Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 299 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

My main concern is what happens if both are on at the same time? Second concern, how long will the dampers last with what goes through a range hood?
My previous range hood and range hood microwave both included a damper as required. When I took them off for repairs, I did not find grease on the ducts or dampeners. Dunno, maybe it's because I eat lots of avocado toast?

Can you do a remote fan? Put fan downstream of y and let it pull from both locations. Backdraft is impossible. Definitely an unconventional setup though. Wiring to trigger fan could be interesting (wireless anywhere switches?) I think with normal fans the bathroom doesn't stand a chance with kitchen fan on. Either the damper will stay shut or it will open and kitchen air will go where it wants. Relative restriction before and after y determines how much kitchen air ends up in bathroom.
I am considering installing a duct booster fan that is pressure activated.

How bad an idea ? On a scale of 1:10 your a 9.8


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Cool so there's a chance. Smelling his own farts is fine. My concern is if it will burn his house down?
 
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Made the mistake of telling my wife I'm planning on taking parental leave for the month of April to do some riding...

I now have a list of things to do around the house...

FINALLY clean garage door from insulation overspray
Paint garage door
Learn to not be afraid of ladder
Remove the ugly window trim around our house
Paint the ugly window trim around our house
Caulk the garage door trim properly
Caulk all windows
Repaint trim
Caulk trim as its separating

FML...I should just stay at work.
 
Made the mistake of telling my wife I'm planning on taking parental leave for the month of April to do some riding...

I now have a list of things to do around the house...

FINALLY clean garage door from insulation overspray
Paint garage door
Learn to not be afraid of ladder
Remove the ugly window trim around our house
Paint the ugly window trim around our house
Caulk the garage door trim properly
Caulk all windows
Repaint trim
Caulk trim as its separating

FML...I should just stay at work.
That's a lot of caulking. May be time to grab a battery powered gun unless you want to look like popeye.
 
so we have a painted firplace mantle in the big room, it has a drywall box 'chimney' hiding the gas flue duct, its about 3x7 high and projects 1.5ft . We are considering a thin 1/4 - 3/8 groutless stone veneer, in a mig grey tone to add some texture to a huge expanse of pale grey wall. enitire house is a very light grey . We are generally pretty conservative in our color palete , do I go bold with a grey/green/brown slate ? or just stick with the neutral darker grey stone and enjoy the texture ?
 
so we have a painted firplace mantle in the big room, it has a drywall box 'chimney' hiding the gas flue duct, its about 3x7 high and projects 1.5ft . We are considering a thin 1/4 - 3/8 groutless stone veneer, in a mig grey tone to add some texture to a huge expanse of pale grey wall. enitire house is a very light grey . We are generally pretty conservative in our color palete , do I go bold with a grey/green/brown slate ? or just stick with the neutral darker grey stone and enjoy the texture ?
We have the fireplace in the middle of the house and light grey walls.

Kevin painted it dark grey and it fits very well into the general layout.

My cousins have a red brick fireplace which they painted dark grey in a light grey room and I personally preferred the contrasting colours to the surrounding walls.

EDIT:

8E3E9C9A-043B-4C2E-B034-8C4A0DD7B1E5.jpeg

Ours has a rough texture. Cousins’ almost looks like it was done with epoxy. It’s that glossy. Maybe that’s why I’m not a fan.
 
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so we have a painted firplace mantle in the big room, it has a drywall box 'chimney' hiding the gas flue duct, its about 3x7 high and projects 1.5ft . We are considering a thin 1/4 - 3/8 groutless stone veneer, in a mig grey tone to add some texture to a huge expanse of pale grey wall. enitire house is a very light grey . We are generally pretty conservative in our color palete , do I go bold with a grey/green/brown slate ? or just stick with the neutral darker grey stone and enjoy the texture ?
Any other colour contrasts in the area either small (frames, candles, etc) or large (doors, etc)?
If so you may want to match with those. If everything is basically a light grey throughout I'd go with something darker and you'll likely find after doing that you'll be getting more of these darker/bold items to match throughout the area.
Instead of committing to a colour of veneer why not just grab some paint in whatever contrasting colour you're thinking and coat it with that. That'll answer your question whether you like contrast or not without being permanent or costly. This is actually what we did at the recommendation of our tile/brick guy and we decided we liked the dark contrasting painted look better than stone vaneer.
 
We have the fireplace in the middle of the house and light grey walls.

Kevin painted it dark grey and it fits very well into the general layout.

My cousins have a red brick fireplace which they painted dark grey in a light grey room and I personally preferred the contrasting colours to the surrounding walls.

EDIT:

View attachment 59263

Ours has a rough texture. Cousins’ almost looks like it was done with epoxy. It’s that glossy. Maybe that’s why I’m not a fan.
Which fireplace is this yours, or your cousins?

Either way what @Hardwrkr13 said, from the above photo for this to stand out less or be more tied into the overall decoration you need some other darker elements in the room/area.
 
Which fireplace is this yours, or your cousins?

Either way what @Hardwrkr13 said, from the above photo for this to stand out less or be more tied into the overall decoration you need some other darker elements in the room/area.
This is ours. It's the biggest thorn in my *** in this house (outside of the electrical and insulation) as I can't easily remove it in order to open up the space.
 
Mentioned to wife lets just paint the drywall chimney a color similar to the stone veneer and see if we dig it , that makes 100% sense to me. Her thought , put the damn stone upo and if we dont like it , granade the chimney and re drywall.

every one that ever dated her owes me $100 for taking her out of circulation.
 
