Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

I had $4.81 and can't add cents so I had to use real money. I buy a line when there are maxmillions. 1M is enough to change things.
I just dump $100 and it rides for 5-6 weeks.

I’ve spent more money on dumber junk than that.

Once I get a ‘your subscription cannot be fulfilled’ I wait a few weeks to reset again.

Almost zero chance of winning…but ya can’t win if you don’t play (yes I’m dumb for playing).
 
I just dump $100 and it rides for 5-6 weeks.

I’ve spent more money on dumber junk than that.

Once I get a ‘your subscription cannot be fulfilled’ I wait a few weeks to reset again.

Almost zero chance of winning…but ya can’t win if you don’t play (yes I’m dumb for playing).
I don't give them that much money. Statistically, you lose most of the money you spend on lottery tickets. You are also right that you miss 100% of the shots you don't take.

I was a "winner" last night. Paid $6 for the ticket and won $2. Wtf is that. Stupidity. The lowest prize should be at least the price of the ticket (or a free ticket). Trying to game the stats about how many million people "won" when really they just lost less.
 
There is still some work to do on the window, paint and other stuff (in the spring now) but I needed to get the cardboard off of it. This is my home office window...

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The "stained glass" along the top of the window is a film that sticks to the window without adhesive, this was left over from another window I did (why it is sideways). The film looks good from inside and totally legit from outside, specially at night with the light on. I may change up the film in the spring as well. Cheap Ikea shears and curtain rod.

The slag glass light is an antique one I bought ($50 FBMP) I repaired and rewired. The photo is on a bit of an angle, it is aligned dead centre to the window for the OCD crowd. There is another one in the room (very similar but much nicer) we bought at a garage sale as a lamp shade (I made it into a ceiling light) that I used as the starting point for the design work.

It all works with the age of the house....
 
There is still some work to do on the window, paint and other stuff (in the spring now) but I needed to get the cardboard off of it. This is my home office window...

View attachment 71235

The "stained glass" along the top of the window is a film that sticks to the window without adhesive, this was left over from another window I did (why it is sideways). The film looks good from inside and totally legit from outside, specially at night with the light on. I may change up the film in the spring as well. Cheap Ikea shears and curtain rod.

The slag glass light is an antique one I bought ($50 FBMP) I repaired and rewired. The photo is on a bit of an angle, it is aligned dead centre to the window for the OCD crowd. There is another one in the room (very similar but much nicer) we bought at a garage sale as a lamp shade (I made it into a ceiling light) that I used as the starting point for the design work.

It all works with the age of the house....
The stained glass looks nice. If you had a big enough sheet to cut out sections that made sense frame-wise, it would be hard to pick out. The cuts at awkward spots in the flowers gives away the film. Most people wouldn't notice though. Hell, even if you could cut the mullions out so the flowers visually align it would be hard for most people to pick out (but can't be done now and you may not have had enough film to do it before).

I would live in a much older home if I had the choice. Sadly my wife doesn't like haunted houses.
 
Extended family is redoing their kitchen. Budget went from shockingly low to normal low (doubled already). I was trying to convince them to go induction stove as the price gap is pretty small now. They didn't want to listen. I lent them an induction burner (they have no kitchen so bbq, kettle and air fryer in basement was their kitchen). After the first use they are shopping for an induction stove. For most people, it's hard to justify normal smoothtop anymore. For a cheap rental, I'd go with coils. Those things are indestructible.
 
The stained glass looks nice. If you had a big enough sheet to cut out sections that made sense frame-wise, it would be hard to pick out. The cuts at awkward spots in the flowers gives away the film. Most people wouldn't notice though. Hell, even if you could cut the mullions out so the flowers visually align it would be hard for most people to pick out (but can't be done now and you may not have had enough film to do it before).

I would live in a much older home if I had the choice. Sadly my wife doesn't like haunted houses.
That was all the film I had left. Even then I had to cut each one 1/4" short to get the full window width...

I want to see how well it holds up through the seasons. It is not very expensive to redo at some point.
 
