Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 301 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

1st pic - furnace board
2nd pic - 5 to 4 outside furnace
3rd pic - 4 to 4 from a/c ?
4th pic - existing thermostat
 

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1st pic - furnace board
2nd pic - 5 to 4 outside furnace
3rd pic - 4 to 4 from a/c ?
4th pic - existing thermostat
Don’t know if it helps but our thermostat was replaced with a Bluetooth unit and a wireless Bluetooth control board added to the furnace. There’s no wires attached to the thermostat and we can put it where we like. Works pretty well and we can add supplementary temperature monitors around the house too.
 
Today was a quick education for me on common household electrical switches, dimmers and sockets. We’ve had the same horrible beige coloured contractor special old style switches and sockets in the house for 20 years and with the place being painted they don’t match anything. Today I learned Lutron and Levitron switches and sockets can share the same deco wall plates and that all dimmers are not equal when it comes to LED lights. I also realized that someone was on crack when they wired some of the lights in the house. We have two lights separated by several walls that are operated by three separate switches. Not sure what to do about that one.

Anyway, should be a simple project to do along with adding some new lights around the house. It’s amazing how inexpensive LED fixtures have become now with the added bonus that they seem to be a lot lighter and easier to install.
Think about smart switches. They are cheap and easy to install and configure and can save electricity.
 
1st pic - furnace board
2nd pic - 5 to 4 outside furnace
3rd pic - 4 to 4 from a/c ?
4th pic - existing thermostat
So the board has terminals for two stage heat and two stage cool. It looks old though so I assuming you only have one stage heat and one stage cool.

Four wire running out to condenser is strange. Maybe had a heat pump at one point?
 
So the board has terminals for two stage heat and two stage cool. It looks old though so I assuming you only have one stage heat and one stage cool.

Four wire running out to condenser is strange. Maybe had a heat pump at one point?
Correct, one stage each and it is old, and yes, had a heat pump years ago. Thats why I'm not sure how much work to put into this since I'm sure we are due for a new furnace sooner than later.
 
Correct, one stage each and it is old, and yes, had a heat pump years ago. Thats why I'm not sure how much work to put into this since I'm sure we are due for a new furnace sooner than later.
You are setting yourself up for the new furnace with the new thermostat. Which thermostat are you planning on getting? Assuming gas furnace, your gas provider will probably give you a $75 rebate. New thermostat and sufficient wires will play nicely with new furnace/ac (assuming you dont plan on going with communicating/infinitely variable which all require a proprietary thermostat).

FWIW, I would investigate a heat pump. Should significantly cut gas usage in shoulder seasons. JT gives you $5k off the bill. Low temp heat pump and your old furnace may be fine for quite a while longer.
 
Yes, gas furnace. Planning on the Wyze with the $75 rebate, so $50 investment. I have a few Wyze cams and have never had an issue with them so wanted to stay with something I know well, and not costly or more features than I need or want but will also work with a new furnace.

A/C unit isnt that old but will have to look into a heatpump again now. I liked it when we had one but budget wouldnt allow again it when it needed replaced. Thanks
 
Yes, gas furnace. Planning on the Wyze with the $75 rebate, so $50 investment. I have a few Wyze cams and have never had an issue with them so wanted to stay with something I know well, and not costly or more features than I need or want but will also work with a new furnace.
That's pretty cheap. I know nothing about wyze thermostat so I cant comment. I was hoping to save more with thermostat but dont see a magical difference. So many variables and minimal data from before smart thermostat. I picked one that could monitor multiple phones and automatically let house temp change when phones were gone. I figure that's my best opportunity for saving. Also setup two stage for noise and comfort. Buyin was far higher than $50 though. Still not sure it will financially pay off.
 
Buddy asked me yesterday on whether this is possible...

He currently has a 220V / 40A service line to his basement stove and wants to remove the stove, connect the line to a sub-panel, and then run off a few 15A circuits off it instead.

I don't think it's a major issue, but I would probably change the 220V to a 110V feed from the main panel...but outside of that I don't see an issue and no need to rip up the walls to run another circuit just for that.

Thoughts?

@backmarkerducati and @SunnY S
 
Buddy asked me yesterday on whether this is possible...

He currently has a 220V / 40A service line to his basement stove and wants to remove the stove, connect the line to a sub-panel, and then run off a few 15A circuits off it instead.

