If you look hard enough you will find cracks in just about any concrete. When there is a difference in the planes on either side of the crack it's definitely an issue.I wouldn't worry about it much, but there are epoxies that you can use to seal these types of cracks.
If you're REALLY concerned you can do a full drill and fill project where you drill at about a 45deg angle, then inject the polyurethane with a packer and it'll seal it very well.
Not cheap. Messy. But should eliminate most of the worries.
Also, the crack is going into the ground, so you'll have to dig down, find the end of it, and start the drill fill from there moving up.
We usually grout / fill from the bottom up to get rid of the water, but in this case...I wouldn't be too worried.
SikaFix® Kit CA
The SikaFix® Kit CA is an injection package for the repair of leaking cracks in foundations and waterproofing of piping penetrations, static joints and other types of voids. The kit includes hydraulic mortar for crack plugging, injections T’s and a two-part expansive hydrophobic polyurethane...can.sika.com
Each product has different applications, but SIKA has good product. Your other options are MAPEI, GeoForm, BASF, etc.
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Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
I've caught two collisions on my dash cam and stayed around to give my report to the police. However, both times I forgot to mention my dash cam but suddenly remembered when I got home, made and delivered copies of the specific times.
I try to be a safe driver but I'm not perfect. I don't need someone with a video reviewing microscope ticking off little traffic indiscretions.
Looks like the ice rink you from Markham lost in the end…
toronto.ctvnews.ca
Markham man agrees to remove backyard hockey rink after years-long faceoff with city, neighbours
A Markham hockey buff who built a massive backyard ice rink without permissions or permits has reluctantly agreed to remove the sprawling surface, following a years-long dispute with the city and his neighbours.
I built a sofa table and it is solid walnut, not veneer. Cost was $50. I made it from a dining room table I bought at Restore for $100 and only used half the wood.
“Brown” furniture is passé so it sits. So paint it. Long pieces are harder to find.
Building from HD or Rona SPF sucks. The new growth stuff is garbage.
If by brown you mean antiquey stuff, well that's not moving at the ReStore.
No not antique stuff , that’s way out of vogue . Unless it’s truly antique (
[emoji[emoji6
]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]s or older) , stuff from grandmas house is recycled. For some reason Teak Scandinavian is making a big comeback.
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
[emoji[emoji6
]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]s or older) , stuff from grandmas house is recycled. For some reason Teak Scandinavian is making a big comeback. Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
Fair enough. Brown is the term we use for the antique stuff. Scandinavian Teak is often the mid-century modern and yes that flies off the shelf.No not antique stuff , that’s way out of vogue . Unless it’s truly antique (
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Well frig. This wasn't on the list. Last night lights were out on the hottub so I checked it and it was dead. Breakers seemed ok. Opened it up today and the expensive control box has had an internal fire. Great. @Mikedezo44 do you have a BFBP20 or 65-2035 (or precursor) for sale?
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Yeah. Definitely puts a clock on things. Right now it's sitting full as I don't know if I am replacing the module including heater or the board (depends on what I can find and pricing). Draining a tub sufficiently to survive a deep freeze is a pain and I'd rather not do it. Water in was relatively new.
Just talked to an old feller that fixes boards in his retirement. He says dump it and he'll have a look. I'll defer to experience but I think it's cooked.
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