Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 346 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

My problem is organizational fails where I cannot find the tool in the house so I just go and buy a new one as I just want to get the job done. As an example, I have four jigsaws for this very reason.

Usually in a box somewhere in the basement. Last time I used it I put everything in a Rubbermaid and quickly moved it inside, never actually putting it away in the correct place.
 
GreyGhost said:
It can be a poverty chainsaw for branch cleanup. Often sawzall type tools and small branches give you more vibration than cutting. Bandsaw pulls the branch against the stop and makes quick work of it. This assumes branch is small enough to fit in the throat. If it's not, a sawzall will work well anyway.

With a little effort, you can build a base to use it as a conventional bandsaw with a table (you can buy them but the base will cost you a lot more than $77).

Even for pvc jobs (pool piping or ent), it fills a role that can be done by others but at an order of magnitude improvement in speed over most other options (and you get a clean cut). For these jobs, a miter saw can also work if you have one available and have room near the work area but I often don't bother dragging it out for a few cuts. Bandsaw is easier to move.

If I had rigid batteries (which I don't), I would pick one up as it can easily save a ton of time in a single job. Needing to invest in batteries as well rules it out for me unless the job was in progress and going slowly.
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I had to cut some 16 gauge steel and used my wood cutting band saw at wood cutting speeds. It was a one off project and it worked. I just kept a low feed rate.

I had some bimetal blades around and spliced them together to get the right length so there was no cash outlay. I probably cut 25 to 30 feet before I noticed any decrease in performance. The battery band saws wouldn't work because of the throat limitations. To do it right would have meant a 10:1 speed reduction which would not be cost effective.

A friend has a "Loaner" chalkboard in his shop. What, who, when.
 
nobbie48 said:
I have a Stihl concrete saw and it's always been a pig to start but works well once it's going, even with a dirty filter.

I sent Stihl a nasty note suggesting since I spent so much time pulling the recoil I could do just as well if they skipped putting in a motor and attached the recoil to the blade.

I don't know if this is only for my saw but the fuel cap has a hollow that holds the correct amount of oil for a tank of gas. It helps if you run out of mix and have to eyeball the ratio in the field, borrowing straight gas from where you can.
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Everything we have from STIHL has been top notch. Never a start issue, and no reach issues to speak of.
 
The roof man cometh, I hope.

Following last year's experience with a high baller I've had three quotes for replacing the shingles, all about a third of what I got last summer in pricing. The guy last year must have been quoting gold plated nails hand crafted by an elf in a Bavarian Forest.

There are a couple of decisions yet to be made, primarily with shingles. The last quote was the best and he was the only one I could find a WSIB clearance listed so I want to go with him. The lack of WSIB clearances makes me wonder about the risks for the homeowner.

As much as people complain about WSIB they protect the property owner. In the event of an injury, right after seeing to the medical needs, the WSIB steps in and compensates the worker, fairly or not. They address the cost and hit the employer with a rate increase, fairly or not. The home owner is out of the picture. Without WSIB the home owner can be sued.

Onto the shingles. Everything seems to be architectural shingle now, the eratic pattern of slate or wood shingles. Our present roof is three tab and we prefer the clean lines.

The second problem is the manufacturer. It seems that every roofer has a preferred brand and everything else is junk. I don't want to have to repeat this job in three years because the clouds sneezed. An extra $10 a bundle doesn't bother me and I don't care what the fashionistas think about three tab. Retro is fine.

Tomorrow we shop for shingles. Is there an objective source of information for reliability?

Is there an inherant mechanical advantage to architectural shingles?
 
nobbie48 said:
The roof man cometh, I hope.

Following last year's experience with a high baller I've had three quotes for replacing the shingles, all about a third of what I got last summer in pricing. The guy last year must have been quoting gold plated nails hand crafted by an elf in a Bavarian Forest.

There are a couple of decisions yet to be made, primarily with shingles. The last quote was the best and he was the only one I could find a WSIB clearance listed so I want to go with him. The lack of WSIB clearances makes me wonder about the risks for the homeowner.

As much as people complain about WSIB they protect the property owner. In the event of an injury, right after seeing to the medical needs, the WSIB steps in and compensates the worker, fairly or not. They address the cost and hit the employer with a rate increase, fairly or not. The home owner is out of the picture. Without WSIB the home owner can be sued.

