latest on the new Safety Cert Drive On program...

My friend has had 3 Nissans, current one is a '16? Rogue. All have been disasters...we give him **** but I guess he's a glutton for punishment.
My parents have owned Nissans since 1989….Sentra, pathfinder x 2, rogue x 3, and 2 Qashqais. Never a single issue outside of regular maintenance. Mind you they don’t drive much, but the seats are the best for my moms back.

Congrats @oioioi i comsidered the Rogue but they’ve got horribly low tow ratings for me. Great cars. Buddy just about to hit 700k on his Rogue.
 
I was at a local Nissan dealer today trying to negotiate a new lease as our current one is ending soon.
We asked about a buy out option, and because the ownership would technically be changing from the Nissan Canada to us, we would need a safety.
The dealer said it NEEDS to be done at their dealer as they have had issues with people doing their own safety's before. They would only charge $100 or $120 for the safety. So based on @PrivatePilot, experience, my price isn't that bad after all.
What would stop someone from going to another shop for a safety before heading to the dealer for a buyout or to turn it in? "Issues" or not, the safety would be in-hand, and drawing on PP's recent experience, the new system sounds pretty iron clad,

I ask because my wife has a Mazda CX something or other, and the dealership she goes to has really upped their fishing/service department to the point we REALLY don't trust them. At some point she's either going to buy it out or turn it in, as she's no longer a happy customer.
 
What would stop someone from going to another shop for a safety before heading to the dealer for a buyout or to turn it in? "Issues" or not, the safety would be in-hand, and drawing on PP's recent experience, the new system sounds pretty iron clad,

I ask because my wife has a Mazda CX something or other, and the dealership she goes to has really upped their fishing/service department to the point we REALLY don't trust them. At some point she's either going to buy it out or turn it in, as she's no longer a happy customer.
You can buy it out at any Mazda dealership. My buddy did this recently for a Kona N he took over from Leasebusters.

Just called all the Hyundai dealership in the area, and went with the one that had the lowest price to transfer / safety the car from the original owner to himself.
 
A shop discounting labour rates? Surely you jest.

As @GreyGhost suggested, it's likely just part of the bigger bucket. When you're trading in a car and buying another there's lots of numbers that can be tweaked to make other numbers more appealing, or simply changing them outright. If the dealer stands to make $10K on a new vehicle sale, yeah, I'd say a salesperson might decide to flat rate the "required" certification on the old car for fear of that customer being ****** at a $250 cost and deciding to go elsewhere.

What would stop someone from going to another shop for a safety before heading to the dealer for a buyout or to turn it in? "Issues" or not, the safety would be in-hand, and drawing on PP's recent experience, the new system sounds pretty iron clad,

I see the dealers issue when taking a trade in - Shop B doing a dodgy inspection or just being sloppy might end up certifying a vehicle that actually wasn't certifiable for some reason, leaving Dealership A holding the bag after the customer has already signed the deal on their new car and is history. Now they need to certify that car when they sell it to someone else and discover that (for example), the rocker panels are actually not structually sound and now the car needs $10K of body work to be actually safe.

There's also the issue of the new safety being all digital now - you no longer get a piece of paper, it's just entered into the ministry's computer system now and it comes up when you go to register the car - I just went through that part, and I watched the lady at the Service Ontario lookup and confirm the safety in their computer. Aside from the receipt from the dealership stating "safety passed", I had nothing paperwork wise.

All that said, when this is all said and done, no shop is actually certifying a vehicle at trade in as those safeties are only good for 30 days, so if that car sits longer than that, they need to go through it all over again, and with this new system they can't just say "we did it 8 weeks ago, it was fine, just write the paper now", either - they actually need to DO it again. So the "safety inspection" they're doing at trade in is probably little more than a 20-30 minute lookover to make sure there's nothing major wrong, and then they do the actual safety when the car sells. This is also very likely a contributing reason to the cost of the "required safety inspection" being negotiable, as it's doubtfull it's the actual real inspection at all.
 
As @GreyGhost suggested, it's likely just part of the bigger bucket. When you're trading in a car and buying another there's lots of numbers that can be tweaked to make other numbers more appealing, or simply changing them outright. If the dealer stands to make $10K on a new vehicle sale, yeah, I'd say a salesperson might decide to flat rate the "required" certification on the old car for fear of that customer being ****** at a $250 cost and deciding to go elsewhere.



I see the dealers issue when taking a trade in - Shop B doing a dodgy inspection or just being sloppy might end up certifying a vehicle that actually wasn't certifiable for some reason, leaving Dealership A holding the bag after the customer has already signed the deal on their new car and is history. Now they need to certify that car when they sell it to someone else and discover that (for example), the rocker panels are actually not structually sound and now the car needs $10K of body work to be actually safe.

There's also the issue of the new safety being all digital now - you no longer get a piece of paper, it's just entered into the ministry's computer system now and it comes up when you go to register the car - I just went through that part, and I watched the lady at the Service Ontario lookup and confirm the safety in their computer. Aside from the receipt from the dealership stating "safety passed", I had nothing paperwork wise.

