Inverters eu2000i/ef

I can't find the original page I found when I was shopping for generators, but here's a response from a Honda employee describing the issue:

However, if you connect another EU2000i in parallel, the 20A breaker is NOT part of that parallel connection circuit, AND the combined amperage of the two units is now 26.6A, which exceeds to 20A rating of the receptacle. Verdict: No parallel connection for you on this model.

Does the unit not have a 20amp fuse/breaker to protect the 20amp receptacle? If it does, I see no problem with paralleling. Even of the unit potentially puts out 26.6 amps, the breaker/fuse should protect the outlet.
 
My parents have a Generac 18k unit at their place. It's quieter then my Honda em5000. And the Honda is pretty quid for what it is at that too.
 
Poor frequency control,poor sine wave etc.Not saying the honda brush type generators are perfect but I would trust Honda engineering over some of the crap that has been coming from China the last few years any day.

I understand the poor frequency control as sometimes the champion generators hunt until they stabilize, but how do they make a poor sine wave? I haven't scoped one, but if I have voltage created by rotating magnetic fields, how can I get anything other than a pure sine wave?
 
I understand the poor frequency control as sometimes the champion generators hunt until they stabilize, but how do they make a poor sine wave? I haven't scoped one, but if I have voltage created by rotating magnetic fields, how can I get anything other than a pure sine wave?
That would be true on a generator with no load or a steady load but I think fluctuating loads and non linear loads can effect the voltage level on the sine wave especially on a generator that is operating at or near full load.Compound that with a varying frequency as your generator tries to find the right speed due to changing loads and I can guarantee your sine wave will not look anything like it does in your "Basic Electricity" textbook. I think I saw something on youtube a while back involving a knock off Honda generator on an oscliscope that demonstrates this,
 
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That would be true on a generator with no load or a steady load but I think fluctuating loads and non linear loads can effect the voltage level on the sine wave especially on a generator that is operating at or near full load.I think I saw something on youtube a while back involving a knock off Honda generator on an oscliscope that demonstrate this,


Would running the thing through a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) fix this?
 
Does the unit not have a 20amp fuse/breaker to protect the 20amp receptacle? If it does, I see no problem with paralleling. Even of the unit potentially puts out 26.6 amps, the breaker/fuse should protect the outlet.

I'm not sure how the circuit protection is wired when paired. The bottom line is that is doesn't matter. The Canadian units don't have the pairing feature, so it's a moot point.
 
Would running the thing through a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) fix this?

A regular consumer grade UPS would probably improve the situation, but to fix the issue is a stretch.
An up-scale UPS will have power conditioning but they are pricey.

What I haven't seen mentioned here is there are two types of portable generators.
There are rectified generators where the frequency is dictated by engine RPM (these are the older style, cheaper generators) These are akin to the generator on a pre 70s car.
Then there is the newer type with the output regulated by field, and the output wave is controlled by an electronic regulator ("inverters" like the Honda EUs) These are akin to a modern alternator found on a modern car.

For Bobo: When I went looking for a gen set for the race trailer EVERYONE told me to buy an Onan (a Cummins company). Onan had to be the best cuz all the big mobile homes and semi trucks have Onan gen sets.
Onan was one of the first companies to manufacture gen sets in China... and they're still considered the industry standard.
Reading Honda websites, they will only admit to manufacturing gen sets in France... but all the Honda gen sets have GX motors. Honda GX motors have ALWAYS been built by the Jaing Dong (sp?) motor corp. of China.
I am going out on a limb here by saying the vast majority of consumer level gen sets are made in China... so I think you should stop using "Made in China" as an insult.
Oh... and "inverters" DO NOT output a sine wave. They output a square wave, synthesized to look like a sine wave. That is the difference between a "good" inverter and a "bad or cheap" inverter, how well that wave is synthesized. To synth that wave is not easy (actually to reproduce a sine wave digitally is impossible), therefore not cheap.

If your old gen set is too loud: put a bigger muffler on it. (Talk to any lawn mower repair shop, NOT Canadian Tire or Princess Auto).
The 2000va Champion inverter can be "stacked" in parallel, but you have to get the cables from a US distributor.
We found it was cheaper to charge the batteries in the race car using the alternator on my 4.3L Chev than to use a 3500va 6hp gen set with a battery charger.
 
