Hammer drill, table saw, and mitre saw are all wired. And I'm not planning on buying new ones for this.There is a whole thread about cordless tools ….
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Any you may never see one. If you are doing only a few holes, the time saved by not needing to run power can overcome that deficit. If you want speed, switching to a rotary hammer from a hammer drill makes a huge difference. A cordless rotary hammer will beat a corded hammer drill every time by a substantial margin.When it comes to hammer drills I have yet to see a 18/20v cordless that can drill masonry as quick as a good corded one.
I gave up on battery tools years ago. Since then went back to cord, and bought a $50 drill (ryobi), and it's been great, never loses power or power ability. Hammer drill also cord.Hammer drill, table saw, and mitre saw are all wired. And I'm not planning on buying new ones for this.
But let's just call me lazy and we're all good.
The LiPo tools are much better than the cordless of old (NiCd and NiMH), and in many cases they are better than corded. But as noted, regular hammer drills in the 18v/20v (which is actually the same BTW...18V with load 20V without, enter marketing department) just don't work as well as a decent corded hammer drill IME (as an exmaple my 20 year old Makita corded runs circles around my latest and greatest Bosch).I gave up on battery tools years ago. Since then went back to cord, and bought a $50 drill (ryobi), and it's been great, never loses power or power ability. Hammer drill also cord.
I got my saw back after getting fixed and it still has an intermittent cutting-out issue moreso when it's warm and under load so I can see how it's more difficult to diagnose.. I'll check vent hose aa well as the in-tank hose and screen to see if I find any issues then it'll be a backup saw.You spelled MS261 wrong. Having used both the home gamer and professional stuff, I have a clear preference. Since I live in a subdivision now, I just have a farm boss. It is a heavy pig compared to the good saws with similar power. My brother has possession of the good saw (and come to think of it, maybe mine too, I haven't looked in a while).
I have a Stihl concrete saw and it's always been a pig to start but works well once it's going, even with a dirty filter.I got my saw back after getting fixed and it still has an intermittent cutting-out issue moreso when it's warm and under load so I can see how it's more difficult to diagnose.. I'll check vent hose aa well as the in-tank hose and screen to see if I find any issues then it'll be a backup saw.
I ended up buying a new Stihl MS250 C-BE. Was going to get the regular 250 but the easy2start on the C-BE is so worth it. Not a gamechanger for me now but when I'm well into retirement age hopefully still using this saw I'm sure I'll be happy I opted for it.
Mine is over 30yrs old. Not often used, but fires on the 2nd tug just about every time. Choke slider at ~80% on......then back off. It don't like 100% choke to fire up.I have a Stihl concrete saw and it's always been a pig to start but works well once it's going, even with a dirty filter.
I sent Stihl a nasty note suggesting since I spent so much time pulling the recoil I could do just as well if they skipped putting in a motor and attached the recoil to the blade.
I don't know if this is only for my saw but the fuel cap has a hollow that holds the correct amount of oil for a tank of gas. It helps if you run out of mix and have to eyeball the ratio in the field, borrowing straight gas from where you can.
That type of tool is great for metal fab work, tubing etc. I used corded versions plenty many, many moons ago building roll cages etc. But the formfactor has flexibility limits on what/where you can cut.There’s a cordless Rigid bandsaw deal on RFD right now for $77 down from $250…very tempted but I’m trying to work out where I might use it. I already have the hacksaw (another great tool).
It can be a poverty chainsaw for branch cleanup. Often sawzall type tools and small branches give you more vibration than cutting. Bandsaw pulls the branch against the stop and makes quick work of it. This assumes branch is small enough to fit in the throat. If it's not, a sawzall will work well anyway.That type of tool is great for metal fab work, tubing etc. I used corded versions plenty many, many moons ago building roll cages etc. But the formfactor has flexibility limits on what/where you can cut.
For the casual home user you can cover all the use cases if you have a sawzall, angle grinder, etc. already. I do quite a bit of metal fab at home and I cannot justify one. Even at $77, but it is compelling if you are Rigid ecosystem.
Stop it. I have no willpower when it comes to power tools.It can be a poverty chainsaw for branch cleanup. Often sawzall type tools and small branches give you more vibration than cutting. Bandsaw pulls the branch against the stop and makes quick work of it. This assumes branch is small enough to fit in the throat. If it's not, a sawzall will work well anyway.
With a little effort, you can build a base to use it as a conventional bandsaw with a table (you can buy them but the base will cost you a lot more than $77).
Even for pvc jobs (pool piping or ent), it fills a role that can be done by others but at an order of magnitude improvement in speed over most other options (and you get a clean cut). For these jobs, a miter saw can also work if you have one available and have room near the work area but I often don't bother dragging it out for a few cuts. Bandsaw is easier to move.
If I had rigid batteries (which I don't), I would pick one up as it can easily save a ton of time in a single job. Needing to invest in batteries as well rules it out for me unless the job was in progress and going slowly.
Oh boy…guess I’m going to HD…There’s a cordless Rigid bandsaw deal on RFD right now for $77 down from $250…very tempted but I’m trying to work out where I might use it. I already have the hacksaw (another great tool).
A friend in university barcoded his stuff. Tiny laser gun and an app on his computer (pre-smartphone days) and he had automated checkout/late notices.You think you have a tool problem? I’ve had to create a library card system so I know where stuff is . #2 compressor, 2” nailer are a 1 house , rotary hammer at another, electric chainsaw at a 3rd , Makita track saw at some other house . It’s like Home Depot rental over here , but nobody returns anything or pays for it LOL .
I just got a massive 16” 3 jaw puller and a custom hub flange puller ($200us) back that I could not remember who has it.
Wife wants to know why there are 6 routers in the workshop, well so maybe one is there when I need it . Except all the cutters will be gone ….
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I would actually know what I lent to who, and what I have from who.A friend in university barcoded his stuff. Tiny laser gun and an app on his computer (pre-smartphone days) and he had automated checkout/late notices.
probably simpler now to text people. Send me a "You can pick up shingle gun and air compressor tomorrow". No need to create/maintain database. When you go to use missing air compressor, search your texts and you know who to yell at.I would actually know what I lent to who, and what I have from who.
Right now it’s a wild guess and hunt through the garage and house.
Smart friend.