I don't think it's a major issue, but I would probably change the 220V to a 110V feed from the main panel...but outside of that I don't see an issue and no need to rip up the walls to run another circuit just for that.

Thoughts?

@backmarkerducati and @SunnY S
You do not want a 110V line from main panel to subpanel. 220V/40A line will feed a subpanel (make sure neutral is not bonded to ground in subpanel). May be awkward to locate panel in a code compliant location given the wire he has to work with. Relabel breaker in main panel. Should use an electrician and have permit and inspection, yadda yadda yadda.
 
Buddy asked me yesterday on whether this is possible...

He currently has a 220V / 40A service line to his basement stove and wants to remove the stove, connect the line to a sub-panel, and then run off a few 15A circuits off it instead.

I don't think it's a major issue, but I would probably change the 220V to a 110V feed from the main panel...but outside of that I don't see an issue and no need to rip up the walls to run another circuit just for that.

Thoughts?

@backmarkerducati and @SunnY S
There will be some maybes....

The stove feed will need to include a ground wire at the correct size for this purpose. Some old stoves and wiring for them only had the two hots and a neutral, no ground. Assuming it is not really old this is likely fine.

It will need to be accessible and at the proper height (not at the floor like the outlet is now!), may or may not be possible depending on how it was run.

Just keep the 40amp breaker in the main panel wired as-is. The sub panel will have 240V hot to hot, hot to neutral will be 120v, just need to use the right sub-panel. The 120V sub circuits/breakers will just be one of the hots to neutral.

Sub panel will need to have neutral and ground separated, usually just means removing the green bonding screw from the neutral bus.
 
Thanks to you both for the quick response @backmarkerducati and @GreyGhost I'll probably see him tonight so I can discuss it with him.

He's super handy so he'll do a lot more research, or just call an electrician.
 
It's hard to say how much I saved by installing a Nest stat, but I'm pretty sure it's lots. When both of us leave the house, heat goes down to 16, cool goes to 28. Once we are 5km from home, it goes back to regularly scheduled programming.

I installed Nest in Nov 21. Dec21-Mar22 we averaged 49hrs of heating per week, December22 to today is averaging 33hrs.
 
It's hard to say how much I saved by installing a Nest stat, but I'm pretty sure it's lots. When both of us leave the house, heat goes down to 16, cool goes to 28. Once we are 5km from home, it goes back to regularly scheduled programming.

I installed Nest in Nov 21. Dec21-Mar22 we averaged 49hrs of heating per week, December22 to today is averaging 33hrs.

With all the people working from home I think there’s a lot of sad smart devices itching to do fancier things now.
 
It's hard to say how much I saved by installing a Nest stat, but I'm pretty sure it's lots. When both of us leave the house, heat goes down to 16, cool goes to 28. Once we are 5km from home, it goes back to regularly scheduled programming.

I installed Nest in Nov 21. Dec21-Mar22 we averaged 49hrs of heating per week, December22 to today is averaging 33hrs.
One stage or multi-stage furnace? Nest knows which stage its calling for but chooses to ostrich in the data and track straight hours instead of btu. Makes things look better as you ran for less time at full speed while trying to recover after cooling off. It probably does save some gas but they are playing silly bugger with the stats to make people believe there is a huge improvement.
 
I have about 200ft of heating cables working overtime right now. Just switched on another wrapped round a downspout from the new flat roof as I noticed a small ice waterfall growing on the outside of the pipe. The other was already wrapped and working well. I thought one might be enough. My summer work will be to thread the cables through the downspouts instead of wrapping them round the outside. Hopefully I only have to use the cables for a few weeks each year. It’s not an insulation issue, it’s just a flat roof issue.
 
One stage or multi-stage furnace? Nest knows which stage its calling for but chooses to ostrich in the data and track straight hours instead of btu. Makes things look better as you ran for less time at full speed while trying to recover after cooling off. It probably does save some gas but they are playing silly bugger with the stats to make people believe there is a huge improvement.
One stage, 25 year old Rheem 85%, 55000btu.
 
Starting a new project, this one is for the wife. Part of our basement has two 12x12 offices, his and hers.

Gutting -- rebuild will be her 12x22 craft room. Gas fireplace, sink, cabinets, flooring and a couple of power upgrades for her machines.
 
That's pretty good. I am averaging about 58 hours a week at 66k btu to hold 69 ( drop to 60 when everyone is out)
I'm heating 1500x2 levels x 8', or 24000 cubic feet.
 

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