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Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
Almost wanna sing ‘I’m too sexy for this hood, too sexy for this hood, Polak gonna leave me’…
The curb appeal is 100x better than before…
The curb appeal is 100x better than before…
TBH my Toronto mind originally thought going with siding was an error due to side splits being a mid century phenomenon and they are usually all brick. Mixing eras can be detrimental. Putting 1957 fins on a current BMW for example.
However I realized I was focused on the Toronto market where due to the great Toronto fire everything was brick. Lots of other places used different logic until the Arab oil embargo of the early 1970s caused a re-think here.
It looks really good and breaks up the cookie cutter look of suburbia. Kudos!
One of the things I do like about the USA is their architecture and housing colours. To complete the look you will need a Civil War cannon on the front lawn.
This also helps him deal with the neighbourhood speeder. A shot across the bow should make him go somewhere else.One of the things I do like about the USA is their architecture and housing colours. To complete the look you will need a Civil War cannon on the front lawn.
Thanks! It is a huge difference seeing it in person and driving up to the house compared to the old limestone brick. I prefer brick myself...but not the brick I had.
I can't wait to see the house once the brick veneer and stucco gets done also. But that's a ways away. Currently I'm trying to finish up the walls that require the use of the scaffold just so I can get rid of it.
Security cameras....Currently wiring the exterior of the house to have cameras installed in the future and am in need of recommendation for locations to place them.
Currently the following is on the drawing:
RED - terminated cable for a camera
BLUE - doorbell camera install location by front door
ORANGE - unterminated cable
I screwed up by not running the cable to the top left of the drawing where it could be pointed toward the back yard, but too late now. Also that doesn't allow for monitoring of the small laneway (not a huge deal as the bottom left camera should catch anyone going that way).
Any other recommendations for placing the cameras? Orange still has about 30ft-40ft of cable which would allow me to run it toward the front door and get a better view point of the front yard.
Currently the following is on the drawing:
RED - terminated cable for a camera
BLUE - doorbell camera install location by front door
ORANGE - unterminated cable
I screwed up by not running the cable to the top left of the drawing where it could be pointed toward the back yard, but too late now. Also that doesn't allow for monitoring of the small laneway (not a huge deal as the bottom left camera should catch anyone going that way).
Any other recommendations for placing the cameras? Orange still has about 30ft-40ft of cable which would allow me to run it toward the front door and get a better view point of the front yard.
Are you recording footage all day or just events as they happen via motion detection? Motion detection is best with horizontal movement so ie pointing cameras such that any intruder would be moving left to right or right to left across the path of the camera rather than straight toward it. Not such a big deal though as you can angle the camera accordingly. Just something to remember. 24h recording it’s probably not as much of an issue.
Given what you have, I would point orange so the left edge catches the front door. That covers the front of your house (and if you are paranoid, it isn't easy to disable orange without the doorbell cam catching you).
If possible I would add one or two over by kevins shed. One aimed along the fence catching much of the rearyard, one aimed towards the driveway. As it is you only have one camera on driveway and that makes it easy for a parked car to mask the plate of a second car.
Haven't gotten to that stage yet. Trying to learn more about camera systems, options, etc. The cabling is CAT6 run around the entire house envelope.
Hmm...I can still add multiple cameras at the top right and bottom right which would cover the front and rear yards completely.
There's a good chance that the orange camera has enough cable to meet the bottom right spot, but not 100% until I unspool it. But can always run another line along the right side of the house. Orange could 100% make it to the midpoint, where it is fairly easily to pull it off as it's only about a 7-8ft height there.
AllistonGT
Well-known member
I believe most homes in southern Ontario are brick because the abundance of clay here. Especially homes built in large numbers (subdivisions). Houses are built with what is in abundance around us.
Stone, wood, clay....
Personally If I were building a custom house, clay brick would be low on my list of materials.
Part of it is pricing and perceived permanence. Not that long ago, some developments near niagara avoided brick as the sales price did not support the major expense. They were vinyl siding. Not sure if that trend continues. Houses in woodbridge were mostly brick as that was what their target consumer wanted. I have no idea who the target consumer is anymore nor what they want.
What to put under outdoor stainless countertops for support/noise, advice?
Looking for some advice on a DIY outdoor countertops project I am doing. I have a sheet of 347 stainless (already have it), 4X10, 16 gauge that I plan to cut down for outdoor countertops. It will be supported by strong L brackets fastened to the house brick wall (no cabinets under it at this point), maybe every 12 or 16 inches. I do not want any fasteners going through the stainless.
It is very stiff and hard material but I figure I need something under it to keep it flat, strength if someone stands or sits on it and to deaden noise (sheet metal like bongs when hit). My initial thoughts are marine plywood (3/4) underneath and either epoxy it or maybe silicone it to the stainless? I will give the counters a slight angle downwards and add a stainless drip edge on the outside to shed, manage rain water. My main concern is expansion and contraction, plywood to stainless but maybe other things I am not thinking about?
Is marine plywood a good solution for this (under the stainless)? Any other suggestions? Adhere the stainless to the plywood and attach the plywood to the brackets with slots for expansion?
The counter will be L shaped and one piece. Four feet along one side and six feet along the other, standard 2 feet deep. The area is not covered but does not receive a ton of sunlight (pretty shaded). I will likely add a sink at some future point.
Looking for some advice on a DIY outdoor countertops project I am doing. I have a sheet of 347 stainless (already have it), 4X10, 16 gauge that I plan to cut down for outdoor countertops. It will be supported by strong L brackets fastened to the house brick wall (no cabinets under it at this point), maybe every 12 or 16 inches. I do not want any fasteners going through the stainless.
