Help me diagnose this scary chatter at TMP Turn 2

[ZX600]

your rear wheel and chain is doing the hokey pokey because your really rough and sloppy when clutching and downshifting. hard on tranny. basically you suck . lol.

This but without the suck part - Try been smooth when downshifting

I think you could have shifted one gear up on that straight and then downshift one, there was no reason to go into a gear that will make you enter the corner very unsettled

Not sure if this makes sense - Basically you were in the wrong gear passed the half point on that straight and then at the end had to go down one more gear, you could have entered that corner easily on that same gear.

 

[YellowDuck]

also try braking into the corner, not just before it, braking hard before the turn, letting off during, and throttle open when yor exiting.

Keith Code just felt a cold shiver go up his spine...

 

[carboncat]

easy there rossi. trying to help with throttle and brake control.

 

[dricked]

Ya it's just trail braking, you don't need to be a pro to do it.

 

[sxyglock17]

It's a Drift HD170 Stealth camera, and it's been nothing but problems, I would never recommend Drift to anyone.

If you find/buy a bricked/totally dead Hero2 I can unbrick it for ya. I picked up a few cheap on Kijiji (said "for parts") and was able to get them working 100%. It's mostly when people try and upgrade the firmware, it can hard or soft brick it, I can fix either (or tell you how to fix it) Sometimes if it got wet, there will be corrosion on a ribbon cable inside, also easy to fix.

 

[YellowDuck]

easy there rossi. trying to help with throttle and brake control.

Rossi? I think you are reading too much into my comment. I'm just saying that CSS doesn't promote trail braking, not that it is good or bad. I am not a Code-y.

 

[carboncat]

your obsession with css is like tafb and a USB port.
its all good tho its GTAM we all stab at each other! LOL

 

[triggerhappy]

i started riding a bike without a slipper clutch this year and found it easier to blip without it...not sure why.

I thought that was just me! previous bike was a 2007 CBR600RR, no slipper, bliping was supper smooth. Current bike 2007 ZX6R with slipper, bliping just doesnt seem to work as well, that being said I love the slipper on the Kwak and don't feel the need to blip at all anymore with it. Although it has taken a bit of learning how to use it smooth and effectively backing it into corners (still learning). I use the 'slow clutch release' technique for some tighter corners, works for me at least. Sometimes the rear slides into the corner a bit, but no skipping as seen in the video.

Corsara- the first time I went out with a slipper I felt like I had to learn how to downshift all over again, just practice being smooth, not fast with it and it comes little by little. For what its worth I love having the slipper now.

 

[bakaboy]

I thought that was just me! previous bike was a 2007 CBR600RR, no slipper, bliping was supper smooth. Current bike 2007 ZX6R with slipper, bliping just doesnt seem to work as well, that being said I love the slipper on the Kwak and don't feel the need to blip at all anymore with it. Although it has taken a bit of learning how to use it smooth and effectively backing it into corners (still learning). I use the 'slow clutch release' technique for some tighter corners, works for me at least. Sometimes the rear slides into the corner a bit, but no skipping as seen in the video.

Corsara- the first time I went out with a slipper I felt like I had to learn how to downshift all over again, just practice being smooth, not fast with it and it comes little by little. For what its worth I love having the slipper now.

I'm confused. I have been reading this thread and others about bliping. I was taught to be downshifting through my braking phase. How do I fit bliping into my routine and why would the people who have coached me not recommend the practice?

 

[TomC]

even with a slipper clutch you should ease in the rev match via feathering or blipping...not dumping the clutch.

When I took FAST, they told me not to bother with blipping as all the rental bikes had slipper clutches installed on them. But if your bike doesn't have a slipper, you really dont have much of a choice.

 

[triggerhappy]

I'm confused. I have been reading this thread and others about bliping. I was taught to be downshifting through my braking phase. How do I fit bliping into my routine and why would the people who have coached me not recommend the practice?