All that said, when this is all said and done, no shop is actually certifying a vehicle at trade in as those safeties are only good for 30 days, so if that car sits longer than that, they need to go through it all over again, and with this new system they can't just say "we did it 8 weeks ago, it was fine, just write the paper now", either - they actually need to DO it again. So the "safety inspection" they're doing at trade in is probably little more than a 20-30 minute lookover to make sure there's nothing major wrong, and then they do the actual safety when the car sells. This is also very likely a contributing reason to the cost of the "required safety inspection" being negotiable, as it's doubtfull it's the actual real inspection at all.
You're correct that they're not going to put it on their lot with a safety from Moe's Garage, but I was thinking more about when you go to turn the leased car back to the dealer or even buy it out, and they say it needs X+Y+Z+A+B+C to be certified and you can say, "No, it really doesn't."
 
Why would the MTO know where to get a motorcycle certified? They process the registration and follow the requirements.


Need a motorcycle certification, contact a shop that knows motorcycles.
What do you mean how? They are the ones that approve the applications for certificate licences for shops. they don't have their addreses or what?
 
OMG. I called the Ontario MTO acting like a motorcyclist that can't find a shop to certify a bike...and THEY KNOW NOTHING ABOUT IT!
I was told "motorcycles are not affected by the new program, only Heavy Truck/commercial vehicles"

This is just great.

So I called the DriveOn program people and they are not aware that the MTO are not aware. Un-frickingbelievable.

This is going to be SUCH a Clusterf@*k when the weather breaks. Good luck buying or selling a bike from now on until they find a way out of this.
Are you telling me that the new regulations don't apply for civilian passenger vehicles, for example a Honda Accord?
 
I think dealers insist or mandate they do the safety as they in fact have title to the vehicle + it's a great way to generate service and parts revenue. If you were concerned about getting gouged in the transaction nothing stops you from getting your own safety done at a reputable shop elsewhere and use its pass to counter a crazy list of expensive deficiencies.

Question though. Would a shop do a safety on a vehicle you did not own? The registration lists Honda or Toyota credit (or whatever) and it's obvoius that you are not the legal owner.
 
In a private sale, the vehicle wouldn't necessarily be registered to the new owner (the one that wants the safety)... so YEAH

Private sale a bit different.

As an example, would Canadian Tire do a safety on a leased Honda?
 
As an example, would Canadian Tire do a safety on a leased Honda?

They don’t care what you bring them. You plop keys on counter and ask for a safety, they’ll do a safety. Year, make, model, leased, financed, own, scrapyard pull or pristine, all irrelevant.
 
In this case, it may not be a cut shop rate. It could be "inspection for buyout $120" flat rate. As part of that, maybe they are supposed to find another $1000 that needs done so shop and mechanic both make four+ hours for two hours work.
My GM dealer didn't charge me a penny above the buyout price in the lease agreement + HST.
 
What would stop someone from going to another shop for a safety before heading to the dealer for a buyout or to turn it in? "Issues" or not, the safety would be in-hand, and drawing on PP's recent experience, the new system sounds pretty iron clad,

I ask because my wife has a Mazda CX something or other, and the dealership she goes to has really upped their fishing/service department to the point we REALLY don't trust them. At some point she's either going to buy it out or turn it in, as she's no longer a happy customer.
I deal with Leggat Mazda in Burlington - I know my way around cars and they dinged me for $600 fishing for unnecessary work on my mother's CX.

They tried again last month telling her that at 40,000KM the Mazda CX 5s recommended service included a wheel alignment, engine decarbonization service, brake cleaning, and a comprehensive electrical inspection and service.

I think $800 is their magic number.
 
They tried again last month telling her that at 40,000KM the Mazda CX 5s recommended service included a wheel alignment, engine decarbonization service, brake cleaning, and a comprehensive electrical inspection and service.

An alignment on a car that has no alignment issues is just dumb IMHO.

"Engine decarbonization" is ******** profit driven nonsense that doesn't need to be done on any modern car.

Brake cleaning? Sure, maybe, if they haven't been done in 40K.

"Comprehensive electrical inspection", well, you know that's just "we looked at everything and sprayed some PB blaster in a few spots, looks good".

In my opinion, that's 80% "Here's a laundry list of stuff we recommend to pad our profits".

When we bought our new Ioniq5 a few weeks ago I had it certified and all the recalls and TSB done at Clarington Hyundai, and to their credit they didn't upsell me on anything at all - nada, nothing, zilch. It was a good start to a dealer relationship - although I don't get a lot of work done directly at dealerships usually, this will at least make me consider it in the future.
 
"Engine decarbonization" is ******** profit driven nonsense that doesn't need to be done on any modern car.
Not entirely true. When mpi was ditched in favor of di, some engines do foul intake valves as we are stuck with egr but no fuel to wash away deposits. Proper manual cleaning by scraping or walnut blasting helps it breathe better and can solve misfires. With very few exceptions a chemical treatment (or even worse a fuel additive) does nothing other than burning money.
 
With very few exceptions a chemical treatment (or even worse a fuel additive) does nothing other than burning money.

Which is exactly what most shops do.

If it was a proper “remove the intake manifold and blast it” job the quote they got would be a *lot* higher.
 
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