Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 500 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Currently it’s 2” of rigid insulation.

Question is can I use fiberglass mesh for the thin brick? Or do I need metal mesh for the thin brick.
The mesh type doesn't make a difference (metal of fiberglass), both are there to help maintain the stability of the scratch coat, and neither works better than the other for stucco or thin brick veneers.

They do have different fastening requirements, make sure you follow the manufacturers guide for staple/fastener spacing.
 
Looking to get some thoughts here from the smart people...

Back of the house bottom 3ft were originally planned for stucco, as opposed to the thin brick as the front. Now we're considering going to thin brick all the way around.

I already have the fiberglass lathe (?) as opposed to the metal for the bricks as the plan was for stucco.

Any experience with utilizing fiberglass over metal lathe in this type of application? It seems 'fine' on the surface (pun intended) but I wanted to double check prior to committing.
From the peanut gallery, Minimizing the number of finishes on a house is usually a good thing so go brick IMO.

I see the one-of-everything renos and it's too busy for my tastes.
 
I found out why my tiles cracked in the bathroom. The tale was over cement board and the crack follows the seam.

The board is screwed to strapping and taped but there was no anti fracture membrane.

Now it's either a major gut out or a tub surround.
 
I found out why my tiles cracked in the bathroom. The tale was over cement board and the crack follows the seam.

The board is screwed to strapping and taped but there was no anti fracture membrane.

Now it's either a major gut out or a tub surround.
Cut in a row of accent tiles?
 
I found out why my tiles cracked in the bathroom. The tale was over cement board and the crack follows the seam.

The board is screwed to strapping and taped but there was no anti fracture membrane.

Now it's either a major gut out or a tub surround.
The way they do tile has changed a lot. In my house they actually poured "concrete" over and between the joists (with slats below between the joists) adding steel mesh, a once common method. There was an era where concrete board on the floor was state of the art. Today it is all about the decoupling membrane. Old school, stop movement, new school decouple movement.

I am sure there were other iterations. Sometimes the old school guys still do what they "know" for new installs!
 
Cut in a row of accent tiles?
I thought of that but the existing tiles, while having a fine crack in them, are really stuck on. The sample tile didn't pop off and the hammering needed to get it out caused more fine cracks in another direction.

I have a couple of spare tiles and want to stick one in while I entertain options. Now to find a patch kit of adhesive.

Company is coming in a few weeks so no time to do it right, a gut out or ???
 
I thought of that but the existing tiles, while having a fine crack in them, are really stuck on. The sample tile didn't pop off and the hammering needed to get it out caused more fine cracks in another direction.

I have a couple of spare tiles and want to stick one in while I entertain options. Now to find a patch kit of adhesive.

Company is coming in a few weeks so no time to do it right, a gut out or ???
Crack on floor or vertical face? Throw down a bath mat?
 
Crack on floor or vertical face? Throw down a bath mat?
It's on the shower wall and WAS cosmetic until I pulled the tile. A spare gets cemented in today.

I found a scrap of membrane I picked up somewhere and will see it there is room for it without the tile protruding.

For educational purposes I wonder what would have been the best way to avoid the problem when the job was done 30+ years ago. The crack developed in the first year.
 
when a house took ayear to build , there was time for things to settle and dry and move around a bit, now that a house takes two weeks, uncouple membrain is really become important . But you'll still get low cost installers in subdivision houses
 
I met a guy 40 years ago and he waited a year af
when a house took ayear to build , there was time for things to settle and dry and move around a bit, now that a house takes two weeks, uncouple membrain is really become important . But you'll still get low cost installers in subdivision houses
I met a guy 40 years ago the let his new build house sit for a year once framed and enclosed before he did drywall.
 
Can you add one more course of bricks to the bottom of the corner? Flying brick looks unnatural. To feel right, it should have what is at least a plausible connection to support.
Apparently these bricks shouldn’t be down to the ground (according to a few articles and subs that came to quote) to keep them out of snow, etc.

I’ve got parging everywhere else and this will be done later.

The bricks you see to the concrete shouldn’t actually be there so I’m trying to figure out best way forward.
 
Wired Smoke/CO Alarms That Do Not Suck?

I installed eight First Alert combo hardwired smoke/CO alarms and in a couple of years half have failed. Constant fire false alarms and/or they keep beeping that the battery is bad, even with new batteries (and being hardwired shouldn't use the batteries except for a power outage).

I am not interested in anything smart, just hardwired, interconnected dumb alarms, prefer combo smoke/CO. Does anyone have a recommendation? At this point I will be replacing all of them but regardless of brand the reviews seem crappy these days.
 
Wired Smoke/CO Alarms That Do Not Suck?

I installed eight First Alert combo hardwired smoke/CO alarms and in a couple of years half have failed. Constant fire false alarms and/or they keep beeping that the battery is bad, even with new batteries (and being hardwired shouldn't use the batteries except for a power outage).

I am not interested in anything smart, just hardwired, interconnected dumb alarms, prefer combo smoke/CO. Does anyone have a recommendation? At this point I will be replacing all of them but regardless of brand the reviews seem crappy these days.
Not entirely helpful for you but I replaced all mine last year. For a couple reasons (mainly being their ability to annunciate which zone triggered them) I went with nest protects. With the dumb detectors, they would all go off with no delay so you had no idea where to focus your search for the cause. I used mostly wired with one wireless so I could pickup the garage. Lots of house fires start there and it takes a long time before you get notice inside the house. Afaik, no dumb detectors let you combine wireless and wired in the same alarm group. Painfully expensive but otherwise no operational issues. A definite pain point is they are programmed to die seven years after manufacture. Some retailers have stock a few years old. It takes some searching to find enough that are made in the last few months (even if you buy from Google they shipped some more than a year old).

Iirc the old ones were first alert combo smoke/CO that talked but were more than 7 years old. They weren't complaining but I don't want to die.

Edit:

I would have been happy with dumb detectors with a delay so the alarm zone goes off for a minute and then everything goes off. I couldn't find them. That wouldn't have solved the garage problem but would have been many hundreds cheaper.
 
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I haven’t planted anything since we built this house. I built gardens after I did the interlock the end of ‘22 and then we had a couple people do garden suggestions/layouts for us and we narrowed down the design this Summer. I spent the past two days prepping the gardens and planting.
Unfortunately a third of what we need isnt available in stock so we might have to wait until the Spring for the rest but at least it’s a good start and the design is done.
Cat has more hiding places now too so he’s happy.
 
FAK

Got woken up by the sound of water outside. At first, I thought it was my lawn sprinklers but that went on for far to long.

Went to check it out, yup. Water supply to the sprinklers system burst under my interlocking.

FML

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