeds with confidence. My body position needs some slight adjustment too. I still wait too long to whack the throttle open.

Studying track videos helps too, especially the lines of riders who gain on you. You begin to learn where you are strong, then clearly see where you are losing ground or are weak.

Make friends with someone riding 2 to 3 seconds faster than you and follow them around, don't make the mistake of chasing down just anybody who blows past you!!!!

Those 2 guys in my video, the ZX10R leading and Paul following run 1:17s so I hear, and they are within my sight long enough to study their strong points and weaknesses. For example, the ZX10 pulls so hard out of turns 3,4,5, while my TC light blipped once. To me this points to better potential to stand it up a little sooner and crank it a bit more. He also went into 2 carrying more speed. I thought I learned to take 2 and 3 better from my last track day, having studied those videos, but yet again, there is room for improvement.

This track day though I learned to take 9,10,11,12 much better as one series rather than separate turns. I also learned to enter fast in a higher gear. This is was important cause fiddling with dropping a gear then back up again later saved time, and all it took was entering faster with more confidence...so the savings in time were 2 fold....faster plus less time wasted on fiddling with gear changes. Things like that saved me whole seconds at various points on the track.

I think I'll go for DOT, slicks or mods when I get into 1:17 territory.

A lot of great info their. I appreciate it. I follow a lot of video. A lot your guys videos from tmp.
You are bang on with carrying more Speed in and less up shift to have to down shift rite after.
I think my body position is ok. I'm not sure. Harder to lean to the left cause of a hip issue I have. But find it very easy with the right handers.
1:17s?? Wow I could only imagine.

I try and pull off the track often and fun someone to chase. I'll pick up a quick guy. Or let someone pass and chase them.

Thanks again great advice.
 
Oh i forgot to mention......quick shifter......easily shaves a second or more. If you can't afford that, MotoGP style shifting (reverse) shaves off 80% of what a quick shifter would do, and depending on your bike costs nothing.

Also do a 1/5 rifleman's throttle insert with a zip tie and get full throttle to the stop in one twist. A $0.10 mod that makes a hell of a difference on the straight.

Cheap little mods that help a lot.
 
To the rider on the green ZX10R that is leading me in my clip posted earlier. I met a brother from your crew Road Dawgs at LL today and had a nice chat. So Glen if you see this, hit me up and we can swap footage. All be it, I am only in your front cam for one measly little pass...but with any luck you had a rear cam!

And Paul, any chance you had a front cam?

Any one else have a front or rear cam involved in some race action with me?
 
Oh i forgot to mention......quick shifter......easily shaves a second or more. If you can't afford that, MotoGP style shifting (reverse) shaves off 80% of what a quick shifter would do, and depending on your bike costs nothing.

Also do a 1/5 rifleman's throttle insert with a zip tie and get full throttle to the stop in one twist. A $0.10 mod that makes a hell of a difference on the straight.

Cheap little mods that help a lot.

What are these shifters going for ? Roughly of course.

I went from a 16 front sprocket to a 15. Your suggestion to go with a bigger sprocket in the rear? With that being said can I keep the 15 front or go back to the 16?
 
What are these shifters going for ? Roughly of course.

I went from a 16 front sprocket to a 15. Your suggestion to go with a bigger sprocket in the rear? With that being said can I keep the 15 front or go back to the 16?

In *theory* it doesn't make a difference if you go down in the front or up in the rear. If OEM is 15/43 them going down one in the front is the same as going up three in the rear. Obviously changing rears gives you finer adjustability.

In practice it is not always that simple because adding 3 teeth in the rear might make your current chain too short, whereas a -1 front (same ratio change) might fit with the current chain. Also, sometimes there are geometry issues such as the chain contacting the swingarm when you change sprockets, so it is always safer to go for a configuration that someone else has already tried on your model of bike.
 
What are these shifters going for ? Roughly of course.
Usually $70 not including shift rods. Most flashed ECU's you can wire the quick shifter right to it for smooth like butter shifting, but if not you'd have to tie it to a PCV (possibly with ignition module or SFM to work smoothest) or a Bazzaz (no extra ish required).

There are some new stand alone quickshifter systems that connect right to your coils (for spark cut), like the Annitori one, not cheap though :(

You can get lots of used dynojet QS sensors (people switch from push to pull for gp shift, or vice versa), work great. You can just have your shift rod cut shorter and re-welded as well (to account for the length of the quickshifter).

2013_05_24_GP_shift_with_quick_shift.jpg


Wired right to ECU:

[video=youtube;uExCuK0XhAQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uExCuK0XhAQ[/video]
 
Usually $70 not including shift rods. Most flashed ECU's you can wire the quick shifter right to it for smooth like butter shifting, but if not you'd have to tie it to a PCV (possibly with ignition module or SFM to work smoothest) or a Bazzaz (no extra ish required).

There are some new stand alone quickshifter systems that connect right to your coils (for spark cut), like the Annitori one, not cheap though :(

You can get lots of used dynojet QS sensors (people switch from push to pull for gp shift, or vice versa), work great. You can just have your shift rod cut shorter and re-welded as well (to account for the length of the quickshifter).

2013_05_24_GP_shift_with_quick_shift.jpg


Wired right to ECU:

[video=youtube;uExCuK0XhAQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uExCuK0XhAQ[/video]

Only snag here is I have a 2000. Which means carb!!
 
Usually $70 not including shift rods. Most flashed ECU's you can wire the quick shifter right to it for smooth like butter shifting, but if not you'd have to tie it to a PCV (possibly with ignition module or SFM to work smoothest) or a Bazzaz (no extra ish required).

There are some new stand alone quickshifter systems that connect right to your coils (for spark cut), like the Annitori one, not cheap though :(

You can get lots of used dynojet QS sensors (people switch from push to pull for gp shift, or vice versa), work great. You can just have your shift rod cut shorter and re-welded as well (to account for the length of the quickshifter).

2013_05_24_GP_shift_with_quick_shift.jpg


Wired right to ECU:

[video=youtube;uExCuK0XhAQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uExCuK0XhAQ[/video]

Only snag here is I have a 2000. Which means carb!!
 
Sorry don't know why that posted twice and with 2 seperate messages??

Sounds great though. Looks like I have some research to do then!
 
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