Plumber came today to check out my bathroom faucet leak. Managed to do everything from the top that he could (cartridges etc) as I mentioned before that the access to under the faucet set and hand shower is blocked in currently. The leak is due to something called a diverter just getting old. There’s a bunch of “O” rings that need replacing on it and there’s some lime deposits on the fitting that look a bit crusty. The plumber said to order a new part and that will sort things out except for one small hitch, I think this piece is discontinued. Also it’s not a common piece anyway it seems. Most other spouts of this kind that have a mechanism like this seem use the rod to operate the plug rather than divert water to a hand shower. The actual leak is at the opening on the back of the spout for the push/pull rod that operates the diverter. There’s a tiny “O”ring right at this point on the push/pull rod that has worn.

So…question. Assuming I can source the “O”rings is there any reason why I can’t reuse the old diverter if I give it a good soak in vinegar or something? Do brass plumbing fittings have a finite lifetime? This is 20 years old.

I’ve decided that I’m going to cut an access hatch in the front panel of the bath to get to the underside of the faucets anyway at some point as I’m not that comfortable with discontinued and hard to source parts for any future issues. I need to cut through natural slate tile mortared onto plywood board. Apparently a Diamond wheel on an angle grinder will do it just fine and using masking tape should minimize chipping. The diverter fix is until I get round to cutting the access panel.
 
Do you know the make and model of the of the diverter? I have some here from when I demoed bathrooms in the house...

The brass is likely OK but it may depend on water quality.
 
Do you know the make and model of the of the diverter? I have some here from when I demoed bathrooms in the house...

The brass is likely OK but it may depend on water quality.

American standard. Can’t find an exact match from images online so I’ve not been able to get a model. The bathroom place where we bought the thing 20 years ago thinks the spout doesn’t match the rest of the faucet set as the faucet set didn’t have a diverter option like this. I’ll take some pics.
 
Plumber came today to check out my bathroom faucet leak. Managed to do everything from the top that he could (cartridges etc) as I mentioned before that the access to under the faucet set and hand shower is blocked in currently. The leak is due to something called a diverter just getting old. There’s a bunch of “O” rings that need replacing on it and there’s some lime deposits on the fitting that look a bit crusty. The plumber said to order a new part and that will sort things out except for one small hitch, I think this piece is discontinued. Also it’s not a common piece anyway it seems. Most other spouts of this kind that have a mechanism like this seem use the rod to operate the plug rather than divert water to a hand shower. The actual leak is at the opening on the back of the spout for the push/pull rod that operates the diverter. There’s a tiny “O”ring right at this point on the push/pull rod that has worn.

So…question. Assuming I can source the “O”rings is there any reason why I can’t reuse the old diverter if I give it a good soak in vinegar or something? Do brass plumbing fittings have a finite lifetime? This is 20 years old.

I’ve decided that I’m going to cut an access hatch in the front panel of the bath to get to the underside of the faucets anyway at some point as I’m not that comfortable with discontinued and hard to source parts for any future issues. I need to cut through natural slate tile mortared onto plywood board. Apparently a Diamond wheel on an angle grinder will do it just fine and using masking tape should minimize chipping. The diverter fix is until I get round to cutting the access panel.
This sounds like one of these little projects that is going to evolve into something much larger.
 
Plumber came today to check out my bathroom faucet leak. Managed to do everything from the top that he could (cartridges etc) as I mentioned before that the access to under the faucet set and hand shower is blocked in currently. The leak is due to something called a diverter just getting old. There’s a bunch of “O” rings that need replacing on it and there’s some lime deposits on the fitting that look a bit crusty. The plumber said to order a new part and that will sort things out except for one small hitch, I think this piece is discontinued. Also it’s not a common piece anyway it seems. Most other spouts of this kind that have a mechanism like this seem use the rod to operate the plug rather than divert water to a hand shower. The actual leak is at the opening on the back of the spout for the push/pull rod that operates the diverter. There’s a tiny “O”ring right at this point on the push/pull rod that has worn.

So…question. Assuming I can source the “O”rings is there any reason why I can’t reuse the old diverter if I give it a good soak in vinegar or something? Do brass plumbing fittings have a finite lifetime? This is 20 years old.

I’ve decided that I’m going to cut an access hatch in the front panel of the bath to get to the underside of the faucets anyway at some point as I’m not that comfortable with discontinued and hard to source parts for any future issues. I need to cut through natural slate tile mortared onto plywood board. Apparently a Diamond wheel on an angle grinder will do it just fine and using masking tape should minimize chipping. The diverter fix is until I get round to cutting the access panel.
When we bought our house we found the water terrible because of a water softener. It turns out that mimico_polak's friend Kevin must have put it in. Everything in the house got salt water, including I think the lawns. I had to replace everything that was brass. Copper seems to be OK.
 
When we bought our house we found the water terrible because of a water softener. It turns out that mimico_polak's friend Kevin must have put it in. Everything in the house got salt water, including I think the lawns. I had to replace everything that was brass. Copper seems to be OK.
I may put a softener in the house to cut back on buildup on fixtures. As house was not built for both hard/soft and I don't want soft everywhere (I agree, it's gross to drink), I plan on putting the softener just on the line to the hot water tank. Cuts the deposits on fixtures by about half, keeps lots of crap out of the hot water tank. My parents built their house for both so kitchen and bathrooms had a separate hard water tap.
 

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