Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

[Mad Mike]

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Not really buying it. MadMike talked of gutting and drywalling every room along with new wiring. Old houses have stone foundations and such. My poured concrete foundation has needed no work in the over 30 years I've lived here. Likewise the only drywall I've replaced was a small bathroom with plastic "tile" that effed the drywall when it came off.

My house was built in 1969, it has a poured 10” foundation. Alcan was big into building products, aluminum wire and insulated aluminum siding was popular. So we’re water cools A/C units that dumped back to the drain because town water wasn’t metered. Ceiling insulation was R12,walls R7 without Vapor barriers. The house was 30 years when I bought it.

I cut my heating and cooling cost by 1/2, or about $2500/year. I cut my insurance cost by $500/year by eliminating aluminum wiring.

I also have a more comfortable and safe house.

 

[crankcall]

We passed on buying two houses because of aluminum wiring and electric heat . I didn’t have the money to refit at the time . Nice houses , just victims of the era .
Like my
Like my KiTec plumbed house , fourteen grand to replumb it and fix all the drywall. I could not have afforded that thirty yrs ago . Many of my neighbours are putting it off , but it drops your property value fifteen to twenty K


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[timtune]

My house was built in 1969, it has a poured 10” foundation. Alcan was big into building products, aluminum wire and insulated aluminum siding was popular. So we’re water cools A/C units that dumped back to the drain because town water wasn’t metered. Ceiling insulation was R12,walls R7 without Vapor barriers. The house was 30 years when I bought it.

I cut my heating and cooling cost by 1/2, or about $2500/year. I cut my insurance cost by $500/year by eliminating aluminum wiring.

I also have a more comfortable and safe house.

Gadzooks! That list sounded like you were renoing an "old" house. My house was built in the 60's as well but so far it's been only aesthetic upgrades with the exception of a new roof and furnace over 30 years.

 

[mimico_polak]

Our house is 'old' simply because it was built in approx 1958. Solid bones, sold walls and overall good.

With the insulation we did to the house, yes I can feel a difference and the heat holds better in most rooms. The living room / kitchen area doesn't have that yet because it's got big windows, a french door that leaks like a sieve, and the like. Overall we can feel a difference...but will never see that 30k return on the work done (thank Christ I didn't buy pay someone 75-150k like we were quoted for the work).

With time, and possibly this summer I'll rip off all the interior trim around the windows and doors and see if there are air leaks in there.

Considering insulating the garage door simply with some R5 panels glued to the interior...but need to confirm whether the garage door will be able to open still with the additional weight. Should def help some.

My main regret about buying this house is the half basement. I didn't take into consideration how much that space is worth and regret not buying a house with it.

If it didn't cost so much I would dig it out myself from the laundry room and make the space...but my understanding is the footings don't go all the way to the basement level...so that adds footing. I posted an assumed footing drawing many pages ago...but it went something like this...



Blue - garage
Orange - Living room and basement
Green - still under consideration if I find some free money laying around (I won't) - vertical expansion above the living room.
Black - assumed footings (exagerrated)

I can't dig around the outside to confirm because Kevin decided to build a 4ft concrete pad around the house...and I'm not going to do that.

 

[GreyGhost]

Our house is 'old' simply because it was built in approx 1958. Solid bones, sold walls and overall good.

With the insulation we did to the house, yes I can feel a difference and the heat holds better in most rooms. The living room / kitchen area doesn't have that yet because it's got big windows, a french door that leaks like a sieve, and the like. Overall we can feel a difference...but will never see that 30k return on the work done (thank Christ I didn't buy pay someone 75-150k like we were quoted for the work).

With time, and possibly this summer I'll rip off all the interior trim around the windows and doors and see if there are air leaks in there.

Considering insulating the garage door simply with some R5 panels glued to the interior...but need to confirm whether the garage door will be able to open still with the additional weight. Should def help some.

My main regret about buying this house is the half basement. I didn't take into consideration how much that space is worth and regret not buying a house with it.

If it didn't cost so much I would dig it out myself from the laundry room and make the space...but my understanding is the footings don't go all the way to the basement level...so that adds footing. I posted an assumed footing drawing many pages ago...but it went something like this...