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Cool, I run the computer equipment off that.

We have a UPS installed on our computers, network equipment, and our TV. If voltage or frequency goes out of an accepted range, they transfer to battery mode. First time we ran our generator, all the UPSes were transferring to & from battery like crazy because the frequency was bouncing between 63hz (in range) and 63.5hz (out of range). Setting the governor on the generator so that put out exactly 60hz fixed the problem.

So if you hear your UPS devices clicking away like crazy while on generator power, ensure the generator is putting out the correct hz.

I've been happy with my Champion generator so far - always runs at a constant voltage/frequency and doesn't hunt even under no load. Only complaint is that it's a little loud.
 
We have a UPS installed on our computers, network equipment, and our TV. If voltage or frequency goes out of an accepted range, they transfer to battery mode. First time we ran our generator, all the UPSes were transferring to & from battery like crazy because the frequency was bouncing between 63hz (in range) and 63.5hz (out of range). Setting the governor on the generator so that put out exactly 60hz fixed the problem.

So if you hear your UPS devices clicking away like crazy while on generator power, ensure the generator is putting out the correct hz.

I've been happy with my Champion generator so far - always runs at a constant voltage/frequency and doesn't hunt even under no load. Only complaint is that it's a little loud.

Interesting, I'll have to fire it up with the ups on it. I have a champion 1200/1500 and debating whether to get a 3500 to run the well, two 3500s to run the well and water heater or a 7000 to run the well and water heater. The water heater and well both are wired with two hots and a ground, no neutral (240v). Not sure how that would get wired to the generator.
 
Could always consider solar panels too for those applications.. panels would charge a battery bank and power would be drawn as needed. Water heaters and wells are not constant-use applications so solar might be nice for this.
 
Interesting, I'll have to fire it up with the ups on it. I have a champion 1200/1500 and debating whether to get a 3500 to run the well, two 3500s to run the well and water heater or a 7000 to run the well and water heater. The water heater and well both are wired with two hots and a ground, no neutral (240v). Not sure how that would get wired to the generator.

Our electrician installed a 20 circuit 30A generator panel and we just told him which circuits we wanted on backup power. He installed a cable to plug into the 240v socket of the generator. It cost ~$900 - money well spent to let him worry about the wiring details!

We got our 7200w generator from Costco (you can get them at the right time for ~$600). Gave it a good workout the other day. We ran the well, flash heater, the keurig, waffle iron, furnace, tv, lights, networking equipment and a few computers with no issues at all.

If you're lucky to have gas, switch the water heater over.
 
Could always consider solar panels too for those applications.. panels would charge a battery bank and power would be drawn as needed. Water heaters and wells are not constant-use applications so solar might be nice for this.

I have considered this and been told may as well go off grid which I've also considered.
 
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Our electrician installed a 20 circuit 30A generator panel and we just told him which circuits we wanted on backup power. He installed a cable to plug into the 240v socket of the generator. It cost ~$900 - money well spent to let him worry about the wiring details!

We got our 7200w generator from Costco (you can get them at the right time for ~$600). Gave it a good workout the other day. We ran the well, flash heater, the keurig, waffle iron, furnace, tv, lights, networking equipment and a few computers with no issues at all.

If you're lucky to have gas, switch the water heater over.


Sadly don't have gas, have an oil/diesel furnace, been thinking of switching to propane but when I consulted with the propane people they said because the electric water heater was new as of last spring I should leave it.
 
it is, but I don't have the $ to switch right now...

I say the answer is to get a personal line of credit. Purchase your switchover for the furnace and apply the savings to the PLC to pay it off. Leave the water heater alone, you don't use it constantly and being a year old it will be well insulated anyway. So your focus is just on the furnace. If it's a big house oil would be $1000 every few months so that would cover the PLC I think.

Honestly, I love electric and if I could I would solarize everything but my property is too small.
 
You could run the average house on one 15 ampere circuit if you have a natural gas furnace and the patience of Job. You will be contantly rotating usage and that means knowing how things work, loads etc. Mostly grade 9 physics.

I have run standard and inverter Hondas of similar sizes. The inverter is quieter and lighter but the most important thing for me is that when not drawing power it drops to idle and uses far less fuel. Refueling was a constant event with a conventional gennie. How far will you have to go for gas?
 
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