I revived our 16 year old Weber BBQ on the weekend (propane). The crossover tube rotted out and some of the flavour bars were rotted out. Weber does not sell just the xover bar--only a full burner set and I figured the burners only had a couple of years left so I went with replacement Weber burners... I was going to cut and bend up some stainless for the flavour bars but they were pretty cheap. The PITA, the steel bolts that mount the manifold to the aluminum clam-shell were not going to come out (no surprise). I tried the torch and soaking in liquid wrench (I knew it would not work but I figure start easy). Heads broke off, as expected. I welded a nut on the ends of the bolts, still no joy, and they broke off deeper. Tried drilling them but that was just taking too long. Solution, I welded some studs to the end of the bolts (tricky as they were not a bit recessed at this point) so now I have studs and nuts.

In the summer I have to replace the floor of the cabinet, it is pretty much non-existent. I had a small sheet of steel that I just placed in their until next summer.

I was going to just buy a new one but I figure why spend upwards to $1500 when I can fix the old one for way less than $200... Plus I felt at 16 years it still owes me...
 
Extended family is redoing their kitchen. Budget went from shockingly low to normal low (doubled already).
Have they been watching too many reno shows?
Around covid I redid my kitchen:
- new window in front of the sink
- never used the dishwasher so I built 3 drawers to fill the space (bottom two are deep pot/pan drawers Squeeze is ecstatic))
- new countertop (over 13ft in one direction)
- new tap and sink
- painted the cabinets and cupboards (old Hanover units with a timeless design) and new stainless handles
- subway tile for the backsplash and feature wall behind the stove
- new led light fixture
I did the work and the cost was less than $4,000
 
I revived our 16 year old Weber BBQ on the weekend (propane). The crossover tube rotted out and some of the flavour bars were rotted out. Weber does not sell just the xover bar--only a full burner set and I figured the burners only had a couple of years left so I went with replacement Weber burners... I was going to cut and bend up some stainless for the flavour bars but they were pretty cheap. The PITA, the steel bolts that mount the manifold to the aluminum clam-shell were not going to come out (no surprise). I tried the torch and soaking in liquid wrench (I knew it would not work but I figure start easy). Heads broke off, as expected. I welded a nut on the ends of the bolts, still no joy, and they broke off deeper. Tried drilling them but that was just taking too long. Solution, I welded some studs to the end of the bolts (tricky as they were not a bit recessed at this point) so now I have studs and nuts.

In the summer I have to replace the floor of the cabinet, it is pretty much non-existent. I had a small sheet of steel that I just placed in their until next summer.

I was going to just buy a new one but I figure why spend upwards to $1500 when I can fix the old one for way less than $200... Plus I felt at 16 years it still owes me...
You just reminded me that my Que needs work. One steel leg has rusted out/off at the back and the wavy slotted sheet between burner and grill is pretty tough. That said I did burgers last week no problem.
 
Have they been watching too many reno shows?
Around covid I redid my kitchen:
- new window in front of the sink
- never used the dishwasher so I built 3 drawers to fill the space (bottom two are deep pot/pan drawers Squeeze is ecstatic))
- new countertop (over 13ft in one direction)
- new tap and sink
- painted the cabinets and cupboards (old Hanover units with a timeless design) and new stainless handles
- subway tile for the backsplash and feature wall behind the stove
- new led light fixture
I did the work and the cost was less than $4,000
They are not capable of doing any of the work themselves. Years ago they started installing a feature wall using corrugated plastic that looked like fake wood and called me with questions after they had done half. wtf. They had started in one corner and gone straight up. Every piece was slightly different lengths so in the middle of the wall was a joint that wobbled by about an inch. Not a level in sight. Barf. Not enough material to fix it properly so I straightened the line up the center. Still horrible but less offensive. Thankfully that wall is getting redone as part of this project.

They have always hated their cabinets and counter because they were builder-grade and they feel that they deserve better. Based on the pricing they got, I suspect the new cabinets will be worse than the old ones but I am staying out of it. All work is being done by a contractor friend of theirs (that always ends well :/). Cabinets were ripped out prior to new cabinets being selected and ordered. Wtf. Off to a poor start imo.

