Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 500 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Currently it’s 2” of rigid insulation.

Question is can I use fiberglass mesh for the thin brick? Or do I need metal mesh for the thin brick.
The mesh type doesn't make a difference (metal of fiberglass), both are there to help maintain the stability of the scratch coat, and neither works better than the other for stucco or thin brick veneers.

They do have different fastening requirements, make sure you follow the manufacturers guide for staple/fastener spacing.
 
Looking to get some thoughts here from the smart people...

Back of the house bottom 3ft were originally planned for stucco, as opposed to the thin brick as the front. Now we're considering going to thin brick all the way around.

I already have the fiberglass lathe (?) as opposed to the metal for the bricks as the plan was for stucco.

Any experience with utilizing fiberglass over metal lathe in this type of application? It seems 'fine' on the surface (pun intended) but I wanted to double check prior to committing.
From the peanut gallery, Minimizing the number of finishes on a house is usually a good thing so go brick IMO.

I see the one-of-everything renos and it's too busy for my tastes.
 
I found out why my tiles cracked in the bathroom. The tale was over cement board and the crack follows the seam.

The board is screwed to strapping and taped but there was no anti fracture membrane.

Now it's either a major gut out or a tub surround.
 
I found out why my tiles cracked in the bathroom. The tale was over cement board and the crack follows the seam.

The board is screwed to strapping and taped but there was no anti fracture membrane.

Now it's either a major gut out or a tub surround.
Cut in a row of accent tiles?
 
I found out why my tiles cracked in the bathroom. The tale was over cement board and the crack follows the seam.

The board is screwed to strapping and taped but there was no anti fracture membrane.

Now it's either a major gut out or a tub surround.
The way they do tile has changed a lot. In my house they actually poured "concrete" over and between the joists (with slats below between the joists) adding steel mesh, a once common method. There was an era where concrete board on the floor was state of the art. Today it is all about the decoupling membrane. Old school, stop movement, new school decouple movement.

I am sure there were other iterations. Sometimes the old school guys still do what they "know" for new installs!
 
Cut in a row of accent tiles?
I thought of that but the existing tiles, while having a fine crack in them, are really stuck on. The sample tile didn't pop off and the hammering needed to get it out caused more fine cracks in another direction.

I have a couple of spare tiles and want to stick one in while I entertain options. Now to find a patch kit of adhesive.

Company is coming in a few weeks so no time to do it right, a gut out or ???
 
I thought of that but the existing tiles, while having a fine crack in them, are really stuck on. The sample tile didn't pop off and the hammering needed to get it out caused more fine cracks in another direction.

I have a couple of spare tiles and want to stick one in while I entertain options. Now to find a patch kit of adhesive.

Company is coming in a few weeks so no time to do it right, a gut out or ???
Crack on floor or vertical face? Throw down a bath mat?
 
Crack on floor or vertical face? Throw down a bath mat?
It's on the shower wall and WAS cosmetic until I pulled the tile. A spare gets cemented in today.

I found a scrap of membrane I picked up somewhere and will see it there is room for it without the tile protruding.

For educational purposes I wonder what would have been the best way to avoid the problem when the job was done 30+ years ago. The crack developed in the first year.
 
when a house took ayear to build , there was time for things to settle and dry and move around a bit, now that a house takes two weeks, uncouple membrain is really become important . But you'll still get low cost installers in subdivision houses
 
I met a guy 40 years ago and he waited a year af
when a house took ayear to build , there was time for things to settle and dry and move around a bit, now that a house takes two weeks, uncouple membrain is really become important . But you'll still get low cost installers in subdivision houses
I met a guy 40 years ago the let his new build house sit for a year once framed and enclosed before he did drywall.
 

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