I guess it comes down to the rider? I have heard both sides and I eventually fell on the 'non-bliping' side. To be honest I bliped when I rode on the street and it carried over to the track. I much prefer not bliping, focusing on smooth down shifts and trail braking. Is one way better than the other... :dontknow:

 

[georgy]

Dumping the clutch is fine if your slipper is slipping well.

Your slipper is not slipping well.

Also just use 2 fingers on the clutch and only pull it back an inch or so to downshift.

 

[bakaboy]

I guess it comes down to the rider? I have heard both sides and I eventually fell on the 'non-bliping' side. To be honest I bliped when I rode on the street and it carried over to the track. I much prefer not bliping, focusing on smooth down shifts and trail braking. Is one way better than the other... :dontknow:

There you go. Thought I was alone.

 

[N3WMAN]

Get jamie to put one of those electronic throttle blippers on your bike. Problem solved.

 

[Corsara]

After sleeping on it a few nights, I've made some radical decisions.

First and foremost, I dropped off my forks for cleanup, springs change to match my weight, new seals, and a little bit (not much!) thicker viscosity oil for more dampening as I can't spend money to revalve them right now.

Secondly, I am going to put away my warmers and genny in storage for indefinite amount of time. Instead of slicks, for which I'm not fast enough to keep the heat, I'll run street tires, at least until I get down to 1:20 at TMP (might take a while). Do you know if my Dunlop Q2's, which were in my cold unheated garage all winter long, are almost as good as they were last year when I last rode them? My personal best was a 1:24 on Q2 last year and pretty consistent at 1:25, and now with my new 'slipper' clutch, slicks and warmers, I am nowhere near that, and I've done two trackdays already (best was 1:27).

Thirdly, at my next track day I will first try to ease out the clutch slowly, instead of dumping it (which I wrongfully thought is what will make the clutch slip). If I discover that this slipper clutch is a POS, I will work on my rev-matching skills like I did last year, although I didn't have enough seat time to become good at it (hence the decisiveness to spend 400+ altogether for clutch and plates in the winter).

Am I being smart about my plan, or I've got it all wrong again?

 

[carboncat]

Sounds like a solid plan, the tires will be fine! And why not run dot tires? You can use the warmers and get great traction, I'm sure you can keep the heat in them.

 

[Corsara]

Sounds like a solid plan, the tires will be fine! And why not run dot tires? You can use the warmers and get great traction, I'm sure you can keep the heat in them.

Looks like the Q2's have plenty of traction for my skills. Also my Q2's have only two track days on them, so I think I should use them up before moving up to a better tire (like the Dunlop GPA's, which might be next in this case).

 

[YellowDuck]

Why put the warmers away? Lot's of guys use them with Q2s or similar, to avoid having to do a cautious warm-up lap or two at the beginning of every session. Not necessary for sure, but maybe nice to have?

My impression is that slipper clutches really vary. Some of the older OEM ones barely do anything - I knew a pretty experienced rider with a TLR that was unaware that his bike even had a slipper, and many guys with newer OEM slippers will tell you that they can still lock the rear if they are too ham-fisted with the clutch. As others have said though, that is not true with all slipper clutches. I am pretty sure that I could dump the clutch from pretty much any rpm on my bike and not skid the rear, assuming I am upright and not using the rear brake. In your case it might be a matter of adjustment, or it might just be a not very good unit.

+1 on getting the spring rate right in your forks - I think that was a great decision. Most important thing you can do suspension-wise.

 

[Mr.Azim]

stop over-thinking and go ride. you're needlessly worrying about "what ifs"

 

[omnivore]

Seems like street gearing, or stock gearing, like my endurance bike. Sometimes I only upshift once and downshift once per lap. However, if you are at or near redline, downshifting before allowing the bike to slow can cause chatter if you don't rev match. A slipper clutch can help alleviate this, but I fear that yours isn't working.

Your slipper clutch isn't slipping. Did you swap a 750 wave spring under it? The stock one is way too stiff and barely allows any slip. Also, did you drill a few extra holes in the basket to allow better oiling of the plates and slipper mechanism? This is a known problem.