Onto the shingles. Everything seems to be architectural shingle now, the eratic pattern of slate or wood shingles. Our present roof is three tab and we prefer the clean lines.

The second problem is the manufacturer. It seems that every roofer has a preferred brand and everything else is junk. I don't want to have to repeat this job in three years because the clouds sneezed. An extra $10 a bundle doesn't bother me and I don't care what the fashionistas think about three tab. Retro is fine.

Tomorrow we shop for shingles. Is there an objective source of information for reliability?

Is there an inherant mechanical advantage to architectural shingles?
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Architectural shingles are heavier per square. More weight gives more surface that can erode/degrade before water begins to penetrate. Also two layers through the nailing zone provides better hold. Shingle function and longevity depends far more on installer. Many don't bother hitting the strip or cheap out and use four nails per shingle (minimum allowed) when six provides better everything but costs a few dollars more for nails.

I did a lot of research and read the warranties. Most of the warranties aren't worth the paper they are written on (they'll cover material but not labour and very few cover labour and tipping for stripping off defective shingles).

Three-tab shingles seem to be quickly getting worse. They seem to be aimed at getting new home builders past the warranty period and many start to look rough after less than decade. That sucks.

Fwiw, I went with certainteed landmark pro (~235 lb/sq). 3 tab is about 220 lb/sq. I was close to going with BP. I could have had a pretty solid 50 year warranty. Too bad they look like crap after less than a decade.
 
GreyGhost said:
Architectural shingles are heavier per square. More weight gives more surface that can erode/degrade before water begins to penetrate. Also two layers through the nailing zone provides better hold. Shingle function and longevity depends far more on installer. Many don't bother hitting the strip or cheap out and use four nails per shingle (minimum allowed) when six provides better everything but costs a few dollars more for nails.

I did a lot of research and read the warranties. Most of the warranties aren't worth the paper they are written on (they'll cover material but not labour and very few cover labour and tipping for stripping off defective shingles).

Three-tab shingles seem to be quickly getting worse. They seem to be aimed at getting new home builders past the warranty period and many start to look rough after less than decade. That sucks.

Fwiw, I went with certainteed landmark pro (~235 lb/sq). 3 tab is about 220 lb/sq. I was close to going with BP. I could have had a pretty solid 50 year warranty. Too bad they look like crap after less than a decade.
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I recall one warrantee that only covered material AND the replacement work had to be done by the original installer who could charge whatever they wanted. That could easily become one hand washing the other.

I had the feeling that three tab were being squeezed out and only kept on as a entry level product.

The guy on the short list is basing his price on BP Mystic 42, a lighter duty product 15-20 years. I'm a pessimist so say 10-15. There was a class action lawsuit against BP and it has been settled.
 
I went with GAF shingles last year.
If you want another quote I can give you the number to the guys I used


They did about half the houses on my street last year and pricing was very good

Edit

GAF is better than BP and I liked the look of them more

It was a $500 upcharge on the entire roof.

I can look into the paperwork for warranty provided .
 
Id love a metal roof, but $$$$$.

And I think doing the roof is something I would not do on my own. Have done the cottage with dad, but that was smaller, lower height, and not surrounded by hard concrete if you fell.
 
mimico_polak said:
Id love a metal roof, but $$$$$.

And I think doing the roof is something I would not do on my own. Have done the cottage with dad, but that was smaller, lower height, and not surrounded by hard concrete if you fell.
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Be really careful with metal roof sales people. They are way out in front of reality with their promises. Many of the metal roofs sold have exposed fasteners with a compliant gasket. Read the fine print and the fasteners are supposed to be replaced every 10 years or so. Most people expect to have 50 years maintenance free like they were sold. I have never seen the fasteners replaced on a roof (and it would be an absolute shite job as you need to walk around on a metal roof without marking it up).
 
For what it is worth we went with CertainTeed Landmark in 2018. they still look new. Roofing quotes were all over the place (low under 5K, high over 20K) and many on the high side had a postal code premium. 2018 also had some bad storms so the roofers were all fat that year and it also reflected prices... We had a quote from HD which was just a independent roofer, the HD quote had a "lifetime guarantee" but the quote was basically double so IMO you get one roof they charge you for two to cover the future warranty... At the time I calculated material costs down to the nail.... it was around $2400 from memory...