They are doing new floors, cabinets, pot lights, counters, sink, faucet, stove and removal of popcorn on ceiling. Scope expanded to include small foyer and powder room that also had builder-grade tile they didn't like. That means new toilet and vanity as well. Initial estimate was <20K plus stove and now they are north of 40K budget and nothing new has gone in yet.
 
I revived our 16 year old Weber BBQ on the weekend (propane). The crossover tube rotted out and some of the flavour bars were rotted out. Weber does not sell just the xover bar--only a full burner set and I figured the burners only had a couple of years left so I went with replacement Weber burners... I was going to cut and bend up some stainless for the flavour bars but they were pretty cheap. The PITA, the steel bolts that mount the manifold to the aluminum clam-shell were not going to come out (no surprise). I tried the torch and soaking in liquid wrench (I knew it would not work but I figure start easy). Heads broke off, as expected. I welded a nut on the ends of the bolts, still no joy, and they broke off deeper. Tried drilling them but that was just taking too long. Solution, I welded some studs to the end of the bolts (tricky as they were not a bit recessed at this point) so now I have studs and nuts.

In the summer I have to replace the floor of the cabinet, it is pretty much non-existent. I had a small sheet of steel that I just placed in their until next summer.

I was going to just buy a new one but I figure why spend upwards to $1500 when I can fix the old one for way less than $200... Plus I felt at 16 years it still owes me...
I've had 2 Webers, the burners and flavor bars only lasted under 6 years before completely rusting out. The base of the Webers were gone inside 10 years. That's not much better than a CTC cheepie.

I bought my parents a Napolean Prestige in 1998, I got it back and restored it 4 years ago. It needed burners, and a complete manifold and valve cleaning. To my surprise, the burners were covered under a lifetime warranty, and when I sent Napolean a picture of the 30+ year-old BBQ they threw in a new rear burner and flavor bars for free.

It still grilles like it's new.
 
Heated floor thermostat flaked again. Looks and sounds like it's working but doesn't actually connect power to the heating wire. When this happened a few years ago I replaced one of the relays which had failed (it breaks both neutral and hot in case one welds shut). It's not interested in passing GFCI test this time so I am calling it and replacing with a new one. Now, maybe the gfci test is downstream of the second failed relay but my wife doesn't love a cold bathroom. If I have another relay I'll fix the old one and keep it as a spare.
 
Hey have any of you used a camera snake? I see them on Amazon, and I want to poke around in some drains as I've been having some issues. Worth it, not? Is there another way to get a better idea of where the pipes go/map them out?

Picture for reference, usually priced from $100 - $150


camera snake.jpg
 
Hey have any of you used a camera snake? I see them on Amazon, and I want to poke around in some drains as I've been having some issues. Worth it, not? Is there another way to get a better idea of where the pipes go/map them out?

Picture for reference, usually priced from $100 - $150


View attachment 71308
I have a long one and some short ones (all connect to phones, none have their own screen as that makes them much much cheaper). There is almost a zero percent chance that you can shove that down the drain past the first elbow. You need to attach it to something else capable of being pushed along the drain. Image isn't great but a hell of a lot better than nothing
 
I have a long one and some short ones (all connect to phones, none have their own screen as that makes them much much cheaper). There is almost a zero percent chance that you can shove that down the drain past the first elbow. You need to attach it to something else capable of being pushed along the drain. Image isn't great but a hell of a lot better than nothing
Thanks for the feedback, interesting, can you attach it to a regular snake?
I might be a bit lucky as where I need to investigate it kinda straightforward not too much bending etc.
 
Thanks for the feedback, interesting, can you attach it to a regular snake?
I might be a bit lucky as where I need to investigate it kinda straightforward not too much bending etc.
Maybe? Ime, snakes need to spin to get around corners. You don't want to wind up the camera wire. Now, if you can attach the camera to the drum so it spins with the snake that can work. Another option that can work is a pressure washer sewer jet to pull it through (obviously the camera won't like a direct hit from the jet so some planning is required. A balloon blown up to the proper size may function as a pig with toilet flushes behind it.
 
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