A family member bought a house that came with three thermostats and no instructions. I figured it out for them. Cool system. One thermostat on main floor was furnace. Second thermostat in lower-level (wo basement) controlled inlet air damper on wood stove. Third thermostat on main level controlled a transfer fan to suck heat out of room with wood stove. Old school hole in the floor would have been simpler and worked without power but it was kind of cool.
My parents house originally had the hole in the floors for heat (original coal heat, Victorian). Parents upgraded to forced air when they bought it....
My fathers name was not Kevin but he went with what he knew... That heating hole was covered with "some wood" and sheet metal with the W2W carpet over it (you could hear it pop when you walked over it). My mother once tried to refinish/restore the painted kitchen cabinets, only to find out they were full of bondo, actual bondo...
My parents house originally had the hole in the floors for heat (original coal heat, Victorian). Parents upgraded to forced air when they bought it....
My fathers name was not Kevin but he went with what he knew... That heating hole was covered with "some wood" and sheet metal with the W2W carpet over it (you could hear it pop when you walked over it). My mother once tried to refinish/restore the painted kitchen cabinets, only to find out they were full of bondo, actual bondo...
One of my places up north has the pass thru grates to the upstairs bedrooms. They are blocked off as it has forced air, but they are still there.
It also has 2 whirly birds on the roof that are ducted to return vents in the bedroom ceilings -- when open they draw heat out of the second floor in the summer.
I solved 90% of my bath faucet set plumbing issues without having to cut an access panel through slate. I managed to find some tiny O rings that fit the hand shower diverter piece at a hydraulics shop. Cleaned the fitting in a bath of CLR which worked incredibly well, the thing came out shiny. Put everything back together and now that all works well. Last issue is a leak right at the hand shower piece when the water is diverted to it. Initially I thought that would be the easiest to fix with a new washer and some teflon tape and a replacement hand shower head but weirdly the leak seems to be at the very end of the hose rather than the junction of where it meets the shower head. Not sure what to do with this. Wondering if there’s some shrink fit waterproofing tape I can use round the end of the hose to see if that solves the issue. I may have to cut that access panel after all.
I solved 90% of my bath faucet set plumbing issues without having to cut an access panel through slate. I managed to find some tiny O rings that fit the hand shower diverter piece at a hydraulics shop. Cleaned the fitting in a bath of CLR which worked incredibly well, the thing came out shiny. Put everything back together and now that all works well. Last issue is a leak right at the hand shower piece when the water is diverted to it. Initially I thought that would be the easiest to fix with a new washer and some teflon tape and a replacement hand shower head but weirdly the leak seems to be at the very end of the hose rather than the junction of where it meets the shower head. Not sure what to do with this. Wondering if there’s some shrink fit waterproofing tape I can use round the end of the hose to see if that solves the issue. I may have to cut that access panel after all.
How often is the wand being used in a location where a leak at the hand piece matters? As for tape, there is another thread that talks about silicone tape that sticks to itself. It may work but won't be pretty. Is it a bare hose or encased in a bendy metal jacket? With the jacket on I doubt repair is possible.
Can't you just buy a new hose? presumably you have access to both ends of hose without going through slate.
Booked a couple weeks off to go sledding but weather isn’t cooperating so ordered a 10-pack of led pot lights for the exterior plus a wifi switch so I can add a few into the shed and tie it into the house switch. I don’t like sitting still so that’s my project.
I solved 90% of my bath faucet set plumbing issues without having to cut an access panel through slate. I managed to find some tiny O rings that fit the hand shower diverter piece at a hydraulics shop. Cleaned the fitting in a bath of CLR which worked incredibly well, the thing came out shiny. Put everything back together and now that all works well. Last issue is a leak right at the hand shower piece when the water is diverted to it. Initially I thought that would be the easiest to fix with a new washer and some teflon tape and a replacement hand shower head but weirdly the leak seems to be at the very end of the hose rather than the junction of where it meets the shower head. Not sure what to do with this. Wondering if there’s some shrink fit waterproofing tape I can use round the end of the hose to see if that solves the issue. I may have to cut that access panel after all.