Old shingles were black, we switched to "Granite Grey" and there is a big difference on inside temp in the 1/2 story at the top of the house in summer.
 
GreyGhost said:
Be really careful with metal roof sales people. They are way out in front of reality with their promises. Many of the metal roofs sold have exposed fasteners with a compliant gasket. Read the fine print and the fasteners are supposed to be replaced every 10 years or so. Most people expect to have 50 years maintenance free like they were sold. I have never seen the fasteners replaced on a roof (and it would be an absolute shite job as you need to walk around on a metal roof without marking it up).
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Snow and ice can accumulate and when the pack breaks loose you get an avalanche. I've seen people put in heating cables to stop the slide but it doesn't work. The ice pack bulldozes the cables off the roof. Also the cables have to be attached with dozens of screws into a similar number of holes, all dabbed with a bit of silicone

Bird beaks can work if you put in enough (More holes) and some roofs aren't designed to hold screws.

I'm not sure if the "Falling Ice" signs come with the metal roofs or if you have to buy them separately.

Queen's Park has heated ice fences on the roof and they had to be hidden. I had to fix one and the scaffolding cost was over $10 K. Then there were the three or four trades required to remove and replace copper cladding etc.

What is the point of a fifty year roof for the average person. Young people move up and empty nesters move down. My M-I-L got conned into a 50 year roof when she was around 90 years old. I don't know if she liked the sound.
 
nobbie48 said:
Snow and ice can accumulate and when the pack breaks loose you get an avalanche. I've seen people put in heating cables to stop the slide but it doesn't work. The ice pack bulldozes the cables off the roof. Also the cables have to be attached with dozens of screws into a similar number of holes, all dabbed with a bit of silicone

Bird beaks can work if you put in enough (More holes) and some roofs aren't designed to hold screws.

I'm not sure if the "Falling Ice" signs come with the metal roofs or if you have to buy them separately.

Queen's Park has heated ice fences on the roof and they had to be hidden. I had to fix one and the scaffolding cost was over $10 K. Then there were the three or four trades required to remove and replace copper cladding etc.

What is the point of a fifty year roof for the average person. Young people move up and empty nesters move down. My M-I-L got conned into a 50 year roof when she was around 90 years old. I don't know if she liked the sound.
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A lady I know put a metal roof on her cottage. Financed over 20 years. She died five years in. Every winter an ice avalanche rips off the frogs/fences and they get more added for the next year. Some years it rips the railing off the deck. Kid inherited the cottage (and the lien). They are getting close to buying out the metal roof and shingling that slope as the thousands in repairs every spring is getting tiresome.
 
nobbie48 said:
What is the point of a fifty year roof for the average person. Young people move up and empty nesters move down. My M-I-L got conned into a 50 year roof when she was around 90 years old. I don't know if she liked the sound.
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I've seen a bunch of subdivisions in my travels with Marley roofs that all look original 40yrs later. Builders that did it are probably all out of business but I am impressed at how strong they made those rafters/trusses to hold the weight of the tiles as well as snow and not collapse the whole structure.
 
Anybody use one of these as a work table? Saw it at COSTCO today and didn’t buy as I’m not sure how stable it is.

IMG_5549.jpeg

Dad has this and it’s fairly good and stable. But he’s taking it when we finish up. 2 stands, 2 2x4s, and a 4x8 sheet of plywood.

IMG_5546.jpeg
 
I have seen videos of the centipede and it was quite sturdy once you threw a sheet of plywood on it. Mind you, some were marketing videos.
 
mimico_polak said:
Anybody use one of these as a work table? Saw it at COSTCO today and didn’t buy as I’m not sure how stable it is.

View attachment 60672

Dad has this and it’s fairly good and stable. But he’s taking it when we finish up. 2 stands, 2 2x4s, and a 4x8 sheet of plywood.

View attachment 60673
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What's it for? I made a 4x8 cut table that drops over sawhorses. Disassembles to a few sticks and doesnt mind being hit with a saw. If you through a sheet of plywood over it it would made an ok table (not enough weight for a workbenches but minimal flex). I have a 2x4 workbench/2 step but it is heavy and awkward and doesnt get used often.
 
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