It is very stiff and hard material but I figure I need something under it to keep it flat, strength if someone stands or sits on it and to deaden noise (sheet metal like bongs when hit). My initial thoughts are marine plywood (3/4) underneath and either epoxy it or maybe silicone it to the stainless? I will give the counters a slight angle downwards and add a stainless drip edge on the outside to shed, manage rain water. My main concern is expansion and contraction, plywood to stainless but maybe other things I am not thinking about?
Is marine plywood a good solution for this (under the stainless)? Any other suggestions? Adhere the stainless to the plywood and attach the plywood to the brackets with slots for expansion?
The counter will be L shaped and one piece. Four feet along one side and six feet along the other, standard 2 feet deep. The area is not covered but does not receive a ton of sunlight (pretty shaded). I will likely add a sink at some future point.
How much sound deadening do you need? We just purchased some cheap yoga mats from Amazon to cut up and use for cushioning for a windowsill for our dog. They are essentially just big rolls of dense rubbery material. I can imagine they’d be great for various purposes for around $25ish.
Mounting it probably deals with the ring. Remember, someone is probably going to put 200 lbs on the edge of that counter 2' from the wall. That isn't trivial. At least a few of your braces should be triangles or legs to deal with the moment. I haven't done it but I wouldn't be too concerned with differential expansion. The size is pretty small and you aren't in a constrained opening. To avoid water buildup, I would be inclined to give it a slight slope out from the wall.
If your mounting solution has openings (eg individual mounts or a frame as opposed to a full sheet of plywood), dynamat or similar on the bottom will kill the ring. You don't need complete coverage, just a few pads.
If you really want something different, have a roof over table and a few aircraft cables down through table to framing below. Probably three cables along the outside edge (one in each corner). Roof can deal with the moment as it is attached at multiple heights on the wall. Be careful with roof design, forces are far different that a normal roof experiences (pulling down at "columns" instead of pushing up).
DownUnder
Well-known member
When using only 2 cameras on the front of a house I usually set them up like this, don't mind my crappy paint skills, I'm on cell. Most cameras have about 80 to 90 degree field of view so you can capture the entire frontage of the property this way.
Thanks! Unfortunately I cannot install the left camera anywhere else right now as that location is committed. The one on the right can be installed facing forward, but that would cause 2x cameras onto the driveway. I agree with your second suggestion of moving the camera to the middle of the right part.
AllistonGT
Well-known member
Of coarse if the builder is looking to go really cheap then vinyl is the go too. Other options cost more than brick. Stone, stucco, stone slabs...
Also, the clay bricks of today are not the bricks of yesterday. Brick sills made 30 - 40 + years ago lasted. I don't think thats being done anymore. Todays bricks wont stand up to that challenge.
The supports will be either made from 2X or 4X outdoor capable wood or I may make them out of galvanized steel I weld together. The shape will be L with a diagonal support brace and I plan to run to within ~an inch of the edge of the countertop edge (22.5 to 23 on the top of the brace)--black in sketch. I will likely also place a strip for it to sit on at the wall all along the back (white block first sketch, may be stainless angle). The countertop will slope away from the wall for rain and I will make a drip edge along the outside out of other stainless angle.
Rough sketches, side view, top view.
Then rough idea of the corner and overall area next, really rough
I think I need something to run under the stainless for additional support between the braces (the plywood or what is better?) that will also cut down on the ring. Then how to bond the two together? The drip edge will be made from 304 angle as I do not have a brake to bend the 347 sheet. I also do not want any fasteners through the stainless surface. Stainless is 16 gauge (technically .063), type 347--just happen to have it.
My plumbing stack is on the other side of that basement window which I will fill in at some point (stupid spot) and I can put an outdoor sink there in the future (taking some artistic license with code) with shutoff/disconnect abilities for winter. The sink is future as I may need to do some other code work first...
Area is not covered and I do not plan on doing cabinets under the countertop now, just those supports.
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AllistonGT
Well-known member
Marine plywood or waterproof mdf. Rows of PL to bond stainless to substrate. Tape down the edges. We bond metal to melamine, mdf, plywood all the time. No need to over think it.The supports will be either made from 2X or 4X outdoor capable wood or I may make them out of galvanized steel I weld together. The shape will be L with a diagonal support brace and I plan to run to within ~an inch of the edge of the countertop edge (22.5 to 23 on the top of the brace)--black in sketch. I will likely also place a strip for it to sit on at the wall all along the back (white block first sketch, may be stainless angle). The countertop will slope away from the wall for rain and I will make a drip edge along the outside out of other stainless angle.
Rough sketches, side view, top view.
Then rough idea of the corner and overall area next, really rough
View attachment 62470View attachment 62471
View attachment 62472
View attachment 62473
I think I need something to run under the stainless for additional support between the braces (the plywood or what is better?) that will also cut down on the ring. Then how to bond the two together? The drip edge will be made from 304 angle as I do not have a brake to bend the 347 sheet. I also do not want any fasteners through the stainless surface. Stainless is 16 gauge (technically .063), type 347--just happen to have it.
My plumbing stack is on the other side of that basement window which I will fill in at some point (stupid spot) and I can put an outdoor sink there in the future (taking some artistic license with code) with shutoff/disconnect abilities for winter. The sink is future as I may need to do some other code work first...
Area is not covered and I do not plan on doing cabinets under the countertop now, just those supports.
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