View attachment 71917

Blue - garage
Orange - Living room and basement
Green - still under consideration if I find some free money laying around (I won't) - vertical expansion above the living room.
Black - assumed footings (exagerrated)

I can't dig around the outside to confirm because Kevin decided to build a 4ft concrete pad around the house...and I'm not going to do that.

Worst case you need to add another spring to your garage door to take the extra weight. Personally, I would investigate a replacement door. Uninsulated door has many deficiencies that are hard to address. Seals, single pane windows, etc. I hate exposed foam. It releases bad chemicals if you burn it. I don't want to die in the garage. You could encapsulate it but that increases weight. Also, while you can hit most of the door, there will be many areas you can. Between each panel won't be insulated and likely won't have a seal. If you want to insulate, I'd use semi-rigid foil-faced. No fire risk. To be honest, given the door design and windows, I'm not sure insulating the panels will make a huge difference.

If you do new garage door, they sell at least 1 3/8 and 1 3/4 thick doors. I would investigate both as I doubt cost is a big jump. Pay attention to seals. They will have double pane windows so you don't have a huge leak there.

 

[mimico_polak]

Worst case you need to add another spring to your garage door to take the extra weight. Personally, I would investigate a replacement door. Uninsulated door has many deficiencies that are hard to address. Seals, single pane windows, etc. I hate exposed foam. It releases bad chemicals if you burn it. I don't want to die in the garage. You could encapsulate it but that increases weight. Also, while you can hit most of the door, there will be many areas you can. Between each panel won't be insulated and likely won't have a seal. If you want to insulate, I'd use semi-rigid foil-faced. No fire risk. To be honest, given the door design and windows, I'm not sure insulating the panels will make a huge difference.

If you do new garage door, they sell at least 1 3/8 and 1 3/4 thick doors. I would investigate both as I doubt cost is a big jump. Pay attention to seals. They will have double pane windows so you don't have a huge leak there.

Good calll. I didn't want to spray the door. Was planning on buying R5 rigid insulation with foil and basically just cut it to the sizes and add it on.

I'd say it adds another 10-15lbs max considering how like a 4x8 R5 panel is.

 

[Relax]

"Luxury" townhouse or condo means 6-8" poplar baseboards instead of 3-4" MDF and if your builder is extra luxurious they may throw in some tiny crown molding. Behind the finishes, there is normally zero difference.

Yeah, luxury townhouse is an oxymoron anyways. I guess expected more because it was a Vandyk project, and they had a pretty good reputation back then. Not surprised that they're bankrupt now based on my experience, but apparently that's par for course in the construction business.

 

[backmarkerducati]

Gadzooks! That list sounded like you were renoing an "old" house. My house was built in the 60's as well but so far it's been only aesthetic upgrades with the exception of a new roof and furnace over 30 years.

A 1960s house IS an old house (what do you consider an old house?)! It was an old house IMO when purchased at 30 years old. Luckily/hopefully in the first 30 years it was not molested by previous owner(s) which can be a big cause of problems.

Upside. IMO bones tend to be good but in that era...
Asbestos almost for sure in multiple materials.
Lead paint, yes.
NMSC 60°C (check for burnt up wiring insulation in ceiling fixtures, specially where high wattage bulbs were used in the past--fire hazard).
60 year old electrical service and panel still there?
Plumbing in the 60+ year range, lots of coming issues there.
Insulation or lack of, any there from new... asbestos is highly possible.
Windows.
No exterior maint has been done?
much more typical old house problems.

 

[nobbie48]

"Luxury" townhouse or condo means 6-8" poplar baseboards instead of 3-4" MDF and if your builder is extra luxurious they may throw in some tiny crown molding. Behind the finishes, there is normally zero difference.

I was having a bad day on a cono repair when one of the directors stopped by to chat about the wonderful high end building. I annoyingly replied that the difference an economy building and a luxury one was that the luxury one had marble flooring and the econo one had linoleum. Same builders, same materials and same workers.

 

[Hardwrkr13]

Good condition garage doors pop up for sale all the time where people are changing the look. That could be an option. Either way I’d change the door instead of trying to make the old one more efficient. I’m assuming the rest of the garage is insulated and any draft areas already taken care of.

