Dad decided to buy a new stove for the house as the parts alone are $300 or so....new stove apparently $800. Considering the existing unit is 15+ years (and even KitchenAid doesn't have the part numbers/drawings) he's happier this way.
If I thought about going that way, I would be investigating how to run the new line inside the old one. Basically they run a cone through to break the existing pipe and expand it and behind the cone is the new pipe. Same ID as original, new pipe, minimal digging. I suspect you need to do it from a pit outside and stop the cone when it gets to your basement hole. I've never done it though so the details are foggy.
Yes that's what he recommended. Pipe bursting is the methodology.
Not cheap, but I'm also not planning on doing it at this point in time. Just waiting for the plumber to let me know how much space he needs, and how much $ to replace the drain to PVC.
Interesting. The upper is two elements. I've never looked that closely. I have a replaced a few lowers but never an upper. It's a cool show when your oven decides to turn itself into a welder and arcs from a hole in the element.
The online stores don't have the model in their systems, and said the other pieces should 90% fit...but they're not responsible if they don't.
KitchenAid has the model in their system...but not the parts book. So need to pull the parts and then check what it says so they can match it with a part that supersedes it.
Dad decided to buy a new stove for the house as the parts alone are $300 or so....new stove apparently $800. Considering the existing unit is 15+ years (and even KitchenAid doesn't have the part numbers/drawings) he's happier this way.
Our stove is ~35 years old and repairs haven't been $300 over the 35 years. I love my coil top. A friend with a Bosch says a new panel is $800. A new switch for mine is <$40. If I found an old coil top going for scrap I'd gut it for parts.
Our stove is ~35 years old and repairs haven't been $300 over the 35 years. I love my coil top. A friend with a Bosch says a new panel is $800. A new switch for mine is <$40. If I found an old coil top going for scrap I'd gut it for parts.
Visited someone that had a Blue something (Flame, star, ?) from costco. Good stuff. Basically a bbq. No fancy electronics. Star burners. Definitely a solid choice. Of course I don't think they have them anymore.
Visited someone that had a Blue something (Flame, star, ?) from costco. Good stuff. Basically a bbq. No fancy electronics. Star burners. Definitely a solid choice. Of course I don't think they have them anymore.
Blue Star appliances are still around , just not through Costco . It’s a Chinese special but pretty decent . The star burners have been thermodors thing forever , but you know Chinese .
Buddies 12k wolf is a complete piece of crap , 1 yr old , two tech visits and if you want 350 you set it to 385 . Really . 12k …..
Blue Star appliances are still around , just not through Costco . It’s a Chinese special but pretty decent . The star burners have been thermodors thing forever , but you know Chinese .
Buddies 12k wolf is a complete piece of crap , 1 yr old , two tech visits and if you want 350 you set it to 385 . Really . 12k …..
I wasn't very impressed with my buddies wolf either. Stacked circle burners and not a single one of the simmer burners would light as the jets were plugged. Design fail. A pot boiling over shouldn't require surgery to get your stove working again. That one was something like 20K. They're pretty but style was put ahead of function long ago. The oven knobs have digital displays to tell you the set temperature. I can only imagine how much one of those would be to replace (probably more than a normal oven).
Interlocking - who’s done it and any words of wisdom, things you’d do differently, tricks or techniques?
Considering doing our front entry path myself as it’s only about 19’ and I don’t mind doing the labour.
It's not complicated, but its hard work and looks old and rough after about 10 years. I'm ripping ours interlock out and replacing with patterned concrete.
Our neighbour put theirs in when we did our inteock in 2009, it looks like new. Ours looks like it needs to come out.
It's not complicated, but its hard work and looks old and rough after about 10 years. I'm ripping ours interlock out and replacing with patterned concrete.
Our neighbour put theirs in when we did our inteock in 2009, it looks like new. Ours looks like it needs to come out.
Most of the patterned concrete I have seen is a death trap. So slippery when wet or snowy that people I know with patterned concrete walkways put out warning signs. You can mitigate by resealing every year with sealer mixed with sand but most people dont do that and it doesn't hold up for the entire winter.
It's not complicated, but its hard work and looks old and rough after about 10 years. I'm ripping ours interlock out and replacing with patterned concrete.
Our neighbour put theirs in when we did our inteock in 2009, it looks like new. Ours looks like it needs to come out.
I knew a guy that did his own interlock the same time a contractor did his neighbours. The contractors did a quick pass with a compactor while buddy spent the day going back and forth. Buddy's was good for ages but the neighbour's was ugly in a year or two.
The layers of subsoil and fill all have to be even but that takes time and money.
They are finding that screenings deteriorate the interlock over time 20+ years. I've pulled pieces that were half rotten on the underside. Now there is more use of HPB, High Performance Base which drains better.
I put a USB / 115v outlet in the kitchen island and it put out an RF interference that screwed up my rocketfish second kitchen speakers .
Wife says she needs to charge her phone more than I need second speakers in the kitchen anyway and the 80amp stereo with two speakers already annoy the neighbors when the kitchen doors are open .
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