Progress!
|
|
|
Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
Its looking really good mp.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
When you invite anyone over thst identifes as "her", tell them no high heels - they destroy trex.
The trex original was an ok product , not great . It was better than wood , however they did have serious mildew issues .
Once the new product line came, about 10 yrs ago they moved to an encapsulated product , no mildew issues and a really durable top surface . One of tbe new problems is it’s not flippable anymore , the top is the top .
This just got finished up , it’s mid level Trex , but the Color we wanted , it’s my 4th trex deck , I’m reasonably happy . The railings are not trex , these match the house better and came from Lowes . I had a quote for rails to match the house exactly but it was 4K for 30 ft of rail .
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com mobile app
Once the new product line came, about 10 yrs ago they moved to an encapsulated product , no mildew issues and a really durable top surface . One of tbe new problems is it’s not flippable anymore , the top is the top .
This just got finished up , it’s mid level Trex , but the Color we wanted , it’s my 4th trex deck , I’m reasonably happy . The railings are not trex , these match the house better and came from Lowes . I had a quote for rails to match the house exactly but it was 4K for 30 ft of rail .
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com mobile app
Out PT deck doesnt look TOO bad after close to 4 years.
But time for a refresh is not this year.
But time for a refresh is not this year.
What will you do to it? Sand and seal it? Or?
For now I’m planning on sanding and sealing it…currently I have no time to start another project.
Just picked up material to frame for shed pad…dad thinks I need a wire mesh for the 8x10 pad…I disagreed.
He still thinks I need a bomb shelter.
Speaking of which…anyone show me HOW to prep the pad to install wiring at a later date? Planning on pouring this weekend so want to make sure I’ve got everything ready.
I thought oioioi already did (subject to discussion). Run a grey pvc conduit (or two) through the slab in line with a wall where you want the panel. Fix in place so concrete pours around it and it remains plumb and looks quality. Sweep elbow (or large radius bent conduit) underground headed out towards power source (at 24" below grade). Thats it for now. I would cap ends somehow so it doesn't get full of schmoo or become a rodent access tunnel.
Ah snap must've missed the details.
Not planning on digging up the yard just yet...so for now just want to make an entrance path into the shed. As this shed is only going to get 120V, don't need a panel here.
The shed closer to the house will have a 220V line running to it, but wife doesn't want me ripping apart the ceiling to make that happen...
OBC says 5" slab is minimum where you require a mesh...I'm doing 3.5".
What does the brain trust say? Do I go bomb shelter or no for $150?
Or check kijiji...
What does the brain trust say? Do I go bomb shelter or no for $150?
Or check kijiji...
My pressure treated deck is 25 years old and still fine. I pressure wash it when it accumulates enough dirt to be slippery when wet. The decking is full 2X6.
I wouldn't bother with mesh in a slab the small but it's no biggie for three sheets of mesh. For me it would be the nuisance of going for the stuff.
Electrically, a big sleeve through the slab lets you fine tune later. How much power will you need out there?
My shed (Illegally) has one 15 amp GFI circuit and never needed more. How much time do you plan to spend in there?
I wouldn't bother with mesh in a slab the small but it's no biggie for three sheets of mesh. For me it would be the nuisance of going for the stuff.
Electrically, a big sleeve through the slab lets you fine tune later. How much power will you need out there?
My shed (Illegally) has one 15 amp GFI circuit and never needed more. How much time do you plan to spend in there?
You could do something similar with direct burial cable and leave the coil hanging on the outside of the shed. It will be cheaper than conduit plus thhn but less flexible as you can't add wires in the future. To make your future life easier, whatever you do, make sure that you have something in place from at least 6" above slab to at least 24" below grade. That saves trying to dig right to the edge of the slab when extending the connection.
1. Agreed with the PT...I'll pressure wash it next spring and re-coat. I didn't treat the gazebo from Yardistry and now looks like garbage. I'll have to do that at the same time.
2. Thanks, I think it's overkill and HD sells 50ft for $150 (found much cheaper online in Bolton)
3. No more than lights / a few plugs 15A is plenty.
4. Not a lot, that one will be primarily storage. The bigger one beside the house will be converted into a workshop.
When we rebuilt my daughter's front porch pillars the contractor went down four feet and poured footings that had to be inspected. When he did the block work it too had to be inspected. The cavities needed rebar and had to be inspected. The contractor went light on the rebar using 1/2" instead of the code 3/4". Voids had to be filed with concrete.
Overkill? The original columns were 80 years old and set on a flat stone buried a foot down from the surface.
It was near the driveway for the house, not Hitler's Atlantic wall.
I smell underthinking with the rebar. A 125 mm slab and the rebar has me thinking about the Gardiner and it's spalling issues due to the lack of concrete over the rebar. The rebar should be stainless, mill run accountability.
So…I’m not sure what you’re saying?When we rebuilt my daughter's front porch pillars the contractor went down four feet and poured footings that had to be inspected. When he did the block work it too had to be inspected. The cavities needed rebar and had to be inspected. The contractor went light on the rebar using 1/2" instead of the code 3/4". Voids had to be filed with concrete.
Overkill? The original columns were 80 years old and set on a flat stone buried a foot down from the surface.
It was near the driveway for the house, not Hitler's Atlantic wall.
I smell underthinking with the rebar. A 125 mm slab and the rebar has me thinking about the Gardiner and it's spalling issues due to the lack of concrete over the rebar. The rebar should be stainless, mill run accountability.
Yes to rebar…or no to rebar?
I’d put mesh in the slab , only so if it inadvertently cracks the two sections stay level , you dont get a 1” bump on one side .
Never pressure wash a PT deck , use a spinning driven scrub brush or a manual brush with a deck cleaner. The bacteria that is going to cause rot at end joints and cracks gets driven further in by a pressure washer and accelerates the rot .
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
Never pressure wash a PT deck , use a spinning driven scrub brush or a manual brush with a deck cleaner. The bacteria that is going to cause rot at end joints and cracks gets driven further in by a pressure washer and accelerates the rot .
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
@oioioi and @backmarkerducati what’s the consensus on running 15A cable outside along the ground? Any way to armour it?
I ask because Kevin was really good at concrete and shortest path is under 4” of concrete…
I ask because Kevin was really good at concrete and shortest path is under 4” of concrete…
I believe that is called an extension cord....
Not sure on code rules in this context for conduit over the slab but it seems like a bad idea to me.
Now, is it feasible to get a raceway or armoured cable under the poured slab? Protection needs to extend at least 2" out from wire. you could dig 6" under slab edge, lay wire and backfill.
Subrule 8) This subrule permits electrical wiring installed in electrical raceways and
armoured or metal-sheathed cables to be buried beneath a grade level concrete slab,
provided that the concrete slab is at least 100 mm thick. Examples of permitted electrical
raceways are Rigid PVC conduit, and Rigid Type DB2 conduit. The concrete slab will
provide adequate protection from any digging operations, provided that the location is
marked in a conspicuous, legible and permanent manner after the installation.
I think he is talking about on top not under.... under is a no brainier if it can be done now.
|
|
|
|
|