 

[GreyGhost]

Good condition garage doors pop up for sale all the time where people are changing the look. That could be an option. Either way I’d change the door instead of trying to make the old one more efficient. I’m assuming the rest of the garage is insulated and any draft areas already taken care of.

He's got a double door (or maybe 1.5?) which may help or hurt him. They probably come up less but there are also fewer people looking for them. While a used door may work, unless it was close to free, I don't know if I would go that route. He has updated the rest of the look of his house. Investing time and money in a dated garage door doesn't make sense to me. It's still worth a look as maybe someone replaces a nice looking new door with something ridiculous like a glass door or goes mikes route and converts the garage to living space.

 

[nobbie48]

A 1960s house IS an old house (what do you consider an old house?)! It was an old house IMO when purchased at 30 years old. Luckily/hopefully in the first 30 years it was not molested by previous owner(s) which can be a big cause of problems.

Upside. IMO bones tend to be good but in that era...
Asbestos almost for sure in multiple materials.
Lead paint, yes.
NMSC 60°C (check for burnt up wiring insulation in ceiling fixtures, specially where high wattage bulbs were used in the past--fire hazard).
60 year old electrical service and panel still there?
Plumbing in the 60+ year range, lots of coming issues there.
Insulation or lack of, any there from new... asbestos is highly possible.
Windows.
No exterior maint has been done?
much more typical old house problems.

Our house was signed off in 1960, a side split in Toronto. It has good bones but we've done some interior renos including interior insulation. We went with 2X4s, FG and drywall. No working at heights or weather concerns. Wiring was replaced when it was practical. If you have any concerns about the wiring check the kitchen light. It probably gets the most use.

Plumbing is all copper and I haven't found any asbestos. Fixtures changed with renos or as needed.

One major cost was waterproofing the basement. Back then they slapped on a coat of tar over the parging. Bubble wrap is the way to go but labour intensive. No more damp basement.

A breaker panel replaced the fuse one.

 

[backmarkerducati]

Our house was signed off in 1960, a side split in Toronto. It has good bones but we've done some interior renos including interior insulation. We went with 2X4s, FG and drywall. No working at heights or weather concerns. Wiring was replaced when it was practical. If you have any concerns about the wiring check the kitchen light. It probably gets the most use.

Plumbing is all copper and I haven't found any asbestos. Fixtures changed with renos or as needed.

One major cost was waterproofing the basement. Back then they slapped on a coat of tar over the parging. Bubble wrap is the way to go but labour intensive. No more damp basement.

A breaker panel replaced the fuse one.

Yes/agree the kitchen is the most likely one to have burnt up insulation as people liked to put multiple high wattage incandescent bulbs in them back in the day--first place to check. The 60°C wiring at the time just could not handle it, but any overhead light is a risk IME.

Asbestos was a miracle substance back then. While many people may recognize pipe/duct wrap and maybe the version of vermiculite that has it, it was also used in plaster/mud, ceiling and wall texture, linoleum (sheet and tile), mastic, siding, roofing...the list goes on, they put that **** in everything. Some worse than others depending the condition and if it is being disturbed (and how much). Good shape (not friable) I lose zero sleep until I need to disturb it. It was even sold as fake snow!

 

[mimico_polak]

Good condition garage doors pop up for sale all the time where people are changing the look. That could be an option. Either way I’d change the door instead of trying to make the old one more efficient. I’m assuming the rest of the garage is insulated and any draft areas already taken care of.

There's one section of the garage side door where it's wide open for air. Tried some seals but didn't work. Weather stripping hasn't been installed as it was stupidly cold this week so neither I nor dad felt like doing that.

This weekend is warmer so maybe we'll install it to see if that helps. There is no active heating in the house, but properly insulating that one door should help as the rest of the garage is insulated from every wall...except the floor (exposed concrete).

 

[Mad Mike]

A 1960s house IS an old house (what do you consider an old house?)! It was an old house IMO when purchased at 30 years old. Luckily/hopefully in the first 30 years it was not molested by previous owner(s) which can be a big cause of problems.

Upside. IMO bones tend to be good but in that era...
Asbestos almost for sure in multiple materials.
Lead paint, yes.
NMSC 60°C (check for burnt up wiring insulation in ceiling fixtures, specially where high wattage bulbs were used in the past--fire hazard).
60 year old electrical service and panel still there?
Plumbing in the 60+ year range, lots of coming issues there.
Insulation or lack of, any there from new... asbestos is highly possible.
Windows.
No exterior maint has been done?
much more typical old house problems.

