|
|
|
Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
I doubt you'd pull out a stone. You could get caught on the edge of raised stones (and chip them if you were really moving). I've seen quite a few wavy interlock driveways but not many that are actually coming apart.
48Connor
Well-known member
I installed one of these tonight in my kitchen.
I have one of these sitting on my desk which I've tried twice now to install into the end of my kitchen peninsula.
The first attempt failed since this outlet just about touched all 5 sides of the box and left zero room for any wires.
For the second attempt I went to Home Hardware and bought a box with some room in the back end for the wires. I go to install it and the box hits the dishwasher inside the cabinet. Don't want to hammer in some clearance into a $1000 dishwasher, so I reinstall all the old crap.
On the upcoming third attempt I have ordered an extension ring for the faceplate, which should solve all my problems. Not sure how it will look though.
Mikedezo44
Well-known member
Like others have said will likely need to be pulled up and re-levelled every 8-12 years. Especially if you're parking vehicles in the same spot. Unless you do a concrete pad underneath like I've seen in some high end landscaping expect parts of it to shift.
Yeah, the wheels always create depressions which then leads to increased water in those locations which leads to increased settling which leads to deeper depressions . . .
Even common drive lanes in interlock normally telegraph after a few years.
If they do poor concrete prep work the soil settles and the slab cracks. Interlock creates waves, concrete creates steps. A typical ashpalt job lasts for 20 years but is prone to the same settlement as interlock.
Thanks for the warning. I was thinking of the same but the plug-in USB chargers are cheap and seem less problematic.
I will probably end up mounting a multiport Anker under the valance by the undercaninet lights. Charge four or six at once. I've had pretty good luck with them. My primary one has been in use for ~eight years and has slowly lost channels so now it is down to two port but the rest have no issues. I try to have one wherever I normally spend time. So far I have avoided the kitchen to minimize wires and crap on the counter.
Due to the construction of our house...I can't install any of the larger boxes on the exterior walls (or interior structural walls). There's only a thin piece of strapping behind the drywall...so they chipped out spots in the block in order to install those. Unless I want to keep chipping at it...I just didn't bother.
I recently bought a few Qi chargers from CT that were on sale for $10, but they didn't come with the connector, only the USB. Have peppered them around the house as we have 2 charges by the bed and it's much better than plugging in.
www.canadiantire.ca
I recently bought a few Qi chargers from CT that were on sale for $10, but they didn't come with the connector, only the USB. Have peppered them around the house as we have 2 charges by the bed and it's much better than plugging in.
General PDP Template
www.canadiantire.ca
Friend called me with an issue while she's waiting for a plumber...
Old house in Toronto, multi-story. Hot water is working downstairs, but zero water upstairs from the hot line. I'm thinking clog / leak along the line, or ice formed if the line is against a wall that's not insulated.
Also, her furnace died this morning.
Fun times.
Old house in Toronto, multi-story. Hot water is working downstairs, but zero water upstairs from the hot line. I'm thinking clog / leak along the line, or ice formed if the line is against a wall that's not insulated.
Also, her furnace died this morning.
Fun times.
You can also get boxes that have extra volume, without extra depth. Maybe those would work in your case. rona.ca/en/product/iberville-device-box-3004lh-rt-0320097?viewStore=55070&cq_src=google_ads&cq_cmp=8143180960&cq_con=88023293927&cq_term=&cq_med=&cq_plac=&cq_net=u&cq_pos=&cq_plt=gp&&cm_mmc=paid_search-_-google-_-aw_smart_shopping_generic_lighting-_-71700000064493931&gclid=Cj0KCQiA8vSOBhCkARIsAGdp6RR-AuTDIIAKaD-BGPjbwhSZ59l6MKnRR1UviB9co4ti2OvsUUpWzEMaAqAcEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Unless it's a catastrophic leak which should be easily visible, you'd still have some water upstairs. Given the temperature and complete lack of flow, my money is on a frozen pipe. Open cabinet doors with plumbing behind them as a start (although less helpful without furnace).
48Connor
Well-known member
Sounds like a frozen line.
They didn't have these are Home Hardware, but it might work. I was really dreading the extension ring since I think it will look bad. I'll stop by Rona and check this out, thanks!
I lived in one of those some time ago, steel pipes that were plugged to almost nothing. If someone turned on a tap downstairs there would be nothing upstairs. I would hope they've all been renovated to copper / plastic.
If the line froze will it start to leak when it thaws? Hopefully the two problems are not related and there are simple fixes. A lot of those places had radiators as well.
Thanks @48Connor, @nobbie48 and @GreyGhost. I'm surprised a HOT water line would freeze...but I guess if it's sitting in the line overnight not being used then it'll cool off enough to freeze. Let's hope it doesn't burst her line.
First thing I asked is whether the furnace intake got frozen over from the exhaust (happened to us in our older home), and whether she's on radiators.
Also told her to drain out the line if possible as if it bursts with water pressure going in...it'll make for a very bad day.
First thing I asked is whether the furnace intake got frozen over from the exhaust (happened to us in our older home), and whether she's on radiators.
Also told her to drain out the line if possible as if it bursts with water pressure going in...it'll make for a very bad day.
With no flow a hot water line drops to ambient temperature pretty quickly (especially if installed in an outside wall. By design, the hot water tank only passively heats the first few feet of pipe (normally heating pipe is wasted energy). If the hot water line is touching the exterior brick and cold water line has an air gap, that would explain why it went first (or under/over insulation or she ran cold water to brush her teeth but hot hasn't been used in a day or . . .).
Well her furnace shutting down overnight doesn't help the situation.
I told her to drain the line and just fill it up as needed. Last thing you want is that pipe to burst while it's under pressure.
When furnaces get annoyed in cold or snow, you were on the right path. Check the intake/exhaust first to make sure they are clear. A snow drift could easily form overnight and put her out of commission but it's easy to fix.
Depending on the plumbing layout you can get chimney effect on a hot water line. It doesn't sound like she has it.
I once had to calculate temperature drop for a 4" fire stand pipe in a parking garage. If it would freeze in less than 2 hours in a worst case scenario (-20°F) the tracing had to go on the emergency generator. By upping the insulation to 2" it was OK. A flood from a 4" line can wipe out a lot of cars. Insurance companies worry.
|
|
|
|
|