There are many different sealants and heat shrinks. Heat shrink comes in different types and shrink ratios. Basic stuff is one layer and usually 2:1. It's good for abrasion resistance and some electrical protection but isn't completely waterproof. Then there is melt liner that oozes a filler to accommodate shapes and adhesive liner that uses a version of hot melt glue to line the tube. It glues itself to the inner item depending on the ability of the inner part to accept adhesion, a problem with a lot of plastics. Ratios of 3:1 are common.
Personally I would be at least a bit skeptical not seeing the situation.
How often is the wand being used in a location where a leak at the hand piece matters? As for tape, there is another thread that talks about silicone tape that sticks to itself. It may work but won't be pretty. Is it a bare hose or encased in a bendy metal jacket? With the jacket on I doubt repair is possible.
Can't you just buy a new hose? presumably you have access to both ends of hose without going through slate.
It’s used every time the wife has a bath for her hair. Enough that she would miss it. I can only access one end of the hose at the hand shower end, the other end fits into the faucet junction under the faucets behind the slate. I had another think about this and wondered if limescale deposits could just be the issue too since cleaning the diverter seemed to work really well. I would have thought that deposits there would just impede flow though, not cause a leak.
It’s the standard metal braided jacket hose. There’s not that much that seems user serviceable at the end of the hose, I can see a plastic grommet with a flat face that a sealing washer would sit on. I might be able to pry that out.
It’s used every time the wife has a bath for her hair. Enough that she would miss it. I can only access one end of the hose at the hand shower end, the other end fits into the faucet junction under the faucets behind the slate. I had another think about this and wondered if limescale deposits could just be the issue too since cleaning the diverter seemed to work really well. I would have thought that deposits there would just impede flow though, not cause a leak.
It’s the standard metal braided jacket hose. There’s not that much that seems user serviceable at the end of the hose, I can see a plastic grommet with a flat face that a sealing washer would sit on. I might be able to pry that out.
I’ve had reasonable success on fittings , not in my house , with that rubber emergency shrink tape from CTC. It might look ghetto ,but it stops leaks . Could buy you a year or so .
Not sure if I told the story before but the widow that used to live next door wanted me to fix the shower plumbing and I though the least destructive method would be to go in through the back wall of the closet in her son's room. She was a nice lady, a member of every women's church league in the city.
She went to clean out the closet and found it knee deep in porn magazines.
Don’t underestimate a church lady’s thirst for porn , or the dirty stuff they get up to . My best youthful bangfests involved the good girls from church . Amen.
Ok...looking for some good guidance here...narrowing it down to 2 options for siding...
Option #1 - 2" insulation, and no work inside. Installation of the 2x3 vertically, and just cannot figure it out HOW to mount it to the exterior brick in order to be secure. Is there a bracket? Drill and Tapcon through the narrow side of the wood (issue with splitting)?
Option #2 - 1" insulation and update on the interior with time. 2x3 can be secured with Tapcons easily through the wide face of the wood.
Both options include gluing / PL of the insulation to the brick, as using the screws / Tapcons through it is tough to hit the mortar...
It's a little bit different than the previous schematic I threw up.
Thoughts? I'm tempted to buy some 4x8 sheets of 1" insulation and install it in the shed against the house...just to see if it makes a difference on that particular wall section.
Should I include a bracket to mount it? The metal studs that are for sale at HD?
That's literally the one item I can't get my head wrapped around...how to mount the narrow face of the 2x3 against the brick exterior.
I wouldn't think you need either on the jamb. Normally you can get a good seal with silicone, foam and/or folding seals. For the sill, an automatic retracting seal can make a big difference in some installations (especially if finish floor elevation is too close to sill height).
Wow. That seems like it would fill a big gap. Rental house or owned? Problem in the summer too or just the winter? I suspect a spring seal will be better able to cope with the big curve but in this kind of application, I would want to hold seals in my hand with the project in find. Try to move/flex the seal to conform with the mental gap to see if it cooperates.
I hold stuff to my wooden kitchen cabinet doors with a magnet. I tell people the doors are ironwood.
In reality there is another magnet recessed into the interior of the door. If anyone is planning to bore the recess with a forstner bit make sure you measure the thickness of the panel as it may be thinner than the frame.
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