My 30 year old house was molested, and the only maintenance it had was windows and a shingleover. No floor or wall was ever painted. The basement was paneled over 1x2 furring, basement wiring was orange extension cords, and the fusebox had a few penny repairs.

I think the other 100 molestations are blanked from my mind.

I partially knew what I was getting into, but there were a few surprises. Here are the best:

• Water cooled AC plumbed into pool.
• First floor 2x8 joists were notched 4" deep to add curtain valances.
• Basement wiring was orange extension cords maretted together behind the paneling.
• A copper running through the garage was replaced with a section of garden hose because it had frozen and burst a couple of times.
• A short section of lead waterpipe pipe was used to stretch a gas line to a fireplace.
• Both the gas and electrical connections to pool equipment were spliced underground.

I've dealt with some incredible framing botches in century homes.

 

[crankcall]

we owned a farmhouse with balloon framing ( google that mess) , actual size 2x8 joists nailed to 20ft wall studs , also actual 2x8s . entire second floor suspended on about 100 5" nails , hammered through and clinched over . Was over 100yrs old when we had it , didnt fall down . However the wall cavities were just that , 8" gaps . few spots somebody had poured sawdust down from some holes near the attic . You couldnt have candlelight dinners on windy days. Bet that place would have lasted 11 minutes if a fire started .

 

[Scuba Steve]

we owned a farmhouse with balloon framing ( google that mess) , actual size 2x8 joists nailed to 20ft wall studs , also actual 2x8s . entire second floor suspended on about 100 5" nails , hammered through and clinched over . Was over 100yrs old when we had it , didnt fall down . However the wall cavities were just that , 8" gaps . few spots somebody had poured sawdust down from some holes near the attic . You couldnt have candlelight dinners on windy days. Bet that place would have lasted 11 minutes if a fire started .

As they say they don't build them like they used to

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[Relax]

Good calll. I didn't want to spray the door. Was planning on buying R5 rigid insulation with foil and basically just cut it to the sizes and add it on.

I'd say it adds another 10-15lbs max considering how like a 4x8 R5 panel is.

The opener shouldn't be doing any heavy lifting. The spring(s) should offset the weight of the door so that it can be easily lifted by hand as well as stay in place when let go, so best case scenario, your existing spring(s) may need to be wound a little more to compensate, or worst case like mentioned, you may need new springs.

I'd focus on any air gaps between the garage door and opening, whether you get a new door or not. The door should be adjusted so that it's as flush as possible when closed. This new track system looks interesting in how it pushes the door against the opening:

ThermoTraks | Seals for Garage Doors

ThermoTraks energy-saving seals for garage doors are available for any size door. Our thermal seals for garage doors are the only option for garages with A/C.

thermotraks.com

A similar option that's been around longer is Green Hinges, which have springs to push the rollers against the track to force the door towards the oprining:

Green Hinge Canada - Shop Residential and Commercial Garage Hinges

Green Hinge Canada is the only approved Canadian distributor of the Green Hinge Garage door system. It provides a tight garage door seal, saving you energy & money.

greenhingecanada.ca

 

[nobbie48]

Yes/agree the kitchen is the most likely one to have burnt up insulation as people liked to put multiple high wattage incandescent bulbs in them back in the day--first place to check. The 60°C wiring at the time just could not handle it, but any overhead light is a risk IME.

Asbestos was a miracle substance back then. While many people may recognize pipe/duct wrap and maybe the version of vermiculite that has it, it was also used in plaster/mud, ceiling and wall texture, linoleum (sheet and tile), mastic, siding, roofing...the list goes on, they put that **** in everything. Some worse than others depending the condition and if it is being disturbed (and how much). Good shape (not friable) I lose zero sleep until I need to disturb it. It was even sold as fake snow!

View attachment 71924

I sawed some Transite panels way back in the 1970's. It's now made with different killer ingredients.

 

[timtune]

Just for the record, for me an "old" house would be stone foundation, lath and plaster, knob and tube etc...

(I was BUILT in the 60's, ain t no way that's old!)

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